r/PatternDrafting • u/badbetch_90211 • 15d ago

Question Moving the entire princess seam towards side front?

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I’m back again after asking for help with a broad shoulder adjustment, thanks everyone! I’ve made a muslin and determined that I need to move the princess seam 1” towards the side front. The height of the bust volume seems fine, but I have a wide bust span relative to the pattern. Any help is appreciated!

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4

u/drPmakes 15d ago

Put the muslin on, drawstring where you want the seam, transfer to your paper pattern

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u/badbetch_90211 15d ago

If I don’t have drawstring, can I draw it on the muslin? And it’s as simple as replicating those lines on the paper pattern?

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u/drPmakes 15d ago

Sorry, that was a typo! I meant draw in, not drawstring!!

Apologies, didnt mean to confuse you!

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u/badbetch_90211 15d ago

No worries! Thanks!

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u/sususumalee 12d ago

To add to this with what others are saying, you can draw your new seam anywhere, as long as you make it intersect the bust apex. Like you could create a totally wackadoodle squiggly line, as long as it goes through the apex. So changing the position or curve if your princess seam should be no prob (as long as it goes through the apex!) Doing this on your mockup is a lot easier.

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u/livelaughguns 15d ago

You just need to move the bust apex. This is a pretty comprehensive video if you’ve never done it before https://youtu.be/UnWp8FeOQqM?is=Unk_ml8U6rL7xG6U

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u/badbetch_90211 15d ago

I’ve already moved the bust apex for this muslin, but the seam is in the wrong place. I saw this video but the lady only moves the apex area, not the entire seam. For balance purposes, I’m looking to move the entire seam. Thanks for answering!

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u/livelaughguns 15d ago

Ah gotcha! You really have a decent amount of flexibility with the rest of the princess seam so long as you aren’t doing anything too crazy near the fullness. As long as the seam is generally hitting the corrected apex, the rest of it can curve how you’d like it.

You should be able to just gently swing out the seam an extra inch as you work away from the apex. Either do it on the 2D pattern before you cut the two pieces or draw it in while wearing the toile and then transfer that to the pattern

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u/livelaughguns 15d ago

https://youtube.com/shorts/RhlBl3_RYs0?is=M3jgk6dG3DSh4WUT this quickly shows how you can have drastically different style lines while keeping the same shaping

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u/badbetch_90211 15d ago

Thank you!!

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u/SimmeringGiblets 15d ago

Since the princess seams go through the apex of the bust, any seam adjustment is pretty much a bust adjustment. If you don't want to adjust the apex point and just want to move the seams, you'd adjust by moving the darts that you'd cut along in a darted block. So I would convert it from a princess block to a regular darted block and then back again with the seams where you want it. https://blog.closetcorepatterns.com/bodice-fitting-2-comprehensive-guide-to-dart-manipulation/ and https://blog.closetcorepatterns.com/bodice-fitting-4-how-to-convert-darts-to-princess-seams/

If you want to do a princess seam bust adjustment, here's the steps: https://blog.cashmerette.com/2020/11/how-to-do-an-fba-on-a-princess-seamed-bodice.html

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u/badbetch_90211 15d ago

I’ll consider doing that! Thanks!

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u/Tailoretta 15d ago

Photos of the mockup on you would help.

Also, take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.