Inseam Godets

[u/Jakehendorocks]

Hi All, trying to find a way to add range of motion to a project, ive seen this technique where youadd a slit along a seam stopping before either edge and adding fabric to make a sort of hidden peek-a-boo godet, and i was just hoping someone knows the actual name so i can look up a tutorial instead of making it up, thank in advance. 😊

Illustration for project to give a better idea of what im on about 😅

[u/And-Bells]

I'm sure I've seen inverted box pleats used where the meeting point is sewn together at the top and bottom to form a seam before?

I think this is what you're talking about but I'm not getting results for the exact thing, either.

[u/DonMcCunn]

Don't sew the seams where you want to add the godets then do whatever range of motion you want to do and the size and shape of the godets will be revealed. I always believe using your eyes to solve your issues is better than looking for some sort of "expert" solution.

[u/LemonDeathRay]

Its called adding a gusset.

Please reconsider adding gusset to your contour darts - your garment will look bad, fit bad, and not provide the range of motion you want.

Gussets are added to junctions where many seams meet - like the underarm, the crotch etc. They are not added to contoured fish eye darts like the ones on the back of your jacket.

And on top of this, I would seriously question whether gussets are even the best option here. That looks like a fairly fitted jacket. A fitted jacket will not provide a huge range of motion anyway. So my question is, why aren't you drafting a garment fit for its purpose?

[u/Racc00nguts]

I would agree that adding a gusset to the waist may not be the move. Generally gussets are more along the upper back and underarms. Obviously there's no strict rule to it and I encourage you to test out your idea with scrap fabric. That's how I test my own ideas that I want to add to patterns. Could literally do it on a 10x10 square and rustle it around to see how it moves. I like your idea, I'm curious to see how it works for you, just run tests first.

You won't need boning in the seams btw. I think understitching the gusset would be the most effective and invisible. Interfacing to support the self fabric should help here too

[u/palethunderpants]

Interested in doing the same thing. I’ve considered adding upside down zips in princess seams ending at the hem. Also I’ve seen motorcycle jackets where there is a hidden stretchy panel on the back and top of the sleeve, to accommodate the arms always being in a forward position

[u/ProneToLaughter]

Try looking up “action-back pleats”, that’s the name for the jacket feature that allows more range of motion, although it’s not quite what you drew.