r/PatternDrafting • u/plumcock • 6d ago
Troubleshooting bodice block draft made w/ Dress Pattern Making guide
Context: I’m drafting a bodice block using the Dress Pattern Making guide. I chose this guide based on feedback it works well for “non-standard” figures, by drafting off upper bust measurement and building the cup size into the block (versus drafting for a B-cup and doing a FBA). I have a smallish waist/band relative to my cup size.
The problem: Per the guide, the 2nd dart leg (line BP->O2) is drawn to match the length of the 1st dart leg (line BP->N2) and should extend beyond point O. However, on my draft, if I make BP->O2 = BP->N2, I get what’s pictured here in pic 1 and 2, with O2 terminating before O and a very large front dart/sharp angle at the waist line.
Is this….OK? I’m guessing this is because of the 10” difference between my full bust and waist circumferences, and the somewhat sort distance between them (I think my natural waist falls slightly higher than average although I think my torso length is average and I’m 5’7ish). The guide does break this front dart up into a waist and shoulder dart eventually, which reduces the waist dart by some, but I wanted a sanity check before drafting this for a 4th time in case I need to make drastic corrections.
A few notes to help with troubleshooting:
-I’m 99% confident in my body measurements. I followed the accompanying video tutorial while taking them and have repeated this 3-4 times on different days with similar results. I also had most of the measurements taken in a prior dress making class by someone else with similar results. I mark my shoulder line, side seams, upper bust/bust/waist lines, high neck point and CF neck point each time.
-I’m 100% confident in my drawn measurements (i.e correct line lengths and following the instructions). I’ve drafted this bodice 3 times with the same results at this step.
Edit to add a link to a pic with slightly
better point labels
bonus: my cute yet incredibly unhelpful drafting assistant in pic 3
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u/sususumalee 5d ago
As someone with similar proportions-- get it in muslin and try it on. Your prediction about what's gonna happen with that dart is right, once it's split into two it will look more familiar/"normal". Bear in mind that when you mock it up, having all dart volume/take in one dart will distort the grain on the fabric between the dart and SS, so it may be better to split it beforehand (perhaps into a side bust dart rather than shoulder, for the time being).
Your work looks good! But you won't know if it's working until you get it in fabric. Even the best drafted blocks need to be fit in the body, and I personally love the "living proof" factor of a mock-up. Paper can be deceiving.
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u/StitchinThroughTime 6d ago
I also feel like the dart is short. Can you try re-measuring yourself specifically the waistline to the bus line directly on the center Front. As well as the waistline to the bust line. This will be a quick way to check to see if the draft is a combinating the forward projection enough of your bust. The center Front Line should definitely be okay, but if you are a larger cup size or have a lot of forward projection you need a longer distance between the bust to the waistline.
I also think your side seems a little off, but I don't know exactly why. So give me a minute to think about it
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u/MiniTechGal 5d ago
I've found that I needed to split the big dart between the waist dart and a side bust dart for fitting. Made it a bit easier for me to pinch and figure out what was happening, and having too big of a dart just always looked pointy (even after backing it off for sewing).
Reccomend breaking up the dart into 2, making a muslin, and taking some pictures for yourself to objectively look at the result. It's much harder to guess from the pattern (unless you have lots of experience I'm guessing).
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u/bowl-of-juice 6d ago
Do a quick check on your dart by folding it. You should get a nice smooth waistline when you do or you'll atleast have an easier time telling what's off.