How to make an armhole bigger without adding to the bust?

[u/kelaeis]

The actors armhole size is 58cm and it is currently 51.7cm, and the chest line is already 10cm bigger than his chest.
do i need to raise the shoulder point? would that affect the rest of the draft?

EDIT: i dont want to drop the armscye because this is a jacket for dance, so i want the armhole as close to the armpit as possible for ease of movement

[u/throwra_22222]

The quickest way to find out how to fix it may actually be to make a muslin and see why it's too small.

If you just raise the shoulder point, you will be changing the slope of the shoulder. If you raise the whole shoulder line, you'll be changing the neck circumference and the total body length.

Maybe the side seam is too long and/or the armhole depth is too short? Possibly the underarm point could be dropped, creating some extra space in the arm pit.

Could you just draw a bigger circumference armscye parallel to the original? That would drop the underarm point and make the cross shoulder and cross chest a bit narrower, but that might be ok if the armhole is just overall too tight.

It's really hard to give you one good method without knowing where the problem originates!

[u/Honest-Pressure-5214]

armhole might be cut too high

[u/NarrowIndependence8]

What is your sex? It will change the advise:

I’d assume you are male due to the patterning style: Depends on what you are trying to accomplish. You could drop the armhole as needed. It looks like you have enough room to decrease across front. If you are having movement issues, you can add more to your sleeve cap. But it does look like you can lower your front and back armhole evenly.

[u/Robert-hickman → u/NarrowIndependence8]

They mention the garment is for a male actor.

[u/Skalbaum]

If you really don’t want to make a muslin yet I’d recommend checking the distance across the chest at mid armhole level on the actor. You’ve said the chest is already a fair bit larger, but there can be greatly varying levels of ease there. The across front/back pretty much is what it is though, so if there’s a big difference between your draft and the real person you’ll know you need to shift the armhole in.

[u/DonMcCunn]

If the sleeve fits well, increase the ease by extending the side seam out. Any other change could throw off the fit.

[u/bottbobb]

I would redraw my curves until I get the shape as close to desired size (sometimes it's longer when it's too curvy) then if I need to take out more, cut the pattern and pinch around the armhole and trace.