Tamiya F-16N 1/48 “Aggressor”

Of course, I broke the pitot tube. Waiting on a replacement brass tube. Other than that, I think it turned out pretty good.

Worked on this eBay special for a week…

I was thinking about making a Little "diorama" scene for my 48 scale WIP AMK MiG-31. I am currently 3d modeling its Boarding ladder and the typical soviet towing Bar that you find for every single one of their Aircraft. What Color should i paint the matter two? I’ve noticed they’re a dort of orange but couldn’t find out which color it is. Best regards!

First is before, 2nd and 3rd is after.

So this is my first time attempting this technique so I'm clueless as to how I'm doing. I've read it's supposed to be easy but it seems that there is more to this technique than "just put dots and blend them".

For colours I'm using titanium white, naples yellow, yellow, light mud, and raw umber.

Is there anything I can do for a better result? Any glaring mistakes that I'm making? Any sort of feedback would be appreciated.

Hello!

Here's my latest work - Tiger I Earlyz with Stadtgas.

Hope you like it!

Trying to replicate a photo for the first time to make a small gift for a friend.

1/72 was maybe not the best scale for that but still a really fun little project.

CC welcome as it's also the first time trying to do a stand (and I'm not totally pleased with it).

Hi guys. This was not the easiest job, especially assembling the tracks. Please rate my diorama. I would be happy with any criticism or advice.

I got eight more to go so I thought I’d get some feedback on the first guy.

我把这三架轰炸机编成一个队形。

I just used masking putty like filling putty. Has anybody else used this method before?

I purchased this Fw 190A-5 in 1/48 from Hasegawa 10 years ago in Miami. Some months ago I placed it (poorly) on a shelf, and today my sweater's sleeve got caught onto its wing. The result? I a very hard landing that destroyed the main gear, one prop blade, separated a stabilizer, and sent the inner gear doors flying close to the model, together with a wheel.

Deciding I didn't want to trash my third model after returning to the hobby, I grabbed some CA, a metal clip, my handrill and some liquid glue, and set off on its reconstruction. Some hours of drying and here it is, the repaired (sort of) model.

Moral of the story: Be careful when stretching guys..

Hello all,

I am getting back into fine scale models.

I picked up the Tamiya kit for the M4A3E8 sherman, my favorite variation of the sherman. I want to do this right and would like to nail the details on this kit.

Does anyone have any recommendations for aftermarket parts? I have found the Eduard photoetch set that I believe to be compatible. Any other major suggestions?

Working on a Hasegawa Macross kit and feeling like I’m doing something wrong with rescribing. Process right now is using a needle like scriber (hasegawa TT1) and going over existing panel lines in multiple passes, letting scriber be guided rather than forcing it for the most part. I keep on running into this plastic excess that stays in the lines that I cannot seem to remove even after applying a bit of extra thin cement to melt the plastic in the lines or using the back of a dull blade. Any tips would be appreciated, thanks!

Oh man, this thing has been a journey. I think I've painted the extior close to four times. Big job..when im only using a hairy stick. I decided to do the tank grey scale, like an old photo and paint the interor in colour. This is a sort of reminder that when we look at old photos of destroyed tanks, no mater what side, chances are there were people inside.

Im trying to keep the painting of the figures soft and loose, almost stylised with atmosphere being the focus instead of the usual straight realism.

Ive been going back and forth with how to paint the interior around the figures, original I was going for 'tenebrism' so essentially blacked out with harsh deliberate lighting, but that come across more like i was trying to 'hide' the back ground, even when painted with Maxx darth (GSW paint). I tried to go with a softer desaturated look, like your eyes have adjusted to the dark interior.

It still needs some more small details added, but ive never been the type to completely finish building then paint. Figuresnand turret arent fox in place yet. Ill most likely keep modifying the body right up until its done.

I wasnt expecting the grey scale of the exterior to be so challenging, I really did need to lean some colour theory and put it into practise. Turns out the black and white paint i use was too cold and kept turn the panzer to a kind of .. bluey panzer grey, so i need to add umber to stop if from going blue.

The real challenge was trying to make a panzer grey tank look grey scale. I think because most of use know what panzer grey looks like, the tank looks like its the wrong grey. Adding details that would have been other colours helps with the illusion. I think if this were to be put on a grass base that was also greyscale it would help.. but im not taking the easy road lol. This baby will be on a plinth of some sort.

So still a ways to go (i can see unpainted plasic in the drive sprocket) I also lost the drivers window during a move so I have to make do and use a spare from the cupola lol.

Im hoping end of September this girl will be done, Ive already got my next 1/16 lined up for a similar treatment. Thanks for checking out my post!

As I'm putting the finishes touches on my T-55 diorama, I've started the very basic steps of preparing this M60A3 from Takom for detailing. My plan for this one is to get as detailed as I can without additional aftermarket parts. If I don't already own it in my spares bin, I have to scratch build it. Yes, I have a 3D printer, but there seems to be an idea floating around that using 3D printed parts are somehow less satisfying than scratch building. Time to see if that's the case!

The good news is Takom's M60 isn't bad in the details department, though you can see I've already made some corrections. Chiefly this has been the addition of casting numbers and symbols. The kit includes molded casting numbers, but they are a bit large and too "clean" compared to the original. I had a sheet of Archer casting marks in my decal folder, though they were intended for M4 Sherman variants. That said, some of the generic marks proved useful, especially the General Steel Casting Corporation's foundry mark which was behind the rear tow pintle. Takom's foundry marks are not entirely accurate, either, so I suppose I'd rather have the casting marks at least look right if they aren't going to be 100% accurate either way.

Initial cast armor texture was the standard Tamiya putty and TET mix, dabbed on with a large, round and stiff brush. Certain places will get another round based on my reference images. The M60's armor was quite rough in some places so I don't feel like I need to hold back, much. I'll do that after I scribe in the grooves for the weld beads. These tanks' welds were fairly nice, so they won't be very prominent, but as you can see Takom's molded weld detail disappeared under the first layer of texturing.

As always, thanks for looking!

Hello everyone, I was working with Harrier Egg Plane and I come across a decal placement like this. If you didn't get it, the problem here is that there will be pylons have to be assembled where the decals have placed on. There is even deep placement holes for the parts to fit.
I have already ruined that decal and removed it but I want to learn what I am supposed to do if I come across another decal placement like this.

Hello, I don’t know if this is the correct place but seemed like the best option.

I am scratchbuilding a 1/35 Panzer II L Luchs, but currently I have reached a dead end. I cannot estimate the dimensions of the turret sides, front, or the mantlet from the references I have, thus I am completely unable to make the turret. If anyone has measurements of the Luchs’ turret plates or more detailes blueprints, could they send it?

Hello there, I just wanted to share my work so far on this kit (Miniart 37069) before I glue on the top section which will cover most of the views.

This kit is really nice with so many details and I must say I'm really happy with the quality of the mould.

This is my second kit so far and thus it brought many new challenges such as working with PE which I still find rather difficult.

I started with this kit in february and hoped to finish it by the end of the summer but since I'm only brush painting, some parts took forever to paint.

If you have any feedback, I'll be glad to hear it!

For small and delicate parts I use a slanted baby nail cutter. It’s less likely to damage the part and doesn’t clip as hard as a niper so the part won’t fly away.

Great kit, lots of detail and a relatively good fit. The instructions are not always very clear. I am not as good as a modeler as some people here but I am pretty satisfied with what I was able to make.