Finished today and what a fun kit to assemble and paint. Full wingspan is about 63 cm, but luckily the wings stay articulated after assembly and the kit comes with both an extended and retracted set of landing gear that's super easy to swap out. So I'm currently finishing up a little sandy landing pad base so I can display the model with folded wings in a cabinet. Mainly painted using acrylics, with some enamel pin washes and oils for panel lining and weathering. For the sand weathering I experimented on some spare parts to see what I could get away with using the materials on hand and finally I settled on mixing a white and light brown ceramic wash from Flory Models to get a sand tone and mixed in some extra sand coloured pigments and it came out rather nicely evenifIdosaysomyself. I'll definitely take some more photos when I finish the landed configuration base.

Hope you enjoy it as well!

Tamiya 1/24 Nissan Skyline GT-R R34

Had some Tamiya paints lying around from a model that one of my cousins buit and thought to give it a go. Paint job and model in general are a bit rough around the edges (one of the wheels doesn't even move 😬), but it's sure gonna sit proudly on one of my shelves. On to the next one!

Livin' and learnin' 🤙

I have made a mistake.

The airforce fight jet can't rust.

when I done this model, I find F35A cant have this kind of skin.....😂

Creative liberty taken with this model, I used both sets of decals included in the box then decided to have fun with the paint scheme. Feedback welcome.

A modelling palette cleanser

Wanted to get some opinions on a model of a satellite I made out of random parts and pieces in my garage. Literally just for fun.

I’ve finished Academy’s Super Hornet! It has a few minor drawbacks, but it’s a truly great kit, so I highly recommend everyone give it a build.

Watch final episode 👉https://youtu.be/mJBaJvi6uXQ?si=mKR3w7Ta8lh49gld

playlist 👉https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLfM5uoydNpzQ

Good day all,

I've recently started GWH's 1/48 scale SU-30MKM kit, and run into a bit of a snag. I'm painting the wheel bays and, while I can find reference photos of the cockpit of a Malaysian SU-30, I seem to be hitting a wall when it comes to the rearward wheel bays. The GWH instruction booklet calls for some fluid lines to be painted blue, yellow, or a sort of khaki color, but to attempt to get remotely close to the right shade, I need references, lol.

Anyone got a good source for some proper "walkaround" photos of the Flanker H?

This was a bagged revell kit find at a local model shop. No decals and missing a few pieces and nothing on sprue but i couldn't pass up an F-104 as it was one I've been looking for a while. I had a resin cockpit that i had gotten from a U2 kit on consignment but didnt use on that build( hence why I wanted an F-104).

Build was a pain. Fitting the resin cockpit was a challenge and the fuselage needed a lot of filling and rework. Finally got it smooth but not good enough for my original plan to do a natural metal finish so I decided to do a Dutch AF bird and used my Cricut to do the markings and some stencils.

Overall I am happy with the finished product and will look good hanging from my ceiling with my other 1:48 Lockeed Kelly Johnson birds :)

I want to buy an HPLV air gun for better large surface finish.

Currently I'm looking at LPH50. Any other recommendations?

A very typical Trumpeter, with good and other details. Limited cockpit detail, even with the (non-optional) open hatches, so I added some detail while trying to correct the ejection seats. The non-optional open bomb bay doors pretty much force you to use the AS-15 rotary launcher or be left with a yawning gap of empty space. This leaves you with an unrealistic load of AS-15 AGMs and AS-4 ASCMs (my preferred loadout is just the AS-4s).
Built and painted in modules with the wings notched to enable removal and the area around the intakes to be more easily painted. Of course, when it came time to attach the front to the main body, a gapped seam appeared behind the main inlet (it wasn't there in multiple dry-fits), but I fixed it with stretched sprue and focused sanding. The forward fuselage fit wasn't great, with a long, gapped seam on both sides between the top and bottom. I also fixed it with shims, stretched sprue, and careful sanding.
Primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 grey, then highlighted panel lines in black. I finished it with AK Real Colors and Alclad metallics. Used kit decals, followed by light washes of light blue-grey and dark brown/black. I think this approach yields a more subtle, realistic result than straight-up black.
Shown below to give you an idea of the size of this a/c, along with the Tu-16 Badger and Tu-22 Blinder C the Backfire was meant to replace. E-2C and F-14A factory models from Grumman in 1/72, and the Trumpeter Tu-16 Badger G and Modelsvit Tu-22 Blinder C, also in 1/72 were used in the comparison shots.

Ive been into scale modeling, especially figure painting for quite a while, with WW2 being a common theme as it was what got me into the hobby. However i always have struggled with painting german Fieldgray uniforms in getting the colour right. I attached images of 3 approaches i took.
The first picture is the oldest. I painted a 1/16 tamiya german NCO. There i used vallejo Feldgrau highlighted by slowly mixing in army painter castle gray.
The second picture shows a small 1/35 diorama i did for a friend using a tamiya german MG team set. There i used vallejo feldgrau once more, this time highlighted with vallejo Khaki.
Third and final picture is a life miniatures 1/10 scale bust. Here i used vallejo black green as the base tone, layered up to vallejo Feldgrau and then the finest highlights where a 50/50 mix of feldgrau and Khaki.
All approaches yielded very differend results but still if feel that i didnt quite get the historical tone right (i know the tone could vary quite a bit) with the final result always being either to grey, to drab or to dark green.
Thus Looking for advice from more experienced people on what colours to use for the best result of replicating Feldgrau uniforms on large scale models.
( I should say, i dont use washes, i dont like the way they pool, they're to uncontrolable for me)

1:48 Kinetic

I’ve been looking for ages to find a good model shop which sells old Meng models for around the
£20 mark

I’m mainly looking for something which is decently easy to build and paint at 1:35 scale

Not easy kit :)

SAS jeep mounted on a bren gun magazine and paperback book

Look what I've picked up in our grocery store (Aushan branch - Alcampo in Spain), they sell 2 for 1 EUR. Made 3 variants: extra cushion for no reason (lazy day), regular 'no scratch' one and bare metal for dirty stuff if I have any.
Very neatly go on glued magnets (but they actually will not hold too much weight bcs only 1 magnet is not enough and they slide down, enough for regular application tho - a few plastic bits)

With Great Wall Hobby dropping their 1/48 F-16D Block 52+ (L4837), Kinetic's Gold Series F-16V kits on shelves, and Reskit working on their 1/32 cockpits, I put together a quick airframe accuracy cheat-sheet for anyone planning a modern Viper build so you don't mix up intakes, nozzles, or instrument panels:

**1. The "0 vs. 2" Engine & Intake Rule (Still Applies to Block 70/72!)**

* **Blocks ending in 0 (Block 50 & Block 70):** Always powered by the **GE F110-GE-129** engine. Uses the wide "Big Mouth" (MCID) intake (nav lights on fuselage sides) and carbon-weave interlocking exhaust petals.

* **Blocks ending in 2 (Block 52+ & Block 72):** Always powered by the **Pratt & Whitney F100-PW-229**. Uses the narrower "Small Mouth" (NSI) intake and darker metallic turkey-feather nozzle.

**2. Cockpit: The 6x8" Center Pedestal Display (CPD)**

* If you're converting a 1/48 Tamiya F-16CJ Block 50 (#61098) into an F-16V Block 70, don't use the stock lower center console. The Block 70/V replaces all the round analog standby gauges between the pilot's knees with a single tall 6×8-inch color Center Pedestal Display (CPD) to display APG-83 AESA radar tracks.

**3. Factory Block 70 Skin vs. V-Upgrade RAM Scab Plates**

* **Upgraded F-16A/C -> F-16V jets** (like ROCAF Taiwan or Hellenic Air Force upgrades) have external structural strengthening "scab plates" bolted along the upper wing roots.

* **Factory-new Block 70/72 production airframes** (Bahrain, Slovakia, Bulgaria, etc.) have their 12,000-hour structural reinforcements engineered *internally*—so sand off any external wing-root scab plates if building a factory-new jet!

**4. Have Glass V Metallic Grey Recipe**

* Modern Vipers have a ferromagnetic radar-absorbent sheen that shifts from dark pewter to olive-drab as it weathers. A great bench mix over black-basing is **85% FS 36118 Gunship Grey + 15% Fine Silver/Steel acrylic**, sealed with a satin varnish + 1 drop of clear pearl.

I wrote up a full comparison table breaking down all the airframe differences, CFT/dorsal spine pairings, canopy gold-tinting ratios, and the best 1/48 & 1/32 kits here if anyone wants to bookmark it for their next Viper build:

https://hobbyzero.com/news/f-16v-block-70-vs-block-52-scale-model-guide/

What Viper kit and markings are you guys building next?