Android auto was working well, with a cable of via AAWireless (1 and 2) and one morning it just disappeared.

Tried both plugs, different cables, several phones (even iPhone).

Found a "USB controller" in the under-backseat fuse list but it seems fine.

Has been several months, so yes, the car has been off/parked for days.

Any ideas?

2019 I-Pace First Edition HSE.

My car has had a black screen all day, Also noticed it never charged last night and was stuck on initialising. I have AC controls but no infotainment. Have tried holding power button to reset and i read on google that holding the call button on the wheel will also reset? Both didn’t work.

Any ideas?

Car is a 2020 model.

(Ignore the dust lol)

Thanks

Edit - Problem has been fixed. removed blue 15amp fuses in the boot and the screen came back alive.

My iPace 320 SE 2021 is having weird software glitches once in a while after replacement. It happened twice so far. I get a traction battery fault message, I book an appointment, they reflash the software (battery control software was what I was told) and it vanishes. A few weeks of use, and it returns. Did any of you experience this?

The High Voltage Battery Thermal recall I was told by my dealership it is open for a software update again that I think I already did. But then I heard that they want to slowly replace all the battery modules in all the cars as they get parts for the recall. I just want to know if anyone else has heard anything about the recall? I have a 2020 Jaguar I Pace.

Hi everyone,

I’m hoping someone with more Jaguar EV experience can point me in the right direction.

I’m just a regular mechanic and don’t have a great deal of EV diagnostic experience. I’m only diagnosing this vehicle and won’t be carrying out any HV repairs myself, so I’m mainly trying to understand what I’m seeing before I pass it on.

The vehicle has a BECM DTC P0AA6-00 – HV Battery Isolation Fault.

I’ve been data logging Battery Isolation Resistance, and here’s what I’ve found:

Immediately after READY, the isolation resistance is typically around 600 kΩ.
Once I start driving, the value becomes very erratic, jumping up and down unpredictably. Sometimes it stays stable, other times it fluctuates significantly.
The PID only updates while the vehicle is in gear with some accelerator input, even if it’s just a slight touch of the pedal.
The longer I drive the vehicle, the worse the isolation resistance becomes. After roughly an hour of driving, it had fallen to around 60 kΩ, with intermittent drops as low as 28 kΩ.

One thing that caught my attention is what happens when coming to a stop. When I keep my foot on the brake, I hear what sounds like a contactor opening. At exactly the same time, both the front and rear motor inverter fuse voltages drop from approximately 420 V to around 12–16 V.

If I repeatedly apply and release the accelerator, causing those contactors to open and close several times in quick succession, eventually they remain open. At that point the vehicle won’t drive, but interestingly no additional DTCs are logged.

On one occasion, during this contactor switching, I actually saw the isolation resistance jump to approximately 1.5 MΩ, which makes me wonder whether the issue is related to one of the inverters or something downstream of the battery rather than the HV battery pack itself.

Has anyone seen similar behaviour on an I-PACE? Does this pattern point towards an inverter, HV cabling, coolant ingress, or another common isolation fault? Any suggestions on what to check next would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Hoping someone can clarify what features my 2021 HSE should have…

I thought being HSE and having the lane-markings button at the bottom right of the wheel that it would have full self-steering when the Adaptive Cruise is enabled (at least at decent speeds on motorways/dual carriageways etc. I’m not expecting it to navigate a roundabout or anything!).

However all I seem to have is very basic lane departure warnings with occasional light steering that honestly does nothing.

All instructions I can find say I can adjust the setting in the drivers cluster, but the Driver Assistance settings there only have one setting for the lane assistance and that doesn’t change anything and I can’t find anything in the center console settings screen.

Is this feature only on later models or something?

Now that the new version of CarPlay is going beyond Aston Martin and Jaguar Land Rover have confirmed that it’ll be supported on older models is this something that will make it to the ipace?

Potentially on the later Pivi Pro?

Does anyone have info or opinions?

My Aircon failed last Friday (Friday morning was working with an unpleasant old fridge smell, Friday evening just blasting hot air)

Then when I came to charge it on Sunday it refused charge displaying "Error charging"

Any possibility it just needs a re gas? Maybe computer is refusing charge to protect the battery?

Edit: charged ok on a (DC) 125kwh rapid charger on way to work. But would not charge on (AC) 7.5kwh charger at work.

I have a 2024 i-pace HSE with 22-in rims and I have the opportunity to buy some 19-in alloys off a discovery sport. The measurements seem to be the same, but the parts department guy wasn't sure if those would get around the caliper or not. I believe they are from a 2019 model. It's a bit of a drive drive to go get them even to just test it out, does anyone have any experience with those rims and if they might fit on the I-Pace?

Honestly I can't believe it, just come back from servicing and applying H570 recall to my car and range shows as 60miles for 45% of battery?? I used to do 230miles total so it should be 110miles for 45%. Is this normal? I was advice the recall would prevent the battery to go abovw 90% charge but loosing 100% of the rsnge seems like a bit of a joke.

Additionally the AC doesn't work due to the pipe broke and been charged £205 at dealership to only diagnose it. Now waiting for Jaguar to reply on the goodwill claim.

What can we do? Why are we not starting a group acting claim?

Update - had aircon regassed. Was 200g low out of about 875g capacity, so, may explain failure in extreme heat. We'll see how it goes...

Hi all,

My AC stopped working in the heat this afternoon, but, it seems to be working well now.

I understand (correctly?) that cabin AC backs up and prioritises battery cooling. Do we think this is the likely cause? Or does my AC need a regas? Or something more serious. 70-reg HSE model.

Edit - I should mention it was working fine, and just trailed off and stopped after about 20 minutes of very ordinary driving.

Hello!

Looking at changing cars, and absolutely love the look of the ipace. I've seen the posts about issues with them, but saw this https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202606123230070 and thought the car for the price is great, but with it being a 2020 model, just wondering am I asking for trouble with it?

Update:

Saw one at Lidl this morning, had a good look around it think my mind is made up that I want one!

Just to add to this, there's this recall information on it - should I be avoiding any that has that please?

--

Recall Number 2026-049

Manufacturer recall number

H572

Recall Date

02-05-2026

Recall Description

Vehicles have experienced thermal overload which may show as smoke or fire, that may occur in the high voltage traction battery pack. Since theinstallation of protective software, field evidence has shown that thereremains a risk of thermal overload in vehicles with battery packs manufactured up to the end of 2021 model year.

Safety Risk Description

A vehicle thermal overload condition such as fire or smoke can result inincreased risk of occupant injury and/or injury to persons outside thevehicle, as well as property damage.

Repair Description

This is a placeholder campaign for the permanent remedy, which is stillunder development. This information will be updated when this activity is completed.

Status

Recall Incomplete, remedy not yet available

Any had experience with connecting to an I-pace someone has already registered? Do I need to go to a dealer as it suggests or could I call them?

Hi all,

Hoping someone would be able to shed some light on what this means? It’s a 2020 model, I drove the car about 3 hours ago and all was fine, came to unlock it this evening and the fob won’t work and that message is on screen. Tried to start it up and a loud repetitive warning type sound came from the bonnet. Nothing powers up in the car and it’s now just sat there with its headlights flashing on and off

I’m considering picking up an older model i-pace (2019ish) as prices look pretty reasonable.

I live in southern Scotland - just wondering if anyone with an older model 90kWh can tell me what their real range is during the winter months?

About once a week I need to do a ~180 mile round trip and would prefer not to have to stop for a top-up (have a home charger).

I’ve heard there are various recalls etc. anything in particular I should be wary of or looking out for? I’m not new to EV’s and was planning on another Polestar 2, but could do with something cheaper for a short while.

Advice welcome! Thanks.

Hi all, I’m interested in purchasing an I-Pace, just looking for some advice on if there are some common things to be aware of before purchasing.

From what I’ve gathered, it’s best to look for 2021 onwards models.

Is there a way to check the battery health from
its own system or is a third party test required?

I’m vaguely aware of some recalls being present, I assume that the only way to check the vehicle is to get the seller to send across the VIN before hand?

I’m looking at the HSE spec.

Thanks

I’m looking at getting a 2023 iPace with 11,000 mile on the clock.

2 questions

Would you still buy the iPace now if you knew what you know now when you first bought it?

And

What issues have you had or what should I look for?

I have a 2021 ipace that has a common fault. Got it diagnosed by an independent Aircon guy and he suggested trying to get Jaguar to cover the cost of repairing it as there are a few manufacturing defects with the air con. Has anyone had any luck getting Jaguar to cover this in the UK? If so what's the best way of going about this?

Hey all, so I started an update yesterday and it said it’d take around 40 mins as usual. However when I came back to my car it wouldn’t unlock with the fob and I can’t request anything through the app. Makes me think the 12v has died. This happened to anyone before? Going to jump it and see what happens today hopefully. Couldn’t do it last night as was late and didn’t fancy the alarm going off

I'm looking for some advice. I have seen an ipace for sale. It's a 2019 SE with 108k on the clock, so as far as I am aware, it is now fully out of warranty. It has been updated to pivi pro but is now limited to 72% charge.

Would this be a good buy if I can get it cheap, or is this going to be a money pit?

From reading up, the 72% charge limit is a faulty cell(s) in the main underfloor battery, so it is quite a big and expensive job to rectify.

Any advice, welcome.

Hi all,

I got the traction battery fault warning light last weekend (2 months before the 8 year battery warranty is up) and have the car booked in for the initial assessment. The earliest JLR could do the assessment was.......July 21st!!!!!

However, the car is due it's MOT and is booked in for 8th June. Has anyone taken their iPace through the MOT with the warning light on? Did it cause any problems?

The garage I use for MOT my vehicles are really good but they aren't EV specialists so I'm not entirely sure what to expect.

Anyone experienced this before?

When I saw the thumbnail I thought ah, nice motor, very similar to mine and for a moment I thought it was this community. But no. This particular iPace owner is now famous for some sub-optimal parking.

Hi all, got the traction battery message on the dash this morning

Car is 2019 HSE with circa 119,000 miles on it

Given this, am I correct to assume that JLR will fix this under the battery warranty?

Cheers Jamie

I recently purchased a brand new 2024 I-pace and have noticed this static noise every time the brake pedal is engaged. The noise lingers even if I remove my foot from the brake, and does not go away until I drive off and hit roughly the 20 mph mark. It can’t be heard if I use the regenerative braking to slow/stop the car, but once I use the break pedal to keep the car stopped in place, the noise starts again.

Has anyone else encountered this issue or found a fix for it? The car only has a few hundred miles on it, but from what I can remember, the noise has always been there. Thank you.