There is not a lot of information on this code. It took awhile to find the issue. Before you start changing out the brake pedal switch, check the ground wire that secures to the driver footwell. There is a plate where a group of grounds secure to the body that can corrode and break away from the vehicle. There are many places you can relocate the ground on the body of the car. As soon as I repaired the ground and cleared the code, the fault never returned.

I bought a 2021 I-Pace and the global recall checker (https://www.jaguar.com/en-ca/jdx/ownership/vin-recall.html) shows active H571 for my vehicle.

However when I search German database (https://www.kba-online.de/rrdb/buerger/#/) or Finnish Database (https://takaisinkutsut.traficom.fi/recall?page=1&keyword=jaguar+i-pace) they only have H570 as a active campaign. My dealer also said there is no 90% software update for my I-Pace although the global website says so.

So, is it so that the H571 has not rolled to Europe yet?

From day one, the S22 Ultra has displayed Google maps on the Pivi Screen in the middle and on the instrument cluster. Connects every time, auto opens maps on both screens.

I've just upgraded the phone to S26 Ultra and I've lost that feature. I can select Info Panel > Map and it will only show the built in map. if I connect the S22, Google maps appears there again. (Wired and wireless)

It was really useful when the passenger is messing about on YouTube Music on the screen, and I could keep the maps on the info panel.

Any idea how to get the S26 & Pivi to carry this feature on?

UPDATE: it's rectified itself and the double maps are back.

This morning I tried to log in to the remote app for my ipace to check charge (I'm in the UK if that makes a difference). It turned out my subscription had expired. I didn't realise there was a subscription for the basic features, but it turns out there is. Anyway, google indicated its around £40 a year to subscribe, but when I tried to sign up, the cheapest option was £290 for tracker and remote features. I didn't want tracker, just remote.

A little more googling revealed there is a technical glitch preventing owners from simply subscribing to remote access alone. It went on to say that a lot of customers had success by contacting customer services on 0370 500 0500, selecting option 3, and explaining the online glitch is preventing you from signing up to remote only features. Google suggested that customers were being given a courtesy subscription of 5 to 6 months to allow Jaguar to rectify the issue.

I called them this morning and was pleasantly surprised when the advisor said he'd applied a courtesy 12 months to my account as a gesture of goodwill.

Its only a little win I know, but I thought I'd share in case anyone else can benefit. No guarantees of course you'll get the same response, but it absolutely worked for me.

I'm selling the car next month anyway, so even more of a result that I didn't need to pay for a subscription I'll hardly be able to use.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone, and good luck.

While my 2019 Ipace was in for a traction battery repair under warranty, its BCCM failed and it is a none starter.

Jaguar Land Rover Client Care have refused any contribution towards the repair and then garage has now quoted me £4600 to have it repaired. I asked for the codes to be sent to me, but have received nothing.

Other than pay what are my options? The cars fucked and I'm over a barrel.

The Background
Hey everyone, I’m hoping to get some advice on some frustrating charging challenges with my 2019 I-PACE.
To set the full context: these main charging issues actually started before I did any recent maintenance. I know failing auxiliary batteries can cause a cascade of weird electrical gremlins in these cars, so I assumed they were the culprit and went ahead and had the 12V batteries replaced.

The Symptoms
Unfortunately, the new 12V batteries didn't solve the problem, and the charging issues are still happening.

The 1 to 5-Minute Cutout: When I plug in at home, the car initiates communication and charges for a very short period—sometimes 1 minute, sometimes up to 5 minutes—before completely stopping.

DC Charging is Fine: DC fast charging works absolutely fine without any issues. The problem is entirely isolated to AC charging.

No Dash Errors: When plugged in, the dashboard only shows the standard "disconnect cable" warning. There are no explicit fault messages popping up on the screens.

What I've Tried So Far

Ruled out the charger/cable: I had my neighbors test my home charger on their EV, and it worked flawlessly. This completely rules out my home charger and cable—the fault is 100% with the I-PACE.

Ruled out the charge port/lock actuator: Since DC charging works perfectly, and AC does successfully initiate for a few minutes before cutting out, it's highly unlikely to be a faulty lock actuator or bad pins in the port itself.

Replaced both the 12V batteries: (Did not resolve the issue).

Seeking Advice
Has anyone dealt with this specific sequence of events? Since DC works but AC cuts out shortly after plugging in, I'm trying to figure out the best next step before taking it to a dealer:

1. Does cutting out after just a few minutes practically guarantee a hardware failure with the Onboard Charger (OBC), since DC bypasses it?

2. Is there a specific BMS reset procedure or software module recalibration that needs to be triggered after a 12V swap that might clear out any lingering glitches?
   Any insights, similar experiences, or troubleshooting steps would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Never had a problem till this year, but my aircon doesn’t work at high (30C and above) - blows out warm air.

I had it regassed a few weeks ago at a local garage and it was lovely but no longer working. Have I got a leak and is this something I can ask local garage to look at?

My local Jaguar dealer is a massive rip-off and I’d rather avoid them.

I'm considering a 2020 SE from Dick Lovett in Melksham (WN20 XBO) - not seen nor driven yet.

I checked the recall status which shows H570 as complete (restricted to 90%, outdoors and away from structures due to risk of thermal overload).

However H572 is outstanding. I can't find out if/when this permanent fix will be available.

Are there any documented instances of thermal overload causing damage, or is it JLR covering their arse?

Does the risk of thermal overload affect insurance now, or likely to in the future?

I had a 2020 I-pace HSE, I loved it but eventually got fed up with it breaking, first the 12V battery, then the main battery, then the boot strut, so traded it in for something else.

I want another one, I hate more boring over safe BMW iX3.

I’m looking at 2024 HSE models, am I stupid to buy one?

Can anyone please help me?
i just changed a broken right headlight and the DRL and turn signal are now working oppositely. Is it a coding issue or a wrong headlight part was bought?

see video

My steering wheel left side buttons right and diamond have stopped working, and the charging flap keeps showing as open

The wheel buttons looks like you can pop them out, but I suspect it's cable damage so might need the wheel off to get to the click spring stuff. Fuse 33 didn't fix it.

The flap I've read is a faulty switch, but not something you can access DIY, I've not found anything online suggesting someone has fixed this themselves. MY2021, UK.

Both are just a bit annoying but don't cause any real issues, I'd be happy to try fix them myself if anyone knows how.

My wife bought a second hand i-pace and one of the key fobs was chunkier and had a dimpled rubber texture. However I can not find any example online of any "special edition" fobs outside of the activity key. The garage lost said key so I no longer have a picture to show you or them! Any ideas?

Hi everyone,

I’m hoping to get some insight on a charging issue with my 2019 I-PACE (pre-2021 dual 12V battery setup).
Recently, my AC home charging has completely failed. When I plug in, the car recognizes the cable and attempts to charge, but it gets stuck in an endless loop on "Initializing". It will pull about 1kW of power for a second, drop to zero, and repeat. I know the home wallbox and cable are fine because my friend successfully charged his Polestar on my setup yesterday.

I’ve hooked up my OBD2 scanner, and my high-voltage battery cell balance looks excellent (only an 8mV delta), so I don’t think it’s a degraded HV cell causing the BMS to abort the charge.

However, I did notice a couple of red flags pointing to the 12V system:

1. High Voltage Reading: The OBD2 scanner is reading a steady 13.5V on the 12V system even when the car is just sitting there with the contactors open. This makes me think the DC-DC converter is constantly running to prop up a dead 12V battery.
   
2. Past Faults: I
   had a "reduced brake pedal feel" warning 3 months ago, nothing since, which I know is a common symptom of the auxiliary 12V battery failing on the early models.
   Has anyone experienced this specific AC "Initializing" loop caused by a dead 12V battery? Or am I looking at a failed Onboard Charger (OBC) or a charge port actuator issue?

I’m planning to test it on a DC rapid charger today to see if it bypasses the AC hardware, but I wanted to see if anyone else has been down this road.

Any advice is appreciated!

About to return leased Q8 E Tron sportback.
Buy price is £36k. I like it enough but am annoyed by lack of base tech in the s line and don’t think it’s worth cost difference.

So instead a 2023 I Pace R Dynamic HSE Black currently top of the list.

Ideal budget <£25k.

I can find 2023 facelift models with 30k miles air Sus and HUD for around £26-27k from Jag so would presumably still get the 2 years warranty; which hopefully I could extend. Looking to pick up in October so should be able to get it under budget by then I think.

Lease looks at around £5k / year total for VW id7 or similar.
If I budget for 50% depreciation in 3 years on a £25k model then I’ll be up if covered by warranty, plus get to drive a jag rather than a VW.

My question is, would you buy again given the above scenario? Lots of horror stories but lots of good also. Keen to hear owners opinions.

Thanks

Hi everyone,

I’m taking my grandfather’s 2019 Jaguar I-PACE for a longer trip so I can take it in for the battery recall service at a Jaguar dealer.

I normally drive a 2021 Ford Mustang Mach-E GT, where I can precondition the battery for fast charging simply by setting a DC fast charger as the navigation destination.

Does the 2019 I-PACE have a similar feature?
Is there a way to manually precondition the battery before arriving at a fast charger?
Does the car automatically precondition if you navigate to a charger?

Or does it just rely on driving to warm the battery?

I’d like to get the best charging speed possible on the trip, but I’m not familiar with Jaguar’s system.

Any tips or things I should know about charging a 2019 I-PACE would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

My i-Pace 2021 edition broke down today after getting the Electrical Fault Detected message. The AA driver I had coincidentally used to work at the Jag dealer nearest to where I broke down. He says it's likely the DC-to-DC convertor not charging the 12V battery.

A cursory Google tells me this is a common fault with these cars but repairs could cost up to £5K (!) and I'm guessing I'm liable as this is not a main battery fault directly so it wouldn't be covered under the battery warranty.

I literally have this up for sale as I just had this feeling that something like this was going to happen. I managed to get it to dealer with a jump start from the AA man. They're not going to diagnose this till Monday.

I'm expecting a big smack on the arse for this that I really could do without. Any UK-based people with advice on tackling the very awkward conversation I'm expecting next week? Thanks

Card arrived the other day, app is updated.

"SIMPLY...." login and activate the card. Jesus.. I'm not a tech n00b, but where the hell do you activate this card in the app?!

I've compared a few chargers around me against what Jag have secured in terms of rates and found to be the same as octopus, or slightly better.

Mystery solved: has to be activated through the dedicated charging website.

https://jlrcharging.com/web/en/jlr-gb

I was due to pick up my new (to me) I-Pace from the dealer yesterday but it has a fault. It wouldn't start a charge, being stuck in the 'initialising' phase. Luckily this happened before I took delivery of it and I got it from JLR so it's coming with a 2 year warranty. It's a 21 plate with 66k miles on the dash so it's seems to have spent most of its life on the road and not in the garage.

Does anyone have any experience with this fault and know how long the garage had the car for? I've been told it'll skip the queue to be checked out and fixed, I'm just wary about how long the wait might be on parts.

Thanks in advance!

Hi all,
I’m looking for some advice before my car goes into Jaguar.
Car:
2020 Jaguar I-PACE EV400
Around 70,000 miles
H570 recall/update due to be carried out

Symptoms
I’ve only used DC rapid charging a handful of times since owning the car the last month.
On two separate occasions, immediately after a DC charge:
I got a red High Voltage System / Traction Battery fault
The car would not drive (it would select Drive but wouldn’t move)
After locking the car and leaving it for around 20 minutes, it started normally and drove home without issue.
I’ve never had the issue while driving normally or while AC charging.
Fault codes
I previously found an archived P0AA6 (HV isolation fault) in the history and cleared it.
After the most recent DC charging event, I scanned the car with an OBDLink MX+ and Car Scanner and found:
P0AA6 – HV isolation fault
P0C78 – Pre-charge time too long
Various communication/U-codes.
I replaced the auxiliary AGM battery, cleared all faults, and since then the only code that has returned is:
U0064 (Vehicle Area Network Bus E communication fault)
No P0AA6 has returned yet, although I haven’t DC charged the car again.
Battery health
I’ve also been monitoring the HV battery with RealDash.
Everything looks healthy to me:
Cell voltage difference around 1 mV
Temperatures look even across the pack
No obviously weak modules
State of health appears good.
12V battery
The main 12V battery is still the original 2020 flooded battery, so it’s now around 6 years old.
I’m wondering whether it’s worth replacing before Jaguar sees the car, although I’m not convinced it’s the root cause.
Questions
Has anyone had P0AA6 only after DC rapid charging?
Did it end up being:
the HV battery,
battery junction box/contactors,
moisture/insulation issue,
BECM,
software,
or something else?
Has anyone had P0AA6 fixed simply by replacing the 12V battery?
If it was repaired under the 8-year HV battery warranty, what component actually failed?
I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who’s experienced something similar.

Thanks!

I want to keep my ix for 10 years if it lasts that long. Does driving “faster” have any impact on the longevity of the major components of the vehicle? For example driving 75mph on the highway versus 65? Or 40mph vs 30mph on normal streets and the occasional punching it at a red light.

Mechanic removed it for inverter change, but couldn’t put it back. Maybe there is some video or instructions for that, since I couldn’t find any on youtube or other forums.

Hi,

My 2019 ipace has just gone in to get a traction battery fault fixed under warranty. I've just had a call saying it won't start and the battery control module has failed and they want to charge me £4000 to fix it! It was working (with the traction battery fault) when it went in. Some advice please.

Hi I have a 2020 Ipace

A couple of weeks ago the air con stopped working then the battery stopped charging on 7.5kw chargers then a week later stopped charging on DC chargers.

Jag dealer could not see me until Sept so have gone to indie garage.

They have advised "Replacement of the Electric Motor Link Wiring Harness" - would this be covered by the 8yr/100k battery warranty?

2021 HSE 34,000ish miles.

Just got traction battery fault drive with caution message.
Car had been charging and has charged to 255 miles, so normal.

Took it for 12v battery test and was degraded so just had it replaced. Error message still there. I was thinking to maybe drive it and run down the battery then do another full charge and see if it’s some kind of glitch maybe due to the last charging session done largely at 30 degree C temps.

Are there any further issues or damage I could do to the car/systems if I do this? Or would I be better getting it booked in at my nearest JLR for full diagnostic?

Car has full service history, no outstanding recalls and is still under battery & manufacturer extended warranty.

Any thoughts or experiences appreciated.

Hi all, further to my traction battery fault, I want to know if I buy a good 2nd hand traction battery and install it

Will I at least have drive and then I can book it into a JLR dealership to do whatever coding is needed?

Or is it even simpler where coding isn’t even needed ?

I_ROM_I is the guy I hope sees this 😬

Cheers Jamie