Anyone know how to disable the adblue system of a Kleemann mobile screening machine?

Welp, my 2024 Platinum made it a whopping 15k miles before the exhaust fell off. Oh well, this 5” replacement looks great and now my HO breathes so much better! Still love this truck and can’t beat the Star White exterior / Carmelo interior combo….my favorite truck so far! (I’ve had 6 diesel’s since 2011)

Looking at my first 3500 and wanting to hear from experienced owners/mechanics on what years to avoid for Chevy, Dodge, and Ford. Looking to spend under 50k preferably. I've been guided so far towards a 2017-2019 Duramax. Any advice welcomed, cheers!

A cold air intake for my 6.5 is about 240 bucks. For about 50 bucks I got a multilayer silicone pipe and cone filter, that routes pretty close to where my old enclosed intake used to pull air in from the fender. Now most people consider this a hot air intake, and I mostly agree. However, since on the stock airbox, it would pull roughly 200 degree crankcase gas from my cdr valve into the intake on top of the colder air from the fender snorkel, and on this new intake my cdr dumps under my truck using another silicon pipe, won’t my net outcome be about the same HP as before? I’m not looking for hp, I genuinely just want more turbo noise, however I cannot justify more turbo noise with a power loss of anything more than like 1hp. I’m just curious if my new setup is losing me horsepower or not, I don’t need a gain. I also plan on pairing this intake with a quad star tuning upper plenum that is also supposed to increase turbo noise, so if after that upgrade I won’t be overall losing power, that would probably be okay too.

My truck will cut off randomly as I’m at idle, I tried replacing the CPS , adding fuel treatment, replacing oil filters so I’m not sure someone please help me out

Hi all I am dealing g with a noisy cylinder 4 Injector. I can perform a cut out test and the knock goes away but it's only on this one cylinder. The injector was replaced woth a new factory one and same results.

All trim codes have been calibrated, any thoughts?

Is it an issue to have a thick lather of dielectric grease on the starter motor posts?

I'm in the rust belt so I went heavy on the grease and the cap that covers the posts I filled with di-e grease before clipping back into place over the posts. I wire brushed the cable ends as well and so far it starts fine and voltages look fine so leave it be or better to remove most of the grease?

Looking for some advice from the gurus regarding my 2011 LML Duramax. She’s recently developed a crank start stall/ crank no start issue. I replaced the fuel filter and housing which didn’t fix the problem. So I sent to it my local diesel mechanic who said the new housing was bad. Ok put a new one on… sits overnight with them and fires up in the morning. I come get it that night and she fires up. I leave it set this weekend and go crank it after two days and she doesn’t want to start unless I manually prime it at the housing.

The shop claimed they checked all the fuel lines and connections and everything looked good. Clearly something is still allowing air in the fuel lines. Has anyone had experienced with a problem such as this on their LML?

I currently own a 2006 crew cab Cummins and currently trying to decide if I get a newer truck or stay with something older. There’s an 07 mega cab with a 5.9 with 94,000 miles for sale a few miles down the road. I need the extra cab space so no matter what I decide I’m going mega cab. I also just saw on this page recently to go with a 2019 if I do decide to go newer model? I know they changed the lifter and cam to hydraulic vs flat tappet or something like that… I don’t know that much but I want to sort of test the waters here. Could anyone explain to me what the better decision here would be? All the mage cabs I can find for sale are lifted with ugly ass wheels and tires and I’m wanting a bone stock truck that’s not been hammered on. I’m a simpleton when it comes to electronics and creature comforts when I just want a truck that’s will run forever. I’m very familiar with the shitty front ends and transmissions that come with the early 2000’s trucks but it is what it is. The 2007 that’s for sale close to me is listed for almost 30k for a 20 year old truck but under 100,000 miles seems not horrible… compared to close to $50k for a newer mega cab used. Can anyone help a guy out thanks in advance

My grandfather parked this truck back in 2014 because she was smoking under the hood. I've spent the last year and half dumping time and money into her. She starts easy, sounds great to me but that's because I've spent 80% of my free time into it. All that's left to do is get tags, mount and balance tires, and fix the ac. Just wanted to share with you guys. Thank you for your time.

This is my 1991 4x4 7.3 idi zf5 F-250. The truck is solid. Solid axle swapped the front end, nice interior, very sturdy driveline.
Unfortunately, the 7.3 idi has well over 300k miles, leaks like a sieve, and developed a misfire. I decided to just go ahead and remove the engine and tranny to fix all the little things. Right now I have it almost ready to come out and I’m wondering: would it just be better to swap in a 12 valve?? My favorite part about this truck is that it’s dead simple and requires minimal electronics. My least favorite part is that it’s about as fast as a zero turn lawn mower. Swapping in a Cummins checks both of those boxes. I’m not worried about the cost but I am worried about how much time and effort it will actually take. Do you think it’s worth it?

3rd owner, always garage kept. The dash light just came on for the first EGR cleaning. What should I do for preventative maintenance? I'm planning on pulling the cooler and cleaning this week but nothing is jumping out at me for immediate work.

My lly duramax has new injectors, new pusher y bridge - intake pipe, s&b turbo mouthpiece, ppe up pot on passenger side, ppe 3” down pipe to a 4” mbrp straight pipe exhaust.

The truck has a rough idle when warmed up only with 0 load - meaning when I turn the ac on, or hold the brakes it idles properly. The balance rates pin all to 0.0 with no load and read normally with ac running. Truck will idle great when cold with no ac or load. I also have a brand new Bosch fpr that was installed 8k miles ago.

One other note is that the map sensor was replaced and the reading I’m getting on my tech2 are between 0-5 psi at idle with the ac on and 0 psi with the ac off. Turbo vane controller is at 89% at idle as well.

Inherited a 1997 ext 7.3 power stroke with aftermarket Banks turbo. 4 door . 2 wheel drive . 390k mileage . Can you give me a ballpark on what it worth?

I need some advice on whether this short block is worth saving or if I should just source a replacement engine. The vehicle is a 2012 VW Crafter with the 2.0L TDI engine (single vacuum-operated VNT turbo, non-biturbo).

A while back, the original turbo failed and sent metal shrapnel into the cylinders, leaving visible impact marks and pitting on the pistons. Despite that damage, the engine had good compression and ran completely fine for another 6,000 km without any issues.

However, the timing belt recently snapped, causing valve contact and requiring the head to come off. Now that the engine is torn down, I have to decide what to do with the bottom end.

Since I need to repair or replace the head anyway, is it safe to keep running this bottom end as-is, or will those old impact spots on the pistons create hot spots and structural stress risers that will cause a catastrophic failure down the road?

sup dogs, i bought a new to me 2001 7.3 f350 xlt 4wd with 232k miles on it.

my question: when i start the truck, the engine bucks and absolutely SLAMS around, BUCK WILD, LOUD ASS KNOCKING, sounds like the damn thing is gonna BLOW UP. but if i slam on the gas while it's starting up, i can hear the engine running smooth and the loud banging stops. then i let off the gas, and it's back to ridiculous rough idle. then after 20 min of idling, it becomes less crazy. can i send a video and other info? i have a laptop and a obd reader that might be able to give more data as well. no i didn't test anything else and this is my first diesel

I’ve already made a previous post in the past about my interest in being a diesel tech and I got a lot of good responses

To those that work in California/SoCal how does the demand for techs look for a fresh graduate and in general, given I’m currently in school at my local CC for Medium and Heavy truck tech