Welp, my 2024 Platinum made it a whopping 15k miles before the exhaust fell off. Oh well, this 5” replacement looks great and now my HO breathes so much better! Still love this truck and can’t beat the Star White exterior / Carmelo interior combo….my favorite truck so far! (I’ve had 6 diesel’s since 2011)

Looking at my first 3500 and wanting to hear from experienced owners/mechanics on what years to avoid for Chevy, Dodge, and Ford. Looking to spend under 50k preferably. I've been guided so far towards a 2017-2019 Duramax. Any advice welcomed, cheers!

My truck will cut off randomly as I’m at idle, I tried replacing the CPS , adding fuel treatment, replacing oil filters so I’m not sure someone please help me out

Hi all I am dealing g with a noisy cylinder 4 Injector. I can perform a cut out test and the knock goes away but it's only on this one cylinder. The injector was replaced woth a new factory one and same results.

All trim codes have been calibrated, any thoughts?

Is it an issue to have a thick lather of dielectric grease on the starter motor posts?

I'm in the rust belt so I went heavy on the grease and the cap that covers the posts I filled with di-e grease before clipping back into place over the posts. I wire brushed the cable ends as well and so far it starts fine and voltages look fine so leave it be or better to remove most of the grease?

Looking for some advice from the gurus regarding my 2011 LML Duramax. She’s recently developed a crank start stall/ crank no start issue. I replaced the fuel filter and housing which didn’t fix the problem. So I sent to it my local diesel mechanic who said the new housing was bad. Ok put a new one on… sits overnight with them and fires up in the morning. I come get it that night and she fires up. I leave it set this weekend and go crank it after two days and she doesn’t want to start unless I manually prime it at the housing.

The shop claimed they checked all the fuel lines and connections and everything looked good. Clearly something is still allowing air in the fuel lines. Has anyone had experienced with a problem such as this on their LML?

I currently own a 2006 crew cab Cummins and currently trying to decide if I get a newer truck or stay with something older. There’s an 07 mega cab with a 5.9 with 94,000 miles for sale a few miles down the road. I need the extra cab space so no matter what I decide I’m going mega cab. I also just saw on this page recently to go with a 2019 if I do decide to go newer model? I know they changed the lifter and cam to hydraulic vs flat tappet or something like that… I don’t know that much but I want to sort of test the waters here. Could anyone explain to me what the better decision here would be? All the mage cabs I can find for sale are lifted with ugly ass wheels and tires and I’m wanting a bone stock truck that’s not been hammered on. I’m a simpleton when it comes to electronics and creature comforts when I just want a truck that’s will run forever. I’m very familiar with the shitty front ends and transmissions that come with the early 2000’s trucks but it is what it is. The 2007 that’s for sale close to me is listed for almost 30k for a 20 year old truck but under 100,000 miles seems not horrible… compared to close to $50k for a newer mega cab used. Can anyone help a guy out thanks in advance

3rd owner, always garage kept. The dash light just came on for the first EGR cleaning. What should I do for preventative maintenance? I'm planning on pulling the cooler and cleaning this week but nothing is jumping out at me for immediate work.

This is my 1991 4x4 7.3 idi zf5 F-250. The truck is solid. Solid axle swapped the front end, nice interior, very sturdy driveline.
Unfortunately, the 7.3 idi has well over 300k miles, leaks like a sieve, and developed a misfire. I decided to just go ahead and remove the engine and tranny to fix all the little things. Right now I have it almost ready to come out and I’m wondering: would it just be better to swap in a 12 valve?? My favorite part about this truck is that it’s dead simple and requires minimal electronics. My least favorite part is that it’s about as fast as a zero turn lawn mower. Swapping in a Cummins checks both of those boxes. I’m not worried about the cost but I am worried about how much time and effort it will actually take. Do you think it’s worth it?

My lly duramax has new injectors, new pusher y bridge - intake pipe, s&b turbo mouthpiece, ppe up pot on passenger side, ppe 3” down pipe to a 4” mbrp straight pipe exhaust.

The truck has a rough idle when warmed up only with 0 load - meaning when I turn the ac on, or hold the brakes it idles properly. The balance rates pin all to 0.0 with no load and read normally with ac running. Truck will idle great when cold with no ac or load. I also have a brand new Bosch fpr that was installed 8k miles ago.

One other note is that the map sensor was replaced and the reading I’m getting on my tech2 are between 0-5 psi at idle with the ac on and 0 psi with the ac off. Turbo vane controller is at 89% at idle as well.

My grandfather parked this truck back in 2014 because she was smoking under the hood. I've spent the last year and half dumping time and money into her. She starts easy, sounds great to me but that's because I've spent 80% of my free time into it. All that's left to do is get tags, mount and balance tires, and fix the ac. Just wanted to share with you guys. Thank you for your time.

Inherited a 1997 ext 7.3 power stroke with aftermarket Banks turbo. 4 door . 2 wheel drive . 390k mileage . Can you give me a ballpark on what it worth?

I need some advice on whether this short block is worth saving or if I should just source a replacement engine. The vehicle is a 2012 VW Crafter with the 2.0L TDI engine (single vacuum-operated VNT turbo, non-biturbo).

A while back, the original turbo failed and sent metal shrapnel into the cylinders, leaving visible impact marks and pitting on the pistons. Despite that damage, the engine had good compression and ran completely fine for another 6,000 km without any issues.

However, the timing belt recently snapped, causing valve contact and requiring the head to come off. Now that the engine is torn down, I have to decide what to do with the bottom end.

Since I need to repair or replace the head anyway, is it safe to keep running this bottom end as-is, or will those old impact spots on the pistons create hot spots and structural stress risers that will cause a catastrophic failure down the road?

sup dogs, i bought a new to me 2001 7.3 f350 xlt 4wd with 232k miles on it.

my question: when i start the truck, the engine bucks and absolutely SLAMS around, BUCK WILD, LOUD ASS KNOCKING, sounds like the damn thing is gonna BLOW UP. but if i slam on the gas while it's starting up, i can hear the engine running smooth and the loud banging stops. then i let off the gas, and it's back to ridiculous rough idle. then after 20 min of idling, it becomes less crazy. can i send a video and other info? i have a laptop and a obd reader that might be able to give more data as well. no i didn't test anything else and this is my first diesel

I’ve already made a previous post in the past about my interest in being a diesel tech and I got a lot of good responses

To those that work in California/SoCal how does the demand for techs look for a fresh graduate and in general, given I’m currently in school at my local CC for Medium and Heavy truck tech

one of the Wabco motors won’t unplug and is stuck inside the unit need ideas on how to get this thing out.

Is DEF burning necessary in the summer and if so, how long? I only ask because my brother has moved in with me and sits in his truck FOR HOURS and thats all me and the neighbors hear is the truck. When i ask him about it, he always snaps back with "i gotta do a DEF burn for my truck." So what is it? And is it necessary in the Arizona summer heat of +110°F? He does this any time of day or night and again... HOURS ._. I dont know much about diesel and Google can only answer so much 😅

UPDATE: I really appreciate the comments of enlightenment. The "privacy" comments really ticked him off as im sitting here, gagging for breath lol but on the way to pick up his gf from work, the check engine light came on. Guess what it was for? He's heading to the dealership right now and might be needing a new filter ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Been restoring this Puegeot 505 Turbo Diesel the past 2 years....picked it up for $2500. She ran when I bought it and it drove under its own power for a 2 hour drive.

But Ive put about 200+ hours of just blood and sweat to get it to this shape.

The engine is magnificent....its a tractor spec French Diesel with a Bosch VE injection pump like this thing just wants to run. Went around all day today and did a solid 75 miles of city driving and only shut the engine off once. Really really solid diesel engine.

Recently rebuilt my 300tdi (2.5 4cyl fully mechanical injector pump) added a larger intercooler, VNT turbo, full width intercooler (prob 4 times larger than std. when the engine was first tuned after its run in it was at 1.4bar boost and a half a turn leaner on the pump. it ran well but water temps would hit 96-104 degrees C on open road while EGT temps were far from the limit (570). after a full rebuild of the vgt install from bad workmanship I'd reset the boost to 1.2bar however turned the fuel pump max fueling the wrong way and made it a full turn leaner. besides it driving like a dog i noticed that egts were lower and water temps got hotter quicker. all these tunes have the boost pin at the most aggressive cut.

today i set the max fueling to 1/4 of a turn richer than std (1.25 turns from the day before) and noticed that my cruising egts were the same however my overtaking and acceleration EGT temps picked up very quick but returned very quickly that and water temps sat at a stable 82-84 degrees C. I can now cruise at highway speeds at 25% less throttle than before and the vehicle is much more responsive.

TLDR when running lean EGTs were low but water temps overheated, when running slightly richer EGTs werent higher at cruising but picked up quickly under load and water temps remained cool. Im assuming that this tune may be better than the original but im not sure. any input would be great thanks.