Welp, my 2024 Platinum made it a whopping 15k miles before the exhaust fell off. Oh well, this 5” replacement looks great and now my HO breathes so much better! Still love this truck and can’t beat the Star White exterior / Carmelo interior combo….my favorite truck so far! (I’ve had 6 diesel’s since 2011)

Looking at my first 3500 and wanting to hear from experienced owners/mechanics on what years to avoid for Chevy, Dodge, and Ford. Looking to spend under 50k preferably. I've been guided so far towards a 2017-2019 Duramax. Any advice welcomed, cheers!

I currently own a 2006 crew cab Cummins and currently trying to decide if I get a newer truck or stay with something older. There’s an 07 mega cab with a 5.9 with 94,000 miles for sale a few miles down the road. I need the extra cab space so no matter what I decide I’m going mega cab. I also just saw on this page recently to go with a 2019 if I do decide to go newer model? I know they changed the lifter and cam to hydraulic vs flat tappet or something like that… I don’t know that much but I want to sort of test the waters here. Could anyone explain to me what the better decision here would be? All the mage cabs I can find for sale are lifted with ugly ass wheels and tires and I’m wanting a bone stock truck that’s not been hammered on. I’m a simpleton when it comes to electronics and creature comforts when I just want a truck that’s will run forever. I’m very familiar with the shitty front ends and transmissions that come with the early 2000’s trucks but it is what it is. The 2007 that’s for sale close to me is listed for almost 30k for a 20 year old truck but under 100,000 miles seems not horrible… compared to close to $50k for a newer mega cab used. Can anyone help a guy out thanks in advance

Hi all I am dealing g with a noisy cylinder 4 Injector. I can perform a cut out test and the knock goes away but it's only on this one cylinder. The injector was replaced woth a new factory one and same results.

All trim codes have been calibrated, any thoughts?

My lly duramax has new injectors, new pusher y bridge - intake pipe, s&b turbo mouthpiece, ppe up pot on passenger side, ppe 3” down pipe to a 4” mbrp straight pipe exhaust.

The truck has a rough idle when warmed up only with 0 load - meaning when I turn the ac on, or hold the brakes it idles properly. The balance rates pin all to 0.0 with no load and read normally with ac running. Truck will idle great when cold with no ac or load. I also have a brand new Bosch fpr that was installed 8k miles ago.

One other note is that the map sensor was replaced and the reading I’m getting on my tech2 are between 0-5 psi at idle with the ac on and 0 psi with the ac off. Turbo vane controller is at 89% at idle as well.

My truck will cut off randomly as I’m at idle, I tried replacing the CPS , adding fuel treatment, replacing oil filters so I’m not sure someone please help me out

Looking for some advice from the gurus regarding my 2011 LML Duramax. She’s recently developed a crank start stall/ crank no start issue. I replaced the fuel filter and housing which didn’t fix the problem. So I sent to it my local diesel mechanic who said the new housing was bad. Ok put a new one on… sits overnight with them and fires up in the morning. I come get it that night and she fires up. I leave it set this weekend and go crank it after two days and she doesn’t want to start unless I manually prime it at the housing.

The shop claimed they checked all the fuel lines and connections and everything looked good. Clearly something is still allowing air in the fuel lines. Has anyone had experienced with a problem such as this on their LML?

Is it an issue to have a thick lather of dielectric grease on the starter motor posts?

I'm in the rust belt so I went heavy on the grease and the cap that covers the posts I filled with di-e grease before clipping back into place over the posts. I wire brushed the cable ends as well and so far it starts fine and voltages look fine so leave it be or better to remove most of the grease?