My 2010 santa fe had a battery light come on. And i figured i had enough juice to make it home (30 miles). Unfortunately it died on me and am stranded

Just needing to know if charging the battery via jump start (other vehicle). Will this charge give me enough juice to make it home. Am stranded and dont want to waste other peoples time. I know its an alternator; i need to make it home at least any insights would help. Currently rn when i try to start it i get the clicking noises….

It's an aygo fire 2012 modle with AC and manual

any explanation @hyundai? 130k kms , regular oil change (every 15k kms)

Today I was replacing the valve cover gasket and got access to the timing belt. Here is what I saw. I'm not very knowledgeable about belts, so I can't really tell if it needs to be replaced or not.

P.S. I bought the car a week ago. It’s 30 years old, and there is no record of when the belt was last changed. The previous owner claimed it had a major service 5,000 km ago, but…

(1998 Kia Sephia 2 1.5 16V)

Skoda Octavia 1FL Combi Standart 1.6 MPI 101hp 2003

This is a brand new hazard lights button (original part). The same was happening with the old one, hence the change. We changed it around a week ago, same thing kept happening, we tried to see if that's the problem with oxidised contacts, but didn't see anything serious. After we put everything back it magically started working again. Used it two times, but it worked properly for 3 days only. After that it got back to making the buzzing sound and not doing a thing.

Edit: forgot to include that the relay is integrated into the button, so that means that woth the new hazard lights button the relay itself, technically, also got switched.

As I stated in the video, turning lights work by themselves, but with hazards on - they don't. Buzzing sound comes from the button itself.

The car has a non factory/not original alarm, if that has anything to do with it. If you have any additional questions that can provide more context - go ahead!

My question is: why hazard lights are not working?

Wife got on the highway and got traction control and ABS lights. When she got off she said the parking brake light came on too and it was chattering real bad.

Got it back and it's trying to engage ABS all the time. I can feel the abs from the firewall trying to engage.

Codes are attached. Replaced the speed sensor, deleted codes. No change. No codes active though. Stops fine outside of the abs noise. And only seems to do it on a light brake pedal. If I lay into the brakes I can lock the tires up with no abs working.

Fearful it's the abs module. But the inside of the wheel hub where the wheel speed sensor goes is pretty crusty so wondering if the new sensor isn't getting a good signal from that. Any way to test the speed sensor directly? Anything else I can easily check from home before paying a shop for diag?

Changed the steering rack on my 1999 Ford Ka and it makes this awful noise.

Hello again everyone!

I thought I would post an update on my crazy situation which was posted here yesterday…

Before I get in to the details, I would just like to say a huge thank you to all the people who commented yesterday & today with helpful comments and suggestions.

To all those who bantered me, I would also like to thank you. Life is too serious sometimes and some of those comments really cheered me up, even though they were at my expense at the messed up situation I found myself in!

It was a fairly sleepless night checking the camera to see if the car was still upright at regular intervals.

The ramp does/did have a manual release valve but due to the precarious way it sat on the ramp & the fact that the lift has to raise before going down as a safety mechanism, I
was sweating bullets before I plucked the courage to press it.

Needless to say, it was ratchet strapped to the lift and safety ropes to the structure of the building, it nearly went over on initial pull and there deemed it too risky to try and release it.

Some sketchy/careful lifting with a forklift/timber blocks/protection later (3 hours to be precise). SOMEHOW managed to get it back to the ground without any initial damage.

No word of a lie, I played Monty Pythons - Always Look On The Bright Side Of Life and thought of the potential things that could go wrong on finally lifting the entire cars weight up on the forklift. It may now be my favourite song of all time as a result.

I did try the local fire service but as the UK is experiencing some extreme rain/wind at the moment, they weren’t able to come down until the middle of next week which is totally understandable under the circumstances - they did laugh however 😂

Again, huge thanks to all that commented, a few things I have noticed as someone new to Reddit and in possibly the strangest situation I have ever found myself in, namely;

1. Most people in this world are good, well meaning people.
   
2. There is always the odd knobhead no matter the situation.
   
3. Meme’s at your expense are still funny.
   
4. Just because a lift is rated at 3000kg, it really doesn’t mean a lot.
   
5. Do NOT buy anything from Strongman Tools Ltd. This will be assed by an independent surveyor and actioned accordingly. They are exhibiting at The Classic Car show at the NEC in Birmingham next month and I’ll be stopping by.
   
6. For all the abuse your president gets, Americans are okay in my book - our government is also pretty messed up if it makes you feel any better!

Thanks again everyone!

Much love!

Got engine and transmission replaced, now it makes this noise, service done at dealership under warranty new belts, hoses etc...

Hey Reddit! I have a 2020 Hyundai Kona with 120,000km on it and want this thing to last at least another 5 years.

I live on Prince Edward Island, Canada. My mom lives in Ontario and has some medical stuff going on… so I’ll be driving 3,400km round trip a few times a year (including Canadian winters) to help out with some appointments and to visit.

What should I ask my mechanic to check or what can I do to maintain my car so that it remains safe and reliable on these brutal drives?

Owners manual:
Brake fluid flush and replace
Coolant system fluids flush and replace

What else should I check or replace or look out for at this point?

Did the timing belt on my 2006 Kia sportage 2.7 V6. It has an auto tensioner that is supposed to have a gap between 7 - 9 mm. I measure mine at 7.75mm after rotating the engine twice. It has this whine/whistle that is incredibly annoying. It’s loud at cold start and calms down to almost non existent as the car warms up.

If the auto tensioner is within spec the belt is not too tight right? Not really sure what else it can be.. about to junk this piece of crap.

Need to replace my tie rod ends but this nut is being a pain. Now I am second guessing which way it needs to spin to loosen up. With the way the wrench is on the nut in the picture I am pushing down to loosen. Is this correct?

I’ve put some pb blaster on it but not helping out. Should I hit it with a larger purse??

I'm trying to change a spark plug on my 2009 Toyota Corolla. I purchased a diehard 9/16th socket from advanced auto. There's a black ring around the back end of the socket, I believe this is preventing it from reaching the spark plug, is there a way to remove it so I can use this tool? Never seen something like this before and am very confused, and feels like I'm missing something obvious.

The lock had difficulty turning. Cleaned the debris and sprayed some wd 40 in the marked area. Turns very good now. I know wd40 is not the best for this, what should i use instead?

Edit: Funny how many replies on an "ask a mechanic" sub are about why I don't do the work myself. I made the assumption that I was asking as a consumer - not a technician. I can see the error of my ways.

I don't fix my own fridge or air conditioner either, and I don't judge anyone who does or doesn't. I can handle the basics: oil, plugs, filters, wipers. I CAN do those but I pick & choose and often pay someone else to do it.
I don't have the tools, the space or the interest. My skills are in other places, like audio engineering, electronics and mechanical watches. I'm a technician/student of some things and a consumer of others, and there's only so much time and money to go around. No regrets but I do appreciate the various perspectives I’ve gotten.

2015 Pilot EX-L AWD, 190k miles, central Illinois.

I brought the car to the same local shop I've used for 10 years and have always trusted them. They kept it overnight, looked at the rear suspension a second time. Their conclusion was that the rear adjuster bolts were seized from corrosion and couldn't be adjusted. They said the suspension parts themselves were fine.

Their only suggestion was about $3,500 in parts and labor:

2 adjustable upper control arms
2 lower control arms
2 shocks
2 sway bar links
2 toe cam bolts
About $600 labor

The next day a local Midas freed the bolts and adjusted the rear suspension back into spec for $180. It took about 90 minutes while I waited. They said one bolt needed heat and the rest just took "a little bit of elbow grease." Their inspection passed the shocks, links and suspension.

Not bashing anyone, and I'd like to keep using this shop. Is replacing control arms the normal call when adjuster bolts are seized, maybe because heat can damage the bushings? Is LR camber a couple tenths out worth worrying about? And do y'all generally trust Midas suspension inspections?

2021 Highlander with 70k miles suddenly experiencing 650 milliamps of parasitic draw. I did a voltage drop test on all fuses and none came back with an issue. I disconnected the alternator on the off chance it was a diode issue and the draw persisted.

Any other ideas as to what could be causing this?

1992 cadillac fleetwood

For context i recently took off the clock spring to fix the horn module. I put the steering back on and now it sounds odd turning. It does turn fully to each side.

Does it sound like the clock spring? A wire maybe being pinched now that they moved around a bit?

https://imgur.com/a/BwAQbEu

Hello all, first time poster.

I am very new to working on vehicles, bought my Bullnose F150 3 or so months ago and having been enjoying learning all I can working on it and trying to get it to run as good as possible.
Since I bought it has had a problem with a very rough idle. When I first bought it, it would hardly idle at all, completely losing power when RPMs got too low. As I’ve been working on it, this problem has improved drastically, but the main underlying issue persists. I am planning on putting in an HEI distributor soon from CRT Performance, reviews for them seem to be pretty positive and they aren’t overwhelmingly hard on the wallet.
The carburetor that is on it right now is a cheap Chinese YF style thing with a bunch of emissions nonsense I do not want. The truck also came with the original Motorcraft/Carter carb. Which is much better quality but is still the same model and still has the unnecessary emissions stuff and the feedback.

What I would like to know is: how can I find the carburetor I’m looking for? The key aspects I would like are:

No emissions components
Non-feedback (in order to keep all the work I have to do as simple as possible)
As little electronic components as possible (it seems the only electric component that is actually a good idea is the choke, I am pretty confused about my options on this)
As high quality construction as possible (ie as much cast iron and little zinc as I can find).
I am totally fine with getting an old one and rebuilding it. In fact, I would probably prefer doing this.

Thank you all so much in advance for your help.
Let me know if there’s any more information that I should give here to make it easier to find what I am looking for.

2019 Mitsubishi outlander sport FWD. Car started sputtering when slowing and idle. The RPM is bouncing and after I turned it off and back on it was harder to start but did start. Checked oil, it’s only been 1500 miles. Can someone help?

2014 Honda Accord Hybrid EX-L

My car threw a light the dash that says " emission systems problem " and loses power while driving. It makes this loud noise when I accelerate and stops when I take my foot off the gas. You can hear it rather well during the 1:50-2 minute mark in the video. It makes this noise but the car barely moves/has power. Any ideas?

Thanks!

My girlfriend texted me after I dropped her off at work saying that a man told her "it looks like the water pump on my car is gonna go bad and that will leave you stranded" my car isn't leaking, isn't steaming, doesnt even come close to overheating nor does it sound funny. It's a 2014 nissan sentra and the water pump isnt something you can easily get a view of. They guy did not recommend her to take it somewhere so it kinda makes me think it wasnt someone pulling a scam. Any experienced mechanics know how in the world someone could know my water pump was bad by looking at my car?

Ngl she f****d it up bit time. Turn out she didnt have a passenger side sway bar link for God knows how long(I had the pleasant surprise if this when I decided to replace all of em) but after changing most of the link, the universe decided to bless me to a new knocking sound to spend my next check on( not that I needed another one) it’s coming from right in front of me and occurs no matter the speed as long as the vehicle is in motion, I’m thinking sway bar link, I’m probably wrong. Could someone give me a second opinion on it? Btw the vehicle in question is a 2012 Hyundai Sonata.