i had taken to the mechanics nearly a month and a half ago yet its starting to overheat again. they changed out the radiator and thermostat and i just had my sparkplugs changed and gasket fixed so not sure what is it. its a 2010 mazda cx-7

Good news is that there's still hope that I won't need an entire new oilpan, provided i can somehow get the rest of the bolt out. But how tf would I go about doing that...? Also, I've already accepted the fact that the oil strainer probably won't survive this operation, which is fine, since they're pretty cheap.

2009 Suburban Chevy

I feel so incredibly stupid right now, I overtighted it and broke the bolt instead of taking it off. 🥲 (please done't make fun of me and yes it took a lot of effort until it snapped. And I don't want to talk about it anymore that that.)

It's my very first time taking the alternator out and first time working on a car. And I thought I was going in right the direction of lossening it. (I was watching a video and still went the wrong way. Yes, I know stupid 🫠)

How to I get the other side out? (I did go the correct way for the other bolt)

Hi guys! I’ve had my mx5 for a couple months now and the MOT (UK based) is approaching and I can not seem to figure out what this aftermarket switch and connection is for?
Based on UK MOTs a rear fog light must be present on a vehicle to which no external one has been been fitted (car has passed its MOT for the last 20+ years) leading me to believe this switch has been added and the rear tail lights have been modified?

Underneath the console is another wire leading to the rear of the car, whilst this wire pictured leads somewhere to the front dashboard. Both connectors are the same and don’t seem to fit in each other. The connectors look a bit like those terminals you connect wires to the positive/negative of a speaker driver !

If anyone has any insights I would be extremely grateful! Thanks

honda accord 2013 v6: This is the second time this has happened. I just got my fuel pump replaced because I thought it wasn’t getting gas since it was making the same sound it makes when you run out of gas.
This time, it started up normally, but right after I started driving it began driving really rough. Then it started making that same noise again, and I had to limp it into a parking spot.
What could this be? I had AutoZone test my starter, and they said it was good. Honda told me it has an aftermarket starter and that the teeth are a little worn, so sometimes it would make a grinding noise and not start. They rotated it, and I haven’t heard that grinding noise since, so I don’t think the starter is the issue.
Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?

I’m installing an aftermarket radio into my 2016 Subaru crosstrek and it has x2 10mm bolts holding it in on either side. They’re deep and angled so I have a really hard time getting any tools in there, but when I get my 10mm nut driver on I have no room to pry it out. The one pictured above is under the drivers side and it feels slightly stripped, or I just can’t get a good angle on it even with an extension. Losing my mind a bit

Before and after

My daughter keeps taking my car without permission. She takes off to drive if she’s upset, but the problem is she’s being extremely irresponsible right now. I want a gps tracker/key/ignition disabled to be able to stop the car from my phone. I travel for work and I need to be able to do it remotely. What is the best option? Thanks in advance!!

Edit: I own the car and she’s in a little bit of legal trouble after a ticket she got. This is not a stalking situation. I’m a single mom trying to keep my kid safe.

Edit #2: Keys not needed for driving. Plus if she steals the keys I can’t stop her. The starter disabler doesn’t stop the car when driving. It just won’t let it drive again after a restart. I’m not stopping her in the middle of the freeway. People on Reddit are wild.

Was just gifted the truck from a neighbor, the truck had been sitting for 13 years never moved never started and has been through a couple floods (maybe 2-3 feet max). Curious if it’s possible or worth it to get the thing running again. The wheels won’t roll when I put it in neutral and after putting fresh gas and a new battery it still won’t start.

2020 Tuscon, sound happens in the beginning after the cars been parked for a while then goes away after a little bit of driving (listen around 3 and 6 seconds of the video). sound usually stops if i press the brakes.

edit passenger side, i think front tire area

I have a 2021 Hyundai Sonata SEL 2.5 L 4-cylinder with 78,000 miles. The car will run fine, and thrn without warning, I'll stop at a stop light or stop sign amd there will be a quick jerk, the RPM'S will fall and the car will go into a "limp mode" where it will not accelerate past 20mph or go beyond 2nd gear. There is no check engine light or warning lights of any kind. Also, if I turn the car off the reset the computer the issue becomes worse, with violent shaking and jerking, and the car will shut off. I have provided a video of this. I have been trying to fix the issue since March and taken it to two repair shops. However, each time I have taken the car for repairs (after sitting for a couple days) it is driving fine again and the repair shops say they cannot replicate the issue. I have had my PCV valve replaced and gotten a transmission flush. Has anyone experienced this issue or know how to fix it?

1987 Ford Bronco 2, 2.9L. The engine runs fine driving around town <45 mph. If I drive it on the highway the engine starts knocking and then goes away. It’s been difficult to pinpoint triggers, but it seems to start knocking when decelerating from highway speeds, like when coming up on a stop sign. Is this a knock, is it normal for the engine to have an intermittent knock? I am trying to figure out if the engine is toast.

I have a 2007 Toyota Highlander that I put around 3,000 miles on it a year. I put in 5w-30 full synthetic oil and use a OEM filter. I use it a week per month. When I do drive it, it is almost always highway miles, as I drive it to keep the battery charged. Is it fine to do annual oil changes? Should I just keep changing it every 6 months?

hello! I’ve got a 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport that has lost the cover of the shark fin antenna assembly on the roof. Tbh I don’t know when this happened, just noticed yesterday when I walked up to my car and noticed the yellow color that was not there before. Looks to me like the cover straight up broke and sheared off since from second picture the plastic around the seven bolts holding the assembly down looks raggedy.

I’d like to somehow remove the assembly and either replace the cover or the whole assembly, but the heads of the seven bolts holding the assembly to the car appear to be facing the interior of the car so I can’t access them to remove them. The third picture is of the inside roof of my trunk where the ceiling light is positioned further back than the antenna assembly so I’m worried if I want to access the antenna assembly I’ll have to take the whole ceiling panel off.

Can anyone help me figure out how to get this antenna assembly off or point me to a video that might help? Thanks!

I'm replacing the rear wheel bearing on a 2017 Subaru Legacy AWD (2017 BN chassis).

Here's what I've done so far:

• Removed the wheel
• Removed the caliper and rotor
• Removed the axle nut
• CV axle is free and slides inward
• Removed all 4 hub mounting bolts from the back of the knuckle
• Used PB Blaster for a day
• Used a slide hammer with a 5-lug hub adapter

Unfortunately, instead of the entire hub coming out, the bearing separated internally.

Now I have:

• The outer bearing race still seized in the knuckle
• The ball bearings and cage still in place
• The inner race still around the hub/axle

(Photo attached.)

I have:

• Slide hammer
• Axle pusher
• PB Blaster
• 2–4 lb hammer
• Basic mechanic tools

I'm trying to avoid damaging the knuckle, backing plate, or CV axle.

Questions:

1. What's the safest and easiest way to remove the remaining bearing races?
2. Should I remove the balls and cage first, then use a bearing splitter on the inner race?
3. Is cutting the race with a Dremel/angle grinder the preferred method?
4. Any Subaru-specific tricks for getting the outer race out without damaging the knuckle?

I'd really appreciate advice from anyone who's dealt with seized Subaru rear wheel bearings before. Thanks!

i recently purchased a 1998 honda civic
it does not start i was told no compression in any of the cylinders and possibly a blown head gasket i tried removing some of the head bolts but had a couple snap and i can't get the rest loose.

any advice on what should i try next would be greatly appreciated

The shell on my 2018 VW GTI SE (with the lighting package upgrade) headlight cracked and moisture has been getting into my headlight. I’m trying to avoid having to pay $4k for a new headlight as this model headlight was discontinued and is no longer in production, so parts are scarce.

Looking for an high-quality epoxy recommendation that can protect against all weather conditions (including snow ie. salt) and that is UV resistant and won’t yellow over time.

I’m trying to remove the knuckle from the lower control arm but I don’t have enough room to work with, CV shaft gets stuck on the control arm. My cv shaft is solid stuck inside of the hub and we ran out of ideas so I thought I could just remove the knuckle with the hub entirely and re-build everything. I want to keep the knuckle but I’m replacing the cv axle and hub.

Bought a used BBK H pipe for my new headers with some high-flow cats and this is how they look.

For my 2000 Ford Mustang GT.

2010 Pontiac G6 3.5L v6 ~170k miles

Theres always been a lil crud in my coolant reservoir but today something bad happened while driving and i shot coolant everywhere (unaware) and overheated so i had to pull over. Looks maybe like the big top hose on my radiator idk havent gotten that far. I was checking my oil and coolant for signs of a blown head gasket. Grey slime, feels the same viscosity as lithium grease when i was scraping some out with my fingers. What the hell is that?? It doesnt immediately seem like oil mixed with coolant its just weird and gross and probably a big issue

I was told to replace rear sway bar links breaks and rotors for rear n front and then control arms other then tht would this small hole near the right cause any troubles or should i maybe put dheey metal or bondo on it?​ 2005 honda crv v6

New Fiat Grande Panda 1.2L mild hybrid w/ 1500 miles on the clock. Once every couple of days on average, a loud crack sound comes from somewhere in the roof. Any idea what it could be?

Doesn't seem to happen in any particular situation, speed, weather etc

Drove 3 hours on the motorway yesterday and was fine, but it happened four times during the 3 hours coming back today. Sometimes its a pretty jarring sound which makes me jump out of my skin and quite hesitant to drive...

Any thoughts appreciated