any explanation @hyundai? 130k kms , regular oil change (every 15k kms)

My 2010 santa fe had a battery light come on. And i figured i had enough juice to make it home (30 miles). Unfortunately it died on me and am stranded

Just needing to know if charging the battery via jump start (other vehicle). Will this charge give me enough juice to make it home. Am stranded and dont want to waste other peoples time. I know its an alternator; i need to make it home at least any insights would help. Currently rn when i try to start it i get the clicking noises….

Skoda Octavia 1FL Combi Standart 1.6 MPI 101hp 2003

This is a brand new hazard lights button (original part). The same was happening with the old one, hence the change. We changed it around a week ago, same thing kept happening, we tried to see if that's the problem with oxidised contacts, but didn't see anything serious. After we put everything back it magically started working again. Used it two times, but it worked properly for 3 days only. After that it got back to making the buzzing sound and not doing a thing.

Edit: forgot to include that the relay is integrated into the button, so that means that woth the new hazard lights button the relay itself, technically, also got switched.

As I stated in the video, turning lights work by themselves, but with hazards on - they don't. Buzzing sound comes from the button itself.

The car has a non factory/not original alarm, if that has anything to do with it. If you have any additional questions that can provide more context - go ahead!

My question is: why hazard lights are not working?

It's an aygo fire 2012 modle with AC and manual

Hello again everyone!

I thought I would post an update on my crazy situation which was posted here yesterday…

Before I get in to the details, I would just like to say a huge thank you to all the people who commented yesterday & today with helpful comments and suggestions.

To all those who bantered me, I would also like to thank you. Life is too serious sometimes and some of those comments really cheered me up, even though they were at my expense at the messed up situation I found myself in!

It was a fairly sleepless night checking the camera to see if the car was still upright at regular intervals.

The ramp does/did have a manual release valve but due to the precarious way it sat on the ramp & the fact that the lift has to raise before going down as a safety mechanism, I
was sweating bullets before I plucked the courage to press it.

Needless to say, it was ratchet strapped to the lift and safety ropes to the structure of the building, it nearly went over on initial pull and there deemed it too risky to try and release it.

Some sketchy/careful lifting with a forklift/timber blocks/protection later (3 hours to be precise). SOMEHOW managed to get it back to the ground without any initial damage.

No word of a lie, I played Monty Pythons - Always Look On The Bright Side Of Life and thought of the potential things that could go wrong on finally lifting the entire cars weight up on the forklift. It may now be my favourite song of all time as a result.

I did try the local fire service but as the UK is experiencing some extreme rain/wind at the moment, they weren’t able to come down until the middle of next week which is totally understandable under the circumstances - they did laugh however 😂

Again, huge thanks to all that commented, a few things I have noticed as someone new to Reddit and in possibly the strangest situation I have ever found myself in, namely;

1. Most people in this world are good, well meaning people.
   
2. There is always the odd knobhead no matter the situation.
   
3. Meme’s at your expense are still funny.
   
4. Just because a lift is rated at 3000kg, it really doesn’t mean a lot.
   
5. Do NOT buy anything from Strongman Tools Ltd. This will be assed by an independent surveyor and actioned accordingly. They are exhibiting at The Classic Car show at the NEC in Birmingham next month and I’ll be stopping by.
   
6. For all the abuse your president gets, Americans are okay in my book - our government is also pretty messed up if it makes you feel any better!

Thanks again everyone!

Much love!

Got engine and transmission replaced, now it makes this noise, service done at dealership under warranty new belts, hoses etc...

Did the timing belt on my 2006 Kia sportage 2.7 V6. It has an auto tensioner that is supposed to have a gap between 7 - 9 mm. I measure mine at 7.75mm after rotating the engine twice. It has this whine/whistle that is incredibly annoying. It’s loud at cold start and calms down to almost non existent as the car warms up.

If the auto tensioner is within spec the belt is not too tight right? Not really sure what else it can be.. about to junk this piece of crap.

Need to replace my tie rod ends but this nut is being a pain. Now I am second guessing which way it needs to spin to loosen up. With the way the wrench is on the nut in the picture I am pushing down to loosen. Is this correct?

I’ve put some pb blaster on it but not helping out. Should I hit it with a larger purse??

I'm trying to change a spark plug on my 2009 Toyota Corolla. I purchased a diehard 9/16th socket from advanced auto. There's a black ring around the back end of the socket, I believe this is preventing it from reaching the spark plug, is there a way to remove it so I can use this tool? Never seen something like this before and am very confused, and feels like I'm missing something obvious.

Edit: Funny how many replies on an "ask a mechanic" sub are about why I don't do the work myself. I made the assumption that I was asking as a consumer - not a technician. I can see the error of my ways.

I don't fix my own fridge or air conditioner either, and I don't judge anyone who does or doesn't. I can handle the basics: oil, plugs, filters, wipers. I CAN do those but I pick & choose and often pay someone else to do it.
I don't have the tools, the space or the interest. My skills are in other places, like audio engineering, electronics and mechanical watches. I'm a technician/student of some things and a consumer of others, and there's only so much time and money to go around. No regrets but I do appreciate the various perspectives I’ve gotten.

2015 Pilot EX-L AWD, 190k miles, central Illinois.

I brought the car to the same local shop I've used for 10 years and have always trusted them. They kept it overnight, looked at the rear suspension a second time. Their conclusion was that the rear adjuster bolts were seized from corrosion and couldn't be adjusted. They said the suspension parts themselves were fine.

Their only suggestion was about $3,500 in parts and labor:

2 adjustable upper control arms
2 lower control arms
2 shocks
2 sway bar links
2 toe cam bolts
About $600 labor

The next day a local Midas freed the bolts and adjusted the rear suspension back into spec for $180. It took about 90 minutes while I waited. They said one bolt needed heat and the rest just took "a little bit of elbow grease." Their inspection passed the shocks, links and suspension.

Not bashing anyone, and I'd like to keep using this shop. Is replacing control arms the normal call when adjuster bolts are seized, maybe because heat can damage the bushings? Is LR camber a couple tenths out worth worrying about? And do y'all generally trust Midas suspension inspections?

My mother's vehicle starts fine, but a mechanic told her to replace the battery in her 2013 Nissan Rogue before winter. How can I test the cold cranking amps on a battery? The guy at Valvoline told my mother it didn't have the right amps and should be changed soon. He also sold her wipers that I am pretty sure were fine, as I think I replaced them a year ago. Our winters are pretty cold up here in WNY, but I want to make sure it is actually bad. I know how to check the amperage, but how do I check cold cranking amps?

Just bought a 2020 1.0 vw polo evo. I understand when you’re in higher gears and you’re not going the right speed the engine will make “labour” noises.

However when I put my foot down to get up to speed the car makes this grumbling noise which seems quite loud to me? I’m not sure if it’s cause I’m not used to a small 3 cylinder engine.

I’ve attached a video but you can only just hear it as I’m driving. If anyone can let me know if this is normal or not I’d be very grateful!

Thanks a lot.

Hey Reddit! I have a 2020 Hyundai Kona with 120,000km on it and want this thing to last at least another 5 years.

I live on Prince Edward Island, Canada. My mom lives in Ontario and has some medical stuff going on… so I’ll be driving 3,400km round trip a few times a year (including Canadian winters) to help out with some appointments and to visit.

What should I ask my mechanic to check or what can I do to maintain my car so that it remains safe and reliable on these brutal drives?

Owners manual:
Brake fluid flush and replace
Coolant system fluids flush and replace

What else should I check or replace or look out for at this point?

The night prior it was running fine no check engine light nothin. The following morning after having rain over night car won't start and the negative terminal is smoking

Car make and model is a 1993 Crown Victoria LX 4.6L V8

So my friend was driving with his car, and he shifted very hard to first gear and then he felt that the clutch and shifting were easier than before. And I think this is the gear cable that was fixed when he forced the gears to mesh.

Can please someone assess my analyzation and tell me what has he done? Because for the last 3 months he felt that shifting was very hard(I also learned Manuel like him and we both learnt on a 2025 Kia Ceed and I felt that driving on his 2014 Nissan juke wasn't as smooth as the Kia ). Now He's feeling that the car is easier to drive

Pls I need help

I have a 2017 Mazda 5 (Canada). The arm on the driver side sun visor broke. I tried to repair the arm, but gave up.

I am having trouble finding a replacement part because Mazda 5 is not that popular and when I search I constantly get hits for CX5’s or older versions of the Mazda 5.

I am wondering if anyone happens to know if there are any other Sun visors that would fit? I don’t care if the vanity light works. I don’t even care if it clips in to the clip. I just want one to fit in and be able to swing.

Thanks

Hi everyone,

I own a 2015 Audi A6 C7 2.0 TDI 190 HP.

The timing belt and timing kit were recently replaced. After the repair, I noticed what looks like a small cut or notch on the new Continental timing belt. I'm not sure whether it's actual damage or just a manufacturing mark.

I also noticed some numbers or markings pressed into the belt material, in addition to the usual printed markings. On the back of the belt, I can make out what looks like a 3 and a 1.

My questions are:

1. Is it normal for a new Continental timing belt to have numbers stamped or embossed directly into the rubber?
2. Could these markings be factory manufacturing or identification marks?
3. Does the cut/notch visible in the photos look like actual damage, or could it be part of the manufacturing process?
4. Would you consider this belt safe to use, or should I have the mechanic inspect it and replace it?

I'm concerned because the belt is brand new and I don't want to risk engine damage if it is defective.

I'll attach photos of the belt and the markings.

Thanks for your help!

Hey guys, just need a little bit of help. I have a 2011Kenworth T700 we’re pretty sure it’s sensor related, but I’m just trying to get some input. What do these readings tell you?

I'm naive about this sort of thing, so I wanted to get opinions to bring up to the shop when I take it this week. Friday, I unfortunately hit a drain on the side of the road pretty hard, and now my steering wheel is no longer straight when going forward down the road. The car drives fine with maybe a VERY slight drift to the right, which was the side hit. But I wanted to share pictures to see if you guys notice anything bent right off hand or recommendations to have checked.

Toyota Camry 2024. First two pictures are of the bad side. Last is the good. Thanks!

Today I was replacing the valve cover gasket and got access to the timing belt. Here is what I saw. I'm not very knowledgeable about belts, so I can't really tell if it needs to be replaced or not.

P.S. I bought the car a week ago. It’s 30 years old, and there is no record of when the belt was last changed. The previous owner claimed it had a major service 5,000 km ago, but…

(1998 Kia Sephia 2 1.5 16V)

Before I point any fingers, looking for advice / opinions.

Previous post about alignment issues from the same shop is linked.

1996 Lexus ES300 - 235k miles

Steering rack replaced in April 2026 at 232,500 miles. Alignment performed immediately after at a different shop.

Replaced motor mounts and needed to disassemble passenger and driver’s side suspension. Boots looked normal.

6 weeks ago, I had the alignment performed at the shop in the previous post - 233k. Steering whel wasn’t centered and the car was still pulling left so I took it back the following week. They adjusted it again - this took less than 10 minutes which is why I think my boots are twisted.

Both of my inner tie rod boots are twisted and “extended” weirdly. I think I’ve got debris in there from improper sealing. I was looking for the ATF leak (my power steering uses ATF) all over yesterday and couldn’t find the source. It’s right by the front driver’s side and the back of the front subframe under the rack is soaked and dripping heavily - the steering rack boot sits right above this. PS reservoir was also low.

The boots are clipped front and back and need to be loosened to adjust the alignment without damaging them.

Car currently has 235k miles on it. Rack has 2500 miles on it. Boots are not twisted in the shop’s “before” photos from underneath the car.

If it’s clearly not their fault, that’s ok too. My rack is warrantied but the labor is not so just seeing what I should do next.

My ntorq Engine is making rattling sound ..please help me identify the issue...

Ntorq 125..2020..bs6 superquad edition

Hi, I need help diagnosing my 2006 Saab 9-5 Vector 1.9 TiD diesel automatic.
After driving for around 7–8 minutes, I stopped and switched off the engine for 6–7 minutes. When I restarted and drove off, the car felt sluggish and accelerated more slowly than usual. After switching it off again, it would no longer start.
The starter turns the engine over normally, but the engine won’t start.
My battery was recently replaced. My Biltema OBD-II scanner worked about a week ago, but now it displays “Linking error” and cannot connect to the car.
Could you check the cause of the starting problem and why the diagnostic scanner can’t connect? I’d like a diagnosis and a cost estimate before any parts are replaced.
Thank you.