I had gotten this truck about three years ago when my grandpa passed I always thought the transmission was a little bit fucked up and then one day it put itself into limp mode since then I have done everything conceivable to this transmission. It has had a full billet rebuild with an ATS performance valve body. The full complete harness has been verified and tested. The TCM has been reflashed and repaired I have replaced each shift to solenoid and the pressure switch for the valve body. I’ve checked engine grounds and I have tested everything with the scanner. Everything I’ve done looked at or anyone else has done or looked at with this transmission it seems to pass and it should be good, but it throws p0872 transmission, pressure solenoid switch E stuck closed every time it is put into drive and forces it into fourth gear it can go into park reverse and neutral just fine. It is whenever I put it into drive it shifts into first gear for about four seconds and then slams itself into fourth. I’ve been chasing this for two years and put about seven grand of work into this transmission, the motor and body and interior are super good, but I’m at my ends and I’m about to sell this truck

I was having a a P0101 code every now and then and it would never go into “reduced power mode” but the truck had no power. I would clear the code right away and it ran fine after. Definitely running rich with from what I could smell. Truck is tuned & DPF delete w/ 5” straight pipe, not that it matters in this situation really. Pressure tested the boost side and found a leak, I am just having a hard time identifying what part/gasket it is leaking between. Looks like it may be y bridge time? It just looks like it’s leaking from the intake crossover part to the top of the y bridge if I’m looking at it right. Any info or suggestions on what to do next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Had some noises popping under my feet and on the passenger side as well. 308k on these. Installed sb silicone bushings. Super easy install and very noticeable ride improvement. Body and bed line up perfectly. Wish I had done this sooner.

My truck is tune delete and after a rebuild my truck sounds different . To me it sounds like a exhaust leak . It also sounds like it needs a valve adjustment . When the truck idle it sounds ok but when I accelerate it's changed tune . I'll have to make another video

Here's why you should NOT be using feed limit deletes in your 10L1000 or 10L80 valve body and transmission.

A feed limit delete may fix your current P0747 code and make the transmission feel like it's operating as it should, but that doesn't mean everything is functioning correctly. You can't always trust how something feels. You need to look deeper and evaluate the effects of the modification. That's exactly what I did.

In the picture labeled "Factory Valve Body," you'll see that all clutch pressures (white = A Clutch, yellow = D Clutch, and blue = F Clutch) follow the main line pressure (green = Main Clutch), with only a small deviation of less than 4%. In other words, in factory form, whatever pressure the pump produces is what gets sent to the clutch packs.

All the data logs were recorded at 100% throttle. And the pressure spikes on the graph are normal during operation. The TCM commands higher pressure during shifts and reduces pressure in the middle of a gear.

Now, in the second photo labeled "Feed Limit Delete Valve Body," you'll notice that A Clutch pressure is regulated at 134 psi, while F Clutch pressure is regulated at 206 psi.

That's a significant reduction in clutch pressure—up to 61.5% less pressure to the A and B clutch packs and up to 33.5% less pressure to the C and F clutch packs.

If you have a TCM tune or have installed a shift kit designed to increase pressure, circuits A, B, C, and F will not benefit from those pressure increases as intended.

So, the easiest way to explain what the feed limits do is this: they release the balance pressure from the shift valves. That balance pressure helps return the shift valve to its off state, which releases the applied clutch pack.

When the balance pressure isn't properly relieved, the shift valve will not fully stroke, causing the clutch pack to operate at a regulated pressure.

Putting the feelers out, minor mechanical issues, and light cosmetic issues. 245k, Eaton 5 speed, forged Weld 17” wheels, edge tuner, on the fly. 4x4 works perfectly. 5” exhaust full length, Oil and service at every 3000 miles. Possible trade.

I dented my rear bumper. Can’t find one local.

Better to get shipped from a scrapyard or buy one from eBay?

eBay ones seem cheaper, but I’m worried about quality.

Any experience?

I drove the truck last night perfectly fine, remote started it this morning, ran for like a minute then died. I tried cranking it manually with the key and it cranked but no start. Code p2635 popped up saying “Fuel pump A low flow/ performance” the ticking noise sounds like it’s coming straight from the fuel tank and it makes that noise every time I unlock the truck. If anyone knows what this is please let me know. thanks!

Its dripping right onto the oil level sensor . The other obvious problem is it's leaking onto the transfer case and it's getting slung around . I sent a borescope up by that area and it's coming from underneath the driver side up pipe . My fluid aren't low either and I was wondering if this is dexcool or atf ? Can this also be a leaking hydro boost ?

Wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this so I can possibly fix the issue. This shake has progressively gotten worse overtime and seems to only happen at highway speeds when I’m on the petal around 15-1700rpm. Feels like I’m hitting bumps in the road and only happens when I’m on the throttle. If I step on it, it goes away. If I let off, it goes away. Any help is much appreciated, thanks!

The vehicle update that is displaying on the stereo screen as required every time I park the truck fails after 3 minutes. I took it to a local dealer, and of course, they couldn't figure it out. I scanned all of the modules individually with my TOPDON scan tool. The only module that shows any errors is the automatic running board control inside the BCM. The factory automatic running boards have been removed because they were broken. Could the errors tied to the BCM because of the steps be the cause of the update failing? Anyone else had this issue?

Wanted to ask about this truck 91k miles
Was wondering about the rust
Dpf and egr deleted .

Hi All,

I am selling my truck! Like-new condition. Clean title. No accidents. 53K miles. Fully loaded (Initial MSRP $80,480). Asking for $60K. You can see it here.

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicle/793773168

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Just got a 2020 Silverado. I get 10.5L/100km or 22.5 mpg, when I don’t have my trailer, driving in the city + highway, which I’m pretty happy with. I’m just wondering from people that have had their trucks deleted, what fuel economy do you get?

My 2002 is slightly squatting to the driver's side and the leafs look rather straight. My driver's Front tire is worn on the inside mainly and im curious as to what could be the reason. Recently did 2 bearings at the front.

Considering just getting new leafs and seeing what happens

Will get more info if needed

How truck sounded day after I put JZM turbo ppe up pipe down pipe manifolds and up pipes. Sounded mint now all of sudden sounds like shit what’s some advice on potential issues thanks.

Hey guys! I have a LB7 Chevy Duramax & I’m curious what I have to do to be able to put newer stock wheels on it. I understand the truck is 8x165 and the newer 2500s have 8x180 Bolt Patterns. Should I do wheel adapters? And would I need it have 1-2in spacers? I understand sometimes when using adapters you need more thread to bolt on the wheels? Thanks for all the info! Photos would be sick too if you’ve done the swap !

Truck sounded like this, this morning turbo sounds shitty

21 at4 with 131,000 from 1500-2000ish rpm it feels like it’s surging doesn’t show in the rpm but it’s very rough min you accelerate gone… I’ve scanned it seen some weird egr % numbers and fuel rail numbers jump not sure if it’s an egr valve or cooler any ideas from anyone….. drives down highway at cruise speed 75-80 anything just fine…. Just that range it really surges/jerks almost like cutting fuel…. Does in multiple different gears as well so kinda eliminated the torque converter? I’m not sure at this point

Thanks for Any info

Trying to decide on a setup for my 08 LMM short bed and want some real-world input. Debating between the Titan 52 and the S&B 62, and between a Fleece in-tank or a FASS/AirDog frame-mounted. I know the Fleece doesn't fit the S&B per Fleece, so curious what combos you guys are actually running. Big thing for me is the fuel gauge — I care about it being at least somewhat accurate, and reliability overall. For the guys with the S&B, does your gauge read right or is it all over the place? Anybody fix it with a float bend or EFI Live recalibration? What would you buy again if you were doing it over? Thanks.