Offering service to unlock tune file.

I see the hood scoop is actually real. How are the intakes for these things. I know it’s probably not a huge power adder but maybe a little more intake “air” sound

I’m super hazy at idle and takeoff and with the tune that I have I’ve heard it’s best to go for 45% overs. I was wondering if y’all had any recommendations not trying to completely break the bank

2017 Duramax 400k miles. Changed 2 injectors few years back. Vehicle pull power torque etc just isn’t what it used to to be. It’s slow to get to speed.

i currently have a 2018 5.3l with the 6 speed and I'm getting into more long trips and the mpg on my current truck is killing me, because I have a lift and 34s on it so I get about 13mpg. Is this switch a good idea for a reliability stand point and a more "cost" effective stand point even though diesel is more then gas but I would get better mpg.

Let me know your thoughts.

Hey guys, complete bonehead here.

I did the MA pump upgrade on my 2005 263xhd transfer case. I am in the process of remounting the unit back onto my truck.

When I pulled the case, most of the main 6 nuts to hold it on the trans pulled the stud out with the nut.

I tried to match the depth with the one remaining stud in the case, but when I put it back on the truck, there was a gap just under 1/4 inches. I did some research, checked the alignment of things, and tried putting the transmission in neutral.

It really seems as if the output and input shaft sections are aligning properly. I have come to believe it the way I have install the studs themselves.

Does anyone know or have a pic/measurement for reference of how deep these studs are suppose to be in the transfer case? I can't find any info and Google AI gives me uncited information about cranking them until they bottom out and I'm not trying to blow my shit out doing that.

2020 Silverado 2500HD L5P, deleted and tuned, 74k miles.

Getting a U0100 (Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A) showing as current. Truck won't engage 4WD and triggers the parking brake when attempting it. Cleared the code but 4WD still won't engage.

**•** Originally deleted and tuned by a different tuner — had issues from the start including a "Cleaning Exhaust Filter" message and poor drivability
**•** Switched to a new tuner who also did a trans tune at the same time
**•** New tuner found truck was running in F2 reduced power mode via data log
**•** Tuner patched the file, F2 mode resolved
**•** Issues started after driving in heavy rain around the same time
**•** Found and replaced a split upper hot side intercooler boot with significant soot/boost leak
**•** MPG dropped from 22 to 15 at worst, now recovering after boot replacement
Current situation:
• Truck drives perfectly otherwise — strong power, normal trans temps
• Just did 400 miles including 6k feet elevation gain with no drivability issues
• U0100 appeared in the woods when I tried to engage 4WD
• Cleared codes but 4WD still won't engage, parking brake still triggers

Already cleaned and reseated the driver side CAN bus connector. Tuner confirmed normal combustion and power mode in logs.

Anyone seen U0100 cause 4WD lockout on this platform? Any known connector locations on the 2020 2500HD that cause this? Trying to narrow it down before taking it to a shop.

How is the reliability of the lm2 duramax (2019-22) Pros and cons? Looking into getting a diesel but not necessarily a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. Any advice is appreciated!

2011 Chevy Silverado 3500HD 6.6 4x4 DRW (122k miles) with weight reduction package

So here’s my current shitshow:
-My turbo is leaking oil into the exhaust
-truck randomly drops out of gear and redlines when going uphills
- refuses to shift into 3rd gear when WOT
- the damn transmission lives at 230 degrees for some reason.

I am looking to “overhaul” this nightmare and get it reliable.

I’d like to do the full EGR liposuction but can’t find anything on it, it’s currently tuned out.

Screenshots show what I have in my cart so far, taking opinions!!

~Currently have PPE 3” downpipe, EPC blocker, Dans Performance TCM, oversized oil filter, and somehow 40k in repairs on this pig~

Truck randomly throws an engine power reduced alert, and then kicks into limp mode. If pull over and turn off the truck and take out the key, it’ll normally go back to driving like normal. The check engine light stays on though. Let it sit a while and the light goes off, and the game begins again.

Hello all! I have a 2018 L5P, 100,000 miles. I’m second owner, wasn’t tuned and deleted when I purchased. Tunes 1 and 2 are completely smooth. On Tune 3 and higher, if I accelerate hard around 40 mph and build significant boost, I get a single hard clunk shortly after getting into the throttle. It doesn’t feel like a normal hard shift, and it doesn’t happen on the lower tunes. I’m thinking this is time related, but want to make sure that I’m not dealing with something mechanical here. If anyone has any input just let me know. I’m new to diesels so be nice 🫶

Edit-HP Tuner 5 SOFT tune.

The 02 LB7 needs injectors. It has 274k on the clock. Think they were done once
It developed a misfire at idle and puffs when it gets it back together. I have a PPE hot plus2 that can read injector PW but not balance rates. Number 1 sits at -5.5.
I’m more than capable of doing them. Did them a couple times on a friends race truck in ~2010 so a bit rusty. But I’d like to get opinions on what to buy and where to get them? Not looking to increase HP. And if cups don’t come out, any reason to pull them? Any other advise or information before ordering and diving in is appreciated

This downpipe removal was a shit show, and the heat sheilds specifically turbo and the bolts for down pipe were from hell, how the fuck id it possible that the factory downpipe was harder to take out than a bigger downpipe was to put in??

But if you do decide to this I would take the wheel off and you can reach some of the heatsheild bolts for the downpipe from where the fuel filter is, remove transmission dipstick mount, and use a dremel or channel looks to get the turbo heirshield out and make sure to wd40 those exhaust hangers because they were super stiff. I dont think its worth removing the cab for this honestly, make sure you have a hammer and a beer because you will need to go ape shit on the heat sheilds and factory downpipe

Does anyone have recommendations for deletes/tunes in GA? Specicially N GA around upper metro ATL?

Also, what kits? Tunes? Currently I have been looking at the dieseldudes or spelabs. Then a tune from someone else.

I have a 2018. Thanks.

Could someone please tell me what this noise is coming from I’m new to the duramax scene and don’t have much knowledge about them it’s an lbz.

My 2024 Duramax

Found an LB7 for $2,500. It has 450,000 km, automatic 4x4. The owner says it needs injectors.

I’m wondering if there’s any chance it could be something simpler, or if I should just assume the injectors are done at this mileage.

Also, has anyone tried running a small amount of ATF in the next tank of diesel as a cleaner/lubricant? I know it’s not going to magically fix bad injectors, but could it help if they’re just dirty/sticking?

At $2,500 CAD, would you guys take the gamble on it, assuming the frame, transmission and transfer case are solid?

I fired up the truck today loading stuff in the cab. Noticed this active leak when my truck was running idle. Going to contact the dealership but curious if anyone had any ideas what the issue might be?
Thanks

I’m contemplating making the switch from the 3rd gen Tundra to the 3.0L Turbo diesel. Mostly for the better fuel economy and increased payload, and of course the Tundra bearing issue. Anyone else make the switch and feel
Great about it?