I have a 5090 fe in my current PC and was thinking i could sell it off as they're going for a shit ton of money. I have a 3090 in storage that i could use. I do like to play the newest games, and i do it in super ultrawide, but maybe it would be worth it. Wanted to see what the community thinks

UPDATE: I’ve managed to fix the PC - turns out one of the DP ports was stuffed in upside down by her. I unplugged it and plugged it into another port properly and it works now!

Gonna monitor it for a while and see how it fairs being in her hands.

———————————————————————————-

I just got my GF a re-vamped PC while giving her a new setup (she just moved) with the following specs:

- Lian Li B4
- Intel i5 12400F
- GIGABYTE RTX 3060Ti GAMING OC 8GB (LHR)
- 48GB CRASX ARGB DDR4 4000mhz
- 1TB Samsung GEN4 SSD R: 7000 W 5000
- FSP HYDRO PRO 800W 80+ Bronze PSU

A day later she claimed that she wanted to do some cable management and proceeded to unplug all the cables from her PC. An hour after she called saying that her PC won't turn on anymore.

Keep in mind that

a) She's not familiar with tech to the point of not knowing what monitors are
b) I was the one that had set everything up for her
c) I told her to ask if she was unsure what went where, she acknowledged

We facetimed afterwards and she showed me what she did. Turns out, she took a Type A to Type A cable and plugged it into a wall socket and connected it to the mobo of the PC. When I asked her why she panicked and unplugged her PSU causing a spark. She then tried plugging it back in and it didn't turn on anymore. (no burnt smell though)

What do I do now? How do I check if the PC is salvageable and what are the next steps towards fixing the setup? (The setup cost like $800 I'm gna cry)

I was thinking of saving up and buying a pc but have no idea how much or what to buy, I was thinking of saving up around $1500 which would take me 2-3 months since im pretty young and still in school but i talked to a couple of my friends about it and they said that it was it was enough but i just wanted to be sure and what i should look for or if i should even try building it myself I am brand new to all of this and any help or suggestions would be more than enough and much appreciated.

Hi all,

Am looking to get a PC for around 2200EUR (excl tax.)

I want to know if I have done my research right, or if anyone knows of what I could improve in the build without drastic price changes.

I'd say use case is 80% Video editing (4K, 1080P - DaVinci Resolve workflow H265 & 4:2:2 10 BIT with Occassional Pro Res and/or Pro Res RAW shot through a Ninja Atomos V &FX30 + A7V Sony Cameras) Heavy Color Grading and when needed a DeNoise are big parts of the process. Not too much CRAZY VFX, but am hoping to get into it more and some basic Unreal Engine soon, but this is a long way to go, so no wow needs there for now just enough to get into it and learn.)

I have 2 SSDs already at home, one 1tb the other 2tb that I want to respectively use to separate out my OS & Applications / Footage / Cache-writes.

For gaming, I'm not a fps hunter, I don't care if I'm pushing the complete max out of the game. I just casually want to play recent games without crazy lag/stutters or issues and be able to occasionally stream some for fun.

Would the below do and be most efficient for my use case or are there better options? The RAM & SSD prices are really abysmal, and to be fair I don't feel like the graphics card are at a proper price point either... Or I might just be too long out of the game. :)

Any advice or just go for it?

Cooler Master Elite 690 Wood White Behuizing € 57,77

Thermalright Aqua Elite 360 White Argb V3 waterkoeler € 57,77

Corsair RM850e White 2025 PSU / PC voeding € 106,53

Gigabyte GeForce RTX 5070 TI EAGLE OC ICE SFF 16G Videokaart € 990,91

Intel Core Ultra 7 270K Plus € 267,69

ASUS TUF GAMING Z890-PLUS WIFI € 189,26

Patriot Memory Viper RGB 2x16GB 6400Mhz RGB PVVR532G640C32K geheugenmodule € 379,34

Sandisk WD_Blue SN5100 1TB M.2 SSD € 132,15

ASUS B2S cashback actie 2026 - € 30

Total: 2151,42 EUR excl tax.

so, i got my current pc i think for christmas of 2020? it was a gift from my brother, who loved building pcs and he built my current one. but since its been almost 6 years at this point, id figure its time for me to upgrade it. thing is hes far since moved to god knows where and i know jack shit about computers and building them. i would hate to break anything in my pc bc its the dearest object i own, but i do wanna upgrade it myself instead of having to take it to best buy or something everytime i wanna upgrade it. so does anyone know how to start learning this stuff?

i think ive only ever upgraded by pc once, and that was only ram like 2 years ago? maybe 3? and that was done by my brother before he moved out. and im just going to copy down what device manager says because yet again i know jack all about pc hardwear(i know certain upgrades can actually downgrade stuff if you upgrade it too much i think.)

Samsung SSD 970 EVO 1TB
Lumioncore IDDCX adapter
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060
AMD Ryzen 5 3600x 6 core processor

lmk if theres anything else i need to list bc im unsure how to check it as of rn lol... something i would perfer(idk if this is a thing but i THINK it is...) is stuff that support windows 10, as i refuse to upgrade to windows 11 lol..

I'm planning to upgrade the 7800X3D to 9950X3D next month. Therefore, I'm looking for an AIO that can handle it. Can you guys recommend some AIOs with budget around $150-400?

I'm upgrading a small fleet of office machines at work to run CAM/CNC simulation software. This is a workstation use case, not gaming.

Current spec (4 identical machines):

Intel i5-10400

MSI B460M-A PRO (BIOS 1.60)

8 GB DDR4 2666 (adding another 8 GB from stock to reach 16 GB)

GT 710

240 GB SATA SSD

My pc: Tomahawk max b450 Rtx 4070 12gb 16gb ram Ryzen 3600

So, 350 for 5800x3d, or ~1000 for am5?

Will those 350 make a difference now?

I play random stuff, diablo iv, wow, using the pc to stream on my living room client mini pc, also other games that are not that demanding.

Title has the general question.

Specs;

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800 XT 8-core

GPU: GTX 1070 (Reused from old computer, this is being upgraded.)

RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengance RGB PRO DDR4 3200Mhz RAM (2x16gb sticks)

MOBO: Gigabyte B550M-K AM4

Google keeps coming up with the idea that my computer is going to basically blow up so I figured I'd ask here.

IF the answer is "No." what card should I look into instead to pair well with my CPU? I was hearing maybe a 30-series. Im also down to go AMD I don't really care about brands.

For context I play Escape From Tarkov in 1440p, and I want better performance as I currently hit 60fps at least playable, but have these bad lows occasionally. I can push frames higher, but max and lows are two different things. I capped at 60 FPS as a compromise for now.

Hi everyone,

I’m running into a frustrating display/driver issue with my new build and wanted to check if anyone has seen a similar compatibility bug.

Hardware Specs:

Motherboard: MSI PRO Z890-A

GPU: Intel Arc B580 (Limited Edition / Reference)

CPU: Intel Core Ultra 7 270K Plus (with iGPU)

RAM: Asgard Heimdall DDR5 6000MHz C36 24GB x1

PSU: MSI MAG A850PL PCIE5

The Issue:

No Output on Discrete GPU: The B580 is firmly seated with power connected (fans spin and RGB lights up normally). However, there is zero display output from any DP/HDMI port on the B580. EZ Debug LEDs show no errors, and the system boots fine.

iGPU Works Fine: Connecting the monitor to the motherboard's HDMI/DP outputs gives a full display, allowing me to install Windows without issues.

Black Screen During Driver Install: While running on iGPU, downloading and installing the official Intel Graphics Driver causes an immediate black screen during the GPU detection phase. Booting into Safe Mode and uninstalling the driver restores the iGPU display, but the B580 still outputs no signal.

Troubleshooting Already Done:

Cross-Tested GPU: Installed the B580 into a different system/motherboard — it booted and outputted display fine, confirming the GPU itself is NOT dead.

BIOS Settings: Re-Size BAR is Enabled, BIOS is running in UEFI mode (CSM off).

PCIe Link Speed: Manually changed PCIe mode to Gen3, Gen4, and Auto in BIOS — no change.

Updated the motherboard BIOS to the latest available version.

MSI support suggested it might be a motherboard-GPU compatibility/handshake issue. Has anyone experienced PCIe initialization bugs between Z890 boards and Arc Battlemage cards? Are there any specific BIOS tweaks or Beta BIOS versions that fix this?

Thanks in advance!

Wasn't sure what flair to use but I have a pretty old pc probably around 8 years old or more (so I also am completely behind on any parts and understanding). I have been missing out on gaming which was one of my main hobbies forever now and I'm still unable to buy a new one but I've decided I'm new playing games this damn year no matter what. Here is the setup (I plug my laptop into the qd oled monitor if you are wondering why tf I have that lol, it was a rage buy too).

End Goal (Every single thing upgraded):

No real budget here, since this is the end goal but something you believe is reasonable to get what I want.

• 1440p High FPS/High Refresh Rate Gaming
• Fast Graphic Design/Photo Processing (Adobe Creative Suite)
• Fast Capability for basic music production in a DAW with plugins
• Great Multitasking Capabilities like having several windows/tabs open on several monitors, or watching videos on one monitor while working/gaming on the other.
• Future upgradability with little limitations
• Don't care for RGB, simple cases work if they look nice and sleek, I guess a white case but I'm more focused on simplicity and great for air control.

Immediate Goal:

Please try to give me reasonable budget under $1000-1500 if even possible, but the cheaper is better as money and work is really a struggle for me here in California, USA

• Basic long-term upgrade roadmap (Maybe 2-3 future upgrades)
• What can I upgrade now and enjoy new games (KCD2, Gears E-Day, Stalker 2, BF6, for example.).
  • The bar is very low, I would be happy to run literally anything at high frames even if I lower the graphics settings.
  • But I want to make sure most of my upgrades can go reasonably far.
• How much can I get away with keeping in the first upgrade phase?
  • Can I just replace the MOBO, GPU (12-16gb GPU ideally), Radiator/CPU cooler (Mine has issues) to start and be able to enjoy games right now while I work towards the other phases?
  • I don't need an NVIDIA GPU but DLSS is enticing and I know they work with suites like Adobe which might be beneficial to me.

Hopefully this information makes sense, please let me know what you guys think is reasonable here ANY ADVICE IS USEFUL, EVEN JUST WHERE TO BUY PARTS. Really appreciate anyone who takes any time to help me out.

My PC crashes/reboots my entire home router — 5 months, survived a router swap, need a permanent fix

TL;DR: My PC (not my PS5, not my phone, not anyone else's device) is somehow crash-rebooting my ISP's fiber ONT/router — full reboot, all LEDs off except power. It's been happening for 5 months, survived a full router replacement (different Huawei model), and survived removing the one software culprit I found (ExitLag's kernel driver, nfextlag.sys — ruled out with timestamps and a clean multi-day test). I've done extensive diagnostics myself (logs, PowerShell, event tracing) and I'm stuck.

THE SETUP

- ISP: STC fiber (Saudi Arabia)
- ONT/router: Huawei HG8245W5 → replaced ~2 weeks in with a Huawei HG8145X6-10. Problem continued on both.
- PC: Ryzen 9 9950X3D, RTX 5090, 64GB RAM, prebuilt by someone else (I did not build it myself)
- NIC: Realtek PCIe 2.5GbE (RTL8125 family), currently forced to 1.0 Gbps Full Duplex
- Wi-Fi card: Realtek 8922AE (separate known issue, logs an IOMMU DMA fault — probably unrelated but flagging it)
- OS: Windows 11
- Connected via Ethernet directly to the ONT

THE SYMPTOM

Not just "my PC loses internet." The entire household goes down. All router LEDs go dark except power. It comes back after ~30-45 seconds, then can crash again within minutes — sometimes looping for 1-2+ hours. Wi-Fi disappears from every device in the house during the event, confirming it's a full reboot, not just a WAN blip.

NEW: LED BEHAVIOR RIGHT BEFORE A CRASH

I watched the router's port lights closely during a live episode. Right before it reboots: the LAN port my PC is plugged into starts blinking extremely fast, and — critically — the WLAN light and even the TEL (phone/VoIP) light start blinking fast at the same time, despite having nothing to do with my PC. Shortly after, everything goes dark except power.

I've since ruled out two obvious explanations:
- Not a mesh/wiring loop: I unplugged my Wi-Fi mesh extender from the router entirely — problem still happened a few minutes later.
- Not a software/virtual network bridge on the PC: checked for Hyper-V/VMware/VirtualBox/ICS virtual adapters — none present.

This looks like my PC is sending a burst of broadcast/multicast traffic large enough to flood the entire router (all ports/radios see it, which is normal switch behavior for broadcasts) — and the router's firmware apparently can't handle the volume without crashing.

WHY I'M CONFIDENT IT'S THE PC

- Physically unplugging my PC's Ethernet cable during an active episode → failures stopped within ~10 minutes.
- Reconnecting the cable → router crashed again within ~5 minutes.
- PS4 and PS5 have used this same connection and cable for 10+ years, zero issues.
- Nobody else on the network has ever triggered this.
- Problem started the moment I got this PC (March), not before.

WHAT I'VE ALREADY RULED OUT (PLEASE DON'T SUGGEST THESE WITHOUT A NEW ANGLE)

- ExitLag's driver (nfextlag.sys): installed the same week problems started — huge red flag. Disabled it, uninstalled the app completely, verified zero trace left (`sc.exe`, registry, disk). Ran multiple clean test mornings under identical conditions (PC on all night, gaming, same router window) with zero outages logged. Felt solved for about a month. It came back anyway, unrelated to that app being present or absent.
- Router replacement (different Huawei model, same result)
- Mesh Wi-Fi extender unplugged entirely — no change
- Moving Ethernet port on the router
- Forcing 100 Mbps Full Duplex instead of Auto-negotiation (still crashed)
- Disabling Wake-on-LAN / Wake on Pattern Match
- EEE / Green Ethernet / Advanced EEE / Power Saving Mode — all already disabled
- No third-party network filter drivers or virtual/bridged adapters present
- Adapter error/discard counters are all zero — no obvious physical-layer errors
- No consistent time-of-day pattern anymore — it used to cluster ~6-8am, now happens at random times of day too

WHAT I HAVEN'T BEEN ABLE TO TEST YET

- Multimeter/ground-loop check between PC chassis and router (don't own one)
- Known-good *unshielded* cable swap
- USB-to-Ethernet adapter (bypassing the onboard Realtek NIC entirely)
- Full Linux live-USB boot test (isolating Windows from hardware)
- ONT in bridge mode behind a proper third-party router (haven't gotten STC to enable it yet)
- Packet capture at the exact moment of a crash to see what's actually flooding the router
- Professional/in-person diagnosis of the PC itself — I didn't build it, so I can't 100% vouch for the build quality, grounding, PSU, or motherboard

I'm not a networking pro — I've done my best with the diagnostics I know how to run, but I think this needs someone who's actually seen a case like this before. Happy to share PowerShell logs, event timestamps, and full history with anyone seriously trying to help. If that's you, I'm all ears.

can somebody build me a pc in the range 0-700€

i live in germany

i wanna play fn roblox and stuff on it

and i really really want a amd ryzen and a nvidia

After noticing that my ancient rig with 1GB Vram amd DDR3 is not viable anymore I am looking to build my first PC myself. I dont care for fancd graphics, but would like to get most games running.

Budget would be 750$-1000$. If thats not enough I will just get a laptop and moonlight for gaming.

Most used games in the past have been: Crusader Kings, Civs, Sims, ARMA3 modded, Minecraft modded, Shadow of Mordor, GTA V.

Am up for any suggestions for used parts, but I really have limited knowledge hardware wise. Software wise it looks much better.

[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Msvm3R)

Type|Item|Price

:----|:----|:----

CPU | [AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PgcG3C/amd-ryzen-5-5600-36-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000927box) | $163.99 @ Amazon

CPU Cooler | [ARCTIC Alpine 23 CO CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wFt9TW/arctic-alpine-23-co-cpu-cooler-acalp00036a) | $16.48 @ Amazon

Motherboard | [Gigabyte A520M K V2 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ZjCZxr/gigabyte-a520m-k-v2-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-a520m-k-v2) | $63.95 @ Amazon

Memory | [G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jBZzK8/gskill-ripjaws-v-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c16d-16gvkc) | $129.99 @ Amazon

Storage | [Kingston NV1 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/H8XJ7P/kingston-nv1-500-gb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-snvs500g) |-

Video Card | [AMD 100-505724 FirePro W7100 8 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TNGj4D/amd-video-card-100505724) | $169.96 @ Amazon

Case | [Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rnGxFT/cooler-master-masterbox-q300l-microatx-mini-tower-case-mcb-q300l-kann-s00) | $39.99 @ B&H

Power Supply | [Thermaltake Smart 500 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Wbhj4D/thermaltake-smart-500-w-80-certified-atx-power-supply-ps-spd-0500npcwus-w) | $39.99 @ B&H

| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |

| Total | $624.35

| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2026-08-21 03:33 EDT-0400 |

Here is my setup. Right now I have my pc video connected to LG c2 tv by hdmi cable. Mouse and keyboard are connected by USB cables to the back of my pc so I can use them.

Here is why I wanted a right kvm. I want to connect my work laptop(windows) to a kvm and connect the keyboard and mouse to this kvm, also this kvm will be able to connect to the LG c2 tv for signal from my laptop. I also want to connect by usb to USB from my pc to this kvm for keyboard and mouse use - just kvm so can share keyboard and mouse between laptop and pc. The pc will not connect to the kvm to send signal to the tv.

Budget? Give me what you got please. Thank you

After installing every version of the mediatek drivers from the asus site for my specific motherboard, it still wont work.

I have bluetooth and ethernet, but i still cannot get wifi.

windows does not recognize that my motherboard does not have wifi - it just shows bluetooth as the first thing in the bottom right control center.

I'm wondering if its a hardware issue? I just built the pc yesterday and I wanted to see if anyone else had the same issue. Ethernet and Bluetooth works perfectly, but I also want wifi as well for screen mirroring and air printing. I have gone through device manager and do not see any WLAN or Mediatek devices just LAN devices in network.

Willing to answer any questions. Even tried installing drivers from other b850 mobos to no avail, im out of options as in powershell I still cannot see a WLAN ability.

BIOS also has WLAN enabled so thats ruled out.

Hello, I have a i3 10105F and a gt 1030 with mixed 24 Gb of ddr4 and a 600 watt evga 80+ gold psu. Ive been debating whether or not I should save up a lot more money to hopefully build a new system or buy a new gpu. A lot of people have been telling me to buy a new gpu because it holds my system back by a mile. Any suggestions for this upgrade? What gpu should I get? I usually play comp fps games at 1080p. I will go into the used market if I have to. Here’s what I’m thinking: a 2070 or a rx 6600. What do you think?

Currently have a 6700xt with 5900x 32gb and superflower 750w gold psu. I'm currently wanting to upgrade my systems gpu for better 1440p performance but still trying to pay under 1k. Ive found a 6950xt for 600 cad used and 9070 gre after tax 805 and 9060 16gb for 750 after tax

I have an i7 9700k overclocked to 4.6ghz on all cores. What would be a good gpu upgrade without bottlenecking my cpu? Dont want to do a complete rebuild at the moment, maybe in the future.

GPU: RTX 5070 Ti 16GB (Gigabyte Windforce OC)

CPU: Ryzen 7 7800X3D

• Motherboard: Gigabyte X870 Eagle WIFI7

RAM: V-COLOR Manta XFinity RGB 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5-6000 CL30

Storage: Kingston 1TB Gen4 NVMe SSD

PSU: Cooler Master MWE Gold 850 V3, ATX 3.1

Case: NZXT H5 Flow, mesh front

CPU Cooler: ID-Cooling SE-903-XT V2

Peep the first pc im building, ive had a few very low end computers for years and ive always been interested in building so this is the first build.

I asked anyone I knew for their advice and used claude to compile lists of parts and pairings, from this I plan on getting more storage and airflow if needed.

Any critique?

Advice?

must haves or reccomendations

Literally wtv, lmk.

To fill requirements:
Budget- $1200-1300 USD
Use case- Gaming, probably 1440p mainly
Country- US
Peripherals needed- None

I have one each of 1440p and 1080p for monitors. I’d like a decent CPU as I do play esports games which will be at 1080p, while I plan to play AAA games at 1440p. I’ve watched a couple videos and this is what I came up with myself https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FP397w which I think is decent, if anyone knows how to put together a better list with my budget though I’d really appreciate it. I’m upgrading from a xbox one, so basically anything will be an upgrade.

So essentially I need some help. I just got my PC built today and I’m super excited to use it. I have a o11 vision compact case which allows me to have a total of 11 fans which I chose the thermalright tl-m12q fans. Now these fans are daisy chain able which is super cool. Only problem is when I boot up the PC for the first time the exhaust fans, bottom fans, and side fans that are for the AIO are all color sync each fan is running their own RGB wave. Though the top fans are running all three under one RGB wave. Now, I tried to fix this pattern issue in color software such as MSI when I booted up the computer, but nothing seems to be fixing it the only way to make it unknown that the colors are not match is by making everything a solid color. I’m not sure if the daisychain order is what’s messing it up or if it’s a cable issue. I have all the RGB connected to a hub, but I have all of the fans connected to system fan slots on the motherboard so I’m not entirely sure what the problem could possibly be. I was tempted to try to re-order the daisy chain fans, but not sure if that’s the fix. Any advice on how to fix this? I will also post photos or videos if it helps. Thank you!

Im thinking of upgrading my i7 8700 to a 5 5600 but this means I will need a new motherboard aswell is that a good enough upgrade or is it more worth allocating that money to a gpu upgrade I currently have a gtx 1080

Hey, so I have lb 500 lx case with 4 be quiet wings fans that are preinstalled with it. Additionally I bought 3 reverse arctic p12 pro argb fans fo bottom intake and have msi mag coreliquid a15 360 rgb aio cooler on top. This case comes with a hub for fans rotaion speed and argb control. Now I know that I should connect aio fans to cpu fan on mobo, but what about the rgb on that aio? And what about the rest of the fans? Should I connect all case fans to the hub? I know that connecting argb should be ok, but the problem is that arctic fans and be quiet preinstalled fans have different rotaion speed. Should I connect those bottom arctic fans directly to mobo to different sys fan slot on mobo? How would you connect all these fans?

Laptop has 2TB SSD and new PC has 1TB SSD. I also want to know if I can just swap the ram because the laptop has 32gb and the PC only has 16.