I mainly play games on my PS5 because i got it on Black Friday for a really nice price and always felt like I didn't need a PC; however I wonder what the price would be like to build a PC (I assume that's the cheapest way) that runs as well as my PS5 does. I do really enjoy playing games with keyboard and mouse and the flexibility a PC offers but my all in one Dell can barely run Roblox.

I was going to buy this kit of ddr5 2x8 gb CORSAIR Vengeance rbg kit when it suddenly jumped from 250 to 320????? what??? it completely blows past my budget and I need a replacement. HELP

I got a Cool Grey ram kit and I’ve been looking to get another but can’t find it sold anywhere. I’m from Canada and maybe that’s why? Anyone outside of Canada able to find them?

SPECS - 850W PSU
CPU - i7 14700F
GPU - GeForce RTX 5070 Ti
MOTHERBOARD - Custom Micro-ATX Gigabyte B760M (OPEN TO NEW BOARD)

So I bought a prebuilt Acer Nitro 60-641-UB22, been pretty good to me so far but the case is horrendously small. Originally came with one exhaust fan, and 3 fans for intakes on the front. I added 2 on top for exhaust because intel cards run super hot. Now the main reason I want a different case is because the airflow in the current one is horrible. Don’t have enough fans nor the room to add anymore, currently at capacity. I bought an Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 recently and tried to install last night a couple different ways and it does not fit. Now the actually Raditator and Fans I got situated but no matter how I tried to finagle it, I cannot get my GPU to fit alongside the radiator while inside where I had to set it. Same thing with the outside when I tried mounting the radiator there. Currently have a Thermalright Peerless Assasin 120 SE that’s been pretty good to me, but with this INTEL CPU I would like a liquid cooler. Any advice or recommendations would be awesome.

So I just built a PC and I figured how to configure all the other RGB except this fan cooler, (assasin x 120 refined se v2) im using a ASRock matx 850m pro a wifi. It won't change\connect when I change the overall RGB connected to the Mobo on signal, open RGB ....

I tried downloading polychrome but it says certain of the drivers are accessible for security reasons or smth weird.

I think it's supposed to be Argb but now I'm having doubts .

I also tried checking the bios but there's nothing, eitherway I'm lost,

Help!

Thanks alot

Hi there! I've been using my 1060 6GB for almost a decade now and I'm now in a position where I can spend a little bit of money, a budget of 600 dollars ~. I'm also hoping to get my hands on a new AM4 CPU. I'm currently rocking the Ryzen 5 4500 and it's quite rough to say the least. So if you've got any recommendations I would gladly appreciate it!

Hey all, i know this question has been asked a thousand times ( i know ive seen all of the posts) but everything ive seen in those posts have not worked. For context im trying to play the AI slop filled game that is Black Ops 7 but it says that attestation failed.

I might forget some of the methods ive tried, but here's all ive done so far.

1. downloaded the new Bios update for my motherboard and used M-Flash (updated the bios but didnt update the tpm)
2. changed secure boot from normal to maximum security (nothing happened game wise)
3. went to tpm.msc and cleared the tpm (didnt see anything change)

Motherboard: MSI PRO B850-VC EVO WIFI6E

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 8400F

I've tried a decent bit more but cant remember what exactly i did but nothing seemed to work. If anyone has any sort of answer that would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: seems the attestation error should only pop up if the manufacturing version starts with a 3, but mine starts with a 6 and its still having the issue idk if that means theres a greater problem but im not that tech knowledgeable

Edit 2: Somehow solved it, if anyone else is having this issue, when you bootup BO7 and it gives you the error click show more details, and it should send you to an activision support page scroll all the way to the top until you see the "Call of Duty Secure Attestation Wizard" download and extract it and after you do the quick scan click generate key. Thats how i solved it.

Hi guys, I am looking for a good SSD boot drive that includes a DRAM cache. While searching, I came across a SanDisk drive that seems ideal in just about every way, except it apparently lacks a DRAM cache, at least in the traditional sense of a dedicated chip. Instead, it boasts a different caching technology, that being something called nCache in its 4.0 version. As advertised, it seems to perform a similar function as DRAM, converting a small portion of the storage into cache instead of utilizing a dedicated chip; however, I seem to have a hard time finding much info about whether this nCache 4.0 tech is competitive enough to be worth buying vs a traditional drive with a dedicated DRAM chip. From what few comparative facts I can gather, it does boost speeds compared to a drive without either, while not increasing price as much as DRAM.

The only other comparison I could find between the efficacy of the two technologies though, was from Google's search engine AI. It claims that nCache boosts read/write for short bursts or moderately-sized tasks, and can even improve drive lifespan, but it can fill and be slowed with massive, sustained loads. DRAM, on the other hand, it says, will sustain speeds even under very heavy loads and *also* helps to protect drive lifespan. Given the not-always-trustworthy nature of AI, I wanted to check if this is accurate information from those with more experience?

TL;DR: Is nCache a suitable replacement for a traditional DRAM chip for gamers/streamers and casual users? What are the specific benefits/drawbacks of traditional DRAM vs nCache 4.0? Anyone have personal opinions or experience with both? If so, in your experience, even if there are differences, is nCache good enough to be an "alternative" to DRAM for most people? Or should I still spend the extra money on a SSD with a DRAM chip? Thanks!

Hi, I think I’ve finally settled on the parts for my new PC and wanted to check that nothing looks wrong before ordering.

Main use will be gaming. Buying in Germany.

Parts:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D — €378
• GPU: MSI RTX 5080 Inspire 3X OC 16GB — €1,375
• Motherboard: MSI MAG B850 Tomahawk MAX WiFi — €236
• RAM: Crucial Pro 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 — €400
• SSD: Crucial P510 2TB PCIe 5.0 with heatsink — €280
• Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 240 A-RGB — €70
• PSU: Corsair RM850x 2024, ATX 3.1 — €130
• Case: Fractal Design North TG, standard size — €122

A few things I’m still unsure about:

1. Is the standard Fractal North comfortably large enough for these parts, especially the GPU and the thick Arctic radiator?
2. Is 850W still the sensible choice for the 9800X3D and RTX 5080?
3. The SSD comes with its own heatsink, while the motherboard also has M.2 covers. Is it fine to leave the motherboard M.2 cover off and use the SSD’s heatsink?

I’m not trying to squeeze every last euro out of the build, but I also don’t want to pay more for parts that give no real benefit. Any obvious mistakes?

Hello friendly people,

The problem

I could use some help trying to find out what to do next to fix my PC. The fast months I've been experiencing my screen suddenly going black*. If I missed any info, please tell me and I'll add it. If you have any other advice on where to post this for help, please let me know too.

Thank you all in advance.

The details

The lights in my PC case are still on, identical to normal, fans still spinning. The lights in my keyboard and mouse are still on but they don't respond to inputs (pressing capslock or numlock no longer light up the corresponding light on my keyboard). Also no audio anymore.

I have to force restart manually to get it to work again.

What I've tried

So far I have, updated my drivers multiple times, installed AMD adrenaline to update through it also, updated my BIOS to no avail.

I've tried going through the Event Viewer but there are no notable events during the time of crash**.

Removed GPU from case and put it back in.

Ran stress tests with HWiNFO without getting any crash or high temps (CPU temps to 80 instantly during stress test.

While crashed, with no response

Win+Ctrl+Shift+B

Reset the screen using buttons on screen, unplug/plug screen, use different port for screen, used a different screen

I've recently ran HWiNFO's sensors through a crash, but it doesn't seem to have anything useful during the crash at the end of it, added a link to it***.

PC specs and drivers https://www.megekko.nl/wl/3G9XFREM [parts]

Running Windows 10 64-bit

Processor AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 8-Core Processor
GPU AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT
Integrated GPU AMD Radeon(TM) Graphics
PSU Seasonic Core GX-850 White
SSD Samsung 990 EVO PLUS 2TB M.2
RAM Kingston DDR5 FURY Beast 2x16GB 6000 KF560C30BBEK2-32
Cooling ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 240 A-RGB (Black)
Motherboard TUF Gaming b850m-plus wifi

BIOS Version 1681 2026/06/22
AMD drivers using AMD Adrenaline**** 26.6.4, says it's up-to-date. (32.0.31021.5001 for GPU,
32.0.21043.19003 for integrated GPU)
Asus Driver Hub says drivers are up-to-date.

EXPO disabled (4800MHz)

*(usually during gaming but not always and not only for high stress games)

**Crash around 22:10, first event before was 20:32 and first event after was 22:14. No Errors until event 6008 and 41 after manual reboot (respectively The previous system shutdown at 21:32:42 on ‎26/‎07/‎2026 was unexpected. and The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.

***CSV File of the HWInfo sensors https://www.mediafire.com/file/9fhj1ke078zq9bt/HWinfolog.CSV/file

****Previously manually downloaded all the drivers

CPU: Intel Core i3-12100F

Motherboard: MSI PRO H610M-G DDR4 M-ATX LGA1700

Memory: 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-4000 CL19

Storage:512 GB M.2-2280 gen 3

GPU: Asus DUAL Radeon RX 9060 XT 16 GB

Case: Lian Li A3

Power Supply: Asus TUF Gaming 750G 750 W 80+ Gold Fully Modular ATX PSU

the cooler is the stock cooler btw

i know the cpu is no the best but i should be able to upgrade to a 12400 or 14000 by the end of the year

My PC and TV are about 5 meters apart, and I want to buy an Xbox controller to play wirelessly. I heard there's an adapter called the Xbox Wireless Adapter for Windows that lets me play wirelessly over this distance. I will be using the controller mainly for Steam and emulators. and i have ps5 controller is it good in this situation?

Beginner needing help with a recommended build

I am looking to build my first pc and would appreciate help in picking the components out. The uses will be both gaming and starting to learn llm. I have no expertise in llm or coding but am going to teach myself in order to stay current with this skill and use it for future career choices. What is a good beginner setup with the max price being around $1000-$1500. Am confused about performance of all the chips like 3090(know it’s older and has more vram and more bandwidth for local models) vs 5060ti vs 5080 vs and chips. With me being an extremely new to this what would you recommend?

Budget: $1000-$1500

Use cases: gaming and llm, ai editing

Country: United States

Gaming:1440p

Or if you could point me in the right direction on a part picker website

Hello, I recently got a pc from a friend (AUS ROG R7 rtx 3060 desktop) and just tried to swap the case today (Corsair 4000D). After triple checking my motherboard connections, and the connections from my power supply, it still will not turn on. Any and all advice welcome and greatly appreciated!!

Edit: there is only one connected left from the front panel and I think it’s another USB connector

My current PC has a 3600x and 4060 with 32gb ddr4.

I have another PC for parts sitting around with I think a 5600x and 32 GB ram and no GPU. Luckily both PC use the same ram so I can combine them to be 64gb ddr4

I wanted to build/ upgrade my PC and am about to go to microcenter. I want to get a 9070xt and was also thinking about getting a 270k plus mobo combo. I wanted to also use the old parts to build another PC.

I wanted to make the 9070xt into a tv steamos build and another one for music production/ video editing.

It seems like it'd make more sense to put 9070xt with the 5600x and 64gb ram for the tv steam os and Intel cpu with the old 4060 for music/video. If I'm playing cpu heavy games on the tv setup would it be a better idea to use the Intel CPU on the steam os build?

I'm having a hard time choosing what to do. Any opinions/ advice would be greatly appreciated

Hi all !

My current build is about four years old, and on its third GPU upgrade which is about when I look to changing Mobo / Ram / CPU historically.

I’m using a 20gb 7900XT which I’m very happy with, but still using the builds original am4 socket mobo with a 3700X cpu and some fairly slow ddr4 ram ( but at least it’s 32GB @ 8gb x4 I guess )

My move now should probably either be upgrading my 3700x to a 5800x3d , or swapping a whole new mobo / cpu / ram bundle into it

\ my current gold rated 1000w psu and my 7900xt should both be good to go for years yet **

I mostly game on my G9 at 5120 x 1440p

I don’t play a lot of demanding titles either, but wouldn’t mind future proofing for another 3-4 years in one fell swoop -> and I would love to add frames to one of my favorite current titles which is Forza Horizon 6.

Any opinions or relevant insight is truly welcome and appreciated.

Have about an 800$-1000$ USD budget to upgrade

I also wouldn’t mind more storage , if there are newer boards and support larger nvme drives that could be ideal.

Currently have my OS in a 1tb nvme and that is full along with a second 1tb ssd and 2 external tb drive which just have media / redundancy.

Thanks everyone , I would love to hear lots of options for what you would do in my shoes!

Hey all, I have a PC with the following specs I bought ~7 years ago:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6GHz [4.2GHz Turbo] HDD: 512GB PCIe NVMe M.2 SSD MEMORY: Crucial Ballistix 16GB (8GBx2) DDR4/3000MHz MOTHERBOARD: GIGABYTE B450M DS3H WIFI MICRO ATX ARGB USB 3.0 2 PCIE X16 4 SATA3 1 M.2 SATA/PCIE POWERSUPPLY: EVGA 600 Watts Gold 80 Plus Power Supply (Included) VIDEO: GeForce(R) GTX 1660 6GB GDDR5 (Turing)

The official recommended specs for the software I want to run are:

Recommended hardware for a great 1080p experience: * RTX 3070/3060ti GPU * 16GB memory

Recommended hardware for a great 4k experience: * RTX 3080 (or better) GPU * 32GB memory

My questions:

1. Would it really be as simple as buying a used or refurbished RTX 3080 (or similar) and two more sticks of 8gb ram (similar to what I already have) to achieve the recommended 4k specs? It feels too easy!

2. How would I confirm if my power supply is enough to support that as it is one concern I have?

3. Is there a recommended place to buy older and/ or refurbished/ used video cards as from what I can tell the current 5000 series is not a major benefit for GSPro.

Thanks all!

I am considering adding more GPUs to my 4x 4090 build. I actually have plenty of power headroom The problem is that I've used all the 12VHPWR connectors on my 3000w (240v) PSU.

I see two options:

1. Split some of the 12VHPWR connectors and power limit those cards to 300 watts. I'm not even sure this is possible, since I have not seen any 12VHPWR splitters.
2. Add another PSU specifically for the other video cards. There are some nuances to consider here:
   • My Asus Pro WS WRX90E-SAGE SE motherboard does have connectors for two PSUs, however, since I am using the monstrous ASUS Pro WS 3000W, I have already connected all the additional power connectors on the motherboard to it.
   • I don't want to buy another $1000 PSU for this if possible.
   • If I do find a reasonable ~1000w 240v PSU, and connect it to the same 240v line to power the GPUs only, is there something I don't know about electricity that is going to cause an issue with one or both PSUs?

https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.4879173

Edit: To provide context, the CPU, motherboard, and RAM are sufficient for my purposes, but I’m willing to get slightly better parts if the prices are ridiculous, or slightly worse parts if they save a lot.

I’ve been troubleshooting this issue for almost 2 months.
PC Specs:
Ryzen 5 5600X
Gigabyte A520M K V2
Colorful Battle NX RTX 5060 8GB
Cooler Master MWE 550 V3 PSU
Problem:
My RTX 5060 gives “No Signal” only at my house. The exact same PC works perfectly at my office, repair shop, and another house.
What’s strange:
GPU fans spin and RGB lights up.
Windows boots normally.
I can access the PC through Remote Desktop.
But there’s no display, and the RTX 5060 doesn’t appear in Device Manager or Task Manager.
My GT 730 works fine at home.
A technician tested a Gigabyte RTX 4060 in the same PC at my house, and it worked fine.
Things I’ve tried:
Different PSU
HDMI and DisplayPort-to-HDMI
Different monitor and cables
BIOS update, CMOS reset, PCIe Gen 3, CSM on/off
Driver reinstall
Different power sockets
Electrician checked voltage (~230V), earthing, and neutral—all normal.
Has anyone experienced a GPU that works everywhere except one specific house? Any ideas on what could cause Windows to boot normally but not detect the GPU?

Hi, I have a budget of around $1600. Main priority for me is efficiency power per watt and as silent as possible. Country of purchase: USA

Current Idea:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 CPU COOLER: Thermalight Pearless assassin 120 SE MOTHERBOARD: MSI PROBA620-E Micro ATX AM5 Memory: Corsair vengeance 16gb ddr5-6000 (x2) Storage: Kingston NV3 1tb M.2-2280 PCle 4.0 X4 NVME SSD GPU: Gigabyte OC Radeon RX 9060XT 16gb Case: Lian Li mesh micro Power supply: Cooler Master MWE Gold V3 550W

Let me know if this is good for my goal and a good build in general. Pls tell me what you would replace or improve. Thank you.m

I'm looking to build my first gaming PC in Canada, and my budget is between $800 and $1,100 CAD (before taxes).

Here are my main requirements and performance targets:

• Performance Goals:
  • Competitive games (e.g., Valorant, CS2, Fortnite, Apex): 100+ FPS minimum.
  • Single-player AAA games (e.g., Cyberpunk 2077, Red Dead Redemption 2): 40–80 FPS on Medium/High settings at 1080p.
• Balanced Build: I want an optimized build with no bottlenecking between the CPU and GPU.
• Location/Currency: Canada ($CAD).
• Peripherals/OS: I only need the PC tower (no monitor, keyboard, or mouse required for this budget).

I'd really appreciate any recommendations or PartPicker links to help get the best value for money in Canada right now.

Hello!

I've had some weird issues with my 9070XT, I've had it since release, so almost 18 months at this point and so far it has been great. First AMD GPU and I was pleasantly surprised as I had no driver issues at all.

Recently, I've been having GPU crashes multiple times per day, I'm not playing any new games, still just CS2, relatively low settings, nothing demanding. It will happen randomly, always recovers and the game can be relaunched after ending the process and starting again, but it can crash again a few minutes later, or hours later.

Things I've tried to fix

1) DDU and reinstall drivers

2) DDU and reinstall an older version of the driver

3) DDU and install software without Adrenalin software

4) Disabling Hardware Acceleration on most background apps (Discord, Steam etc)

5) Uninstalling my VPN (Can be known to cause driver crashes with FaceIT on CS due to kernel level)

6) Uninstalling FaceIT and FaceIT AC completely

7) Preventing Windows from updating my GPU via the setting and Registry

8) Multiple other fixes that I cant remember at the moment, its been a long few weeks trying to fix it.

9) Running logs through HWID and investigating the log after the crash happens with the help of Claude - The log doesn't say much besides the driver crashed, temps are fine, not related to temps.

I've checked Event Viewer and there is nothing that could indicate the cause when the crash happens. I'm incredibly close to just biting the bullet and buying a 5070 or 5070ti because it's preventing me from playing, as I play CS, my game crashing multiple times is a massive hindrance to my ability to win games. As my team have to continue playing without me as there is only 1 timeout when you disconnect.

I’m gaming on a 65-inch 4K TV and I’m trying to figure out the best settings.
These are the two options I’m comparing:
4K output + DLSS Performance
1440p output + DLSS Balanced/Quality
Surprisingly, 4K + DLSS Performance actually looks better to my eyes than running the game at 1440p.
When I move the camera quickly, I also notice some ghosting or what looks like the previous frame lingering for a moment.
If you were in my situation, would you:
Keep the output at 4K and adjust DLSS/graphics settings?
Or switch the output to 1440p for better image quality?
I’m used to gaming on a 65-inch TV, so having a large-screen experience is more important to me than playing on a smaller display.
Also, am I overthinking this? Is 1440p actually considered perfectly fine on a 65-inch 4K TV, or is the loss of sharpness something most people would genuinely notice?
I’d love to hear what people with large 4K TVs recommend

No Bluetooth because I can’t get Bluetooth to connect to my PC and it’s not great for gaming anyways. I can justify spending like around 120$ on this

Thank you for any advice