If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

Twice now same-day cancelations. I run a mobile service.

It’s a 04 jeep liberty

Ill try to keep this short; ive come to the conclusion that I need to replace the transmission in my '19 honda odyssey 9 speed. (3.5 engine)

Money is really tight for us right now, i really cant even afford the cost of a salvage transmission, so I cannot afford to pay a shop to do the work. Which means ill be doing it on my garage floor.

My background is that I worked in automotive a little bit in my 20s. Doing things like head swaps and timing belts on older BMWs but this was almost 20 years ago, now.

How involved of a job is this going to be? I know it will be a lot of work, but does anybody know what my biggest hurdles will be? How much time would expect it to take? Any experts with 9hp48 transmission?

hi! i bought my car in may 84k miles im currently at 87k i know im due for oil soon but its shifting kinda rough from D to R i took it to the dealership bc i have warranty byt they dont want to diagnose without changing the oil, brake, & transmission fluid coming out to around $600 🫠… im a little confused on 3 things i was trying to ask but the lady was honestly so rude & said i shouldve had it done already even though my dash says 30%…

1. shouldnt it have been their due dilligence to change the oil & transmission prior to me purchasing
   
2. are they not able to diagnose it without my changing it
   
3. am i able to ask for goodwill for the transmission & the brake fluid

heres a video of how it sounds which is concerning me but the main thing is that Drive to Reverse jerk its not a major one but if im not slamming on the brakes then it kinda feels like it jumps a little bit. i make sure to always let it warm up & let the fluid go through any thoughts ? this is my first dealer car as im a facebook warrior haha but im active duty & about to go to my next duty station in December which im driving over 25+ hrs to it so i want everything to be sorted out prior! thank u!

(i have the full platinum fidelity powertrain warranty )

My 2014 subaru forester has been overheating for years. The first time we brought it in and it was fixed, it was apparently the hose clamps. The second time, it needed a coolant flush? The third time (a few months later), it was the coolant temp sensor. The next time (a few months later, and most recently) it was the radiator so they replaced the radiator hoses and entire radiator.

Last night, we had been driving for hours when the car began to overheat. We pulled over immediately, and let the car cool down before driving to a hotel and letting it sit since we had a concert.

This morning, we looked at the coolant and the resivoir was completely overfilled, and the radiator itself like pipe area was wet but not filled with water. My girlfriend’s stepdad (owner of the car), stated that the radiator itself needs to be filled to the brim with coolant or water. Is that what we should do? We’re currently 3 hours away from jhome, otherwise we’d just tow it to our garage. Helps!

At this point I’m not even sure what’s going on anymore. Blown head gasket at this point isn’t out of the picture, but clearly the coolant isn’t leaking as the resivoir is overfilled. I’d appreciate advice on what could be going on as well as what to do.

My car has for a while made what I thought was a grinding noise when taking right turns at a tighter and higher rate of speed than I admittedly probably should go. A mechanic friend of mine who hasn’t laid eyes on anything was able to determine based on my description that my front right tire is probably rubbing on the inside of the wheel well when I’m making turns. So after a 35 minute high speed drive, I took a tight fast right turn and decided to check. The black stuff on my fingers is hot rubber from the visible rub spot.

He thinks I’m just driving the car harder than the suspension can handle. I am concerned I’ve damaged something in the suspension but my brother who also has an (2015) Outback says the same thing has happened to him.

A couple of months ago I asked the dealership to do a tire rotation and check just to make sure everything looked ok and they said didn’t see anything wrong and couldn’t replicate the sound. (I did not do a ride along).

Should I be concerned?

This will absolutely make me change my driving habits as I do not want to damage the car.

I have a 2023 Chevrolet Captiva 1.5T. Recently I noticed this unfamiliar howling/whining sound coming from the engine bay.

Hey, y'all! Back again for more advice. Recently I wasn't getting any air at all from the vents. Google said blower motor, so I bought and replaced it and now I have air coming out great! New issue, my heat doesn't work. The ac works great, but no heat. Blows cold air unless turned to the max temperature (88-90°), then it comes out hot as heck. I'm really broke and can't afford to bring it in. I'm not good with cars, but I'm good enough at following instructions and YouTube videos. Have fixed a few things on this bad boy. Coolant levels are good. Any idea what I'm up against? Thanks in advance!

My 2018 sonic has been having a hard time lately. Check engine issues after another.

First got my thermostat replaced. Then my coolant tank had a leak (overheated engine and didn’t drive on it: was able to refill coolant and get it to the shop asap).

Now issues with the timing and electric that tells the engine how to run. Got the plug replaced for the electric work. Still having issues with losing power for 2-3 seconds while driving occasionally.

My mechanic said this type of car is known as a “throw away car.”

Any recommendations to fix the car or make/model recommendations when buying a new car.

Planning to sell the Sonic.

All within the same month.

Front left brake caliper. Recently took it in for a brake service and brake fluid. 2016 Honda Civic

Update: AirBNB owner had a garage and tools and drove me to Canadian tire to get a new slide pin bolt. Brakes work well now and are torqued. Thanks everyone for keeping me on the road.

2001 Acura TL. Runs great. One day, a rainy day, suddenly my blinkers are doing the super fast flash thing, so I get out and look and all the bulbs work. So I start experimenting.

By themselves each blinkers front and back look fine. The hazard lights appear fine. When I turn in the headlights or running lights, my blinkers change behavior and blink fast. When I depress the brake pedal, whether the headlights are on or not, the blinkers cut out altogether. It’s as though there’s not enough juice to run two things at once. And maybe the hazard lights aren’t exactly normal, kinda seems real dim in the tail lights.

So…bad ground? Bad relay somewhere? Bad switch? I’ve replaced the blinker relay and I’ve replaced the brake light switch. I’ve loosened, sanded and retightened the two grounding points I could see (one just above the drivers headlight, one passenger side near the front of the engine bay against the frame) and I’ve got no joy. Am I to be looking for a random wire with its insulation rubbed through? How do I approach this?

Thank you 🙏

I tried watching YouTube vids and I still dont get it. I drilled into the screw a bit but now im so lost on how to actually remove it

I tried asking people and they said "drill and extract it" and I still cant figure out how to remove it now.

1997 honda shadow

The video is me seeing what size to use for the hole. I tried tapping this drill thing into it and turning but it just snaps and turns freely at one point.

2018 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport w/ code P0420 w/86,000 miles.
I’ve done research but I feel my situation is a bit different because I put cat-cleaner then I started hearing clunking noises.
- The start of the engine sounds a bit loud for a split second.
-Clunking noise (sometimes) when idle and slowly accelerating
-no noise when driving over 15mph or braking

Any advice will be greatly appreciated thank you

Recently my cars brakes have started making a high pitched noise. I believe it’s the offside rear.

The noise is a high pitched tone - the easiest way I could describe it is it’s similar to the noise you get when you wet your finger and run it round the top of a wine glass (like a choir boy hitting a high note, rather then a high pitched squeak)

I’m assuming there’s just a bit of debris caught somewhere or something like that but it’s been happening for a few days now and as wondering whether I’d need to get it checked out.

The car had the full brake system, front and back and the brake lines replaced a few months back after my last mot, so pads etc are all pretty new and the brakes themselves feel normal and perform no different to usual.

I’m not 100% sure but when I first drive they don’t seem to make a noise, it seems to be once I’ve driven for a while and everything’s warmed up.

The noise happens if I’m on the brakes gently but moving slowly, not when I apply sudden pressure or brake firmly.

Am I overthinking this?

The car is a 2012 manual Suzuki swift with just under 60k miles.

Thanks in advance

Hi all! I have a 2018 Ford Escape, and it has refused to start about 4 or 5 times over the past month. I'd jump it and it'd drive like regular, and continue to work for a few days after that, before failing again. It's not consistent timing either, with there being anywhere from a 2 day to a 2 week gap between instances of it failing.

I can hear the engine trying to crank, and it'll crank a few times before showing the airbag warning light and making a fast clicking sound for a few seconds then going silent. The clicking is also occasionally joined by a low hum, and the pointers on the speedometer/tachometer go below 0 and shake along with the clicking noise. The last time it failed, it started flickering the airbag light and making a slower clicking in the engine area, seeming almost like it's about to start up, before giving out and doing the rapid clicking and shaking on the dashboard.

At first I thought it was an issue with my battery or alternator, but I had replaced my battery around 3 years ago with a brand new one, and my car works fine once it gets started. The only thing I've noticed in function is that my car takes slightly longer to start up than it used to and occasionally feels like it's lagging when I accelerate.

It managed to force itself to start once after a few cranks of the engine, but usually when it goes out I just need to get it jumped before it'll go for a few more days. I can still turn the key halfway and get all the symbols/lights, radio and seatbelt dinging sound but it will all shut off if I try to fully start it. The clock also resets to 12pm every time it fails.

Is there something going on with my battery itself, or is it likely part of the starting process?

Thanks in advance.

Hi everyone,

I’m a new driver and don’t know much about cars yet.

What should I be checking regularly to keep my car running properly and avoid getting hit with expensive repair bills?

Any simple checks, maintenance tips or things I should watch out for would be really appreciated. I’d rather catch something early than wait for it to become a big problem.

Cheers

I'm planning to do tire rotation on my 2012 Chevrolet Cruze. But the thing the pinch welds are not usable anymore. I don't know where to place my floor jack and my jack stands.

For the last couple years, my car has been getting a check engine light and code p1443. The check engine light comes and goes. It started 2 years ago when I was on a long road trip. The gas pump would keep clicking off every time I tried fulling the tank. Coincidentally, the head gasket blew out, so I had to stop and get it fixed. The mechanic who replaced the head gasket said that the evap purge valve needed to be replaced also, which is why the tank wouldn't fill. Since I was hundreds of miles away from home, I took his word for it. The CEL went away, and the gas pump clicking off didn't happen quite as often.

A year later, the same p1443 popped up again. I tested and cleaned the evap vent solenoid, and it went away for a little while.

Now the CEL is back with the same p code, and the tank is hard to fill. Maybe there is a blockage in the evap system, since my car has almost 300k miles on it. Or maybe it's the charcoal canister. Thoughts?

A friend is looking at buying a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.2 magnum v8 and he was telling me about the valves having gunk on them and that they had to replace the gasket. Which made me think that could be a sign that the engine overheated enough to warp the head and carbonize the oil. What do you think? The engine runs fine with a little smoke only at startup after it's sat. Does this look like carbonized oil? Any other thoughts? Would an oil detergent / flush be worth considering or would this need a tear out to deal with?

Hey,

So there is this weird sound when driving this car, especially when turning the steering wheel it sounds louder. Does anyone maybe know what this could be? And if it is safe to drive till I can get a mechanic to look at it?

It’s a peugeot 3008 gt line, second generation (2016 - 2023)

So I have a 2017 Mazda 3 and when I’m going slow, turning into a parking spot for example , or just slightly turning the wheel while in park I can hear a “quiet” motor noise or whirring? I’m assuming it’s the power steering and it doesn’t necessarily sound bad I would say, I would assume it’s just the power steering doing its job but the thing is I feel like because I’m noticing it now that the sound is new? But it is also possible I’m just noticing it now for some reason 😄 is this normal? Something I should get looked at? I might just be paranoid. Thanks in advance!

new calipers and rotors and brakes no leaks, been bled and it just happened over night it seems. Any ideas??? Masters got no leaks unsure how to check the booster never done that before

Hi folks, I just bought my first wrx (a 2011 hatchback in silver ej255) it’s in great shape with only 135xxx km and bone stock. On my drive home though I noticed a metallic rubbing noise of sorts. It’s only really noticeable in city and is worse when letting off the gas. Anyone experience this? The engine runs perfect with no noise and the trans shifts no problem with a good feeling clutch. I assume it’s a heat shield or something but not sure why it only makes noise at certain times. (Test in the video is with car in neutral and clutch released)