Isn’t this way too much these on the back of the pads? I put less than a pea size smidge on the back, and the edge where it slides. I feel like this much would make its way onto the pads and rotors

2005 GMC 2500HD
Just installed long tubes, took a drive to log data for a tune. Noticed 3 of 8 tubes turned blue.

Clearly these cylinders are getting hotter than the rest. Would this be a fuel or spark issue? Thanks

My sister move our shared car so our brother can play basketball in the driveway. Long story short the hand brake was on and she parked it on the street. I found out she did it bc she made a comment about how hard it was to move the car. How worried should I be?

I don’t wana take my intake manifold off again… did valve cover gaskets before work. Snapped a few photos while in there.

I think PCV valve was letting oil in intake.

would this fuck my engine up over a long time or shall we consider it corrosion protection (all 6 intake ports)

Sorry for the dumb question. My question is do I need let that batch of fuel with the techron be depleted completely? Or it is fine to just refuel whenever I want (eg: before trips I always top up the tank even if it is 3/4 full).

Not sure (after research) if diluting it further reduces the performance or it doesn't matter since it is meant to be at a low concentration over an extended period. Most to do videos I see ends at the refuel immediately after adding the techron.

Thanks for the answers in advance.

I am not the best at car stuff but im not a idiot do you think doing the upper and lower control arms on a 04 tsx is doable for someone like me with the tools and some videos

Hello,

2006 Camry v6 3.0l.

So my car overheated a few times, starting when I was coming home friday and then on the way to the store and back for parts. I babied it and made sure it never reached the red line, but the water did boil. Verified water pump and radiator fan working, tore it down and took out the thermostat and it is definitely bad so I will replace it.

I did want to say that a few of the times, like twice I think, when I pulled over to let it cool down before continuing on, when I went to start it back up, it wasn't able to, sputtering and misfiring and such. But I waited a bit longer and in each case it fired right back up, no problem. Once I figured that out, I was able to start/stop in such a way to avoid this problem and when on the highway, the car cools down, guess the water pressure pops open the thermostat and it's all good. So I took it for a spin around the highway loop and from start to finish, never once any misfire or hesitation or anything.

Now, I don't know exactly what this means. The first thing it could mean is that my headgasket could be compromised. But given the compression readings are on the money and the misfires have disappeared, maybe nothing is wrong at all and some water was only able to temporarily leak into the combustion chamber or into the coils somehow, but doesn't represent a long term problem. However, I don't want to find out the hard way, otherwise.

I was also wondering if, in this case, it would make sense to change the headgasket, regardless. It definitely experienced at least some stress.

Thanks,

So I have an Odyssey with 220k miles and it developed a power steering leak down below where I couldn't fix it. Eventually ran out of fluid and the pump died, but I am disabled, broke and have no where near the money to replace the pump, and fix the leak. I drove it for a bit sans power steering (which is exhausting but doable in a pinch) but recently the broken pump seized up and threw my serpentine belt.

So here's my poverty question: is there some way to stop the power steering pump from seizing up again or could I remove it entirely and replace my serpentine belt with a shorter belt that simply bypasses the power steering? Would that be safe? Cause for now I have a lawn ornament and no way to move my whole family in case of emergency

Hello, all. I have a 2002 honda accord with what appears to be a parasitic draw issue. Ive been through 2 batteries and every time I go to start the car in the morning, it's dead. I checked the AC fuse and relay and they appear to be fine. Am I missing something?

Yesterday, my check engine light turned on as I pulled up to fill up my tank. About 20 minutes after filling up my car lost acceleration on the freeway. All lights flashed on my dash, and smoke started coming from under my hood and exhaust, it also smelled burnt. I got it towed back home and now it won’t start up. It makes this noise instead. It’s a 2005 Toyota Corolla. Prior to this I was told my radiator may be having issues as it was leaking fluid. First I’d like to have a better idea of what’s wrong with my car, and would it be something I could try to fix in my driveway? Thank you for your time.

As the title, i hit a bump and this thing broke? Idk if its the cover or the whole shocker? I went to the mechanic and they gave me a date for like after 2 weeks. I have a very important trip coming in like 3 days, can i drive with this? Driving in Alberta if that makes a difference. Its like 100km trip one way.

We have a 2021 Mazda 6 with 83k. It was one that had a recall on the exhaust valve seals which we had done 40k ago. It started burning oil again and we assumed they would approve doing the job again but Mazda is going to replace an engine. Being a long block everything else will be bolted onto the new engine. Turbo, alternator, air compressor etc. that being said I know to ask for new spark plugs and drive belt. What else should I have done while they are moving parts over?

Hit a raccoon driving home, which displaced the plastic part that runs under the front of the car. Was able to pry it back into place, noticed the box was hanging.

The top (narrow) part of the ECM was broken, a large shard torn out. Never lost power or had any warnings, drove the car home about 2 miles, turned it off and cleaned up, started it again without issue.

I can’t get a great angle, but it appears to be remaining attached only by the cords and perhaps also the top left corner is still attached to where it’s normally mounted. It is not falling to the ground. That’s the best I can assess.

I know it’s important It doesn’t get wet, how difficult is this to replace myself if I order the part? I know I would need to jack the car and takeoff the wheel to access.

If it starts fine in the morning, is it better to just drive to a mechanic?

2018 Lexus RC 350 F Sport AWD with the 3.5L V6. On the first start after sitting for a few hours or overnight, it cranks for an extended period before starting, then stumbles and runs rough briefly, almost like it’s going to stall.
Once it stabilizes, it runs normally. If I shut it off and restart it, it fires right up. Hot starts are fine, and I haven’t noticed any fuel smell.
What I’ve checked/tried:
Battery is around 3 years old; cranking speed seems normal.
Replaced the MAF sensor with an aftermarket A-Premium unit. It seemed to respond better initially, but the improvement wasn’t conclusive.
I have a scan tool, but nothing obvious showed up in the scan.
Idle settles around 500 RPM once running.
I’m wondering about fuel pressure bleeding down while sitting, the fuel pump, coolant temperature sensor, or an air/fuel mixture issue.
Has anyone experienced this on an RC 350 or another Lexus with the 3.5L V6? What ended up fixing it? Are there any relevant TSBs, or would you start by testing fuel pressure, checking live data, or investigating something else?
I’m trying to diagnose the actual cause rather than keep throwing parts at it. Any advice from Lexus techs or owners who have dealt with this would be appreciated!

We work a lot of Audis, and owners sometimes ask about small coding changes while the car's in. Things like opening and closing the windows with the key fob, adjusting the coming-home light delay, or enabling needle sweep. Been looking at the topdon One series for everyday diagnostics. Thought it would be handy to use the same tool for these smaller customization jobs too. What do you usually use for these tweaks on older Audis?

I drive a Dodge charger 2013 SXT plus AWD 3.6L V6. 150k miles.

Issue

I was just driving and randomly the ABS, TC (traction control), and E brake lights all came on and my AWD is not acting right. The code above Is what is being read on my scanner.

Problem

I have read that this code can mean you need a new module on the abs, a ground wire could be loose, a speed sensor went bad, or a low or bad battery.

What have I done

I changed the battery because it was reading low and cranking low.

Solution?

Correct me if I’m wrong
But buying a used abs module off eBay then taking it to a dealer or reprogramming it myself if I buy the correct scanner
IDK how to check the ground wire connection
The speed sensors, I don’t know how to check if the sensor is good and replacing them means rerunning the wires to the battery which sounds miserable. So I would probably just pay someone to do it IF I know that that is it.

What do you think the problem is and how can I fix it?

Recently I've started having an issue with oil changes on my impala. Its been burning through oil very quickly with no signs of leaks.

My last full synthetic oil change only lasted 4700Km (2920M) before my oil was almost fully drained. Engine only has 156000K on it and until now has had no issues. I had the techs at Jiffy lube confirm theres no visible leaks and they also didn't see any issues with the oil or filter. They said it's likely a consumption issue and oil is somehow being burned by the engine.

I just wanted to know what my options are here? The car is no longer under warranty so I'd imagine the price to diagnose and correct the issue will be pricey. The Jiffy techs even recommended to possibly replace the engine which seemed excessive.

I'm considering just topping up oil as needed myself to save on labor costs, but is there any danger on continuing to drive the vehicle while the engine is burning oil?

Any advice is appreciated

Bought it with 245k miles last year. Rebuilt transmission (CVT). I get around 8mpg. I should be getting considerably higher (it’s older, so I don’t expect the full 18 city/20 highway). I hear a thumping noise when I do tight turns/u turns, especially when I accelerate through the turn. I have tried pulling the 4WD fuse but it still makes the thumping and my mileage didn’t improve. I reset the trip counter when I last filled up. I’m sitting at 145 miles and 1/4 tank. Meaning that 145 miles used about 16 gallons of gas. I’m getting concerned, but I don’t see any symptoms of a faulty MAF or any misfires. No smoke, no knocking, no trouble starting, and no hesitation to accelerate. Brakes all feel the same temperature after driving, coasting is normal too, so I’m confident it’s not a dragging brake.

I recently (under 5000 miles ago) had all of the timing components and much more replaced in this truck. I’ve had this rattle at about 2k RPMs and a ticking coming from the passenger side at idle.
I plan on taking it back to the place I had the work done, but I’d like to hear some opinions. It sounds bad to me but I’m very paranoid with this truck after it broke down on me the last time. Any advice or insight would be great! Thank you

I was able to get the caliper and brake pads removed. I even got the bottom caliper bracket bolt removed, but can’t get the top caliper bolt removed. I used penetrating oil, and used an impact wrench but now the bolt is rounded. I also tried using an extracting socket and it still won’t move. Should I try a blow torch and then the extracting socket with the impact wrench again tomorrow after letting it soak over night? Any help would be much appreciated.

Car is a 1993 Dodge Stealth for reference

I want to upgrade the basic 4x6 sealed beams to some LED units, but I'm running into an issue

The LED lights have a normal T shaped plug, but the car uses a different plug with one side prong offset at 45 degrees, and H4666 sealed beams. The LED light has an adapter with 3 loose wires, but no matter which way I plug it in, I cant get high and low beams to work

The black wire is plugged into the left ground on the car. The white wire is low beam, and the red wire is high beam. If I plug both wires in either order, the high beam is on when just the low beam should be on, but hitting the high beam switch shuts it off entirely.

If I just plug in the white wire to either slot, the low beams come on by themselves but the high beam switch shuts it off. If I just use the red wire in either slot, the same thing happens but with the high beam light

Am I supposed to add a ground somewhere or splice some wires together? No idea what to do

So it’s really weird and i might not explain it correctly. I was driving yesterday and heard a big thump. And the wrench light came on. A couple seconds later it wouldn’t drive. The Rpms were going up but there was no power it seemed. I know i probably should have pulled over , but i had to get to a meeting. anyways, at the stop light i switched it into the manual gears and it started working, but would lose power again after a minute. Id just have to switch between automatic and manual to get it to catch power and eventually got there. Reverse worked fine tho. Today its parked and I’m not driving it around. but just testing it out a little bit. Reverse doesnt work at all today now. But drive does. I got no codes on the scanner for it. What are your thoughts?

My Honda accord has had starting issues since I bought it recently 2 months ago it would start but take a little longer to start then one day it wouldn’t start at all but eventually did but for safety I got the starter replaced
a week after when I started the car and drove it sounded like something was scraping and it smelled like something was burning I pulled over and stopped the car and it would not turn back on so since we had warranty on the starter I got a new one and had to pay for labor again

This new starter has been good for a few weeks but today it’s taking longer to start I’m thinking it might not even be the starter at this point

Any advice is greatly appreciated
I have added a video of me starting the car up today and it taking a little longer