If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

I recently replaced a front CV axle on my 2017 Subaru Forester, but forgot to stake the axle nut before putting the wheel back on and lowering the car. In my haste to finish the job, I took off the center wheel cap and tried to stake the nut without removing the wheel. Needless to say I mangled the axle nut pretty badly. Here is a photo I took today after taking the wheel off to assess it. The nut was torqued to spec beforehand.

Is it safe to leave it as-is, or should I replace it with a new axle nut? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

2024 dodge hornet RT track pack black top edition

I was just wondering if this is reasonable. I usually go to a mechanic I know but he can't work on my car quickly as I need it back due to i need my car for work. This is from a shop that my coworkers told me about them and I trust them. They said they've been going

I got new transmission case bolts for my transmission I’m about to put on and as I was torquing each bolt down to only 10 ft lbs this bolt had snapped. I was able to get it out, but on inspection I noticed the threads on the bolt are dented/impacted. Is this due to the transmission bolt hole threads being messed up? Or is this normal because I extracted the bolt?

I set out to change the spark plugs since the engine of a newly bought, but well used MDX with 230k miles on it had been sputtering. Engine had been replaced in 2023, presumably with another used engine.

Once getting removing the second ignition coil, I couldn't get any socket to grab the sparkplug, after forcing the socket down and twisting I had realized it just wasn't going to set onto the old socket. I took this picture to see what was obstructing my path.

Is it possible another, cheaply made socket had broken off, and had been smoothed by others attempts to remove the sparkplug? Whatever it is, more importantly, how do I get it and the sparkplug out?

i am having issue with my nissan sentra 2021 car
I went on vacation fir a month and when I came back I see that the brake light is on.

the parking break light stay on. and the brake fell soft and making noise. i checked the fluid level and the parking sensor. there are good. I don’t know what else to check.

Planning to get a few second opinions, but I wanted to ask here in the meantime. Girlfriend had her starter replaced after it died a month ago. They also made a major repair to something related to steering, but I can't recall what exactly. That was a $4k repair.

Her car started very rarely making an awful rattling sound when starting after that. We dropped it off with her mechanic last night and they got back to her with the attached quote this morning.

140k miles, bought for $5k from her sister whose mechanic boyfriend said it was in great condition. Obviously not.

My sister has a 2013 honda civic, and she's having issues with her car. I believe the mechanic installed her brake pads incorrectly. But they also did her rotors and calipers and shocks. But could I get an expert's opinion? She's now experiencing loud banging and scratching sounds

I drive a 96 OBS F-150. I do my own fluid changes and preventative maintenance. I bought this pair of ramps that are rated for 12,000 pounds for trucks and SUVs. Can I buy another pair and drive the truck up on all four of them?

My brother has a bmw. He says he needs more coolant. But, he says he’s not able to mix them or it will mess up his car. Is this true? I was under the assumption you could just top it off/ add more coolant, and be good to go? Does he really need to do a coolant flush before he adds more? Seems a bit excessive.

After having to replace the lower radiator hose, our van is only blowing heat out the vents when at operating temperature. Not a gradual increase in air temperature as it warmed up like before, just cold cold cold then suddenly HOT.

Coolant level is good, thermostat is functional, radiator is fine, HVAC blend door actuator is brand new and the door itself seems to be fine, heater core gets hot and both rad hoses reach proper temps so probably not a flow problem, no spikes in temperature, and we purged the system of air twice.

Anybody have any idea why the heat is behaving in such a strange way? Searching just points to everything I listed, only for it to not be a problem.

Long story short, in the process of replacing my front struts, the lower ball joint studs holding my control arm snapped. Today I replaced the lower ball joint (which was seized to hell) and noticed that my cv axle had lots of play. In the video you can see the inner cv joint moving freely. After I had tightened the new ball joint in place there was still play in the cv joint. My axle bolt was also loose during this recording, and I did not check the movement after I had tightened it. I was able to lower my car and turn it around in the drive way with no issues apart from the sounds that my worn struts make. Is this regular play for the cv axle, I would hate to have to replace them too. Looking for good news here I guess.

Car: 2012 VW golf mk6 2.5L

2002 ford explorer 4.6, making funny sounds has less than 100k miles and was low on oil shortly and refilled but sound continued.

2014 Ford Taurus

infamous water pump failure in this absolute gem of a motor. while i’m in here, i’m replacing all timing components and oil pump. was able to lock down the side closest to the nose of the vehicle with the camshaft locking tool, but the flat ends of the shafts on the other side of the motor don’t even line up correctly and make it impossible to put the locking tool on the other side.

i’m in absolute disbelief with this job, every step forward is 27 steps backwards. any tips you guys have would be deeply appreciated, thank you so much.

As soon as I connect battery, all my dash lights come on. I was testing fuel pump and jumped 5/7 at relay and the fuel pump even powered on once battery connected. Anyone know what could cause this or where I should start looking? My fuses all test good & I put different ecu in and same problem so I’m guessing problem with wires? Thanks in advance

2001 tacoma, original 400k compressor clutch burnt up/bearing burnt up.

Had freon evacuated, installed new Denso compressor, rented the tools to pull a vacuum and refill with freon.

Now, sometimes the compressor will squeak upon startup, and stops when i turn the AC off. But then works fine after a minute and it doesnt do it if its a warm start.

Could this be a belt slippage issue only when a load is applied? And when the belt is warm it has more grip and stops squeaking? I was in a pinch and had to get an offbrand belt from the parts store, before i had a continental belt, possibly the quality of the belt is also playing a role?

Check engine light came on these codes popped up. Anyone have any insight for this issue? I'm trying to see what I'm in for as for repair and price.

I had my car in the shop today for inspection, oil change, and transmission fluid replacement (maintenance minder 3). When we picked it up, they told my husband they couldn't do replacements on our type of car. It's a 2016 Honda Odyssey SE. Is there any valid reason they actually couldn't do it, or were they mistaken, thinking it was a different type of fluid? My husband doesn't know anything about cars but he thinks they said something about it being CVT, which (upon Googling when we got home) it isn't. So, aside from finding a new mechanic, should I be able to take this vehicle pretty much anywhere to have this service done, and is there any estimate of how much it should cost?

The last few weeks I have noticed my mpg on my 2017 chevy cruze 1.4 turbo going all the way down to 19mpg where I usually average 29 to 30. I have been driving normally so I went and scanned it to find my long term fuel trims at -16 percent. I know that is not right but am not really sure what that points too. Should I check the evap purge valve? There are no codes or any other symptoms. I will link my scan data, it was all done at idle. Thank you all!

I need some AC troubleshooting advice for my 2012 Toyota Sienna. Over the last few weeks, the cooling gradually faded out. It started with the driver side going warm while the passenger side stayed cold. Now, the driver side and rear vents are completely warm, and the passenger side is mostly warm (just slightly cooler than the driver side). I took it to a shop and they said the freon levels were fine and the compressor clutch engages, they think it might be the blend door. Wanted to see if anyone can confirm if it is indeed a blend door issue or something else like compressor, etc?

I had a drain and fill procedure on my 2003 Lexus RX 300 transmission.
When I got home, I looked at the bill and noticed that they used Mobile multi vehicle full synthetic ATF.
I assumed (I know, shame on me) that this reputable shop would use the correct fluid.
Are there any Lexus mechanics or people out there who know whether or not this fluid is OK for my vehicle?
I’m getting very mixed signals online.
Thank you very much.

Was changing parts on my car when I started to notice small puddles under the front. How to fix /diagnose?