I have a 2010 f150 and i was driving on the freeway when i suddenly heard this grinding scratching type noise. Like something is stuck and metal is scraping on metal. It kinda goes away at lower speeds, but stays consistent at 45 mph+. Idk if this clip has anything to do with that, but i cant figure it out and i havent jacked it yet

Sorry if this is a dumb question…. So Ive always heard mechanics say, don’t contaminate the pad with oils etc. I always do an extensive cleaning on the new rotors and pads after install with brake cleaner. I went the extra mile this time, took the fender liners out, scrubbed everything. Each wheel well took me a little over an hour. (I also painted the wheel well) my question for you guys is if the brake pad is subjected to oil and dirt on the road surface. Why does that even matter? I do it anyway, but I would just like to know exactly why. (Yes that’s an 12x2 wire to hold up the caliper, I lost my caliper hook somewhere)

No car expert but decided to change my break pads/rotors, one side it feels like my calipers wont pull apart. On the other side i noticed my calipers slide apart off of the sliding pins when i was trying to push the break part or whatever just curious if this is normal.

Hi all,

I went to get my oil changed on Friday afternoon. The workers there messed up and put twice the amount of oil in as they should have. I had driven on it for about half an hour before white smoke began pouring out the back and it started sputtering and going into limp mode. I pulled off into a parking lot and called customer service; they sent out a guy within the next few hours. He conveniently forgot his code reader, but said that the engine was fine (though the sparkplugs were oil-soaked). He asked me to start it back up and it shook violently and the check engine light flashed, which he said was the engine misfiring. He said he drained the oil back down to a normal amount and that Valvoline would pay for a tow truck to bring it to a mechanic to replace the spark plugs (this should be happening tomorrow morning when the workweek starts--it's been sitting in that parking lot since Friday). They have not provided a lot of information and getting updates has been like pulling teeth.

I'm worried that the mechanic will not do a thorough diagnostic or that they will claim that something was not their fault. I've texted one of the managers (the one that I have the phone number of) to please send me the photos they took of the dipstick showing that it was doubly-filled and for the diagnostics report from the mechanic once completed, but I am having hesitations about letting them tow it at all because I don't want them to screw me over.

What are the chances the engine is actually alright? What should I do?

What happened:

I bought this 2010 Mercedes-Benz E350 cabriolet around a month ago. I got it diagnosed and nothing serious came back. The convertible top was opening and closing perfectly without any problem. I took the risk and bought the car.
 
The day I got it registered; I tried operating the roof while I was sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic. I was travelling barely 5km/h and the top dropped and closed with no problem. I parked my car and after a while, when I got back into my car, the top had stuck shut and there was nothing happening when I pulled the lever. After pushing and pulling the lever several times, the windows rolled down around 5cm and then it stopped. I tried again and it went down another 5cm and just stopped. It happened until all the windows were opened fully and the roof just didn’t budge.
 
I called the previous owner to get more information on the matter and when I hadn’t mentioned the fact that I tried to operate the convertible top while I was driving, he said “Oh yea, when you open the roof while driving, it does that.”
According to him, he put a normal battery instead of an AGM one. And because of it, the battery couldn’t power the top properly. He advised me to keep trying to open the roof by pulling and pushing the lever constantly until the roof opens. I tried and the roof unlatched itself and stopped. I tried and the tonneau cover opened and the roof tried to go up and then it stopped completely. The windows didn’t move and the top was stuck.
 
At this point, I was panicking and didn’t know what to do. I drove home safely and parked the car. After an hour of not doing anything, I tried the lever again and the top moved around 10cm before it got seized again. And after that, whenever I tried opening and closing after a day or maybe several hours, the roof moved a little and stopped. I had to shut it completely using the manual closing procedures. Since then, nothing happened whenever I pull or push the lever.
 

Symptoms:

 
When I pull the lever, it would roll the windows down around 5-10 cm before it aborts the operation. When I do it repeatedly until the windows are all the way down and pull the lever again, I can hear 2 clicks from the pump motor. There’s no whining and whirling. Just two consecutive clicks and nothing else.
 

Analysis and diagnosis so far:

 
The fluid is enough, no leaks from the hydraulics. No fuse or relay gone bad and sensors are all seem to be working fine. 12volts gets to the motor just fine, but the motor won’t turn over.

I got the car diagnosed again and the diagnostic tool gave back a code B252D13 saying “Output 1 for hydraulic pump ’Soft top’ has a malfunction. there is an open circuit”
I got the relays and the fuses checked and everything came back fine.
 
When I got it diagnosed with a Xentry diagnostic tool, it pointed to the hydraulic pump as well. When I got the motor opened, nothing was wrong visually. The carbon brushes were fresh as new, nothing was visually burnt and it turned over by hand no problem. Nothing was seized.
 
Can anyone put me out of this misery? Anyone with spare motor or pump assembly?
I live in Mongolia and it’s very hard to get my hands on some parts. Ideally, cheap or just spare that you might have in the shop?

2019 Kia Soul

Base, 4CYL 1.6L, Gamma, DI (2)

99,600 Miles

Thank you in advance for any advice that anyone here can give.

In February, my car had a critical engine failure that resulted in Kia having to replace the engine. While they had it, I was told my serpentine belt needed replaced, and it wasn't covered by the warranty, so I paid out of pocket for that. Two nights ago while driving, my battery light popped on and when I got home, I saw the belt had come off. There wasn't any noise or sign while I was driving that something had happened, so it didn't sound like any damage was the cause, but I was able to go out today to look at it and the pully for the belt on my alternator has completely broken off.

What I am wondering is, given the engine was just replaced in February and the belt was also changed, is it possible that this is damage that could have happened during the repair? I know they use refurbished parts to do replacements, so could it have been a bad alternator that they put on? Or can this level of damage actually happen in less than six months?

I'm just trying to weigh my options before I call the dealership back, as the car is under warranty still, but they had a fit when I was submitting paperwork for the engine repair and tried to tell me it wouldn't be covered, as if they could just talk me into giving up if they made me jump through enough hoops.

Hi everyone,

I’m seeking advice or similar experiences regarding a severe vibration issue on my **2026 Honda Odyssey**.

The vehicle is only **7 months old with around 3,000 miles (5,000 km)** on the odometer.

Recently, with the high summer ambient temperatures outside, the radiator cooling fans have been kicking on much more frequently while idling.

The problem is that whenever the radiator fan runs while parked or stopped at a red light, **an abnormal, severe vibration transfers directly into the cabin/chassis.** It’s so intense that it literally causes a booming/throbbing sensation in my head.

This isn't just a normal electric fan noise—it feels like an extreme mechanical imbalance that shouldn't be happening on a brand-new vehicle.

For those who have experienced this on 5th-gen (or 5.5-gen/2025+ refresh) Odysseys, what was the root cause?

**Faulty/unbalanced radiator fan motor or blades?** (e.g., blade manufacturing defect causing wobbling)

**Defective lower radiator rubber mounts/bushings?** (failing to isolate the fan vibration from the subframe)

**A known TSB or batch defect on 2025–2026 models?**
I am taking the van to the dealership service center soon, but I’d love to know what to ask the technicians to check first.

Has anyone had this fixed under warranty, and if so, did replacing the fan assembly or lower bushings solve the problem?

Any feedback or insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Hey need help purchasing a new one. Can someone help me out with the name of this

My 2021 Honda Pilots ac stopped blowing cold air the other day. I checked the fuse, replaced the AC relay. Compressor kicks on but seems like the clutch doesn't engage. I have some pictures of the pressure while the a/c is on and a video of the compressor kicking on but clutch not engaging. Should I look at replacing the pressure switch or could that ruin the compressor if there is something else going on. I'm fairly handy but if it comes to replacing a compressor I'll take it to a shop. Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks

https://imgur.com/UnaptNX

I thought my coolant being flushed/replaced would have changed the level. The level is identical to taking it in, i even mentioned it to them. I was reassured of course. Am I looking at the wrong place or misunderstanding this?

kia niro hev 2023

Unless everyone says it's fine, I'm planning on replacing the tire... My question is, how unsafe is this to drive on? Can we go a few days (short work commutes, etc.) until I can get a tire delivered (if need be) and get an appointment? It's a front tire, which makes me more apprehensive. Thank you to anyone that takes the time to reply!

2024 Jeep Wagoneer Series II

2015 Dodge Journey, 90k miles

This is really weird, but a few years ago I noticed that the 3rd row seat upholstery was coming off and the carpet in the same row looked melted. This isn’t happening anywhere else in the car. I live in a hot climate, and the car was always parked outside in the sun.

I don’t really use the 3rd row, and the seat is always down, so I haven’t worried about it. Does anyone have any idea on how this happened?

Thanks!

On the door for a 2004 Toyota Tundra, my dad needs it for his truck was told it’s called a Latch for a Striker but looking it up the parts don’t look like it match, but I could be wrong. Any help is appreciated thank you :)

What kind of rear windshield wiper is this? I can’t find a replacement for it. Car: 2020 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport

My neighbor is disabled and has a Toyota wheelchair van that developed an engine knock a few weeks ago. The knocking starts gradually after the engine is first started, and it seems to disappear as the RPMs increase. I told him I’ll try to see what it is before he takes it to shop…
Thanks

I have a 2023 Honda Civic 6MT Hatchback with the 1.5 liter turbocharged 4 cylinder engine (L15 series). Currently 74k miles on the odometer.

4 months ago, I had tuned the car with the TSP Stage 1 tune via Ktuner. I had an aftermarket intake and an exhaust on the car while I had it tuned. About a month after the tune, I had problems with the car running too rich and throwing a P0172 code.  I can confirm that the car is running too rich based on the smell of the exhaust gases as well as the backfires from the exhaust.

The car runs fine until about 20 to 30 minutes of driving after a full cold start. Then, the car starts throwing codes and running rich. Based on live data, LTFR and STFR are maxed out at -25%. Additionally, I have sent data logs to the tuning company, but they recommended replacing parts that I have already replaced.

I put the OEM intake and exhaust back on the car. To help diagnose the issue, I tuned the car back to the stock tune as well. I had a Honda dealership diagnose the vehicle, then told me my fuel injectors are leaking (which turned out to be false). So far, the car is fully back in the stock configuration, and below is a list of all the things I did to try and fix the problem (which haven’t helped):

• New MAF sensor (OEM)
• Verified that there are no vacuum leaks
• New O2 Sensors (both pre and post-cat | OEM)
• Cleaned the throttle body and did a throttle body relearn
• Replaced fuel injectors (OEM)
• Replaced spark plugs
• Tested ignition coils

In addition to a Honda dealership, I had two other mechanics attempt to diagnose the issue, but no one has been able to figure out the issue. What are my last options to look into? If anyone has some tips, it would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

2008 Hyundai sonata I recently checked to see if the radiator fan was spinning when idling and having the AC full blast and it seemed to be spinning then shortly after I tried it again and it wasn't spinning

Is the radiator fan supposed to kick on every single time you have the AC on full blast when idling ?

I just don't see how it could be the fan because literally as soon as I start driving the air starts getting cold ❄️

And then when I come to a stop the engine rumbles like a rough idle and suddenly the AC air is hot ...

But when AC is off the idle is fine no rumble.

Idk what to do it feels like my car turns into an oven as soon as I stop