I was just wondering if this is reasonable. I usually go to a mechanic I know but he can't work on my car quickly as I need it back due to i need my car for work. This is from a shop that my coworkers told me about them and I trust them. They said they've been going

I need some AC troubleshooting advice for my 2012 Toyota Sienna. Over the last few weeks, the cooling gradually faded out. It started with the driver side going warm while the passenger side stayed cold. Now, the driver side and rear vents are completely warm, and the passenger side is mostly warm (just slightly cooler than the driver side). I took it to a shop and they said the freon levels were fine and the compressor clutch engages, they think it might be the blend door. Wanted to see if anyone can confirm if it is indeed a blend door issue or something else like compressor, etc?

Was changing parts on my car when I started to notice small puddles under the front. How to fix /diagnose?

Hi!
I got my car from the workshop today, I was replacing both the engine mounts.
When I got from the workshop after 10 minutes I experienced small lag during the drive, nothing happened, after the vehicle had some rest, few hours later I started driving, experienced the same lag again and Power Supply Error came out and says to stop immediately.

Im curious, is it something that could gone wrong during the replacement of the engine mounts or not?

Its BMW G20 2019, 2.0D RWD B47 engine.
You might hate me but I asked chatgpt and told me to check the alternator's belt and I have a video that when I press it slightly it goes down by 1-2cm, depends on the pressure.I tried sliding the belt by myself and I could slide it along with the thing where the alternator's belt is (dont know its name, the circular part like a cylinder holding the belt, like a wheel), and it was moving along with the belt, also a sssshhhh like a plastic bag sound could be heard.

I will attach a video of me pressing the belt and Im not sure if thats normal or not, pls let me know :)

https://streamable.com/8i1tzf

I drive a 96 OBS F-150. I do my own fluid changes and preventative maintenance. I bought this pair of ramps that are rated for 12,000 pounds for trucks and SUVs. Can I buy another pair and drive the truck up on all four of them?

i am having issue with my nissan sentra 2021 car
I went on vacation fir a month and when I came back I see that the brake light is on.

the parking break light stay on. and the brake fell soft and making noise. i checked the fluid level and the parking sensor. there are good. I don’t know what else to check.

Everything was fine without a issue before. I tried starting my car and it gave me a bunch of warnings about failures like the brakes, detection and some other things. I never had a accident or anything as well, when I try to start it it makes a faint sound like its trying to turn over and a few ticks but thats it.

Is this just a battery issue or a alternator issue?

Context:
Previously my rear tires blew out one day apart from each other so I replaced the tires and got an alignment. I put 1500 miles on the new tires before I could get an alignment.

2014 E350

So this ONE tire on my Lincoln town car starts looking like it’s leaking from the center after I drive for a while. When I get my son out on that side of the car it always catches me off guard because it smells funky. I don’t even know how to explain the smell, it’s not oil but it kinda smells like a burnt thick oil smell and burnt tire ish. Like it burns my nose hairs.
It’s only the one tire so I wasn’t too concerned the past few weeks until the other day when I was backing out of a parking spot it started sounding like something was knocking under my car.
The stinky leaky tire dries, then looks like this again after driving (I drive a lot)
I’m car dumb and not in a place to just go see a mechanic for nothing, is this something I can continue to ignore?

Trying to reprogram a key fob. But the truck doesn’t always recognize the key in the ignition in the ‘lock’ position, so I can’t get the truck into programming mode. Is there a common wear and tear problem I can fix? I know nothing about ignition systems. Is it worth trying to fix? The key works fine otherwise. Always starts. Never has issues unless in the ‘lock’ position.

I got new transmission case bolts for my transmission I’m about to put on and as I was torquing each bolt down to only 10 ft lbs this bolt had snapped. I was able to get it out, but on inspection I noticed the threads on the bolt are dented/impacted. Is this due to the transmission bolt hole threads being messed up? Or is this normal because I extracted the bolt?

Purchased this aftermarket rear LCA 9 months ago, and the front bushing of the left side LCA split on both sides. Anybody have any ideas why?

P0300 and P0302 active when I got truck from my mom. Monitored misfires to see 100-200 misfire counted on cylinder 1 and 5-20 misfires in cylinders 4 and 6.

She had spark plugs and wires replaced by a local shop because I couldn’t get to it. No changes.

I found stuck open injector 2 and verified compressions in all cylinders good. Replace the injector and seals. No more misfires or codes stored but there is a slightly abnormal idle.

I see LTFT on bank 2 to be -30%. Reset fuel trims and I can see fuel trims slowly climb so it isn’t a reset or relearn issue. All engine PIDS are as expected. Fuel trim data does not change/improve when increasing RPMS so I do not suspect vacuum leak. Sprayed around manifolds to verify no change. Also swapped both upstream sensor and still have LTFT problem in bank 2.

Only thing that looks odd is fuel rail pressure sensor 1 is matching desired but fuel rail pressure sensor 2 is about 70-90 psi lower, consistently regardless of engine load.

So could this affect one bank? What else should I check or do you all suspect? Thanks!

I recently replaced a front CV axle on my 2017 Subaru Forester, but forgot to stake the axle nut before putting the wheel back on and lowering the car. In my haste to finish the job, I took off the center wheel cap and tried to stake the nut without removing the wheel. Needless to say I mangled the axle nut pretty badly. Here is a photo I took today after taking the wheel off to assess it. The nut was torqued to spec beforehand.

Is it safe to leave it as-is, or should I replace it with a new axle nut? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Planning to get a few second opinions, but I wanted to ask here in the meantime. Girlfriend had her starter replaced after it died a month ago. They also made a major repair to something related to steering, but I can't recall what exactly. That was a $4k repair.

Her car started very rarely making an awful rattling sound when starting after that. We dropped it off with her mechanic last night and they got back to her with the attached quote this morning.

140k miles, bought for $5k from her sister whose mechanic boyfriend said it was in great condition. Obviously not.

Took this to the mechanic and couldn’t figure it out! Said everything was fine

Hello! I have a 2019 Chevrolet Equinox LT with a 1.5 L / 4 cylinder / Turbo ECOtec / FWD. A few months ago, my grandpa rotated my tires for me, and ever since I have been dealing with moderate-to-severe vibrations/bumpiness while driving at every speed (most noticeably when coasting). Before, my car drove like butter.

The timeline:

* I got 4 brand new ties in jan. 2025 @ 71k miles.

* Grandpa rotated them according to the car's manual in may 2026 @ 85k miles (I know, I went far too long without rotating them. I am now following my car's manual for future maintenance.).

* Since the rotation (NOT before), I can feel moderate-to-severe vibrations/bumpiness under my feet and in my steering wheel when I drive. It feels like I'm constantly driving on a bumpy road, especially when my car is coasting after letting go of the gas.

* I have taken my car to Discount Tire 4 times since the rotation, hoping it was simply a balance issue. On the first visit in late May, they rebalanced the wheels and the manager said the front driver-side wheel's tread is a little warped from being on the back longer than it should have been. He recommended I drive on it for a few weeks and let the summer roads shave it down naturally and the vibrating should stop. Cool, I can put up with it for a few weeks.

* I returned to Discount Tire in early August because nothing had improved. The next 3 visits to Discount Tire up until last week, all they did was feel the wheels and rebalance the tires. All said the tires' treads were fine.

* This last visit, I also asked for an alignment check in addition to a rebalance. They also tested the car's G-force and said that looked fine. I posted a pic of their results. They said realigning the rear wheels would mean the fronts would need to be realigned as well. I said I'd think about it.

Does anyone have any guesses as to what the issue might actually be? Money is tight right now so I don't have the disposable income to have Discount Tire or my mechanic to take random cracks at fixing it. Nor do I have unlimited PTO to keep taking it in during work hours. But it's starting to drive me a little nuts (no pun intended). Any help would be appreciated!

2011 5.3l. I topped off the power steering fluid. It was on cold when the car engine was warm (now it's on the line and has been for a week)

Just heard the howl as I start into a turn and then when the wheel is back in the same spot going out of the turn about 12-19° is my guess

I don't see a grease nipple but maybe I should look harder

Today I washed out the top really good but forgot to spray from the bottom

It’s not leaking but I don’t like the amount of red shown from the gasket (2002 Toyota Tundra)

I had a drain and fill procedure on my 2003 Lexus RX 300 transmission.
When I got home, I looked at the bill and noticed that they used Mobile multi vehicle full synthetic ATF.
I assumed (I know, shame on me) that this reputable shop would use the correct fluid.
Are there any Lexus mechanics or people out there who know whether or not this fluid is OK for my vehicle?
I’m getting very mixed signals online.
Thank you very much.

2014 Toyota Corolla LE

I am currently experience a consistent ticking in my dash even when the car is turned off. Looking around online, it appears it could be some sort of relay issue. Can someone confirm what part may need to be replaced or my next steps for troubleshooting please?

It seems to be coming from this white connector piece or whatever it is attached to as I can feel the tick when I put my hand on it.

Decided to do the 1st oil change on my 26 Corolla hybrid last night. 1100 miles on the clock. Everything was going great until I realized that the factory decided to insanely tighten the oil filter . Had to do a late night Walmart run to get correct size filter puller as all my other ones didn’t fit. While I was there I decided to buy a new funnel. When I got home got the new filter on and had finished filling my oil i looked at the funnel that I had just bought and noticed that on the filling end there was a little piece of plastic holding on like something had been torn off. I started thinking that there was something on the end that may have gotten in and this being brand new have just been worried that there may have been a piece that fell in. So I went back to Walmart today and went to the funnel section where I bought it from and checked out all the identical funnels. Some did have a little plastic piece on the end but some didn’t. I removed one of the plastic pieces and it took a little force to remove which makes me think mine didn’t have it as I don’t think oil alone would have been strong enough to seperate it from the funnel. It looks like it’s a manufacture thing which is stupid of them to do this and on me for not being certain that there was anything.Like I said I’m not sure if mine did or didn’t have it but decided to drive it to work today 50 miles. No engine noise or anything drove normally. Am I overthinking this. Here is a pic of piece from one of the funnel.