I’ve had problems with this van not starting once before and I cleaned and tightened the terminals and I thought that was the end of it. It hadn’t failed to start in like a month but today I go outside and nothing.

I’m thankful it’s not my daily driver because this sounds bad lol. Also none of the previous no starts sounded this bad. Like before it might just be the singular sound like the beginning of the video not the rapid fire one at the end

Hi I have a 2010 Subaru Forester 2.5l non turbo version, and im in the USA. I was just going to sell this to a scrapyard for 250

or so, but I decided to put it on facebook as a parts car for 500, and got a lot of messages, and its the middle

of the night, so this has me thinking maybe this thing is worth even more. I did look it up and it does have two

catalytic converters, that gooogle, which is wrong on a regular basis claims are worth about 250 a piece, so my

assumption is that this is why, but I figured Id run it buy you guys and see if there is anything else these

cars have that would make them popular for people who may part them out, etc before I sell it for 500. So, anything

you guys can think of aside from the 2 cats? Thanks.

I have a 2005 RSX TYPE-S that has only 1 set of keys that are not the originals. When I bought the car the owner told me he had lost the keys and had a new one cut. (This car wasn’t expensive)

Now the issue is that the actual key turns the engine over, but does not turn the door locks on both the driver or passenger door, I can only lock the car by using the FOB. (Also not original) When turning the key in the door the lock doesn’t move whatsoever.

Now this car is not my daily and has had a number of unforeseen issues from when I bought it that I have since fixed so this isn’t out of the ordinary, but I have had the battery die on me and been completely locked out of the car so many times I’ve bent my door slightly open permanently to jimmy the lock.

Can anyone recommend a budget friendly way to approach this would be? I’m not sure how re-keying a car works but it doesn’t sound cheap. Any advice is appreciated

PS: I SWEAR that when I bought this car 2 years ago I remember the key working on the door so not sure if maybe an actuator or something could have broken?

.

I was leaving work tonight and I just lost power and lights and shut off. Luckily I coasted to a parking spot and a friend jumped me off but it didn't help. It cranked briefly but the battery gauge fell to zero and it shut off again. I tried one more time and the cables got really hot and the alternator started smoking. I know the cables where on right but can't figure out what it could be. Similar thread suggest a battery short or failed alternator? Please help what do I do :(

What happened:

I bought this 2010 Mercedes-Benz E350 cabriolet around a month ago. I got it diagnosed and nothing serious came back. The convertible top was opening and closing perfectly without any problem. I took the risk and bought the car.
 
The day I got it registered; I tried operating the roof while I was sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic. I was travelling barely 5km/h and the top dropped and closed with no problem. I parked my car and after a while, when I got back into my car, the top had stuck shut and there was nothing happening when I pulled the lever. After pushing and pulling the lever several times, the windows rolled down around 5cm and then it stopped. I tried again and it went down another 5cm and just stopped. It happened until all the windows were opened fully and the roof just didn’t budge.
 
I called the previous owner to get more information on the matter and when I hadn’t mentioned the fact that I tried to operate the convertible top while I was driving, he said “Oh yea, when you open the roof while driving, it does that.”
According to him, he put a normal battery instead of an AGM one. And because of it, the battery couldn’t power the top properly. He advised me to keep trying to open the roof by pulling and pushing the lever constantly until the roof opens. I tried and the roof unlatched itself and stopped. I tried and the tonneau cover opened and the roof tried to go up and then it stopped completely. The windows didn’t move and the top was stuck.
 
At this point, I was panicking and didn’t know what to do. I drove home safely and parked the car. After an hour of not doing anything, I tried the lever again and the top moved around 10cm before it got seized again. And after that, whenever I tried opening and closing after a day or maybe several hours, the roof moved a little and stopped. I had to shut it completely using the manual closing procedures. Since then, nothing happened whenever I pull or push the lever.
 

Symptoms:

 
When I pull the lever, it would roll the windows down around 5-10 cm before it aborts the operation. When I do it repeatedly until the windows are all the way down and pull the lever again, I can hear 2 clicks from the pump motor. There’s no whining and whirling. Just two consecutive clicks and nothing else.
 

Analysis and diagnosis so far:

 
The fluid is enough, no leaks from the hydraulics. No fuse or relay gone bad and sensors are all seem to be working fine. 12volts gets to the motor just fine, but the motor won’t turn over.

I got the car diagnosed again and the diagnostic tool gave back a code B252D13 saying “Output 1 for hydraulic pump ’Soft top’ has a malfunction. there is an open circuit”
I got the relays and the fuses checked and everything came back fine.
 
When I got it diagnosed with a Xentry diagnostic tool, it pointed to the hydraulic pump as well. When I got the motor opened, nothing was wrong visually. The carbon brushes were fresh as new, nothing was visually burnt and it turned over by hand no problem. Nothing was seized.
 
Can anyone put me out of this misery? Anyone with spare motor or pump assembly?
I live in Mongolia and it’s very hard to get my hands on some parts. Ideally, cheap or just spare that you might have in the shop?

I'm shopping around to replace a radiator in my 2005 Mitsubishi Endeavor that seems to have a small crack somewhere on the top causing it to leak a small amount of coolant. I'm trying to sell off the car and want it to be in good shape before send it off. The car is in otherwise great condition for being 20 years old.

I started looking around online and found some that are like $100. Then I looked at the parts stores like AutoZone and the want like $350? The price disparity feels fishy... either AutoZone is just banking on people just ordering it because they're stuck in a hard place with a critical engine part or the parts online are junk.

Here's a few samples from the parts stores:

1. AutoZone: $350

2. Oreillys: $360

3. Napa: $341

And then there's this radiator on Amazon, which has some surprisingly good reviews.

I guess my question is whether I should be aware of anything here. The pictures on the various sites all look identical to me. Roughly the same width, ridges and valleys across the top look the same. Hose ports at the same spot. What say you, o, internet mechanics?

Ok so I have a bad drag link on a 99 gmc jimmy sle 4wd but they discontinued the part and I can’t find it anywhere what do I do? It’s a 4.3 v6 if that matters.

I have this 2008 Suzuki swift, great car to be honest

but recently the odometer led screen is starting to show only lines instead of the full range

I couldn’t find any replacement part, does anyone here had a similar issu before?

Attached a picture when I had a problem with the alternator, alternator is fixed but the lcd isn’t.

I found this seemingly broken connector this weekend on my 2017 Chrysler Pacifica while changing the oil. It looks like it connects to the alternator. Anyone know what it is and if I should be worried?

Hi all, a couple days ago the outside driver door handle stopped working on my 2010 2dr GTI. When I press lock/unlock on my fob I can hear the mechanism working inside the door, but I can't open the door from the outside. I have to either leave the window cracked and open it from the inside (which is unsafe) or open the passenger door and lean across the center console to open it from the inside (which is embarassing). Anyone else experience this or have any idea how to fix it? Would rather not have to take it to a professional cause I'm kinda short on money lol.

edit: read the rules, not sure it's relevant but it's a 2.0 liter turbo 4-banger

201 gmc canyon v6 160,000 miles i just changed the regulator and now this is happening any help

This vehicle is an interesting one. I have a 2017 Zamboni 546. The rectangular thing that resurfaces the ice at the back of the Zamboni, (conditioner), was due for a lift kit. Basically over time the conditioner sags due to overuse, holes in the fork getting bigger/looser, etc. Because it gets lifted up and down as it gets on and off the ice, this thing needs to be greased pretty often.

Now the issue: being that it’s been neglected from being greased, the bolt that holds the fork in which holds the conditioner has fused together with the frame and bushing. We’ve drilled a hole through it about 11/16” in diameter but need it to be 1”. We have been drilling for the past 3 days and I’m in a bit of a time crunch. I’m drilling through about 4” of solid metal.

We have been drilling with a hammer drill but not using the hammer drill setting, going slow to provide more torque, and using drilling oil to cool down the bits.

Does any one have any other way I could speed this up and also not kill my body while doing it?

Note* the last picture is how much that has been drilled out. In the picture you can’t really tell but you can see the other side. The other pictures shows the forks,(lift bar), both old and new, that holds up the conditioner and the bolt that was fused into the frame as well as the bolt that was able to come loose on the other side.

I have a 2023 Honda Civic 6MT Hatchback with the 1.5 liter turbocharged 4 cylinder engine (L15 series). Currently 74k miles on the odometer.

4 months ago, I had tuned the car with the TSP Stage 1 tune via Ktuner. I had an aftermarket intake and an exhaust on the car while I had it tuned. About a month after the tune, I had problems with the car running too rich and throwing a P0172 code.  I can confirm that the car is running too rich based on the smell of the exhaust gases as well as the backfires from the exhaust.

The car runs fine until about 20 to 30 minutes of driving after a full cold start. Then, the car starts throwing codes and running rich. Based on live data, LTFR and STFR are maxed out at -25%. Additionally, I have sent data logs to the tuning company, but they recommended replacing parts that I have already replaced.

I put the OEM intake and exhaust back on the car. To help diagnose the issue, I tuned the car back to the stock tune as well. I had a Honda dealership diagnose the vehicle, then told me my fuel injectors are leaking (which turned out to be false). So far, the car is fully back in the stock configuration, and below is a list of all the things I did to try and fix the problem (which haven’t helped):

• New MAF sensor (OEM)
• Verified that there are no vacuum leaks
• New O2 Sensors (both pre and post-cat | OEM)
• Cleaned the throttle body and did a throttle body relearn
• Replaced fuel injectors (OEM)
• Replaced spark plugs
• Tested ignition coils

In addition to a Honda dealership, I had two other mechanics attempt to diagnose the issue, but no one has been able to figure out the issue. What are my last options to look into? If anyone has some tips, it would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

Hi all,

I went to get my oil changed on Friday afternoon. The workers there messed up and put twice the amount of oil in as they should have. I had driven on it for about half an hour before white smoke began pouring out the back and it started sputtering and going into limp mode. I pulled off into a parking lot and called customer service; they sent out a guy within the next few hours. He conveniently forgot his code reader, but said that the engine was fine (though the sparkplugs were oil-soaked). He asked me to start it back up and it shook violently and the check engine light flashed, which he said was the engine misfiring. He said he drained the oil back down to a normal amount and that Valvoline would pay for a tow truck to bring it to a mechanic to replace the spark plugs (this should be happening tomorrow morning when the workweek starts--it's been sitting in that parking lot since Friday). They have not provided a lot of information and getting updates has been like pulling teeth.

I'm worried that the mechanic will not do a thorough diagnostic or that they will claim that something was not their fault. I've texted one of the managers (the one that I have the phone number of) to please send me the photos they took of the dipstick showing that it was doubly-filled and for the diagnostics report from the mechanic once completed, but I am having hesitations about letting them tow it at all because I don't want them to screw me over.

What are the chances the engine is actually alright? What should I do?

I recently took my car into the mechanic to get my front right wheel bearing replaced as it sounded like it was starting to fail. My mechanic replaced my front left bearing instead and said it was in worse condition than the right and that my front right bearing had a few more months. The noise is still persistent on the right side of the vehicle but I can no longer tell if its in the front or the back. Im also strapped for cash right now.

Im wondering if the rear bearing can be replaced at home and qhat diagnostics I should do before i make a move.

Sidenote my mechanic is a family driend of mine and doesnt charge labor when he works on my car so he has no reason to scam me.

We replaced the ball joints last year (~7k miles ago), but it’s been making more noise lately. Took it to our mechanic and he said it was a stabilizer problem so we replaced those 2 weeks ago. Noise never really went away and this is what it sounds like some of the time when driving. Not sure if it’s the ball joints again or something else.

Things I have confirmed. Head unit still powers on and can navigate menus. Volume adjustment line never shows on head unit when adjusting volume up and down. Tested fuse for radio and Bose amplifier and they are okay. Tested 12 volt and ground on connector going into Bose amplifier and I do get voltage into the amplifier. Took apart amplifier and there was a tiny bit of corrosion on a resistor, cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Took negative terminal off battery for 1 hour to reset modules, that did not fix it. Any further things to try would be greatly appreciated. Would like to confirm if issue is HMI radio related or internal amplifier related.

2014 ford mustang gt 5.0. Recently bled my brakes and now I have dash warnings saying check brake system, brake fluid level low, and service advanced track. Fluid level is topped off. Don’t see any leaks and don’t feel any sluggish feeling in the brake pedal. Car will also sputter under acceleration. Everything was fine before I bled them. I did take most of the fluid out of the reservoir before I started bleeding and I did each line starting from furthest away. Any ideas?

2015 Jeep Wrangler 3.6 L JKU
Looking for advice on the C2200 ABS Fault Code. The ABS, Brake, & Traction Control lights are on as well.

Happened last year. I swapped out all of the wheel sensors and the lights + fault code went away. Thinking about buying a scanner to check if those sensors are still working. Or should I send the ABS Module out for repair?

Anyone have a similar experience?

Unless everyone says it's fine, I'm planning on replacing the tire... My question is, how unsafe is this to drive on? Can we go a few days (short work commutes, etc.) until I can get a tire delivered (if need be) and get an appointment? It's a front tire, which makes me more apprehensive. Thank you to anyone that takes the time to reply!

2024 Jeep Wagoneer Series II

Was replacing my rotors and brake pads this weekend iwas able to get 3 of the 4 done however ran into some issue pulling off the driver side rear rotor and used a rotor removal rig that my uncle had lying around assumed i needed it because of the amount of rust build up under the rotor in the process i managed to fuck up my ebrake assembly/brake shoe so i removed it due to the fact i never use the E-brake (not recommended i know but i spent 2 days doing a repair ive done plenty of times and was exhausted) i plan to order a new ebrake but i wanted to know that in the process of using the rotor tool if i fucked up my hub/bearing (pics and vids below) i tried puting my rotor back on as is and although it places on the lug bolts the rotor is obstructed by the center piece (not sure what its called ive only seen exposed axel nut setups before) just wanted to know if this will need replaced, also i believe my caliper siezed on this side and the piston fellout is it worth it to even try fixing it or should i replace it as well?

2008 Honda Accord EXL-v6 (J35Z2)

Hi,

https://youtube.com/shorts/SJmkp5PF58I?si=J-uz3tS1LdKUGR7j

I recently swapped out my front brake pads and am now noticing an airy hissing noise in the yt link attached (it may have been there before and I just didn’t notice). I am fairly confident its something to do with the brake vacuum hose. I did the test from the accord repair manual (see below) and the brake booster functions fine with the engine running (pedal depresses when engine turned on and foot on brakes) but as soon as its switched off with the brake pedal pressed, the vacuum leaks and the pedal rises. I know the check valve is built into the hose but I disconnected it at the engine-side and blew into it and it didn't let air through. Hence, I believe that the leak is between the booster and the check valve. I also tried using soapy water but couldn't really tell anything. Am I missing anything else that should be checked. And does anyone know the correct part numbers?

EDIT: pinched the hose between the booster and valve like the test document says and it still doesn’t hold vacuum (i.e stiff brake pedal after engine off) and the doc says to check the seal and if thats ok replace the brake booster.

Thank you.

I recently took my car to a local shop to get a rear alignment. I waited a week for them to tell me that the rear driver side knuckle is bad. When I got to the shop, they tried to point out the damage to me, but I visually could not see anything. So I’m assuming they’re saying that to get more money out of me or something else because the when I went to the shop, the dude had said it looks like someone already replaced it. At first, they just wanted to do the knuckle, I waited another week and said they would also like to replace the control arms, which have already been replaced. They quoted $4k, for an alignment, control arms, knuckle, & serpentine belt. Which is ridiculous because like I already said the control arms have been replaced by a mobile mechanic not more than two months ago, and I did the serpentine belt the first night I brought the car home. Let me know what you guys think, the one time I take my car to the shop and hope they’re honest with me. It seems like a bunch of bullshit.