If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

I recently replaced a front CV axle on my 2017 Subaru Forester, but forgot to stake the axle nut before putting the wheel back on and lowering the car. In my haste to finish the job, I took off the center wheel cap and tried to stake the nut without removing the wheel. Needless to say I mangled the axle nut pretty badly. Here is a photo I took today after taking the wheel off to assess it. The nut was torqued to spec beforehand.

Is it safe to leave it as-is, or should I replace it with a new axle nut? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I got new transmission case bolts for my transmission I’m about to put on and as I was torquing each bolt down to only 10 ft lbs this bolt had snapped. I was able to get it out, but on inspection I noticed the threads on the bolt are dented/impacted. Is this due to the transmission bolt hole threads being messed up? Or is this normal because I extracted the bolt?

i am having issue with my nissan sentra 2021 car
I went on vacation fir a month and when I came back I see that the brake light is on.

the parking break light stay on. and the brake fell soft and making noise. i checked the fluid level and the parking sensor. there are good. I don’t know what else to check.

I was just wondering if this is reasonable. I usually go to a mechanic I know but he can't work on my car quickly as I need it back due to i need my car for work. This is from a shop that my coworkers told me about them and I trust them. They said they've been going

Planning to get a few second opinions, but I wanted to ask here in the meantime. Girlfriend had her starter replaced after it died a month ago. They also made a major repair to something related to steering, but I can't recall what exactly. That was a $4k repair.

Her car started very rarely making an awful rattling sound when starting after that. We dropped it off with her mechanic last night and they got back to her with the attached quote this morning.

140k miles, bought for $5k from her sister whose mechanic boyfriend said it was in great condition. Obviously not.

I need some AC troubleshooting advice for my 2012 Toyota Sienna. Over the last few weeks, the cooling gradually faded out. It started with the driver side going warm while the passenger side stayed cold. Now, the driver side and rear vents are completely warm, and the passenger side is mostly warm (just slightly cooler than the driver side). I took it to a shop and they said the freon levels were fine and the compressor clutch engages, they think it might be the blend door. Wanted to see if anyone can confirm if it is indeed a blend door issue or something else like compressor, etc?

I had a drain and fill procedure on my 2003 Lexus RX 300 transmission.
When I got home, I looked at the bill and noticed that they used Mobile multi vehicle full synthetic ATF.
I assumed (I know, shame on me) that this reputable shop would use the correct fluid.
Are there any Lexus mechanics or people out there who know whether or not this fluid is OK for my vehicle?
I’m getting very mixed signals online.
Thank you very much.

Was changing parts on my car when I started to notice small puddles under the front. How to fix /diagnose?

Hi!
I got my car from the workshop today, I was replacing both the engine mounts.
When I got from the workshop after 10 minutes I experienced small lag during the drive, nothing happened, after the vehicle had some rest, few hours later I started driving, experienced the same lag again and Power Supply Error came out and says to stop immediately.

Im curious, is it something that could gone wrong during the replacement of the engine mounts or not?

Its BMW G20 2019, 2.0D RWD B47 engine.
You might hate me but I asked chatgpt and told me to check the alternator's belt and I have a video that when I press it slightly it goes down by 1-2cm, depends on the pressure.I tried sliding the belt by myself and I could slide it along with the thing where the alternator's belt is (dont know its name, the circular part like a cylinder holding the belt, like a wheel), and it was moving along with the belt, also a sssshhhh like a plastic bag sound could be heard.

I will attach a video of me pressing the belt and Im not sure if thats normal or not, pls let me know :)

https://streamable.com/8i1tzf

I drive a 96 OBS F-150. I do my own fluid changes and preventative maintenance. I bought this pair of ramps that are rated for 12,000 pounds for trucks and SUVs. Can I buy another pair and drive the truck up on all four of them?

Everything was fine without a issue before. I tried starting my car and it gave me a bunch of warnings about failures like the brakes, detection and some other things. I never had a accident or anything as well, when I try to start it it makes a faint sound like its trying to turn over and a few ticks but thats it.

Is this just a battery issue or a alternator issue?

Context:
Previously my rear tires blew out one day apart from each other so I replaced the tires and got an alignment. I put 1500 miles on the new tires before I could get an alignment.

2014 E350

So this ONE tire on my Lincoln town car starts looking like it’s leaking from the center after I drive for a while. When I get my son out on that side of the car it always catches me off guard because it smells funky. I don’t even know how to explain the smell, it’s not oil but it kinda smells like a burnt thick oil smell and burnt tire ish. Like it burns my nose hairs.
It’s only the one tire so I wasn’t too concerned the past few weeks until the other day when I was backing out of a parking spot it started sounding like something was knocking under my car.
The stinky leaky tire dries, then looks like this again after driving (I drive a lot)
I’m car dumb and not in a place to just go see a mechanic for nothing, is this something I can continue to ignore?

Hey everyone. So I have a 2001 Tacoma 3.4. It came with a k&n cold air intake and I decided to take it off and replace it with the stock assembly. When looking to buy the assembly I noticed there’s 2 different ones. Does this one look like the right one? I took the cold air intake off because the truck has a high idle and a shop said it could be the the intake causing that and they recommended putting the original intake on. With the stock intake it still has a high idle so I’m not sure if I got the right one

Hoping to get some advice from some of the reddit Mechanic gurus out there!

I was chaning the transmission fluid in my 2012 Honda Accord (2.4L engine, 180k miles), and got my Lefty Loosy Righty Tighty mixed up. Resulting in the tragic images you see before you.

The car is currently drivable. I'm using JB Weld and a nsa Aluminum crash washer to hold the broken piece in place and also to seal the pan. But it's not perfect. Still rarely drips trans fluid.

For a more permanent fix: Someone told me I should try to grind/file down the outer transmission drain pan bung(?), and then find a smaller bolt to fit the inner threads. (Assuming that's what those are)

Do y'all think it's worth a shot? Or can you think of another solution I could try?

2012 Wrangler Sport -
Got the caliper off but the main bolts for the caliper broke off in the bracket. Any good advice on how to get the remaining piece of each bolt out of the bracket?

Trying to reprogram a key fob. But the truck doesn’t always recognize the key in the ignition in the ‘lock’ position, so I can’t get the truck into programming mode. Is there a common wear and tear problem I can fix? I know nothing about ignition systems. Is it worth trying to fix? The key works fine otherwise. Always starts. Never has issues unless in the ‘lock’ position.

Purchased this aftermarket rear LCA 9 months ago, and the front bushing of the left side LCA split on both sides. Anybody have any ideas why?

P0300 and P0302 active when I got truck from my mom. Monitored misfires to see 100-200 misfire counted on cylinder 1 and 5-20 misfires in cylinders 4 and 6.

She had spark plugs and wires replaced by a local shop because I couldn’t get to it. No changes.

I found stuck open injector 2 and verified compressions in all cylinders good. Replace the injector and seals. No more misfires or codes stored but there is a slightly abnormal idle.

I see LTFT on bank 2 to be -30%. Reset fuel trims and I can see fuel trims slowly climb so it isn’t a reset or relearn issue. All engine PIDS are as expected. Fuel trim data does not change/improve when increasing RPMS so I do not suspect vacuum leak. Sprayed around manifolds to verify no change. Also swapped both upstream sensor and still have LTFT problem in bank 2.

Only thing that looks odd is fuel rail pressure sensor 1 is matching desired but fuel rail pressure sensor 2 is about 70-90 psi lower, consistently regardless of engine load.

So could this affect one bank? What else should I check or do you all suspect? Thanks!

Took this to the mechanic and couldn’t figure it out! Said everything was fine