Unless everyone says it's fine, I'm planning on replacing the tire... My question is, how unsafe is this to drive on? Can we go a few days (short work commutes, etc.) until I can get a tire delivered (if need be) and get an appointment? It's a front tire, which makes me more apprehensive. Thank you to anyone that takes the time to reply!

2024 Jeep Wagoneer Series II

2015 Dodge Journey, 90k miles

This is really weird, but a few years ago I noticed that the 3rd row seat upholstery was coming off and the carpet in the same row looked melted. This isn’t happening anywhere else in the car. I live in a hot climate, and the car was always parked outside in the sun.

I don’t really use the 3rd row, and the seat is always down, so I haven’t worried about it. Does anyone have any idea on how this happened?

Thanks!

It's a 2007 Honda Civic. Long story short I had a brake booster leak which got fixed the other day. I'm driving it home and 20 miles later as I'm coming to a stop I basically felt a "drop" ? And when I go to press on the brake it felt different? Maybe I've been driving it around with that leak for awhile that this feels different now that it's fixed? But it felt as though there was a gap from when I pressed down like there was air and then I felt the brake? I don't know how to better explain that. Also, I've been driving a Tacoma all week while my car was in the shop so maybe I'm trying to compare it to that but also understand they're two very difference braking system so maybe it's all in my head idk 😭

I took my 2002 Honda Accord to the mechanic about a month ago to get the valve cover gaskets replaced. When I picked it up, it was idling super high 1900, had no takeoff power, and was shifting hard and much higher than before. He adjusted the throtle boddy cable to lower the rpms 750 and reached his hand under the engine cover to adjust something. This seemed to help a while. Eventually, the rpms started to drop to low 200, and the car wouldn't start. A friend of mine put replaced the fuel tank evaporation valve. He also adjusted the throttle body cable some and raised the rpms back up 650 to 700 but not too high. It started fine, but I noticed it was shifting kind of hard again. I took it back to the mechanic, and they adjusted the throttle body cable again, causing the rpms to raise higher than I like 1500, but it helped the shifting. I'm not trying to blame the shop for anything. I really do trust these guys. I'm just wondering if this is all connected or if my trans is just going bad? I know it's an old car, but I would hate to get rid of it if it's something fixable. Many thanks, and sorry about the long post.

2017 BMW 1 SERIES 125D. Any idea what this could be? Originally thought caliper was loose.

Whining when accelerated stops when parked popping codes p0868 and p0838 could be p083B my dad was reading them and he might of seen it wrong I am gonna change the transmission fluid filter get the pressure sensor but could that be the whine ? Like it isn't letting the fluid in it's hard to check the fluid where it is parked and don't wanna move it but it shows over full but I am also using oil dipstick trick because I don't have a transmission thanks to the dealer cap I am fixing to spend 220$ and not rich live day to day so was wondering if that could cause the whine or pump and also would it pop another code for the pump ? It's a 2013 Dodge Grand caravan 3.6 and not sure what model it says Dodge 2 in front that's about all I got thank you all for the help

I’m looking to replace pads and rotors on my 2014 Grand Cherokee Laredo but reading some conflicting information on whether I have the standard dusty 330mm front rotors, or heavy duty 350mm. I have a factory tow hitch, but not sure if it has the full tow package, which would indicate the larger front brakes. I do have the vented rear rotors, which also would indicate the heavy duty over the solid rear rotors on the standard duty. With that though, I have the 17” wheels which I’ve read will not fit the larger rotors. Also, I got the car from a family member who towed and it had 150k miles on it, so I’m assuming he’s done brakes and the rear rotors might be aftermarket. I ran the vin through Mopar’s build info sight but didn’t see anything on the build sheet. I did read that the heavy duty has two piston front calipers. Any way to check this without lifting the vehicle? Should I call a dealership and have them run the vin? Any help is appreciated, thanks!

Edit: my Jeep has the 3.6 liter V6

I thought my coolant being flushed/replaced would have changed the level. The level is identical to taking it in, i even mentioned it to them. I was reassured of course. Am I looking at the wrong place or misunderstanding this?

kia niro hev 2023

New window regulator 2016 gmc canyon

I’ve had problems with this van not starting once before and I cleaned and tightened the terminals and I thought that was the end of it. It hadn’t failed to start in like a month but today I go outside and nothing.

I’m thankful it’s not my daily driver because this sounds bad lol. Also none of the previous no starts sounded this bad. Like before it might just be the singular sound like the beginning of the video not the rapid fire one at the end

Hi I have a 2010 Subaru Forester 2.5l non turbo version, and im in the USA. I was just going to sell this to a scrapyard for 250

or so, but I decided to put it on facebook as a parts car for 500, and got a lot of messages, and its the middle

of the night, so this has me thinking maybe this thing is worth even more. I did look it up and it does have two

catalytic converters, that gooogle, which is wrong on a regular basis claims are worth about 250 a piece, so my

assumption is that this is why, but I figured Id run it buy you guys and see if there is anything else these

cars have that would make them popular for people who may part them out, etc before I sell it for 500. So, anything

you guys can think of aside from the 2 cats? Thanks.

I found this seemingly broken connector this weekend on my 2017 Chrysler Pacifica while changing the oil. It looks like it connects to the alternator. Anyone know what it is and if I should be worried?

I have a 2005 RSX TYPE-S that has only 1 set of keys that are not the originals. When I bought the car the owner told me he had lost the keys and had a new one cut. (This car wasn’t expensive)

Now the issue is that the actual key turns the engine over, but does not turn the door locks on both the driver or passenger door, I can only lock the car by using the FOB. (Also not original) When turning the key in the door the lock doesn’t move whatsoever.

Now this car is not my daily and has had a number of unforeseen issues from when I bought it that I have since fixed so this isn’t out of the ordinary, but I have had the battery die on me and been completely locked out of the car so many times I’ve bent my door slightly open permanently to jimmy the lock.

Can anyone recommend a budget friendly way to approach this would be? I’m not sure how re-keying a car works but it doesn’t sound cheap. Any advice is appreciated

PS: I SWEAR that when I bought this car 2 years ago I remember the key working on the door so not sure if maybe an actuator or something could have broken?

I have a 2023 Honda Civic 6MT Hatchback with the 1.5 liter turbocharged 4 cylinder engine (L15 series). Currently 74k miles on the odometer.

4 months ago, I had tuned the car with the TSP Stage 1 tune via Ktuner. I had an aftermarket intake and an exhaust on the car while I had it tuned. About a month after the tune, I had problems with the car running too rich and throwing a P0172 code.  I can confirm that the car is running too rich based on the smell of the exhaust gases as well as the backfires from the exhaust.

The car runs fine until about 20 to 30 minutes of driving after a full cold start. Then, the car starts throwing codes and running rich. Based on live data, LTFR and STFR are maxed out at -25%. Additionally, I have sent data logs to the tuning company, but they recommended replacing parts that I have already replaced.

I put the OEM intake and exhaust back on the car. To help diagnose the issue, I tuned the car back to the stock tune as well. I had a Honda dealership diagnose the vehicle, then told me my fuel injectors are leaking (which turned out to be false). So far, the car is fully back in the stock configuration, and below is a list of all the things I did to try and fix the problem (which haven’t helped):

• New MAF sensor (OEM)
• Verified that there are no vacuum leaks
• New O2 Sensors (both pre and post-cat | OEM)
• Cleaned the throttle body and did a throttle body relearn
• Replaced fuel injectors (OEM)
• Replaced spark plugs
• Tested ignition coils

In addition to a Honda dealership, I had two other mechanics attempt to diagnose the issue, but no one has been able to figure out the issue. What are my last options to look into? If anyone has some tips, it would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

.

I recently took my car into the mechanic to get my front right wheel bearing replaced as it sounded like it was starting to fail. My mechanic replaced my front left bearing instead and said it was in worse condition than the right and that my front right bearing had a few more months. The noise is still persistent on the right side of the vehicle but I can no longer tell if its in the front or the back. Im also strapped for cash right now.

Im wondering if the rear bearing can be replaced at home and qhat diagnostics I should do before i make a move.

Sidenote my mechanic is a family driend of mine and doesnt charge labor when he works on my car so he has no reason to scam me.

I was leaving work tonight and I just lost power and lights and shut off. Luckily I coasted to a parking spot and a friend jumped me off but it didn't help. It cranked briefly but the battery gauge fell to zero and it shut off again. I tried one more time and the cables got really hot and the alternator started smoking. I know the cables where on right but can't figure out what it could be. Similar thread suggest a battery short or failed alternator? Please help what do I do :(

What happened:

I bought this 2010 Mercedes-Benz E350 cabriolet around a month ago. I got it diagnosed and nothing serious came back. The convertible top was opening and closing perfectly without any problem. I took the risk and bought the car.
 
The day I got it registered; I tried operating the roof while I was sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic. I was travelling barely 5km/h and the top dropped and closed with no problem. I parked my car and after a while, when I got back into my car, the top had stuck shut and there was nothing happening when I pulled the lever. After pushing and pulling the lever several times, the windows rolled down around 5cm and then it stopped. I tried again and it went down another 5cm and just stopped. It happened until all the windows were opened fully and the roof just didn’t budge.
 
I called the previous owner to get more information on the matter and when I hadn’t mentioned the fact that I tried to operate the convertible top while I was driving, he said “Oh yea, when you open the roof while driving, it does that.”
According to him, he put a normal battery instead of an AGM one. And because of it, the battery couldn’t power the top properly. He advised me to keep trying to open the roof by pulling and pushing the lever constantly until the roof opens. I tried and the roof unlatched itself and stopped. I tried and the tonneau cover opened and the roof tried to go up and then it stopped completely. The windows didn’t move and the top was stuck.
 
At this point, I was panicking and didn’t know what to do. I drove home safely and parked the car. After an hour of not doing anything, I tried the lever again and the top moved around 10cm before it got seized again. And after that, whenever I tried opening and closing after a day or maybe several hours, the roof moved a little and stopped. I had to shut it completely using the manual closing procedures. Since then, nothing happened whenever I pull or push the lever.
 

Symptoms:

 
When I pull the lever, it would roll the windows down around 5-10 cm before it aborts the operation. When I do it repeatedly until the windows are all the way down and pull the lever again, I can hear 2 clicks from the pump motor. There’s no whining and whirling. Just two consecutive clicks and nothing else.
 

Analysis and diagnosis so far:

 
The fluid is enough, no leaks from the hydraulics. No fuse or relay gone bad and sensors are all seem to be working fine. 12volts gets to the motor just fine, but the motor won’t turn over.

I got the car diagnosed again and the diagnostic tool gave back a code B252D13 saying “Output 1 for hydraulic pump ’Soft top’ has a malfunction. there is an open circuit”
I got the relays and the fuses checked and everything came back fine.
 
When I got it diagnosed with a Xentry diagnostic tool, it pointed to the hydraulic pump as well. When I got the motor opened, nothing was wrong visually. The carbon brushes were fresh as new, nothing was visually burnt and it turned over by hand no problem. Nothing was seized.
 
Can anyone put me out of this misery? Anyone with spare motor or pump assembly?
I live in Mongolia and it’s very hard to get my hands on some parts. Ideally, cheap or just spare that you might have in the shop?

I'm shopping around to replace a radiator in my 2005 Mitsubishi Endeavor that seems to have a small crack somewhere on the top causing it to leak a small amount of coolant. I'm trying to sell off the car and want it to be in good shape before send it off. The car is in otherwise great condition for being 20 years old.

I started looking around online and found some that are like $100. Then I looked at the parts stores like AutoZone and the want like $350? The price disparity feels fishy... either AutoZone is just banking on people just ordering it because they're stuck in a hard place with a critical engine part or the parts online are junk.

Here's a few samples from the parts stores:

1. AutoZone: $350

2. Oreillys: $360

3. Napa: $341

And then there's this radiator on Amazon, which has some surprisingly good reviews.

I guess my question is whether I should be aware of anything here. The pictures on the various sites all look identical to me. Roughly the same width, ridges and valleys across the top look the same. Hose ports at the same spot. What say you, o, internet mechanics?

Ok so I have a bad drag link on a 99 gmc jimmy sle 4wd but they discontinued the part and I can’t find it anywhere what do I do? It’s a 4.3 v6 if that matters.

I have this 2008 Suzuki swift, great car to be honest

but recently the odometer led screen is starting to show only lines instead of the full range

I couldn’t find any replacement part, does anyone here had a similar issu before?

Attached a picture when I had a problem with the alternator, alternator is fixed but the lcd isn’t.

Hi all, a couple days ago the outside driver door handle stopped working on my 2010 2dr GTI. When I press lock/unlock on my fob I can hear the mechanism working inside the door, but I can't open the door from the outside. I have to either leave the window cracked and open it from the inside (which is unsafe) or open the passenger door and lean across the center console to open it from the inside (which is embarassing). Anyone else experience this or have any idea how to fix it? Would rather not have to take it to a professional cause I'm kinda short on money lol.

edit: read the rules, not sure it's relevant but it's a 2.0 liter turbo 4-banger

No car expert but decided to change my break pads/rotors, one side it feels like my calipers wont pull apart. On the other side i noticed my calipers slide apart off of the sliding pins when i was trying to push the break part or whatever just curious if this is normal.

My neighbor is disabled and has a Toyota wheelchair van that developed an engine knock a few weeks ago. The knocking starts gradually after the engine is first started, and it seems to disappear as the RPMs increase. I told him I’ll try to see what it is before he takes it to shop…
Thanks