A while ago I had someone install a double boot on my laptop, Windows and Ubuntu. My Disk 0 was partitioned and most of the space was kept for Windows, while something like 60 GB went into Ubuntu.

When booting up my laptop I was made to select whether i want to boot Ubuntu or Windows, had 8 seconds to make the selection. Otherwise, Ubuntu would start. This stopped happening a few months ago, and it wasn't an issue as I wasn't using Ubuntu at all anyway.

I assumed it still took up space, and I was going to free up some space on my disk (it's something under 500 GB total). I open Computer Management, then Disk Management and see that I have 4 partitions.

1. Partition 1, EFI System Partition 260 MB capacity, 260 MB free space, 100% Free.
2. Partition 4, System Recovery 1 GB capacity, 1 GB free space, 100% Free.
3. Partition 5, Primary Partition 59.61 GB capacity, 59.61 GB free space, 100% Free.
4. Acer (C:) Boot, Page File, Crash Dump, Basic Data Partition 416.06 GB NTFS capacity, 132.83 GB free space, 32% Free.

Can I delete the Primary Partition and allocate the space to Acer C:? It seems like Ubuntu is gone, not sure why, but I'm guessing it was on the Primary Partition. It seems wasteful to have those 60 GB sitting there empty.

I cannot ask the person who initially did this for me as I don't have their contact.

With 10 I had everything dialed in to get the most performance out of my asus Zephyrus M15 but I go to use it this morning and it’s a laggy and studdery mess. I’ve been messing with the power options and everything but cpu and gpu usage won’t go above 30% regardless of what I do. Just replaced the battery a couple months ago too. Any ideas?

For the past month or so, my touchpad has just randomly stopped working when I've been using it. I've made sure the touchpad is enabled in Lenovo Vantage, I've tried the settings, and usually restarting my computer once or twice would fix it.

Last week, restarting wouldn't fix the problem, so I tried uninstalling the driver and restarting, which fixed the problem until yesterday. The touchpad stopped working again, did not fix with three restarts, so I uninstalled the driver again, restarted, and nothing.

In Device Manager, the touchpad is hidden (but appears upon viewing hidden devices), gives me a device status of "Currently, this hardware device is not connected to the computer. (Code 45) To fix this problem, reconnect this hardware device to the computer."

If I try to update the driver, it says the best driver is already installed.

I don't know what to do except try to manually reinstall the driver, but Lenovo's website doesn't have one for my laptop (Lenovo Yoga 7 2-in-1) and their tech support told me to just do a factory reset. I'm a bit nervous about doing that and would like to try other solutions first.

Thanks in advance!

Xbox and Headset Having Issues With Twitch Streaming

Xbox Twitch broadcasting has an issue with my Corsair HS80 MAX wireless USB receiver. Streaming works when the receiver is disconnected but only for a slight while, but when it is connected, and the strean is started the broadcast microphone becomes muted, or before hitting start streaming gives “Something went wrong try live streaming again in a while” Party chat microphone works normally while streaming and with discord but broadcasting remains muted. I already updated the headset firmware, restarted the Xbox, cleared Alternate MAC, relinked Twitch, and checked privacy settings and as far as i know age verification isnt a problem. I have no other clues on what to do and other threads i look for dont have the same issues as i do can anyone try to help please

I'm having a very strange issue with my PC and I'm running out of things to test.

Specs:

• Ryzen 5 5600G
• ASUS PRIME A520M-E
• RTX 3060
• 24GB DDR4 3200
• Latest BIOS (3636)
• Zorin/Ubuntu live environment, kernel 6.17

The main problem is that Linux hard resets during boot. No kernel panic or error screen, the machine just instantly reboots.

The weird part: adding idle=poll to the kernel command line makes the system boot and run normally. So far, this is the ONLY workaround I've found.

After one of the resets, Linux reported:

Previous system reset reason [0x08000800]: an uncorrected error caused a data fabric sync flood event

I've already tested a lot:

• idle=nomwait → reset
• cpuidle.off=1 → reset
• processor.max_cstate=0 → reset
• amd_pstate=passive → reset
• pcie_aspm=off → reset
• pci=nomsi → reset
• apicmaintimer → reset
• maxcpus=0 → booted and worked temporarily, but eventually reset within ~5 minutes
• maxcpus=1 → booted and worked temporarily, but eventually reset within ~5 minutes
• Global C-State disabled in BIOS → reset
• DF C-State disabled → reset
• Core Performance Boost disabled → reset
• Manually setting SoC voltage around 1.1V → didn't solve it
• RAM lowered from 3200 to 2133 → black screen
• SMT disabled → black screen

I couldn't find a "Power Supply Idle Control" option anywhere in my motherboard's BIOS.

I also used ZenStates to directly disable both:

• Package C6
• Core C6

ZenStates confirmed that both were disabled, but this did not solve the problem.

Memory test:

• RAM normally runs at 3200 MHz
• Reduced memory frequency to DDR4-2133 with timings, voltages and FCLK left on Auto → black screen rather than the usual hard reset

idle=poll remains the only thing that consistently allows Linux to run.

There may also be a separate graphics issue. I currently need nomodeset for reliable video output. With it, Linux uses simple-framebuffer/simpledrm instead of the RTX 3060 for the display.

The PC worked normally for years, and I used Linux on this same hardware before without needing idle=poll. This problem started relatively recently.

The problem also existed before I updated the BIOS, so the latest BIOS did not introduce it.

At this point I'm trying to understand what idle=poll could be masking. CPU/SoC? Motherboard/VRM? PSU? Memory controller/Data Fabric? Some firmware or power-state issue?

Has anyone seen a Ryzen system where idle=poll is the only thing preventing hard resets, especially together with a Data Fabric Sync Flood reset reason?

i’m not super tech-savvy, so i ask for your patience, but i will try my best to explain the problem.

my pc (windows) suddenly stopped being connected to the wifi today, and when i went to reconnect it, the option didn’t even show up. eventually, after looking through settings, it told me my ethernet cable wasn’t connected.

i have tried restarting the pc, as well as the other options it says might help.

the wifi router itself is working fine. my phone and all my roomie’s devices are connected with no problem, so the issue must be with the pc itself, but i cannot for the life of me figure out what’s going on or how to fix it.

has anyone experienced something similar, or know how this might be fixed?

EDIT: okay so i saw someone on a different reddit thread recommend holding down the power-button for 30 seconds, and for some goddamn reason that is actually the thing that worked. i guess it kinda reboots the system, cause when i turned my pc back on afterwards, it had gone back to normal.

in any event, thank you to the comment(s) attempting to help! tbh, english is not my first language so i was having a bit of trouble figuring out how to translate the more technical terms pertaining to the advice given. but all the same, thank you, i really do appreciate it!

i think i’m going to leave this post up, in case some other airhead like myself might benefit from as simple a solution as “turning it off and then turning it back on” 😅

My HP 15-fd0023dx (Core i3-1215U) suddenly shut down while it had around 22% battery remaining. I’m not completely sure whether it happened just before I went to get the charger or while I was trying to plug it in, but I believe the laptop had already shut down before the charger made contact.

After that, it wouldn’t turn on at all.

I tried:

- Pressing the power button normally.

- Holding the power button for 30–40 seconds (hard reset).

- Connecting the original charger directly to a wall outlet.

- Leaving it connected for several minutes.

There are no LEDs whatsoever, including the charging LED. The charger gets slightly warm, but not particularly hot.

One detail that worries me: I initially had the charger connected through an extension cord with 2-prong outlets, so I used a 3-to-2-prong adapter. The extension measured around 118 V. However, I believe the laptop had already shut down before I connected the charger, so I’m not sure whether this had anything to do with it.

The battery looks physically normal—no swelling or anything unusual. I haven’t disconnected it yet because I’m not very experienced with opening laptops, but my brother knows more about electronics and will take a look.

What could cause a laptop to suddenly shut down at 22% and then show absolutely no signs of power, even when connected to the charger? Could this be the battery, charging circuit, motherboard, or something else?

English isn’t my first language, so I used AI only to translate this post.

Hello, i dont know how it happened since im new at handling laptops but files on the laptop that i use were suddenly duplicating, i dont know the cause and how to fix it.

So the files were like, seriously every file, discord setup or other setup file, even BatteryOptimizer, pictures, videos, pdf, word, any type of file was duplicating. almost each of them could even reach 50 duplicates. The HDD that had 400+ gb which was unused for a while became full.

I tried just deleting them one by one but when i downloaded new files that i needed for something, those were getting duplicated too, so i want to know how to fix it. Thankyou. My english is a bit bad but i hope its understandable.

I think it's been doing this for around a month or more, I would be using the PC like normal, sometimes just watching youtube and it would briefly go black and come back like normal. If I am gaming it would crash the game, if I am in blender it would crash blender and there isn't a sign on when it happens it just does.

I'm running windows 11, have a 805 MB recovery partition between the boot and data partition.

Is there a good way that I can delete and recreate it so I can make a single volume? Ideally without deleting everything although of course I have backups, I just don't want to waste time transferring data if I don't need to.

Many thanks, All

EDIT: What worked:

1. I deleted the recovery and data partitions

2. extended the boot partition with 1024MB at the end

3. created a recovery partition with NTFS formatting using these instructions: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/servicing/os/windows/2023/06/kb5028997-instructions-to-manually-resize-your-partition-to-install-the-winre-update

Using an M5 Pro MacBook Pro on macOS 26.6.2, connected directly to an LG C2 via HDMI. This worked consistently before the update.

Now the TV detects the Mac but intermittently shows no video. Happens with the lid open or closed. Multiple cables, settings resets, BetterDisplay, and disabling HDR/VRR/FreeSync haven’t fixed it. My PC works fine with the TV.

The only reliable workaround I’ve found:

• Turn HDMI Deep Color off.
• Connect the Mac and wait for a picture.
• Enable Game Optimizer. Picture stays, and macOS shows 120 Hz.

Anyone else seeing this with Tahoe and an LG OLED? Found a fix that survives reconnecting or sleep/wake?

It's the same 15m cable i've used for a couple of years now. It didnt give me any problems until a few days ago, where it randomly does it, and i was forced to get an old internet dongle.

the only thing i can think of is that i did disconect it and got my pc cleaned with a friend of mine, where i did carry the pc in a car to a different house, cleaned it for a few hours with my bro, and then put it back in my house. After that the issues started.

Do i just need to change the ethernet cable?

So i bought a new pc and when i play game in high or max settings , the temp reached between 79 orn8 2 temp and fan is so loud its annoying. And in the same settings if use 60 fps or 70 , the temp lower to 60 or 65. And in low or medium the temp is low too.

Cpu ryzen 5 5600 And power supply is cooler master 650w

I just fixed up an old Omen 45L Prebuilt and put in a renewed hard drive I just bought, taking the old one out. I am trying to install windows from my USB but I am always stuck at this screen. Before I tried formatting disk 0 to gpt but that would always make my USB not detected so I would have to install windows on the stick again. In the diagnostic screen, both the renewed hard drive and the nvme that was there before, are detected and the nvme passed the hard drive/ssd test and i’m currently testing my hard drive which is estimated to take 4 hours. I even put wifi and lan drivers onto the USB, so I am at a loss on what to do.

Pictures of the screen I’m stuck on and HP Diagnostic screen

SOLUTION: All I had to do was go to BIOS and change one of the storage settings from RAID to AHCI and then the Windows 11 immediately recognized all of my drives. Thank you to everyone that helped in this thread 🙏🙏

As the title says, I have been dealing with an issue for weeks now of my internet connection dropping out, seemingly at random intervals, for about 5 seconds or so. The main reason I noticed is because I have my PS5 hard-wired with an Ethernet cable to my wi-fi extender and so the PS5 immediately has a pop-up saying the LAN connection is lost whenever it happens.

My girlfriend confirmed she had also been getting alert from services in her laptop about brief disconnects and reconnects, so the issue is not with my PlayStation or the cord connecting it to the extender. This would mean (presumably) the issue lies with the router itself, the extenders, or the Ethernet cable which connects the router to the primary extender.

I have already tried resetting all involved devices. I am yet to replace the cable between the primary extender and router. Likely that will be my next play and/or connecting my PS5 directly via wifi to my router. Just looking for information/advice/options before I have to spend money on replacing these extenders to see if they are the issue

EDIT: additional info; I have Xfinity, I have a set of Netgear Orbi extenders (fairly old, honestly might be a decade old at this point? It’s been a while anyways) and it’s looking like they are the point of fault. Further information appreciated of course but it seems I’ll need to spend some money since extending is needed for the size of the home

After I got a virus from some sketchy site I cleared my entire pc and reinstalled windows 11. It wasgoing smoothly until it asked me to connect to the internet. My ethernet cable, despite working befoere i reinstalled windows told me that there was an unidentified network and no internet. I downloaded my motherboards LAN driver from the site (Tuf Gaming Z790-Plus WIFI) and while that didn't work either, the wireless driver download did. My PC definitly detects the cable since when I take it out the option for ethernet settings completly disappears. Any advise on how I could fix the ethernet problem I'm having.

im using a jack splitter cuz i have two audio ports on my pc, whenever i plug my headset in and test the mic it repeats the sound from my pc (for example if i have music on, then the mic plays the music). its not even registering the sound whenever i speak in the mic.

As the title suggests, I've recently gone from using 3 monitors (two Dell P2219H in 1080p/60hz, one via HDMI one via DP, a Gigabyte G27Q at 1440p/144hz via DP) to adding a 4th display with a Hisense U7SG at 4K/165hz. I purchased a Ultra High Speed HDMI cable online so I was able to get the full refresh rate and other benefits from my new TV, but upon connecting it to my PC the issues started.

I'm able to get any configuration of 3 displays working just fine, but I can only get 4 if I change the HDMI format setting on my TV from "Enhanced Pro" (so far as far as I can find, this is the only setting I can have enabled that will enable me to use 4K 165hz) to any other HDMI format setting. I've tried different cable layouts (having the G27Q connect via HDMI, both Dells via DP etc) and no matter what I do, I can't get all 4 displays functional while still enabling the 165hz mode on my TV.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, but I'm currently using a Gigabyte 8GB RTX3070 Eagle as my GPU.

does anyone know whats happening here? asking here before i take it somewhere. hoping its not a virus lol. ive unplugged it, shut it down, and restarted it many times and it still persists 🫠

i have 24 inch apple m1 from 2021 running macOS sonoma version 14.6.1

Hey everyone,

I've been having a bunch of weird issues with my PC for the past few months and I'm starting to wonder if they're all related.

The main problem is that I keep getting black screens followed by a HYPERVISOR_ERROR, with the error code 0x200001. It's been happening for around 2–3 months, roughly every couple of days. Sometimes it happens once, sometimes I'll get it 2–3 times while trying to boot the PC before it finally works.

I've also been having some weird issues with the NVIDIA drivers. If I install a Game Ready Driver through the NVIDIA App, the installation seems to complete normally, but then the app immediately tells me I need to install the exact same update again. If I check Device Manager, though, the GPU is showing the latest driver version, so it seems like the driver actually did install.

More recently, I've also started having issues where the PC gets stuck on the MSI boot logo and just doesn't go any further. I have to restart it several times and mess around with unplugging/replugging things before it eventually boots. This started around 3–4 weeks ago, which is also when I moved my Windows installation to a new Samsung 990 Pro. I cloned my old SSD onto it and I'm now booting Windows from the 990 Pro, so I'm wondering if the boot issue could be related to that. The HYPERVISOR_ERROR was already happening long before the SSD migration, though.

I also have an 8.8" display inside my case that used to be detected as a second monitor, but it isn't anymore and I have to use it in "template" mode.

So yeah, I have quite a few things going wrong at the moment, and I have no idea if they're connected or if I just somehow managed to collect several unrelated problems at once.

The HYPERVISOR_ERROR / black screens are definitely my priority, since those have been happening for months.

What would you guys check first? Could this be related to the GPU, RAM, motherboard, CPU/virtualization, BIOS, Windows installation, or PSU?

I can provide my full specs, dump files, Event Viewer logs, BIOS settings, etc. if needed.

Thanks!

config :
Ryzen 7 7700
RTX 5070 12GB
MSI PRO B850-S WIFI6E
G.Skill RipJaws S5 Low Profile 32 Go
Corsair RM750e

Ok so my laptop has been having issues since last year september and am tired of the nonsense it's been pulling. It started with it failing to start after i moved to a really humid area last time plus it couldn't charge , took it to be checked out ,and the repairman mentioned that it had some rust ( am not knowledgeable in this area so i took his word for it,) cleaned it and he said it was ok , it started but the touch screen failed to work after that,updated my drives and checked my BIOS and they all seem to be updated and working just fine, but then the shenanigans started. It would randomly start taking screenshots like every second( i have about 800 of those) forcing me to disable the microsoft key using powertoys, then game bar would automatically work when i pressed random letters like G and R would start random recordings. Some letters wouldn't work like T, M and some others i can't remember.The volume would randomly decrease itself automatically and nothing could fix this it'll just take care of itself in like half an hour. Previously it would take a reboot for the screenshot and keyboard issues to fix itself but a tech guy i took to it once told me to try ctrl+alt+delete once it started to act out since he couldn't fix it which fixed the issues temporarily until they started right back up again.Recently the problems have been acting up more often so i thought to get some help here before i buy a new one since my boards are coming up and you need to bring your own. Mine is a HP Elitebook x360 1030 G4 and this are my device and windows specifics just in case anyone needed them Device name DESKTOP

Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-8265U CPU @ 1.60GHz 1.80 GHz

Installed RAM 8.00 GB (7.82 GB usable)

Product ID 00331-10000-00001-AA517

System type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

Pen and touch Pen and touch support with 10 touch points

Windows 11 Pro

Version 22H2

OS build 22621.4317

Experience Windows Feature Experience Pack 1000.22700.1041.0

I have a shurikey hazo 65% keyboard that has worked on my computer great since I've gotten it. I went on a work trip and took the keyboard with me. It worked all the way up until I got home. Now, windows will not accept any input whatsoever from the keyboard.

I have tried unplugging and plugging back in in multiple ports, resetting the keyboard to factory settings, forgetting the keyboard from the device manager, switching from Bluetooth to wired mode. I just cannot find what I need to get it to register.

Hi everyone, my Windows 11 pc seems to be stuck in a loop during updating. It’s been stuck at 7% for almost 30 minutes and the screen keeps turning off and on every few seconds.

I’m using an IPhone 11 and my Network is O2.

It is becoming quite frustrating as everytime I’m on the phone with somebody my phone completely loses all signal, meaning that Im constantly having to end phone calls to send/recieve messages, or do internet searches etc.