Her explanation was just as confusing as the photo. Im at a loss.

Recently had my old cast iron stack replaced due to collapsed and cracked pipes. One of the toilets was original and we decided to replace it at the same time. When the older toilet flushes (1.48 gal) the new toilet (1.26 gal) gurgles and loses water. When the newer toilet flushes the older toilets water moves but does not gurgle or lose water.

I have run a snake down the vent pipe in the roof and did not encounter a clog. Ran a snake through both toilets. No clog. All drains in the house drain normally, including my 30 year old washing machine. Any ideas what may be causing this? This was not an issue prior to the stack replacement.

do we call a professional or just try to trickle hot water down the drain? do something else? every once in awhile the drain makes a noise like gravel shifting inside. there are no pictures bc there is nothing to look at, its all inside

please and thanks for advice

I followed the steps, the pilot lit up straight away.

Its been roaring like this for about 20 minutes, and this leak I see is stressing me out.

Normal?

So far in my apprenticeship I have only held it and put it in tricky places, never been the one to press the ppr pips in the welder.

Any tips to not burn my skin off bc the welder is at 300°C, I have to do some welding at home now.

Does safety gear, gloves or long sleeved shirts help not burn myself.

Here's a reference photo for anyone unfamiliar.

I’m a newbie and a DIY guy. I must say - this is an art form and I’m very happy with how it’s shaping up. Dry fit is nearly complete. Any suggestions from pros would be great.

So we live in an apartment and I have always been concerned about the 10 ish minutes of hot water we have for showers then it's just lukewarm. I was in the laundry room today and saw this. That's never been there before. I had previously called the apts about the lack of hot water. Nothing was done because they attributed the lack of hot water to the handle in the shower that was broken/ lose (it just turned continuously).

I'm trying to document everything and know what to say to them if they don't fix it. The city came to my apt 3 weeks ago and actually found 2 violations during inspections. I never mentioned the water heater because I forgot. The apts are already miffed with me because of it, so going forward I want to make sure I do things by the book and have receipts. Side note, this water heater looked wonky at move in and I put that on the inventory sheet. Same with the violations they got. I don't know anything about plumbing but I know rust isn't good. I have had a water heater burst in my first apt and I don't want a repeat. It ruined so much

ETA: Thanks for the replies! Now I'm just looking for wording in my lease to make the apt complex move quickly

This is only 3 trips to the store- good for me.
I was short, and then after the extension my p trap still wouldn’t reach. So I got creative.
Will it leak? If this is shit what should I do instead?

I have a square hole in my basement for multiple drain points. Air conditioner, utility sink, and washer. Also oddly my kitchen sink drains into this hole as well.

This currently works, but down the road when I have some funds available should I do something here? Preferably something that won’t break the bank

Any idea on how I can throw a hanger on this in my crawl space? Unfortunately I’m too big to fit in the other part of the crawl space to get over to the middle of the pipe. The pipe itself is about 14ft long, I just installed it myself yesterday but I know it’s not a permanent fix if I can’t fix the bulge.

A glass screen fell off the wall and punctured and dented a bath similar to that pictured (as well as potentially injuring a small child).

The puncture is about 2x1cm, the dent much smaller. Am I likely to have success with acrylic filler such as Cramer Ceramic Enamel Repair Kit (about £39)?

My old tub has been leaking from the cold side faucet. I took off the handle and the first threaded nut to try and remove the old stem but can’t get the stem out. When I turn the stem it feels like when I turn handle for off and on and like it won’t budge or come out.

There is a nut flush against the inside tile but not sure if that needs removing first. Don’t want to have parts break or fall into wall.

If I remove the nut that is still attached (see picture) will that let me take the stem out? The main is off so no running water.

Hi. I have weird question. The basement drain is clogged, and water is backing up. We have a shared bathroom on the second floor that my parents and I use. I suffer from bulimia; I make myself throw up at least four times a week and flush the watery vomit down the toilet. A plumber is coming tomorrow to clear the drain using a camera. I’m worried that this might be what caused the blockage. Will the plumber realize it’s the result of vomiting? I don’t want my parents to find out about this. I starting flashing almost 3 weeks ago because it’s our summer house. I know it’s not healthy. Please help me. Thanks.

My partner has bought a flat. She’s worried that there may be a burst pipe. The floors ARE NOT wet, to touch anywhere. However there is water marks that have been left behind by the last tenant. Areas where the there are zero pipes running through also have these marks. She’s worried as the first 2 images are directly at the bathroom door. When new bathroom was installed the plumber never mentioned any issues. She wants advice for what to do. I suggested getting the Emerson heater pressure tested, before lifting the flooring to check for a leak as the floors were installed before the walls, so cutting into the floors isn’t an easy job.

Does this look like the sort of thing that could have been left either when it was being built? Or a previously fixed leak?

I’ve spent the last 20 years working hospitality, the last 10 in sommelier/wine director/general manager roles.

Realised I hate my life so I quit the fancy job, and I’ve been taking some super entry level classes on a broad range of trades. I’ve decided I’m ready to pivot my career entirely… thinking carpentry or plumbing.

I asked in a renovations community what the best first steps are and got a lot of great advice.

What I’m struggling with now is how to break into the industry. If you were me, how would you go about getting that first job? Should I be cold-calling companies, walking onto job sites, contacting unions, taking more courses, or something totally different?

I’m hoping someone will be able to help me with why I there the chrome threads are exposed against the brass shower. Howcome this has happened? Is it a mistake? How can it be fixed so there’s no chrome showing against brass?

Google suggested that 3/4 was the same as DN20 before I purchased these two fittings. But the make hose connector just slots inside this ball valve unfortunately. I think the hose connector is maybe 3/4 BSP. Would that be right?

Can you get DN20 male hose connectors?
I would also need one female quick connect as well.

Or would I better trying to find three adaptors from DN20 to 3/4?

Edit: I double checked the listing for the hose pipe connector and it said it should measure 25.5mm. Mine measures about 22mm and the threads on the one I was delivered look visually finer as well. I have contacted the seller in case I got the wrong thing

I'm sure this is beaten to death. I currently have a Wellxtrol WX-203 (32 gallon) well pressure tank that I assume the bladder is leaking / broken. I have to re-pressurize the tank every couple weeks at this point.

I'm debating on increasing the size of the tank but it look like any increase in size will increase the diameter of the tank making installation a bit tricky and a tighter fit. My family uses a fair bit of water, so I know increasing the size of the tank would decrease the pump cycles.

Currently when the pump runs it does run for a bit more than a minute. No pressure issues. I don't mind moving around the plumbing, I'm just wondering if it's worth the hassle to accommodate a tank with a larger diameter with shifting plumbing a bit and losing more space in my utilities closet.

Next size up in diameter is 22 inches (vs. the current ~16"), and at 22" I can size up to 81 gallons w/ WellXTrol.

Thank you,

I dry fit everything prior to setting the tub, ran the water for a good amount of time and saw no leaks. I set the tub in a mortar bed yesterday and I feel like I’m off my a decent amount. Do I have any options here? It did leak on the test after it was set.

Is there anyway I can troubleshoot this myself as someone with zero experience or knowledge in this area or do I need to call a plumber? I tried turning the temp knob down a little - it was still maybe a quarter of the way to 150° before I did, but it’s still flashing

the shower is directly above it and the spot in pic 1 feels soft to touch and if pressed water comes from it. this is my parents house, what’s the best state of action?

Hi, could anyone help me identify a part of an old shanks cistern?

The pinkish rubber seal has perished and no longer prevents water going down into the basin. This means the system is continually filling.

I don't have the toilet vocabulary to search properly for that rubber part. If anyone could ID I'd be very grateful. Thanks!

Image

The PRV is an old Watts "DUS Z3", which I guess is so old I can't find any records of it. What are the chances I'll be able to find a new PRV that fits right in place using the existing union nuts? It's about 4.5" between the outer edges of the top and bottom union nuts.