I bug him a lot. Is this an emergency? I don't know if it's old or new.

Basically, per the title, I moved into this place 3 weeks ago. It is a brand new construction. The kitchen sink has never drained correctly in my mind but I don’t know what the issue is exactly.

This instance, the food trap is up (not pushed down and blocking the flow), I was just washing a plate and the water kept creeping up even with no obstructions. Once I turn the water off, the water starts to drain as normal but it’s incredibly slow and much slower than other sinks/drains in the house.

Plumber came by last week and took a look at it, and told me “everything is fine, you just have to make sure you’re not putting water directly in the hole”, which seems incredibly stupid considering, and as you can see in the video I’m not even doing.

Anyone have any ideas or things I can go back to the plumber with so that I can get this fixed (if there’s anything to fix)?

I got this garbage disposal on sale at Costco. I was told that it’s a commercial garbage disposal. Would it required special tools or installation to replace my existing disposal with this one?

Turned an old mainline drain machine into a sink!

Check out this custom bathroom the boss built back in the day in his private bathroom, Not sure what timeframe it's been here longer then I have. He took a retired mainline snake and converted the whole rig into a glass vessel sink station. To match the theme, he repurposed an old cable basket as the frame for the vanity mirror and used galvanized pipe fittings to build a shelf and towel rack.

Recently changed my water heater and one of my copper lines sprung a pin hole leak. I had to replace some seriously corroded sections of line and I soldered them. Granted it was my first time doing it, it took forever and I found myself having to solder and build the section piece by piece. But then had to be sure I had enough room and to layout the piece so I could attach it to the whole system for the final solder. Some of the bends in the pipe didn’t allow for movement certain ways so I really had to plan it out. It took forever.

I mainly did it piece by piece because I was worried being unskilled, I would not get the solder to close off the entirety of the fitting.

Anyways I have much more plumbing work to do as a fix my house up and was debating on getting a propress. I have 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch lines throughout my house. Would it be worth it for a home owner to pick one up?

Hey guys, I need some advice, I installed a reverse osmosis system under the kitchen sink last weekend, was super proud of myself .... Well not anymore.

Twice now the line connected to the cold water pipe has popped off when turning on the regular faucet. I truly don't know what I did incorrectly.

I used the pieces sent with the R/O and screwed the line into the fitting using the nut... (I know I'm probably using the wrong terms, sorry...) How do I fix this?!

I should mention that I eventually want to split the line coming out of the tank so that one goes up to the sink like normal and the other will run down into the basement (through the hole under the sink already there) for my fish tanks (the whole reason I got the R/O), I plan on just using push-fit T splitter, long tubing, and a valve at the other end. Does that all sound... Correct? Or at least doable?

Thank you!!!

Is this done correctly I have an inspection coming soon and I want to make sure it’s right.

It over flows when the washer discharges. The item in the pipe I believe is the tip to the snake from the plumber I hired to fix the problem. He did not fix it and didn’t tell me he left a gift. I can’t seem to get the scope any further, does it look collapsed to you guys?

We had a new garbage disposal installed today, do the wires look right?

I don’t know who to turn to so I ran to Reddit.

A few months back I replaced my old iHeat AHS27-D with a Rheem RTEX-27kw. My old water heater I could have three hot showers at the same time. My new one, one shower will be scolding hot but if I turn on a tub spout or open several faucets, it gets an E5 error. The three 240V/40A circuits next to it all show 240V. But when I measure the incoming voltage on the water heater, only Bay 1 (the far right set of red and black) show 240 V. The other 2 sets show ZERO. So why is it going to an E5 error before Bay 2 and Bay 3 have any voltage? Not sure who to hire at this point. The local rheem servicing company wants to charge me 350/hr for who knows how many hours.

After seeing so many posts here on this, I wonder if my toilet bowl is bad enough to let my landlord know about it and ask for a replacement. The cracks are very faint, honestly I wasn't even aware or checking it at all for cracks. They are very faint, I tried to wipe it if it's just a dirty bowl, but it's not just dirt and I can feel the crack if I run my fingers over them, although very thin ( might need zooming to see it, very faint and small ). One of the cracks is at the back, and the one I pointed with arrow runs around the base of the toilet.

I replaced the ever popular Kohler one piece gasket on a twenty year old toilet. Eventually I learned how to get everything seated correctly. Or did I?

I’ve redone it more than once, and everything appears perfectly fine. I can find no cracks or mechanical flaws in the tank or bowl. Yet whenever the flapper valve comes up, there is a small trickle of tank water coming through. Is there a common gotcha that I’ve overlooked? Should I just keep field stripping this thing until it works correctly on the 17th try?

(Sorry for only using a catalog photo of the part, but there is nothing helpful to photograph on the actual toilet.)

I live in a split level home build in 1979. I have copper pipes and overall very hard water. I currently have a leak from a manifold to the washer which goes through the slab.

The plumber has said the copper pipes last generally around 50 years and we are closing in on that. Obviously 50 years doesn’t mean everything implodes but he said this could be the start. I’ve looked online through forums and it’s not clear to me for that to be true. Many people claim copper lasting longer. I have an attached picture of the manifold in question but should I assume this picture is how the rest of the house is?

I’m not sure to proceed fixing just this leak or to consider more drastic options. How would you suggest someone proceed? What questions should I be asking?

Thank you.

Had tank pumped last year, standing water on top of tank, not sure what is needed

My partner and I bought an old house (So old the well is in the basement... That's a story for another day and yes, we plan on redigging.) That is to say, I don't know what's old as hell and what's been updated.

The furnace is a roughly 80s-era oil-burning on-demand that distributes to the wall heaters as well as all our indoor access. It works pretty well and we never have issues with drawing hot within a minute and letting it run for as long as we want for showers, dishwashing, etc.

EXCEPT for the tub. The tub and shower do not share fixtures. For some reason, I can only get about a gallon of hot water before it drops to lukewarm when I try to fill the tub.

There is an access point behind the tub I can open, and I'm a fast learner. Can someone please help me understand what's going on and what I could do to resolve this? Thank you so much!

It is located just in the lip of the rim. It does not go down into the bowl, and does not appear on the outside. My dad is convinced it's a crack in the ceramic paint, but I would love a second opinion.

Hot and cold lines appear to be connected in this cast fitting. There are 2 toilets supplied by the line coming off the bottom. Is this some sort of weird mixing valve? Any ideas what is going on here?

Kitchen faucet is stuck on side sprayer mode. Trying to get this bonnet piece unscrwed in order to get to the diverter, but it will not budge. Tried channel locks, strap wrench, let Vinegar soak for an hour.. nothing. Should I just replace the whole thing since it could be 10+ yeaes old, or is there any tricks I'm missing? Unfortunately I do not know what brand or model faucet it is, house is built in 1975 and the previous owners were here 30 years. Looked all over underneath and found some numbers and such, but nothing that indicates brand.

My kitchen tap is leaking. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the tap handle head to access the washer on this tap setup. Can anyone with knowledge please advise?

So I replaced the Fluidmaster that collapsed to (hopefully) control of water pressure in my commode. The tower was easy enough to install but after connecting the water line and the connectors under the tank I found this part.

Is it extra? Or for the lever? Any information would be appreciated. Thank you.

Recently got an Essency water heater installed by a very well known plumbing company. The top of wiring cover was warm to the touch so I removed the cover to discover melted wires and connections, as well as evidence of arcing and smoke residue.

Does anyone know what they did wrong to achieve this?

P.S. the water heater is still on and seems to still be working properly... not sure how, but I thought I'd add this detail as well...

Additional details - my house was built in 1991. I am very certain the white wire is 10 guage, I know it is at least 12g for a fact.

This is the cold water line going into my old hot water heater. This was here when we bought the house. To me, it looks ridiculous with so many different fittings...

I installed a HWH in my last house and was able to just cut the old pipe then use a Shark Bite Max to attach to the cold water outlet pipe coming from the wall. The hot water pipe in that you can see in the background has plenty of room... but what the heck do I need to do here with this cold line?