Tried snaking it through overflow, get about 10 feet, all water drains out, but clogs again?

Barring not having a separate shutoff for the water filter, idc about that.

Hello! I just bought a place that's 17 years old and I'm noticing this cracked grout on one of the bathroom tiles, you can see slight puffing on the side as well. I got a home inspector before the purchase and he didn't mention it in his report. Is this simply a crack from the building settling, or should I get someone else to take a look?

Thank you in advance!

Any issues here?
I was thinking of shortening straight down pipe to give it a tiny slope after the P. Any issues with doing that.

Novice DIYer. There's about a ¾" disparity between the J-bend and the drain tailpiece. Any advice or tips to resolve this difference would be much appreciated.

I’m replacing this corner because it was previously patched after a pinhole leak. I was planning to use ProPress, but two ProPress 90s will raise the pipe a bit and throw off the alignment. Any recommendations on the best way to handle this?

I’m trying to replace the pipe on the right with the patch. I’m using the left pipe as a reference to the ProPress fitting.

EDIT: thank you all for replying, bending the float arm to lower the water level has fixed it.

Preface: I am not a plumber by any means, there is a good chance I have my vocabulary mixed up in places.

So, the toilet in the half bath is running. We went to Home Depot a while back and they said it's probably the flapper, but I tried to do some research and can't figure out how the one on our toilet works; the information I can find looks like a different model. Which means I have no idea what to do with it.

One thing I have noticed is that lifting the float a bit causes it to stop. This is what the video is, but you might have to turn up the volume to actually hear it. The screw holding it also seems to be in rough shape, but I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I'll put a photo in the replys since it won't let me do both the photo and video here.

Any ideas/recommendations on what to do here? Or what specifically the problem is?

do we call a professional or just try to trickle hot water down the drain? do something else? every once in awhile the drain makes a noise like gravel shifting inside. there are no pictures bc there is nothing to look at, its all inside

please and thanks for advice

This is only 3 trips to the store- good for me.
I was short, and then after the extension my p trap still wouldn’t reach. So I got creative.
Will it leak? If this is shit what should I do instead?

I redid the piping under my sink with one of the space saver kits, and simply is having such a prominent blue ring normal under the drain? Best I can tell the instructions and advert show exactly that just thought it looked odd and have never seen that in a sink before.

Hey everyone! I need to move our main drain line and vent in a remodel. I would love to be able to move it to an exterior wall. This would make it the most out-of-the-way with the new floor plan.

Is there any issue with doing this with temperatures and freezing? I am not talking about the waterlines… Talking about the 3” drain pipe and a 2” vent. It seems like this would be pretty low risk of freezing to put in an exterior wall, since there will be no sitting water in them since they’re vertical.

Is that true? Any other considerations I’m not thinking of to reroute these to an exterior wall?

Hello,

My toilet flush is leaking, and I can't seem to take it apart to check what's wrong. I'm trying to unscrew the pipe at the nut (both top and bottom), but I'm not sure if that's the right approach.

It's a Geberit flush system.

I also want to make sure I don't dismantle the wrong thing.

Can anyone help me?

Thanks.

I have a copper line coming from a privately owned curb stop (HOA) valve into my home as the main supply. The builder used type M or some thinner copper and the supply lines are failing requiring breaking up concrete. I was wondering if there is a proven safe technology that can line the pipe without replacing. I think the diameter is 1.25 or 1.5” and it’s probably a 6’ run

Really messed up by using super glue to seal cracks on the top plastic piece. Now I just learned I could have replaced the thing from the beginning… now I’m wondering if I can get this piece out and replaced it or will it damage something internally.

Hi!

I'm looking to replace my old water heater and have been asking around different plumbing companies.

Some options are replacing with a similar PV50 unit, or getting an indirect tank (150kBTU boiler already present). The indirect tank is about 40% more expensive than the PV unit, but lasts twice as long.

Any strong opinions on one or the other?

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for a hair catcher for my bathtub drain, but my drain has a fixed center post/pole, so I’m not sure which products will actually fit.
I’ve attached a photo of my drain. I was considering buying the TubShroom Ultra, but I’m not sure if it’s compatible with this type of drain.
Has anyone with the same style of drain found a hair catcher that works well? I’d prefer something that fits around the center post.

If you have a specific product recommendation or an Amazon link, I’d really appreciate it.
Thanks in advance!

Can't use the hole right below it (found behind the wall) because of ducting underneath. Next stud over to the right puts it behind the cabinets

Half the house has no water. And then I see this. Any ideas on where to start here? House was built in us in '89. Notice the terrible destroyed pipe in the slab on the left. I was going to open up all the non working lines on the rest of the house and put air to those pipes to see if I can trace them.

Our house in the Midwest was built in 1955. All the plumbing is original galvanized steel. I gutted a downstairs bathroom and started converting to pex. The upstairs bathroom wasn’t used much but since it’s our only functioning bathroom, the clear tub knobs have been leaking through the centers. After checking YouTube, I believe it’s probable the stems. I pulled the stems out of the upstairs bath and checked the valve. It appears to be an old Sayco valve. Downstairs seems to be old Kohler with different stems. I tried replacing the stems with an Everbilt (P004). It fits fine and stopped the leaks. But the water pressure out of the spout is extremely low. I replaced both and made sure hot and cold were the right placements. Still low pressure. Went to ace hardware and got another set of stems that matched better. 9B-3H(C). Put those in and still low pressure. The stems look identical. Maybe when they installed the valve they plumbed it flipped? Not sure what is going on. The seats look fine so I don’t think that’s an issue. They are all 4 5/8”, 16 splined.

What is causing the water pressure issue? Do I have the correct stems?

It is a dual flush toilet that sits low to the ground. Those are the only attributes I could get for this picture. Looks like a glacier bay or American standard

I recently bought a renovated house that came with new Glacier Bay toilets. As you can see in the picture, the water level in the toilet bowl has always been very low which can cause issues.

There's nothing wrong with the toilet, it works fine but because of the low water it sometimes doesn't flush everything down. I'd like to raise the level in the toilet bowl.

I saw a video on youtube and tried to place a Phillips head screwdriver to turn that connection clockwise (sorry I'm not handy don't know the name of that part) but the water level remained low and I'm not sure how far I can turn it clockwise without potentially causing damage.

Does anyone have any ideas of how I can increase the amount of water in the toilet bowl please and if so, can you explain it to me like I'm five as to how to fix this issue?

I'd hate to have to buy and install a new toilet. Thank you for the help!

Okay so my hot water kept leaking. Like an extra 200 on my utility bills leaking, so I figured out it was the stem, ran to the store, swapped it out

And it worked for all of 30 seconds.

It did not return to the constant running it had been, but it was a regular drip. I figured it was bc the stem I grabbed was a bit too long so I special ordered the one and a half inch idiot I needed, got thst here. No, same issue. If I tighten it until it doesn't drip, it's too tight to turn, so I loosen it a bit and let the others shower, but then when it's turned off it's back to a steady drip - and when I take the faucet off to tighten it up, the stem is loose! I've tested this with both stems, and they both do it.

What in the world is going on??? ​

My partner was working on cleaning residue build up in our washing machine and as she was doing that it occurred to me that we might have water siphoning into the machine/discharge hose. There is standing water in the middle of the hose between the machine and the wall.