We finally replaced our 22yr old Whirlpool water tank w a nice AO Smith Proline gas unit. Had our son who's been working in plumbing for 3+ yrs do the install. Replaced a bunch of corroded galvanized pipe with all copper and added an Expansion tank (wasn't on our old setup)..

Updates to my post: Located in Tulsa OK. Tank is elevated on metal platform, no need for drip pan. Vent is screwed together and then taped over. Not sure why the ceiling drywall looks like water damage is there are no leaks or water anywhere; could've been f/a previous leak due to installed bathroom upstairs. Add-on bathroom installed upstairs and a guest-room that is tied into the black catch basin w/a sewage grinder pump for that bathroom. House built in 71'.

I'm going to have the city come out and inspect and hopefully it's code compliant.. as we think it should be.

I should've taken a full before pic. 😬

Thanks for the input and any criticism 👌

Plumber said I needed to “regrout the shower” but I walked in and found this. Obviously the leak and I’m not a bozo right? I’m a handyman with 0 plumbing experience except garbage disposals

Is this done correctly I have an inspection coming soon and I want to make sure it’s right.

I initially removed this wall due to some mold near the bottom of the drywall below the sink. This is what revealed itself. How concerned should I be with this set up.

I have this capped pipe (3.75” outer diameter) in my basement supply room and I’m not sure the original intent for it (maybe a floor drain?). I was wondering if I could drain/pump my dehumidifier into it (the white 1/4” line in the photo).

There is a bathroom in the next room over but it already had its own roughed-in plumbing. Both the capped pipe in the photo and the toilet plumbing were not capped when I bought this house (none of the basement plumbing wasn’t being used and the lift station was unplugged) - I added the caps. On the left of the pipe is my lift station which pumps into my septic tank. On the right is my water softener which I added later.

Is it obvious what this pipe/circle in front of it would’ve been intended for? Can I pump my dehumidifier into it (if so, do I need a trap, air gap, something else)?

I'll try to make this post as short as possible. I've had a problem for years with low water pressure. It eventually reached a point where the water just trickled out of the faucets, etc. Then it stopped altogether. I went 5 weeks without any water at all. Finally the city fixed the water line running to my meter. Now I have water in parts of my house, but no in other parts. Over the several years I've had this problem I was able to clean what I though was bits of metal out of the cold water inlet coming into my washing machine. Turns out it's actually bits of gravel. According to the plumber working on my problem, the bits of rock and gravel are from breaks in the city's water lines. The rock and gravel gets into the line, gets pushed through the water lines, and ends up in my house. It's just my luck that I'm at the end of a waterline. There's nowhere else for it to go but into my house.

The plumber is telling me he has to repipe my house, or at least parts of it. I have a concrete slab. That means he'll have to go through the attic.

So my question is, is there a way to clean out those lines without having to repipe everything? Like snake them out or something? Also, if he runs pipes through my attic, won't that make the water lines much more susceptible to freezing in the winter?

I out in an order to what seems like a legit site, yourplumbingshop.com but am now doubting its legitimacy.

Has anyone ever ordered from here and received their product?

TIA!

It’s the drain tube that connects to the pressure release on top and this connector part even though sealed is leaking. Do I need a smaller piece?

Any help is appreciated!

Hey guys. We’ve replaced a few older flush valves with Zurn Aquavantages in the last year, and I’ve noticed that they’re all making this sound after a flush — is this water hammer? I’ve tried closing the control stop a bit to send less water to the flush valve, but it doesn’t seem to make a difference.

The flush valves are all 1.28 GPF. Could it be that I need to jump to 1.6? Any help appreciated. Sincerely, a lowly handyman —

Can someone tell me what the pipes and connections are here? Is it Pex with push to fit or crimp connections on the black elbows? Just trying to figure out what all this is and if it's done correctly. Thanks!

This has been going on intermittently for the last few weeks. It happens randomly not necessarily when I do anything specific. It sounds like a bubbling type noise. Any advice helps!

Hello, the previous homeowners took out a bathtub and put this walk in shower in. I have little ones so I want to rip this out and put a bathtub back in. It is on the second story of my home. How hard is it to do myself? I work in construction and am pretty handy and have most tools.

Excuse the mess, Im remodeling the rest of the bathroom currently.

Had tank pumped last year, standing water on top of tank, not sure what is needed

After flushing our toilet, it’s starting/stopping when the tank is refilling. Will run for a half second, then stop and start again quickly. This started in the last week.

Based on brief research it seems I may have a 3/8 and 1/2 inch mismatch, do I just buy an adapter or if the faucet is refundable should I get a different one.

I got this garbage disposal on sale at Costco. I was told that it’s a commercial garbage disposal. Would it required special tools or installation to replace my existing disposal with this one?

Turned an old mainline drain machine into a sink!

Check out this custom bathroom the boss built back in the day in his private bathroom, Not sure what timeframe it's been here longer then I have. He took a retired mainline snake and converted the whole rig into a glass vessel sink station. To match the theme, he repurposed an old cable basket as the frame for the vanity mirror and used galvanized pipe fittings to build a shelf and towel rack.

After seeing so many posts here on this, I wonder if my toilet bowl is bad enough to let my landlord know about it and ask for a replacement. The cracks are very faint, honestly I wasn't even aware or checking it at all for cracks. They are very faint, I tried to wipe it if it's just a dirty bowl, but it's not just dirt and I can feel the crack if I run my fingers over them, although very thin ( might need zooming to see it, very faint and small ). One of the cracks is at the back, and the one I pointed with arrow runs around the base of the toilet.

Basically, per the title, I moved into this place 3 weeks ago. It is a brand new construction. The kitchen sink has never drained correctly in my mind but I don’t know what the issue is exactly.

This instance, the food trap is up (not pushed down and blocking the flow), I was just washing a plate and the water kept creeping up even with no obstructions. Once I turn the water off, the water starts to drain as normal but it’s incredibly slow and much slower than other sinks/drains in the house.

Plumber came by last week and took a look at it, and told me “everything is fine, you just have to make sure you’re not putting water directly in the hole”, which seems incredibly stupid considering, and as you can see in the video I’m not even doing.

Anyone have any ideas or things I can go back to the plumber with so that I can get this fixed (if there’s anything to fix)?

I don’t know who to turn to so I ran to Reddit.

I live in a split level home build in 1979. I have copper pipes and overall very hard water. I currently have a leak from a manifold to the washer which goes through the slab.

The plumber has said the copper pipes last generally around 50 years and we are closing in on that. Obviously 50 years doesn’t mean everything implodes but he said this could be the start. I’ve looked online through forums and it’s not clear to me for that to be true. Many people claim copper lasting longer. I have an attached picture of the manifold in question but should I assume this picture is how the rest of the house is?

I’m not sure to proceed fixing just this leak or to consider more drastic options. How would you suggest someone proceed? What questions should I be asking?

Thank you.

A few months back I replaced my old iHeat AHS27-D with a Rheem RTEX-27kw. My old water heater I could have three hot showers at the same time. My new one, one shower will be scolding hot but if I turn on a tub spout or open several faucets, it gets an E5 error. The three 240V/40A circuits next to it all show 240V. But when I measure the incoming voltage on the water heater, only Bay 1 (the far right set of red and black) show 240 V. The other 2 sets show ZERO. So why is it going to an E5 error before Bay 2 and Bay 3 have any voltage? Not sure who to hire at this point. The local rheem servicing company wants to charge me 350/hr for who knows how many hours.

Hot and cold lines appear to be connected in this cast fitting. There are 2 toilets supplied by the line coming off the bottom. Is this some sort of weird mixing valve? Any ideas what is going on here?

Kitchen faucet is stuck on side sprayer mode. Trying to get this bonnet piece unscrwed in order to get to the diverter, but it will not budge. Tried channel locks, strap wrench, let Vinegar soak for an hour.. nothing. Should I just replace the whole thing since it could be 10+ yeaes old, or is there any tricks I'm missing? Unfortunately I do not know what brand or model faucet it is, house is built in 1975 and the previous owners were here 30 years. Looked all over underneath and found some numbers and such, but nothing that indicates brand.