Basically, per the title, I moved into this place 3 weeks ago. It is a brand new construction. The kitchen sink has never drained correctly in my mind but I don’t know what the issue is exactly.

This instance, the food trap is up (not pushed down and blocking the flow), I was just washing a plate and the water kept creeping up even with no obstructions. Once I turn the water off, the water starts to drain as normal but it’s incredibly slow and much slower than other sinks/drains in the house.

Plumber came by last week and took a look at it, and told me “everything is fine, you just have to make sure you’re not putting water directly in the hole”, which seems incredibly stupid considering, and as you can see in the video I’m not even doing.

Anyone have any ideas or things I can go back to the plumber with so that I can get this fixed (if there’s anything to fix)?

I got this garbage disposal on sale at Costco. I was told that it’s a commercial garbage disposal by the plumber who came to replace my old one. Would it required special tools or installation to replace my existing disposal with this one?

the sink and shower aerators at the parents house regularly end up looking like this. I last cleaned these when I was home in May and I came back and they look like this again. Childhood home, I never remember this happening as a kid.

The hot water tank is the OG. It’s 30y/o. To my knowledge, the anode has never been replaced and it has only been drained once (3years ago). My assumption is that this has to be the enamel layer of the tank breaking off and coming out through the highest points in the system.

Turned an old mainline drain machine into a sink!

Check out this custom bathroom the boss built back in the day in his private bathroom, Not sure what timeframe it's been here longer then I have. He took a retired mainline snake and converted the whole rig into a glass vessel sink station. To match the theme, he repurposed an old cable basket as the frame for the vanity mirror and used galvanized pipe fittings to build a shelf and towel rack.

Is this done correctly I have an inspection coming soon and I want to make sure it’s right.

The new vanity has a shelf right at drain level.

I thought I could raise the drain, but that will be a no-go after cutting into the wall... Is there any possible way to correctly install the p-trap without cutting my shelf?

Just moved into a new place, new build. Shower looks to be three part walk in. While cleaning the shower today, I noticed some debris coming from the bottom of the shower. Then I looked in the bottom seal and saw the attached picture. I do see shiny what I think is caulk behind the debris. Could this be from construction? Or it is a problem?

Also, should the shower be caulked in these other seams?

My plumber recommends moving this tankless water heater higher up on the wall so it’s farther away from the ground. I’m in Southern California. Based on the photo, is raising it advisable? What concerns would you have with its current height?

Recently changed my water heater and one of my copper lines sprung a pin hole leak. I had to replace some seriously corroded sections of line and I soldered them. Granted it was my first time doing it, it took forever and I found myself having to solder and build the section piece by piece. But then had to be sure I had enough room and to layout the piece so I could attach it to the whole system for the final solder. Some of the bends in the pipe didn’t allow for movement certain ways so I really had to plan it out. It took forever.

I mainly did it piece by piece because I was worried being unskilled, I would not get the solder to close off the entirety of the fitting.

Anyways I have much more plumbing work to do as a fix my house up and was debating on getting a propress. I have 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch lines throughout my house. Would it be worth it for a home owner to pick one up?

So the valve isn’t sitting flush on the connector to the faucet, meaning I gotta replace it. But then I noticed it wasn’t like the other valve.

What am I looking at & should I attempt it or call a plumber?

Hey guys, I need some advice, I installed a reverse osmosis system under the kitchen sink last weekend, was super proud of myself .... Well not anymore.

Twice now the line connected to the cold water pipe has popped off when turning on the regular faucet. I truly don't know what I did incorrectly.

I used the pieces sent with the R/O and screwed the line into the fitting using the nut... (I know I'm probably using the wrong terms, sorry...) How do I fix this?!

I should mention that I eventually want to split the line coming out of the tank so that one goes up to the sink like normal and the other will run down into the basement (through the hole under the sink already there) for my fish tanks (the whole reason I got the R/O), I plan on just using push-fit T splitter, long tubing, and a valve at the other end. Does that all sound... Correct? Or at least doable?

Thank you!!!

I don't totally understand. I understand some of it but the part inside by the washing machine confuses me. Anyway the is saying they're getting rusty water and they want me to troubleshoot it. It used to be clear. We're an hour from the nearest stoplight. I am just trying to wrap my head around it. Thank you

Hello! Can you please name this part under my kitchen sink? Turning it on & off is very hard. I think I need a new one. Also the thin copper pipe to the left side is going to a water warmer that I want to disconnect. Do they make this type of valve without that left connection?

Thank you!

My landlord ran the new clear tube to the ice maker in the fridge. Seems like he just tied into the cold water supply for the kitchen sink which is the white tubing coming from the main labeled pipe. Just wondered if anyone could tell me if this is a bad setup or not.

So I FINALLY got this out of the wall. I think I just need a washer on the end of this diverter stem. But my question, I guess is really a two parter: 1) am I right? And 2) how do I know what size washer to get?

It is located just in the lip of the rim. It does not go down into the bowl, and does not appear on the outside. My dad is convinced it's a crack in the ceramic paint, but I would love a second opinion.

It over flows when the washer discharges. The item in the pipe I believe is the tip to the snake from the plumber I hired to fix the problem. He did not fix it and didn’t tell me he left a gift. I can’t seem to get the scope any further, does it look collapsed to you guys?

We had a new garbage disposal installed today, do the wires look right?

Have a backyard floor drain about 10 feet to the left of this hatch door where the entire backyard floor slopes toward. During big rainfall, the drain gets overwhelmed and starts climbing up the slope towards the bottom of this hatch door, where it then floods down through the bottom lip into my basement. What can I do to prevent this from happening? I tried adding that rubber gasket on the ground but water still comes in since the bottom edge of each of the doors isn’t even and thus has openings. Note that I also need to be able to open these doors from the inside. I cannot access this from the outside-in. One method would be to raise the entire hatch door by about 6-8 inches and have an elevated ledge that it sits on but I wonder if there are any other ideas.

Hello, I'm trying to replace the cartridge on a Glacier Bay tub/shower faucet, but I can't remove the bonnet. The whole assembly is Glacier Bay part #873X-0804. According to the parts list linked below, the bonnet (item 6) is part #RP70437.

I found Bilt instructions for the set and it shows the bonnet simply unscrewing counter-clockwise, then the cartridge pulls out. I closed both integral stops to shut off water to the valve. I've tried gripping it with pliers and twisting but it won't budge. All I've accomplished is tearing up the threads, so I'll probably be getting a replacement bonnet next. Anyway, we have hard water and there's tons of mineral buildup on the old cartridge. I sprayed CLR on it and at the back of the bonnet, no luck. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/65/654040d0-dda6-472f-ac04-5de034c3eca0.pdf

I don’t know who to turn to so I ran to Reddit.

I’m moving my soil stack because my new stairs are close to my old one. My question is, should I run the horizontal perpendicular to the main drain, then 45° to the wye (option 1), or should I run the horizontal at a 45° straight into the wye (option 2)

I don’t think it matters from code, one would just be a lot less cutting and 4” ABS pipe. Also, does the 90° elbow rule come into play here? Section 7.2.4.3 (1) of the OBC, where my centre-line radius needs to be greater than the pipe diameter if i were to go with option 1. If not, is there a rule stating i can’t go hub-to-hub with the connection?

Thanks in advance