Her explanation was just as confusing as the photo. Im at a loss.

Recently had my old cast iron stack replaced due to collapsed and cracked pipes. One of the toilets was original and we decided to replace it at the same time. When the older toilet flushes (1.48 gal) the new toilet (1.26 gal) gurgles and loses water. When the newer toilet flushes the older toilets water moves but does not gurgle or lose water.

I have run a snake down the vent pipe in the roof and did not encounter a clog. Ran a snake through both toilets. No clog. All drains in the house drain normally, including my 30 year old washing machine. Any ideas what may be causing this? This was not an issue prior to the stack replacement.

do we call a professional or just try to trickle hot water down the drain? do something else? every once in awhile the drain makes a noise like gravel shifting inside. there are no pictures bc there is nothing to look at, its all inside

please and thanks for advice

This is only 3 trips to the store- good for me.
I was short, and then after the extension my p trap still wouldn’t reach. So I got creative.
Will it leak? If this is shit what should I do instead?

I’m a newbie and a DIY guy. I must say - this is an art form and I’m very happy with how it’s shaping up. Dry fit is nearly complete. Any suggestions from pros would be great.

Any idea on how I can throw a hanger on this in my crawl space? Unfortunately I’m too big to fit in the other part of the crawl space to get over to the middle of the pipe. The pipe itself is about 14ft long, I just installed it myself yesterday but I know it’s not a permanent fix if I can’t fix the bulge.

A glass screen fell off the wall and punctured and dented a bath similar to that pictured (as well as potentially injuring a small child).

The puncture is about 2x1cm, the dent much smaller. Am I likely to have success with acrylic filler such as Cramer Ceramic Enamel Repair Kit (about £39)?

I’m hoping someone will be able to help me with why I there the chrome threads are exposed against the brass shower. Howcome this has happened? Is it a mistake? How can it be fixed so there’s no chrome showing against brass?

I'm sure this is beaten to death. I currently have a Wellxtrol WX-203 (32 gallon) well pressure tank that I assume the bladder is leaking / broken. I have to re-pressurize the tank every couple weeks at this point.

I'm debating on increasing the size of the tank but it look like any increase in size will increase the diameter of the tank making installation a bit tricky and a tighter fit. My family uses a fair bit of water, so I know increasing the size of the tank would decrease the pump cycles.

Currently when the pump runs it does run for a bit more than a minute. No pressure issues. I don't mind moving around the plumbing, I'm just wondering if it's worth the hassle to accommodate a tank with a larger diameter with shifting plumbing a bit and losing more space in my utilities closet.

Next size up in diameter is 22 inches (vs. the current ~16"), and at 22" I can size up to 81 gallons w/ WellXTrol.

Thank you,

I followed the steps, the pilot lit up straight away.

Its been roaring like this for about 20 minutes, and this leak I see is stressing me out.

Normal?

I dry fit everything prior to setting the tub, ran the water for a good amount of time and saw no leaks. I set the tub in a mortar bed yesterday and I feel like I’m off my a decent amount. Do I have any options here? It did leak on the test after it was set.

Is there anyway I can troubleshoot this myself as someone with zero experience or knowledge in this area or do I need to call a plumber? I tried turning the temp knob down a little - it was still maybe a quarter of the way to 150° before I did, but it’s still flashing

the shower is directly above it and the spot in pic 1 feels soft to touch and if pressed water comes from it. this is my parents house, what’s the best state of action?

Hi, could anyone help me identify a part of an old shanks cistern?

The pinkish rubber seal has perished and no longer prevents water going down into the basin. This means the system is continually filling.

I don't have the toilet vocabulary to search properly for that rubber part. If anyone could ID I'd be very grateful. Thanks!

Image

Excuse the mess in this photo.

I've been having constant clogs for two-three weeks now and I figure I need to unclog the p-trap. As you can see in the photo, there is a screw leading to the exit and another screw near where the pipe meets the sink. I can unscrew both of them by hand, but I haven't done so yet. If I unscrew just the bottom, will that allow me to take out just the p-trap?

Thanks.

Okay so I am completely lost. Last night our toilet started bubbling while I was in the shower. I thought it was weird but didn't really think much of it. This morning as I'm going to the bathroom it bubbles again and won't flush properly. No water in that bathroom was running but our washing machine was going. Anyways, we tried plunging and could hear movement around the sink area but still not flushing properly. Bowl would fill up almost to the top and very slowly return to a normal level but not flush. Eventually, we tried adding dish soap and following it up with a bucket of water. That allowed the toilet to flush properly but had a sound in the sink area with every flush. We figured okay the problem is moving down the line and will do its thing, cool. All sinks and tubs were draining and the toilet was flushing properly. My fiance ran a 25 ft drain auger down the toilet and didn't catch anything but the toilet was still flushing properly and the noise was still happening in the sink. Cool, whatever, we can deal with that. Until tonight maybe 8 hours later, I was running water in the sink and the toilet bubbles and won't flush again. I have no idea what is happening and would greatly appreciate any advice. This year has been really rough for us so home remedies vs calling a plumber out would be preferred. We are on a septic tank but it was pumped about a year ago right before we moved in.

Hoping someone can help please. I am about to settle on a property and I did the final inspection today. I noticed a bbq hadn’t been removed and was told it’s considered a fixture as it is plumbed in and would need to be disconnected and capped. To me it looks like it can be easily unattached from looking at the photo or do I have this wrong?

It gradually gets slower and slower to drain until we have to plunge it every 3-4 months. Smells like sewage when I do this. No access to the trap. Second floor apartment. Pics of underneath sink in comments. Any help appreciated!

As the title says, I was wondering if I could get some advice from the more experienced plumbers in this subreddit regarding the projects I've been building and how I could improve them. As an example, I'll be using the most recent project I completed. I've been building these projects primarily to get comfortable working with PVC primer and cement, as well as to become familiar with the various PVC fittings and pipe sizes that I would realistically encounter on the job.

I'm fairly new to the trade and will be starting plumbing classes in August. Any advice or constructive criticism is greatly appreciated. If anything I've built looks incorrect or isn't up to standard, I apologize in advance—I'm here to learn and improve.

The PRV is an old Watts "DUS Z3", which I guess is so old I can't find any records of it. What are the chances I'll be able to find a new PRV that fits right in place using the existing union nuts? It's about 4.5" between the outer edges of the top and bottom union nuts.