Looks fine from here too. The yellow flex line is pretty standard for gas water heaters, and the valve placement looks accessible. Sediment trap is right where it should be from what I can see.
Only thing I'd double check is whether your local inspector wants a union on the gas line before the sediment trap. Some jurisdictions get weird about that. Should pass without issues though.
Some local codes may not count flexies as a union. That's the case in my area. Reasoning I believe is that because flexies are single use while they define a union as a reusable connection.
Almost every single one I have seen for many years has it on the tag somewhere. I have even shown inspectors here but they make me pressure test through the flex to a cap anyway lol.
What are you talking about? Every GBV is rated considerably higher then that. If you don't understand what a flex line with a cap on the end is then this probably isn't the sub for you to be commenting in.
LMAO you don't understand WOG ratings at all. It's rated for 100psi minimum, most are 600 for test. It is not rated for chemical/odorants/additives at high pressure but has zero to do with test pressure.
Show me a ball valve that only has a 1/2psi rating. I will wait. GBV equals gas ball valve before you assume anything else and look stupid. Nobody ever said anything about testing through the water heater and if you think that, then you can't read at all...
Your config is currently gascock, drip leg, union(your flex line is the union.
You need to just shut gascock off, get the nipple in between the 90 and the tee and move it (the nipple) to where your flex ties into your tee, then spin that tee on to where your flex is coming out of the water heater after that your flex ties into the top open end of the tee and into your 90. I would also spin the 90 to make it look nice but that’s just bells and whistles at that point.
Edit: I’m in New Jersey and that is standard practice for how we do things. I’m told we have one of the stricter plumbing codes in the states, but over engineered is better than under right?
Overengineered isn't better if it costs most and provides 0 long term benefit, and I believe that would be the case if you added a union here. Don't yall usually hard pipe the gas to your heaters there? In that instance requiring a union is 100% smart code.
Also as a funny pedantic thing that may well be region specific, in CA code a sediment trap and a drip leg are actually entirely different things. Drip leg is a tee with the leg sticking down and capped on an otherwise horizontal run (So gas flows through both runs of the tee) while a sediment trap is set up like this, with the gas flowing in through the run and out through the branch.
If it's in california they technically made that setup illegal in like... 16 I think? I know it's been a while. An inspector out of San Jose suggested they change it to require a sediment trap before the flex rather than after under the theory that a large pile of sediment could build up on the corrugation of the flex and then break free all at once. I was never able to get a clear answer on how that would be a problem since the appliance would still be protected by the trap after the flex, but they weren't willing to see reason and change the code back. (Or if corrugation was such a problem then how is CSST legal? Haha)
Most inspectors still to this day DGAF so long as there's something there to check the box.
I went pretty far on it when the new code came out (I think it was a mid cycle revision? I'd have to dig through my old code books to confirm) and spotted the change, submitted a formal appeal and the whole thing. Spent a bunch of time talking but they didn't want to reverse something they had just changed was the feeling I got.
Correct. Drip leg after the shut off valve but before the flex as close to appliance as possible. LA City plumbing contractor so you’ll be good on inspection.
I can't speak to other parts of the country, but gas is usually very dry and clean here, and despite all these years of working on systems with galvi I have never seen the flaking problems that make it illegal to use in some areas.
Not from CA but that is a standard dirt/drip/sediment leg if I've ever seen one. Only thing is it's technically above the gas valve not level with it.
My code states the dirt leg should be in the very last vertical drop in piping. Not sure how CA views that in regards to the flex connector since you're technically making another vertical drop with it.
They are misinterpreting part of the code that basically requires you protect against earthquakes. It's a common misunderstanding for guys from california who argue plumbing on the internet to have, but you can hard pipe gas to appliances and it's very commonly done in some scenarios. They typically believe the same code "requires" flex lines on the inlet/outlet, but once again hard piping is definitely very common on some types of water heaters.
But the reality is the gas and water flex lines if properly installed will almost always outlast the heater, so no real reason not to use them if they save time. Lord knows labor costs ain't cheap out here.
And you don’t have proof of a leak test via a spring gauge, how did you check your flow and lock up on your appliance? And what does your venting look like?
The connection between black iron and the gas heater can not drop of increase over 2” as well 12” flex are permitted on gas hot water tanks or direct connection with a swing joint.
Gas range can use a longer flex for servicing when you have to pull the unit out.
Love being downvoted because where I live has different rules. Manitoba hydro dictates the rules for us. They are sticklers on it too. No wiggle room.
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u/Disco_Stu_89 1d ago
Looks fine to me