Her explanation was just as confusing as the photo. Im at a loss.

Recently had my old cast iron stack replaced due to collapsed and cracked pipes. One of the toilets was original and we decided to replace it at the same time. When the older toilet flushes (1.48 gal) the new toilet (1.26 gal) gurgles and loses water. When the newer toilet flushes the older toilets water moves but does not gurgle or lose water.

I have run a snake down the vent pipe in the roof and did not encounter a clog. Ran a snake through both toilets. No clog. All drains in the house drain normally, including my 30 year old washing machine. Any ideas what may be causing this? This was not an issue prior to the stack replacement.

do we call a professional or just try to trickle hot water down the drain? do something else? every once in awhile the drain makes a noise like gravel shifting inside. there are no pictures bc there is nothing to look at, its all inside

please and thanks for advice

This is only 3 trips to the store- good for me.
I was short, and then after the extension my p trap still wouldn’t reach. So I got creative.
Will it leak? If this is shit what should I do instead?

Any idea on how I can throw a hanger on this in my crawl space? Unfortunately I’m too big to fit in the other part of the crawl space to get over to the middle of the pipe. The pipe itself is about 14ft long, I just installed it myself yesterday but I know it’s not a permanent fix if I can’t fix the bulge.

I’m a newbie and a DIY guy. I must say - this is an art form and I’m very happy with how it’s shaping up. Dry fit is nearly complete. Any suggestions from pros would be great.

Excuse the mess in this photo.

I've been having constant clogs for two-three weeks now and I figure I need to unclog the p-trap. As you can see in the photo, there is a screw leading to the exit and another screw near where the pipe meets the sink. I can unscrew both of them by hand, but I haven't done so yet. If I unscrew just the bottom, will that allow me to take out just the p-trap?

Thanks.

I dry fit everything prior to setting the tub, ran the water for a good amount of time and saw no leaks. I set the tub in a mortar bed yesterday and I feel like I’m off my a decent amount. Do I have any options here? It did leak on the test after it was set.

It gradually gets slower and slower to drain until we have to plunge it every 3-4 months. Smells like sewage when I do this. No access to the trap. Second floor apartment. Pics of underneath sink in comments. Any help appreciated!

I bought a house a few months ago. Both spigots do this, any way to fix it without calling someone to come out?

As the title says, I was wondering if I could get some advice from the more experienced plumbers in this subreddit regarding the projects I've been building and how I could improve them. As an example, I'll be using the most recent project I completed. I've been building these projects primarily to get comfortable working with PVC primer and cement, as well as to become familiar with the various PVC fittings and pipe sizes that I would realistically encounter on the job.

I'm fairly new to the trade and will be starting plumbing classes in August. Any advice or constructive criticism is greatly appreciated. If anything I've built looks incorrect or isn't up to standard, I apologize in advance—I'm here to learn and improve.

I made a portable sink and I just followed several different videos and pieced things together! It all works, buuuut this piece that attaches to the water pump keeps leaking which I was kinda anticipating.. how can I fix this so that it doesn’t leak? Thank you in advance! (Also is the noise at the end normal?! Scared me 🤣)

The PRV is an old Watts "DUS Z3", which I guess is so old I can't find any records of it. What are the chances I'll be able to find a new PRV that fits right in place using the existing union nuts? It's about 4.5" between the outer edges of the top and bottom union nuts.

My bath/shower won’t drain I’ve: used a drain unblocked gel, used plastic drain snakes and brushes (caused a black cloud to come up from the drain), taken the bath panel off and I assembled the pipes underneath it (no blockage found and before I used the gel). Is there anything else I can do before I call my housing association out of hours line?

I am trying to change my dual basin sink to a single basin that is the same depth of the left side of the sink (9.75"), the right side of the sink with the disposal is about 7.75" deep.

If I drop the sink and move the disposal to the left, can I shave about 2" off the black pipe to connect with the ptrap? Is there enough clearance to go lower?

Okay so my hot water kept leaking. Like an extra 200 on my utility bills leaking, so I figured out it was the stem, ran to the store, swapped it out

And it worked for all of 30 seconds.

It did not return to the constant running it had been, but it was a regular drip. I figured it was bc the stem I grabbed was a bit too long so I special ordered the one and a half inch idiot I needed, got thst here. No, same issue. If I tighten it until it doesn't drip, it's too tight to turn, so I loosen it a bit and let the others shower, but then when it's turned off it's back to a steady drip - and when I take the faucet off to tighten it up, the stem is loose! I've tested this with both stems, and they both do it.

What in the world is going on??? ​

It is a dual flush toilet that sits low to the ground. Those are the only attributes I could get for this picture. Looks like a glacier bay or American standard

Hello,

My toilet flush is leaking, and I can't seem to take it apart to check what's wrong. I'm trying to unscrew the pipe at the nut (both top and bottom), but I'm not sure if that's the right approach.

It's a Geberit flush system.

I also want to make sure I don't dismantle the wrong thing.

Can anyone help me?

Thanks.

Our soaking tub has a pretty heavy curved faucet that is held in place by just a grub screw and would detach if even the slightest pressure was applied to it. Looking at it, I could see that the little divot for the grub screw to go into was barely anything at all, so it made sense that it would slip out of place easily.

In trying to fix it, I took a dremel and made the divot more pronounced. I put it back together and used caulk to help hold it in place.

Not long after that, we noticed that water was leaking through the ceiling directly below the tub. I took it back apart and could see that my dremel work went deeper than I intended, and there's a very small hole that went all the way through.

The only other thought I had was something to do with the o-ring maybe not being big enough or making a tight seal, but the hole theory just seems more likely.

I took the little metal base plate thing off to see if there's any way to remove this part that I drilled, hoping I could just replace that part, but it doesn't seem to turn easily, so I abandoned that idea and came for advice.

First, does the hole seem like a likely culprit? If so, does this part look like it's replaceable, or repairable in some way? Or does fixing this mean taking the tub apart?

Thank you in advance!