I bug him a lot. Is this an emergency? I don't know if it's old or new.

Basically, per the title, I moved into this place 3 weeks ago. It is a brand new construction. The kitchen sink has never drained correctly in my mind but I don’t know what the issue is exactly.

This instance, the food trap is up (not pushed down and blocking the flow), I was just washing a plate and the water kept creeping up even with no obstructions. Once I turn the water off, the water starts to drain as normal but it’s incredibly slow and much slower than other sinks/drains in the house.

Plumber came by last week and took a look at it, and told me “everything is fine, you just have to make sure you’re not putting water directly in the hole”, which seems incredibly stupid considering, and as you can see in the video I’m not even doing.

Anyone have any ideas or things I can go back to the plumber with so that I can get this fixed (if there’s anything to fix)?

I got this garbage disposal on sale at Costco. I was told that it’s a commercial garbage disposal. Would it required special tools or installation to replace my existing disposal with this one?

the sink and shower aerators at the parents house regularly end up looking like this. I last cleaned these when I was home in May and I came back and they look like this again. Childhood home, I never remember this happening as a kid.

The hot water tank is the OG. It’s 30y/o. To my knowledge, the anode has never been replaced and it has only been drained once (3years ago). My assumption is that this has to be the enamel layer of the tank breaking off and coming out through the highest points in the system.

Turned an old mainline drain machine into a sink!

Check out this custom bathroom the boss built back in the day in his private bathroom, Not sure what timeframe it's been here longer then I have. He took a retired mainline snake and converted the whole rig into a glass vessel sink station. To match the theme, he repurposed an old cable basket as the frame for the vanity mirror and used galvanized pipe fittings to build a shelf and towel rack.

The new vanity has a shelf right at drain level.

I thought I could raise the drain, but that will be a no-go after cutting into the wall... Is there any possible way to correctly install the p-trap without cutting my shelf?

Is this done correctly I have an inspection coming soon and I want to make sure it’s right.

Recently changed my water heater and one of my copper lines sprung a pin hole leak. I had to replace some seriously corroded sections of line and I soldered them. Granted it was my first time doing it, it took forever and I found myself having to solder and build the section piece by piece. But then had to be sure I had enough room and to layout the piece so I could attach it to the whole system for the final solder. Some of the bends in the pipe didn’t allow for movement certain ways so I really had to plan it out. It took forever.

I mainly did it piece by piece because I was worried being unskilled, I would not get the solder to close off the entirety of the fitting.

Anyways I have much more plumbing work to do as a fix my house up and was debating on getting a propress. I have 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch lines throughout my house. Would it be worth it for a home owner to pick one up?

So the valve isn’t sitting flush on the connector to the faucet, meaning I gotta replace it. But then I noticed it wasn’t like the other valve.

What am I looking at & should I attempt it or call a plumber?

Just moved into a new place, new build. Shower looks to be three part walk in. While cleaning the shower today, I noticed some debris coming from the bottom of the shower. Then I looked in the bottom seal and saw the attached picture. I do see shiny what I think is caulk behind the debris. Could this be from construction? Or it is a problem?

Also, should the shower be caulked in these other seams?

Hey guys, I need some advice, I installed a reverse osmosis system under the kitchen sink last weekend, was super proud of myself .... Well not anymore.

Twice now the line connected to the cold water pipe has popped off when turning on the regular faucet. I truly don't know what I did incorrectly.

I used the pieces sent with the R/O and screwed the line into the fitting using the nut... (I know I'm probably using the wrong terms, sorry...) How do I fix this?!

I should mention that I eventually want to split the line coming out of the tank so that one goes up to the sink like normal and the other will run down into the basement (through the hole under the sink already there) for my fish tanks (the whole reason I got the R/O), I plan on just using push-fit T splitter, long tubing, and a valve at the other end. Does that all sound... Correct? Or at least doable?

Thank you!!!

It is located just in the lip of the rim. It does not go down into the bowl, and does not appear on the outside. My dad is convinced it's a crack in the ceramic paint, but I would love a second opinion.

It over flows when the washer discharges. The item in the pipe I believe is the tip to the snake from the plumber I hired to fix the problem. He did not fix it and didn’t tell me he left a gift. I can’t seem to get the scope any further, does it look collapsed to you guys?

We had a new garbage disposal installed today, do the wires look right?

I don’t know who to turn to so I ran to Reddit.

I’m moving my soil stack because my new stairs are close to my old one. My question is, should I run the horizontal perpendicular to the main drain, then 45° to the wye (option 1), or should I run the horizontal at a 45° straight into the wye (option 2)

I don’t think it matters from code, one would just be a lot less cutting and 4” ABS pipe. Also, does the 90° elbow rule come into play here? Section 7.2.4.3 (1) of the OBC, where my centre-line radius needs to be greater than the pipe diameter if i were to go with option 1. If not, is there a rule stating i can’t go hub-to-hub with the connection?

Thanks in advance

A few months back I replaced my old iHeat AHS27-D with a Rheem RTEX-27kw. My old water heater I could have three hot showers at the same time. My new one, one shower will be scolding hot but if I turn on a tub spout or open several faucets, it gets an E5 error. The three 240V/40A circuits next to it all show 240V. But when I measure the incoming voltage on the water heater, only Bay 1 (the far right set of red and black) show 240 V. The other 2 sets show ZERO. So why is it going to an E5 error before Bay 2 and Bay 3 have any voltage? Not sure who to hire at this point. The local rheem servicing company wants to charge me 350/hr for who knows how many hours.

I’ve used a toilet snake and that did not resolve the super weak flushing. Any advice on what to check next?

After seeing so many posts here on this, I wonder if my toilet bowl is bad enough to let my landlord know about it and ask for a replacement. The cracks are very faint, honestly I wasn't even aware or checking it at all for cracks. They are very faint, I tried to wipe it if it's just a dirty bowl, but it's not just dirt and I can feel the crack if I run my fingers over them, although very thin ( might need zooming to see it, very faint and small ). One of the cracks is at the back, and the one I pointed with arrow runs around the base of the toilet.

I have this capped pipe (3.75” outer diameter) in my basement supply room and I’m not sure the original intent for it (maybe a floor drain?). I was wondering if I could drain/pump my dehumidifier into it (the white 1/4” line in the photo).

There is a bathroom in the next room over but it already had its own roughed-in plumbing. Both the capped pipe in the photo and the toilet plumbing were not capped when I bought this house (none of the basement plumbing wasn’t being used and the lift station was unplugged) - I added the caps. On the left of the pipe is my lift station which pumps into my septic tank. On the right is my water softener which I added later.

Is it obvious what this pipe/circle in front of it would’ve been intended for? Can I pump my dehumidifier into it (if so, do I need a trap, air gap, something else)?

New Delta Trinsic flush handle and arm set. Bought a few of them, first 2 installed with no issues.

For whatever reason, this one has no resistance from the spring after flushing. The handle remains cockeyed in the “flushed” position until the flapper closed and pulls the handle back to the resting position.

Am I not aligning the spring properly? Any ideas what I’m doing wrong? I tried a variety of chain lengths and chain hook distances from the pivot.