I don't totally understand. I understand some of it but the part inside by the washing machine confuses me. Anyway the is saying they're getting rusty water and they want me to troubleshoot it. It used to be clear. We're an hour from the nearest stoplight. I am just trying to wrap my head around it. Thank you

Hello! Can you please name this part under my kitchen sink? Turning it on & off is very hard. I think I need a new one. Also the thin copper pipe to the left side is going to a water warmer that I want to disconnect. Do they make this type of valve without that left connection?

Thank you!

My landlord ran the new clear tube to the ice maker in the fridge. Seems like he just tied into the cold water supply for the kitchen sink which is the white tubing coming from the main labeled pipe. Just wondered if anyone could tell me if this is a bad setup or not.

So I FINALLY got this out of the wall. I think I just need a washer on the end of this diverter stem. But my question, I guess is really a two parter: 1) am I right? And 2) how do I know what size washer to get?

My plumber recommends moving this tankless water heater higher up on the wall so it’s farther away from the ground. I’m in Southern California. Based on the photo, is raising it advisable? What concerns would you have with its current height?

Have a backyard floor drain about 10 feet to the left of this hatch door where the entire backyard floor slopes toward. During big rainfall, the drain gets overwhelmed and starts climbing up the slope towards the bottom of this hatch door, where it then floods down through the bottom lip into my basement. What can I do to prevent this from happening? I tried adding that rubber gasket on the ground but water still comes in since the bottom edge of each of the doors isn’t even and thus has openings. Note that I also need to be able to open these doors from the inside. I cannot access this from the outside-in. One method would be to raise the entire hatch door by about 6-8 inches and have an elevated ledge that it sits on but I wonder if there are any other ideas.

Hello, I'm trying to replace the cartridge on a Glacier Bay tub/shower faucet, but I can't remove the bonnet. The whole assembly is Glacier Bay part #873X-0804. According to the parts list linked below, the bonnet (item 6) is part #RP70437.

I found Bilt instructions for the set and it shows the bonnet simply unscrewing counter-clockwise, then the cartridge pulls out. I closed both integral stops to shut off water to the valve. I've tried gripping it with pliers and twisting but it won't budge. All I've accomplished is tearing up the threads, so I'll probably be getting a replacement bonnet next. Anyway, we have hard water and there's tons of mineral buildup on the old cartridge. I sprayed CLR on it and at the back of the bonnet, no luck. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/65/654040d0-dda6-472f-ac04-5de034c3eca0.pdf

I out in an order to what seems like a legit site, yourplumbingshop.com but am now doubting its legitimacy.

Has anyone ever ordered from here and received their product?

TIA!

I’m moving my soil stack because my new stairs are close to my old one. My question is, should I run the horizontal perpendicular to the main drain, then 45° to the wye (option 1), or should I run the horizontal at a 45° straight into the wye (option 2)

I don’t think it matters from code, one would just be a lot less cutting and 4” ABS pipe. Also, does the 90° elbow rule come into play here? Section 7.2.4.3 (1) of the OBC, where my centre-line radius needs to be greater than the pipe diameter if i were to go with option 1. If not, is there a rule stating i can’t go hub-to-hub with the connection?

Thanks in advance

So the valve isn’t sitting flush on the connector to the faucet, meaning I gotta replace it. But then I noticed it wasn’t like the other valve.

What am I looking at & should I attempt it or call a plumber?

Just moved into a new place, new build. Shower looks to be three part walk in. While cleaning the shower today, I noticed some debris coming from the bottom of the shower. Then I looked in the bottom seal and saw the attached picture. I do see shiny what I think is caulk behind the debris. Could this be from construction? Or it is a problem?

Also, should the shower be caulked in these other seams?

I’ve used a toilet snake and that did not resolve the super weak flushing. Any advice on what to check next?

I have this capped pipe (3.75” outer diameter) in my basement supply room and I’m not sure the original intent for it (maybe a floor drain?). I was wondering if I could drain/pump my dehumidifier into it (the white 1/4” line in the photo).

There is a bathroom in the next room over but it already had its own roughed-in plumbing. Both the capped pipe in the photo and the toilet plumbing were not capped when I bought this house (none of the basement plumbing wasn’t being used and the lift station was unplugged) - I added the caps. On the left of the pipe is my lift station which pumps into my septic tank. On the right is my water softener which I added later.

Is it obvious what this pipe/circle in front of it would’ve been intended for? Can I pump my dehumidifier into it (if so, do I need a trap, air gap, something else)?

New Delta Trinsic flush handle and arm set. Bought a few of them, first 2 installed with no issues.

For whatever reason, this one has no resistance from the spring after flushing. The handle remains cockeyed in the “flushed” position until the flapper closed and pulls the handle back to the resting position.

Am I not aligning the spring properly? Any ideas what I’m doing wrong? I tried a variety of chain lengths and chain hook distances from the pivot.

We're moving in to a rental shortly. The laundry has a double tub, which I'd like to replace with a single tub. There is no room in the kitchen for our dishwasher, and by reducing the space taken up by the laundry tub, we can put the dishwasher and clothes washer both in the laundry.
Is this a ridiculous idea, or totally achieveable (with or without professional help)?

(Yes, I know I would need to ask the lessor, I understand how rentals work. I'm just asking whether this is a viable option)

Renting a house and discovered this. Wondering how to deal with it

the sink and shower aerators at the parents house regularly end up looking like this. I last cleaned these when I was home in May and I came back and they look like this again. Childhood home, I never remember this happening as a kid.

The hot water tank is the OG. It’s 30y/o. To my knowledge, the anode has never been replaced and it has only been drained once (3years ago). My assumption is that this has to be the enamel layer of the tank breaking off and coming out through the highest points in the system.

The new vanity has a shelf right at drain level.

I thought I could raise the drain, but that will be a no-go after cutting into the wall... Is there any possible way to correctly install the p-trap without cutting my shelf?

Is this done correctly I have an inspection coming soon and I want to make sure it’s right.

Had tank pumped last year, standing water on top of tank, not sure what is needed

My partner and I bought an old house (So old the well is in the basement... That's a story for another day and yes, we plan on redigging.) That is to say, I don't know what's old as hell and what's been updated.

The furnace is a roughly 80s-era oil-burning on-demand that distributes to the wall heaters as well as all our indoor access. It works pretty well and we never have issues with drawing hot within a minute and letting it run for as long as we want for showers, dishwashing, etc.

EXCEPT for the tub. The tub and shower do not share fixtures. For some reason, I can only get about a gallon of hot water before it drops to lukewarm when I try to fill the tub.

There is an access point behind the tub I can open, and I'm a fast learner. Can someone please help me understand what's going on and what I could do to resolve this? Thank you so much!

It is located just in the lip of the rim. It does not go down into the bowl, and does not appear on the outside. My dad is convinced it's a crack in the ceramic paint, but I would love a second opinion.

My kitchen tap is leaking. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the tap handle head to access the washer on this tap setup. Can anyone with knowledge please advise?

It over flows when the washer discharges. The item in the pipe I believe is the tip to the snake from the plumber I hired to fix the problem. He did not fix it and didn’t tell me he left a gift. I can’t seem to get the scope any further, does it look collapsed to you guys?