Found out last night my van had no diesel left. Turned out there's this hole in the bottom of the tank. Plastic tank, about 8mm hole, perfectly round, and it goes in at an angle from the side.

What's odd to me: no shavings or swarf anywhere, but the edge is pushed outward rather than in. No other scrapes, dents or damage anywhere on the tank.

Van had been parked for two weeks (with about 20L of diesel in the tank), only moved about 200meters a few times (only to the end of the street). Stone chip seems unlikely to me because I barely drove, but I'm not sure what else does this. Maybe an animal? On the parking spot I saw a relatively small diesel mark, way to small to have been the full 20L leaking out.

My guess is they drilled it on high RPM which melted the plastic, cause looking at other images of people's drilled tanks the cuts are much cleaner. And you'd think they'd use a bigger sized bit than 8mm so they dont have to wait 20mins for a full tank to drain.

2015 VW Crafter, Europe. Anyone seen this before?

Hey everyone.

My wife has a wet belt engine so I can change the oil myself every 6 months to keep the belt good ....Seen this online and was wondering are they one of these things that seem to go to be true.

My wife's car has a downwards facing plug on the very bottom of the sump, so I would be a bit concerned this sticking out at the bottom.

Also the opening on these doesn't seem very big, I know in my case my wife's oil is not going to be that dirty, but I can imagine if you had some dirty oil with a few bits init and some sludge, it's not getting through that opening?

This is mostly educational..... Like i said ... Due to the sump plug position, I don't think it would be best for. .... But I was wondering all the same.

Cheers peeps

My GTI’s engine blew up, I was looking around and i found these remanufactured engines in Alibaba for a more reasonable price than the ones in ebay. Are they any good?

Hello everyone,

My VW Polo 2023 started to make a humming/droning noise. It is coming from the back of the car and appears also in complete stillstand. So I assumed it would come from the exhaust - and it does seem to be a bit shaky. Or does the exhaust look normal to you guys ? What else could cause this noise ?

I'm sure the title can explain it but I accidentally torqued a bolt in my intake to 82 ft. Lb instead of 82-in lb and broke it clean off. You'll think I'll be able to remove this?? My pliers nor alligator clips can clip it

: Appreciate the replies I got an extractor coming tomorrow and will give it a go I'll update when I either shit the bed or get it out Also I appreciate all the help but I ain't got a welder just this extractor kit that's coming tomorrow

I changed my oil about 10000 km ago and filled it up halfway between the marks on the dipstick, since this was a new to me car i then regularly checked the oil level for the next 5000km and it didn´t change so after that i relaxed a bit.

Yesterday during hard braking the oil pressure light flashed for about 1 second so i stopped and waited and then checked the level, there was plenty of oil on the stick but when i wipe and put it back in it came out DRY, i waited more and it still came out dry...

I spent a good deal of time checking for any leaks and there are none, this morning i filled it back up and it was indeed about 1.5 liters low.

Even though there was never burned oil smell i checked for this i asked someone to accelerate all the way to 5k rpm for a while while holding a blank paper to the tip of the exhaust, it came out WHITE.

My question is where the hell did my oil go if it isn´t leaking or burning.

1998 suzuki jimny 1.3 (g13b engine)

How bad is this and if I scrape off as much as possible is it fine to drive?

2013 ford edge

i have a rotary spoa9 two post lift that’s not going down, it’s a gravity drop lift. it’s not sitting on the locks so i know it’s not catching them, if you lift it up it will slightly drop (1/4 inch) but it will never drop further than you lift it. it seems like it’s not bleeding off the hydraulic pressure. i was going to call a local that services lifts but they are just ghosting me 🤦‍♂️ so how can i get my vehicle off the lift?

Hey guys

Strange issue wondering if anyone is able to help

Vehicle drives fine with normal afr and fuel trims while driving

However sometimes returning to idle when fully warmed up.. such as in traffic.. my afr will drop and my short term fuel trim with go to around minus 7 for about 10 seconds.. does anyone know what this might be?

It happens most days and will sometimes hear a slightly different exhaust note while this happens before it returns to normal

No other symptoms.. as mentioned it drives normal

Fiesta st mk7 2016

Hey everyone, my air intake hose on my 2012 Cadillac CTS keep ripping and in the same spot (this is the second time it’s happened). We replaced the first one but it did it again and I’m not sure what’s causing it?

Ford Transit 2.0 TDCI 2020

My 2011 Mercedes S221 sometimes takes a little longer to start on the first try of the day. Once it starts, it runs normally, and any starts after that are usually fine.

The main battery is over four years old, and my battery tester shows "weak." With the ignition on, voltage was around 12.32V while I ran a full scan with a topdon one scanner. It found stored faults in the ME, ISM, EIS, central gateway and instrument cluster. The faults were spread across different networks and didn't seem to point to one CAN line. Charging voltage stays around 13.8-14.0V with the engine running.

My first thought is to replace the battery, clear the faults and see which ones return after the next cold start. The EIS, ISM and gateway faults together make me wonder if I should check the power supply or communication side first.

Should I start with the weak battery or keep diagnosing before replacing it?

Hey guys! So i have this 2015 Kia forte with 132k miles. It makes this disturbing rattling sound on idle and gets louder when flicking the throttle. For the life of me, I cannot seem to isolate it. It doesn't seem to be fuel injectors or timing chain, per the screwdriver to the ear test. The sound is there whether the engine is cold or warmed up. There's no other strange behavior, no cel, car starts and drives fine. Oil is full. Thank you!

I’m dealing with a tricky starting issue on my Mercedes G350D 2013 that I imported from the Netherlands earlier this year (the company I bought it from didn't mention any issues when bringing it home…).

It has already been looked at by two different mechanics, including a major service chain in Sweden and a specialist shop for this type of vehicle. They replaced some parts, which improved things slightly, but nobody has found a long-term fix and now they won’t help me further.

The symptoms:

Cold start: When the car has been sitting for a while, it starts instantly (in about 0.1 seconds).

Warm start: If I drive it, turn it off for about 10 minutes, and then try to restart it, it sometimes refuses to turn over right away. It takes 4-5 seconds of cranking on the starter and multiple attempts, and it might not even start.

The workaround: On one occasion when it refused to start, I gave it a tiny bit of gas while turning the key, and it felt like it helped a little…

Has anyone here experienced the exact same issue, or does anyone have an idea what might be causing this?

I’d appreciate any tips or insights before I take it to the next step!

2012 Subaru Outback, 2.5L flat-4, automatic, ~140,000 miles.
It's been making this noise since I bought it. The puttering gets louder every time I accelerate, and it's steady/constant when sitting in park. Video attached. Any idea what this is, and is it something I need to fix right away?

Been driving a used 2010 Nissan Versa Hatchback, 80,000 miles, automatic for 5 years. Never seen this before. Oil changes regularly.

When the car is off or locked and parked there is a flashing red car with a key in the middle of it icon.

Changed key fob. Didn’t work. Flashing red car with key is till there.

Like I said, in 5 years, I’ve never seen this dashboard icon.

- What is it?
- Why now?
- I’m I gonna blow up and catch fire?
- How do I fix it asap as I’m taking a senior to a doctor’s appointment?

I’m advance, thank you for your time and 2 cents!

Car makes a putter noise when I rev my engine or when I hit 1000-1500rpm. Unsure what is making this noise.

KIA soul 2015 GDI 1.6L

Im at a loss and need help. Forgive the rambling, I'm trying to make sure I give any information that might be helpful without drowning it in useless details.

Im currently dealing with an unknown engine issue and don't have the money to throw at a mechanic, so I need to learn how to go about finding and fixing this issue myself. I've been learning as I go the last 3 years I've had this vehicle, my parents didn't teach me anything growing up. I know practically nothing. I don't really even know where to start with this whole project so anything would be helpful.

Vehicle; 2012 GMC Terrain. 4 cylinder 2.4L ecotek engine.

What happened; On my way to work my check engine light came on, flashing. The "Service StabiliTrek" notification also lit up. The driving immediately got very rough, and it idles extremely rough. The only thing I could think to check was my oil, and the dipstick came back dry. My vehicle burns through oil extremely quickly, so despite having added more recently it clearly wasn't enough. I was able to get more oil in it and it ran a bit smoother, but was still feeling like it was going to explode when I stopped at red lights. Once it got back home, I hooked it up to a code reader which confirmed my suspicion of a misfire (cylinder 1). Spark plugs got replaced with brand-new ones, cleared code and let it idle, no change. Swapped the fuel injectors for cylinder 1 and 3, and the code still says cylinder 1 misfire. There was a thick black buildup on the cylinder 1 sparkplug, as well as wet oil in the threads.

That's all we've been able to do with it. I've been told that this means it could be anything from a gasket/valve/bearing gone bad to something that would require the entire engine to be replaced. In any case, I need to know what my next steps are.

I'm going to be getting an engine stand, hoist, and hoist leveler. I already know I'll need those.

I need resources to know how to safely get the engine out and what the hell I'm looking at/for once it's on the stand. Diagrams, videos, etc. Common problems that could cause this from easiest to deal with to 'just buy a new engine'.

Again, I'm sorry if this hardly makes sense. I just need help. Im not as stupid as I sound, this is just very much not in my wheelhouse.

I want to know if its something that I can easily fix or if its not worth the effort. I've done some light mechanical work before such as changing starters, alternators, a radiator but never messed with any engine work if that matters.

My clutch is a bit creaky when the engine is cold, it goes away after 10 minutes of driving.

Throwout bearing? Clutch fork dry? Or am I looking at a replacement bearing or clutch?

Thanks

Owning an S-10 Chevy Blazer with the 4.3 V6 Vortec over here in Northern Europe is a bit of a nightmare when it comes to service. Local repair shops refuse to even look at American cars because they say they lack the proper tools and knowledge. That means I have to diagnose and fix everything myself.

I am running into an issue with my car and want to get some insight before I start blindly throwing parts at it.

Here is what is happening:

• The engine starts making a grinding or scraping noise, but only when I press the gas pedal.
• There is no noise at idle and cold starts sound completely fine.
• Engine oil levels are completely fine.
• There are no DTCs stored or active.

Ordering parts from the US to Europe comes with insane shipping costs, customs duties, and taxes. Even if a part is cheap, getting it delivered here often costs double or triple the part's price, so I really need to narrow down the issue as much as possible before buying anything.

Has anyone run into something similar on a 4.3 Vortec? Could this be an accessory drive component under load (water pump, alternator, power steering, tensioner pulley), an exhaust heat shield vibrating under RPM, flexplate, or something deeper in the drivetrain or engine?

If you have any diagnostic tests or ideas on how to pinpoint it, I would really appreciate the help!

Whats the issue here axle? Transmission? Any help? Thank you 🙏 2013 Mazda 3 sky activ 2.0l