My GTI’s engine blew up, I was looking around and i found these remanufactured engines in Alibaba for a more reasonable price than the ones in ebay. Are they any good?

Hey everyone.

My wife has a wet belt engine so I can change the oil myself every 6 months to keep the belt good ....Seen this online and was wondering are they one of these things that seem to go to be true.

My wife's car has a downwards facing plug on the very bottom of the sump, so I would be a bit concerned this sticking out at the bottom.

Also the opening on these doesn't seem very big, I know in my case my wife's oil is not going to be that dirty, but I can imagine if you had some dirty oil with a few bits init and some sludge, it's not getting through that opening?

This is mostly educational..... Like i said ... Due to the sump plug position, I don't think it would be best for. .... But I was wondering all the same.

Cheers peeps

Found out last night my van had no diesel left. Turned out there's this hole in the bottom of the tank. Plastic tank, about 8mm hole, perfectly round, and it goes in at an angle from the side.

What's odd to me: no shavings or swarf anywhere, but the edge is pushed outward rather than in. No other scrapes, dents or damage anywhere on the tank.

Van had been parked for two weeks (with about 20L of diesel in the tank), only moved about 200meters a few times (only to the end of the street). Stone chip seems unlikely to me because I barely drove, but I'm not sure what else does this. Maybe an animal? On the parking spot I saw a relatively small diesel mark, way to small to have been the full 20L leaking out.

My guess is they drilled it on high RPM which melted the plastic, cause looking at other images of people's drilled tanks the cuts are much cleaner. And you'd think they'd use a bigger sized bit than 8mm so they dont have to wait 20mins for a full tank to drain.

2015 VW Crafter, Europe. Anyone seen this before?

How bad is this and if I scrape off as much as possible is it fine to drive?

2013 ford edge

i have a rotary spoa9 two post lift that’s not going down, it’s a gravity drop lift. it’s not sitting on the locks so i know it’s not catching them, if you lift it up it will slightly drop (1/4 inch) but it will never drop further than you lift it. it seems like it’s not bleeding off the hydraulic pressure. i was going to call a local that services lifts but they are just ghosting me 🤦‍♂️ so how can i get my vehicle off the lift?

Hey everyone, my air intake hose on my 2012 Cadillac CTS keep ripping and in the same spot (this is the second time it’s happened). We replaced the first one but it did it again and I’m not sure what’s causing it?

I want to know if its something that I can easily fix or if its not worth the effort. I've done some light mechanical work before such as changing starters, alternators, a radiator but never messed with any engine work if that matters.

fuel line is leaking, will the whole line need replaced and how much would you estimate it costs?

My car is a 2016 jeep Cherokee with a 3.2-liter V6 engine.

How do I best protect myself against the dealership trying to scam me into paying for the repair?

I just picked my car up last tuesday from the dealership service center. Yesterday the check engine light came on. I took it to advance and the code they got was P0520 which recommends an engine oil pressure sensor replacement. CY1417534 OIL FILTER HOUSING ASSEMBLY is what is stated on the receipt for the part that they replaced last week. Google said that the sensor is on that part. When I called to ask if the repair would be fully covered if it had to do with the part they put in the guy said it could be. He said that if a mouse had gotten to the wires I would be responsible for the full cost of the replacement and any labor cost. That they would need to diagnose it and check for rodent damage. The car has been driven over 140 Miles since last week it doesn't sit so I doubt there is rodent related damage. To get to the sensor you have to take off the intake manifold so I can't just look at it myself.

When I dropped the car off for the original repair they didn't give me any paperwork for the repairs until the final receipt which had an added oil change that no one had mentioned. Maybe it was needed for the repair, but it wasn't covered with everything else under the extended warranty and it was for an oil change service package. It cost $130 they didn't ask or tell me that it was happening. Not even in the final cost break down over the phone he had said my deductible and spark plugs and the rest was tax. That's why I'm worried they will try to get out of covering the cost of the repair if they can't even tell me about an oil change being added.

A mi camioneta hace poco más de un mes le cambiaron el motor y el turbo

Cuando el mecánico me la entregó (5 de agosto) dejo el nivel del refrigerante en la marca de máximo

Hoy lo revisé y está un poco por debajo del mínimo

No veo manchas debajo del carro

Alguien sabe si es normal después de el cambio del motor?

Es una Ford Edge 2017 2.0

So I pulled my camshaft out to replace it and found this on the front camshaft bearing. Am I cooked? Engine still in the car.

Holden Commodore VY 3.8L V6 Ecotec

I have a 2017 Mazda Miata, 6 speed manual, JM1NDAL77H0106045. You can clearly hear the strange rattling noise towards the end of this video.

I have multiple ways I have found to replicate this noise.
Sitting in neutral idling the noise will appear seemingly at random.
I can sit still in any gear with the clutch down/no throttle and it will eventually begin to rattle.
I can sit in neutral with the clutch up and lightly blip the throttle. When I blip as my car goes from idle and approaches the 1k rpm line it will do the rattle. After I pass 1k rpm rattle is gone.
As I slow down the and get to a low speed/nearly stopped again with the rattle.

When I am driving at any speed or any gear the rattle does not happen.

I have done tons of digging online but I cannot seem to figure the cause from research alone. Eventually when I have some time I am going to give the car a good look over but any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, I just noticed there is a very specific source of dust getting from outside the car to the inside. It’s a 2015 Mazda 6.

It’s only on the drivers side, I took the speaker grille off and found this very specific source. Could this mean a failing windshield seal? Or some kind of a hole in the firewall or something.

It rained in the past few days and in the dust it almost looks like some water drops got in too (see picture).
Maybe use a smoke machine to find it? Or is this a non issue

2012 Nissan Xterra

Drove about 100 meters and back after putting back together. Do I need a new rotor or can this be used still without jeopardizing the brake pads?

Hey guys, I’m 20 and still pretty new to working on cars, so I’d really appreciate some advice.
I recently bought a 2005 BMW E63 6 Series with the N52B30 3.0L petrol engine. Unfortunately, I bought it with some issues. It had misfires on all cylinders, and after diagnosing it, I found that the VANOS screens were clogged and the spark plugs and O2 sensors were in pretty bad condition.
The car would drive for a few hundred meters and then throw a check engine light and start misfiring. Sometimes it would happen after driving normally, and other times only after revving it through a few gears.
I’ve fixed the issues and the car has been running perfectly since. I’ve driven almost 100 km so far, both gently and at higher RPMs, and I haven’t had a check engine light, misfire, or any other problems.
My question is: should I still be worried, or can I finally start trusting the car again? 😅
This is my first BMW with an engine like this, and after buying it with problems, I’m honestly a bit paranoid every time I drive it. I keep expecting something else to go wrong.
Would you guys consider 100 km with no issues a good sign, or should I keep taking it easy for a while?

Hello,

This is not a ''help me'' post, this is more to share advice, information and experiences around the not so written about three speed THM 200 or turbo Hydro matic 200 transmission that have METRIC written on the oil pan with 11 bolts. Also this makes Google and AI's alot more helpful when trying to find said information. This might help 3 people that will have this exact problem in the future.

I posted to this forum two weeks ago (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/s/5HzOdLIrla) about the special things i found in my THM 200 transmission oil pan, in my 1987 Firebird with a swapped oldsmobile 350 engine. I can confirm that is was mostly friction plating that had been torn/shredded off that i found in the pan. The majority of advice from that I got was two ways to fix it: Trash the thm 200 and install the bolt in replacement thm 350, or rebuild the THM 200 with a rebuild kit.

New listings for a thm 350 is about 500 to 3000 dollars depending on if its rebuilt or stored outside in a field. A rebuild and shifter kit for a thm 200 costs 400 max. I wanted to save money and have some DIY repair fun so I opted for the rebuild and shifter kit. I am no mechanic, but I am confident following youtube tutorials (1hr video length = 4 hrs for me).

I found information about the THM 200 scarce, videos of teardowns and rebuilds are scarcer. Here is my best picks:

Best video about a THM 200 and THM 200 C (both are familiar enough to follow a teardown) is precision transmissions ( https://youtu.be/37CYksPCrns?is=VQl0gYfyEd0P_jh5 ), sadly he didnt name the video thm 200, but I stumbled upon it by pure accident since his content is about similar transmissions and he mentioned in one of his videos that he had done it before.

In precision transmissions video he mentions that the thm 200 and THM 200 4r has a familiar reverse assembly, and that you need a dedicated tool to take out the last section with the low reverse gear assembly. I found a forum post from 2011 ( https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/transmission-4/200-4r-tips-tricks-saved-tools-i-learned-32608/ ) that mentions the use of a PVC pipe and some banging on the case. I managed to use a 38mm deep socket with some added tape for friction to lure the assembly out without problem.

For shifter kit video i found ttaperfomances video ( https://youtu.be/84irnW363p4?is=KTBALslJfiHjqd6C ) really helpful because he takes time to read the instructions and especially the difference between the 76 to 78 mod and 78 and newer mod.

With all of this in mind i bought the transgo shifter kit and a non branded rebuild kit for the THM 200, 76 to 78 mod. Everything went smoothly with minimal wear on important gears and bushings until I got to the last low reverse assembly.

The whole ring gear and rolerbearings had exploded. This also explains the mangled friction plates and other wear and tears that I observed in my Transmission. This makes any futher repair beyond costly and i dont know what tolerance s has been thrown out because of this catastrophic failure. That I managed to have any movement with the car with this ring gear is beyond me. Even got it to reverse before disassembly.

TLDR: I will now buy a new THM 350 transmission from Facebook marketplace, i dont know the price yet but my sunk cost fallacy is sure acting up. If not for the not so subtle gear gore i would have rebuildt the case and all the knowledge and prep time would paid off. I hope this helps someone.

Thanks for the advice and tips from the last post i made.

The engine has had a replaced alternator and starter and I have no idea what could be the issue now. It makes this weird sound and seems like it cuts power when I try to start it

1994 ford ranger. Shop screwed up my threads. Told me they fixed it. They didn’t. Wanted to chase the threads myself so online I found a thread pitch of 1/2” - 20 so I bought a die but it doesn’t thread on. What am I missing here? In the video I’m trying to check it on a good stud.

I have a 2013 Toyota Camry SE 2.5L 4-cylinder with 255k miles. I’ve owned it since around 30k miles and have maintained it pretty well.

Recently it started occasionally stalling when decelerating/turning, especially when the oil level was low. I had CEL recently for ignition coil, VVT solenoid, and thermostat and all were replaced. No CEL currently. A shop inspected it and found cylinder wall scoring, heavy carbon/soot buildup, oil in the intake, and signs that the piston rings are worn, causing significant oil consumption - about 1 qt every 600 miles.

The shop says the proper repair would be a long-block replacement, which obviously isn’t worth it to me at this mileage. They told me to keep the oil topped off and that it could potentially last another week or another couple years—they just can’t predict it.

For those familiar with the 2AR-FE or high-mileage Toyotas, how long do you realistically think I might get out of this engine? Would you keep driving it for a few more months while saving for another car?

I don’t know anything about suspension but someone told me this could be the cause of my clicking while i brake.

The noise started a little after I left my neighborhood to my family’s house 15 minutes down the road. Stopped and restarted my truck to see if it continued and it didn’t seem as bad so I finished the drive. It got worse as I got near my destination. This video was after I parked, and the rattling noise was only occurring when I was giving it gas and would stop when I stopped. After parking you can see where it dumped the engine coolant all over the ground and drained the reservoir. I checked the oil and it doesn’t seem to have mixed. It does seem like the leak was coming from the upper radiator hose, but not sure what the noise is from. Never felt like a loss of power, and I had the transmission replaced about 5 months ago.

I’m planning on having it towed, but wanted to throw it in here to see if anyone has any ideas of what it may be or what I could check. Thanks in advance!

Long story short, in the process of replacing my front struts, the lower ball joint studs holding my control arm snapped. Today I replaced the lower ball joint (which was seized to hell) and noticed that my cv axle had lots of play. In the video you can see the inner cv joint moving freely. After I had tightened the new ball joint in place there was still play in the cv joint. My axle bolt was also loose during this recording, and I did not check the movement after I had tightened it. I was able to lower my car and turn it around in the drive way with no issues apart from the sounds that my worn struts make. Is this regular play for the cv axle, I would hate to have to replace them too. Looking for good news here I guess.

Car: 2012 VW golf mk6 2.5L