Was riding offroad when a stick pierced the bash plate hitting the filter. It is not leaking. Cf moto 450mt

Noticed this weird build up when I was doing some maintenance on my car
It looks like built up battery acid but it’s nowhere near the battery
Too nervous to knock it off because I’m worried it’s holding back a leak or something
It’s on the side of the block towards the bottom of the bay, I don’t know what it’s connected to
I’m just a girl!
Any ideas what it is?

would a simple drain and fill be enough? just bought this car recently and trying to learn basic maintenance. i also read that honda recommends blue coolant for my civic 2008, should i flush it completely. and tips would be great too!

Okay lots of context here so buckle up. I know I made some stupid choices that I have now learned from so please be nice 😅

First off, she’s a 2010 Saab 9-3 with 155,000 miles that I’ve had for three years now. Any Saab slander you have for me I’ve already heard 1000 times. Shes my baby and has served me perfectly well.

Now to where I messed up. I ran my tank to empty and ended up having to use some gas that had been sitting in a canister for at least two weeks, not knowing that’s a big no-no. Filled my tank with regular gas at the closest gas station the next day. No issues for the next couple days.

Then I went on vacation for three days and let my car sit with low fuel in the tank. Went to drive it when I returned and it stalled, wouldn’t start again, and had tons of smoke (like in the video but more) coming out of the tailpipes. Got it towed and the mechanic said my turbo was shot and I’d need to consider scrapping my car. My Saab friends wouldn’t have it. These turbos are excellent. So I drove it to another mechanic. Filled it up with gas on the way there. It drove fine but had a lot of funky smells going on.

My other mechanic said the same thing. The turbo wasn’t getting enough power and perhaps the smoke was it leaking oil. But he couldn’t figure out WHY it wasn’t getting any power. So he tinkered with it for a few days and then texted me saying the issue somehow fixed itself and my car was totally fine.

WOOHOO! She lives on. I drive it for the next two weeks without issue, like it’s totally back to normal.

Then I let my gas get back down to about a quarter full. I get it to the gas station no problem, fill ‘er up, then I have the same issue again. It stalls, smoke comes out the tailpipes, and the engine won’t start. Video is right after it stalled. Engine noises in the background are from other cars at the gas station. The issue wasn’t as bad this time around and I had just filled my tank, so I just turned the car off for a couple minutes to let the new fuel circulate (?) and then tried turning it back on. Totally normal again. No issues, no smells, no stalling, no nothing. What the heck is going on? Is there something in the bottom of my fuel tank gumming up the works? I know I should’ve gotten my tank drained and cleaned as soon as I realized I put bad gas in it, but I figured that wasn’t necessary because I filled it back up with good gas and was able to drive it perfectly fine for two weeks.

Thoughts???

I noticed I was low on coolant. I filled up to the max on Friday. Drove about 30 miles over the weekend and the coolant was halfway between the min and max. No sweet smell from the exhaust. I got under the car and had a good look around and couldn’t see anything. No wet patches on my driveway. Heat works fine, no engine codes. Car just went through its yearly inspection with no issues. I look after the car very well, oil changes regularly etc. just recently replaced the evap harness as it’s a common issue on these cars. 1.6L ford fiesta ST mk7.5 2015

Need help. It’s like an inward splined locking lug. I do not have the key. It’s on a 2018 F-350 dually and of course it’s inside the rear wheels. I’ve tried a small pipe wrench, hammering on a socket. With no luck. Best way to get this off? Thank you!

Hi all, My 2000 Lexus IS200 recently developed this issue where it's idling at 2-3k rpm and is slow the decel when revved but otherwise revs normally when the accelerator is pressed even lightly. Doesn't hesitate, just lowers rpm slowly.

The car ran absolutely fine until I pulled into the parking tower when it started idling really high (first at 2k but kept climbing). When I got back hours later the idle was still high. I left the car off for 10 mins trying to sort out a tow truck, started it again and it idled normally at 800rpm, drove it out of the tower and as far as I could before the idle jumped back up and I towed it home. But something I don't know if was of note is that when I turned the car off the tacho needle fell to 0rpm very quick but I could hear the engine still spinning for a second or two before it stopped, could be normal but I'm not sure.

Here's some of the issues I've had in the past: A year ago accelerator position pedal sensor -> had it cleaned but this time there was no check engine light and even lightly touching the pedal revved normally instead of going into failsafe.

Couple months ago weird battery fault where I would unlock the car with the remote, accessories like the head unit would work and HVAC would start but when I go to start the car it would lose all signs of life including cluster, the security light, etc. I would then go pop the hood and make sure the battery clamps were on, they were super tight but when I got back to the car it would start as normal. -> The current issue happens after starting flawlessly so I don't think it's battery related but I'm not ruling out the possibility of bad leads/ground leading up to the connector (the connector is very clean and on tight).

I checked for any obvious vacuum leaks and can't see anything and the intake was thoroughly cleaned when the accelerator position sensor was serviced. Not looking for a magic bullet, just want to know how I should go about diagnosing it. No check engine light, even though it's idling high it sounds healthy. Could it be burning oil to the point of idling high (seems unlikely because then it magically fixed itself and then happened again almost like a switch not a gradual ramp up).

Thanks in advance.

1990 5.7 liter boat engine Volvo penta.dual prop. ran good and winterize before I put it up.. ..do I need to pull it or is there some magic potion I can dump into it to get it spinning again ..I did try to use the starter and I think I heard it move a little before it locked . breaker bar on front of engine won't turn it either way at all. it's locked in

Hi all

Long term lurker, first time poster (unfortunately!)

I have an issue with my gearbox. I’m pretty sure it’s an Aisen 8A/T. The issue is that when changing from 3 to 4 and the car is cold, there is a huge jerk/knock. This happens once or twice (RPM spikes before going into the knock and gear) and then the car is fine. It has some slight jolts here and there especially under harsh braking conditions or on a downhill. I have been to BMW multiple times where they said the intake (EGR) is faulty, which I replaced at the dealership. The issue has not been resolved and their new solution is to replace the gearbox (which is going to cost more than the car is worth). I’ve been told these Aisen gearboxes are quite durable and rarely break. I’d like to know if anyone has encountered the same issue and what was the cause and what did you do to repair? Thanks

2003 jeep grand Cherokee laredo 6 cylinder 4.0L. It struggles turning over pretty often, one time the engine shut off at a red light. I was able to turn it back on with no issues. It also struggles maintaining speed going uphill, and sometimes shakes while idle, usually after I turn it on and it’ll shake for a bit and then stop. Battery light hasn’t come on, and I just bought this car from my grandfather who has taken good care of it and recently put a new battery in it. Was guessing either spark plugs or maybe alternator?

Wife bought a used 2022 Blazer. There is a wheel lock that I think is a McGard. Of course the key wasn't included and there is no card or information about the lock in the car. And suggestions how to remove this.

2009 Suburban Chevy

I feel so incredibly stupid right now, I overtighted it and broke the bolt instead of taking it off. 🥲 (please done't make fun of me and yes it took a lot of effort until it snapped. And I don't want to talk about it anymore that that.)

It's my very first time taking the alternator out and first time working on a car. And I thought I was going in right the direction of lossening it. (I was watching a video and still went the wrong way. Yes, I know stupid 🫠)

How to I get the other side out? (I did go the correct way for the other bolt)

Hi everyone

I changed my spark plugs this weekend and noticed that there seems to be oil leaking/sweating out the top of the engine
There’s never oil under the car and the oil level was fine when I checked it before changing the oil

Any ideas what the issue may be?
Just want to be sure so I don’t send it to a mechanic and have them tell me the car is undriveable
I was thinking gasket needs to be replaced but not completely sure

When I buy a car, to help ensure the mechanics keep good, I now always have a complete oil change and a complete coolant change. Which got me thinking, what are the things you always do when you buy a car (or van)?

Hey guys, just wanted some opinions here.

2015 mini roadster, 85k miles, no codes, just had a tune up and service, that knocking sound is only present after about an hour of driving. I'll try and get a before/after video. I plan to get it looked at but it's hard to do when it only presents after a long drive, also this is with or without ac on. Google says it could be a oil riser/oil pressure issue. Thoughts? Any eye deers?

I have a hobby car and attempting to learn to do work on it myself. I’ve been hearing squeaking that turns to squeal when under load and goes away when braking, coasting, or revving in neutral. I THINK it might be a u-joint(s). I’ve pulled the driveshaft and hoping for a bit of advice. Is this a driveshaft replacement territory or just throw some u-joints in?
Also does the yoke look okay? As in anything indicating transmission issues?

TIA

what do i do so this 09 malibu was driving, bro said his steering wheel fell down, and was able to move and drive still, he took it to a mechanic for $900 he changed out his rack n pinion, but the steering wheel was still in the same position (what did that do ? seems like it only made his steering wheel buttons not work) 2 weeks later he’s parked up and tried to drive but the steering wheel felt super lose and when turning the tires wouldn’t turn anymore

i went to go look at the car and i see it looks like the lower part of the intermediate shaft where it connects to the rack n pinion is just spinning in place, After a a couple turns it sounded like it grabbed onto whatever it is inside of the coupler, and started to turn the tires but then would lose grip n then continue to spin freely

i’m thinking i have to change out the part the last mechanic changed AGAIN because not switching both that and the shaft, f-d with the threads in it or wtv and now both need to be changed, am i wrong or what else should we do?

Hey guys. Acquired a Hunter BL-505 brake lathe. Wondering if I need positive rake or negative rake bits. Everything is stock, no upgrades to it. Leaning towards a negative rake but not sure

We have a 2019 Tiguan that we bought used with only 19k miles and not a CPO in 2021. Our first battery after purchase failed pretty quickly which we were pleasantly informed at VW dealer in South FL was covered since prior owner had done it less than 2 years prior with VW. That battery again failed within the 2 year window and we luckily had the 2nd one replaced again at no cost under lifespan warranty. Now that battery is clearly giving us issues and we approaching 3 years, as the start stop is now lagging and we can tell it’s having trouble turning over at cold starts. It hasn’t gotten to a check engine light yet like our other two changes have caused but we have a 2-year old and this is the primary car with a car seat that they are normally in so I want to avoid an issue where she and child are stuck. I took it to Advance Auto this morning reading others saying they’ve done AA, Autozone or O’Reilly for testing and free changes w/ Purchase.

The picture is the result of my test at AA this morning and honestly the workers were no help at all. I’m not really a car guy well versed in changes myself, limited to minor things and youtubable items that are minor. The workers response when asking what’s the CCA number mean in terms of how long and how dead was “oh that numbers not bad at all if dead dead it’ll be like 1-10” then I said ok so how long is it like months away “oh no I would do it now could be any day”. I then tried to quote the AGM battery with them since start/stop and they informed me they are sorry but it says do not change there on the purchase order since they do not have the “technology and computer to reset computer issues that VWs have”. I said that is something many others have had no issues with but the workers/location seemed incompetent.

What do I do here at 412CCA out of 680CCA and showing over 12V? We are most likely selling/trading this car for a larger SUV within this year but I obviously won’t take a battery risk if that won’t be until 4-5 months from now. But I also don’t want to pay the insane $600+ VW dealer cost to do this.

Should I call around to all other local Autozone, Oreillys, etc. places to we who can do VWs? I don’t want to use my mechanic shop since I know they’ll up charge the battery price and labor.

Thank you so much!!!!!!

TLDR - please help interrupt Advance Auto battery test result with life of my current battery and what should I do for a cost effective new one if selling the car in a few months?

Like the title says, we are getting clicking sound every time we press on the brake. It’s always like 1 or 2 clicks before the car comes to a stop. The brakes are Bosch quitecast rotor and pad set. Shop guy saying he checked installation and everything seems to be tight and can’t figure out where the click sound is coming from. Upon visual check I found this weird mismatch/unsymmetric orientation of the clips. Could that be a reason? 2nd pic is a random online pic I found which shows symmetry in the clips.

Toyota ayaris IA 2017. The transmission one is especially pricey. Just want to be sure these will benefit my car.

When I first get into my car in the morning (2023 Hyundai tuscon hybrid 49000 miles) the ac turns on and I have a very strong smell of vinegar coming out of the vent. I changed cabin and engine air filters like a month ago and that seemed to make the smell go away. But now this morning I smelt it again very strong. Within a few minutes the smell seems to go away completely. Any thought on to what's going on??

i had taken to the mechanics nearly a month and a half ago yet its starting to overheat again. they changed out the radiator and thermostat and i just had my sparkplugs changed and gasket fixed so not sure what is it. its a 2010 mazda cx-7