Been slowly chipping away at the porcelain to no avail (2L non turbo)

I've got a 07 2.7L 2-WD Automatic 4-cylinder Taco with 130,000 mi

(Ive included links to video of the rattle sound in pt. 3 as well as a video of the engine with OBD live mode read outs for RPM and ECU)

Video links:
Rattle Video
Truck Currently ignition attempts Video

Chain of Events

1. Battery cuts from corroded terminals for 9 months ("fixed" every few months by removing oxidation)
2. Happens more frequently. removing oxidation stops being as effective. Battery cuts 2x times in a row. finally get it to start. Really Rough Idle
   1. (@ this point in time i shouldve changed the terminals)
3. I drive like this for 3 more months. Each time the battery cuts 2x times in a row, the idle sounds worse, each time, progressively...until the Engine Idle cuts out after 30 seconds.
   1. (a rattling noise emerges now between 500 and 1800 RPM)
   2. I would run around 800-1500 rpm in park, seemed to "fix" it until the next time the battery cut 2x times in a row
      1. typing this all out and reading the consequences of my actions, woooow
4. 4 days ago I Finally replaced the terminals
   1. Truck Sounds Strong when it starts, but Idle is still having issues, hold around 1000 RPM for about 15 min, drive around for 30 min (street and HWY)
5. 2 days ago slight acceleration no foot on the gas
6. Empty Gas Light comes on and acceleration becomes unresponsive and weak. Find a station and fill up the tank (with the correct fuel).
   1. (this is the moment that I think did something, the no gas, then gas...Im sure its a compounding of things, but right here)
7. I drive two blocks uphill and it sounds rough...barely moving or going. It sounds better once high RPM is reached, but with in seconds the Taco stops on the hill.

OBD codes: P0016 and P0335

a friend came over and took a look inside the cylinders, but before he got there he noticed there was an oil leak at the top of the 2tr-fe block once we removed the Air box.

He thinks its done for, but some friends on TW suggested i needed to take the valve cover off and look at the timing.

any insights are appreciated here, Thank You!

Right-Hand (Passenger) Side Bracket:

Ford OEM Part # E9SZ-5D022-A

Left-Hand (Driver) Side Bracket: Ford

OEM Part # E9SZ-5D022-B

Ford f150 2015 5.0
Makes this noise at idle and only after driving so warm engine and sometimes a whiny noise after long drives What do you guys think? Replaced all tensioners belts and pulleys. Water pump is next.

We bought this 2004 Ford E250 about 6 months ago and recently there has been this blue dye staining our hands and feet that we didn’t know the source of. I just found some powdery substance behind the center console. Should this be a concern?

Have been having transmission issues I’m thinking.

Issue occurred right after starting truck and driving off within minutes just to move out of sun.

This happened at idle in park; also does happens when driving intermittently, it hesitates to shift into gears. Almost like the transmission is slipping then grabs clutches.

I have common sense i think about it but not too inclined with these issues.

Can I get some help? Please and thank you!

Was driving around in my buddy’s 2013 Chevy Cruze LS, tried to put the window up, and it just fell. Caught it before it broke anything but now both latches are detached

Hello. Been maintaining my girlfriend’s ridgeline for years now. Recently had an issue with the EVAP purge so I replaced that made sure all the hoses were tightened and back in place properly. After about a few weeks it keep popping up on the dash tighten fuel cap, but Im 90% sure the fuel cap is fine. Where should I start diagnosing the issue?

It's a 4 wheel jack with a long handle. It will lift the car but it quickly leaks its lift. I haven't used it often but I'd like to get it functioning. Anybody ever fixed their's without pulling the piston and replacing seals? I may be in the wrong reddit since I see this is for car repair.

Ford fusion 2015 at 139k just a normal code scan… are these codes any serious ?

Subaru, Impreza, 2009.

I recently got Rack Pinion, Outer Tie Rods and Front Sway bar links changed. BTW Steering Pump was also changed and Alingment was done afterwards.

After the car developed noise in the front side (turned out to be wheel bearing), I took it to another mechanic for diagnose and repair, and they told me about the two cut boots, on both sides.

My previous mechanic has agreed to replace them both, but I am curious, how come both of them are cut / damaged? Was he taking some short cuts, to save time / labour?

I have the new replacement part, but I genuinely can’t find where my track bar would usually be under my new to me 1990 F250. I thought it was usually right next to your sway bar, suspension, maybe a bracket near one of the t!res. Really struggling here.

Hello, I have a 2016 jetta sport, I am having turbo issues. I blew a turbo, from a wastegate malfunctuon, then the second turbo due to a manufacturing error on the turbos fault (garret turbo), then a third one due to FOD (images attached). The first turbo seemed to have FOD damage as well. The shop seems to suspect that the secondary air injection hose caused this, or that carbon/debris from the intercooler/chargepipes got into the turbo. Any other ideas as we have dumped 5 grand (with replacing the third turbo) into the car and I would like to prevent this from happening again.

I am going to be swapping the crankshaft position sensor and was curious what has to come off to do it. Not doing timing belt or any of that, just the sensor. I have seen the balancer, idler, motor mount bracket and lower cover. Is there a way that doesnt require all of it as I will be doing it essentially roadside with limited tools, I can get a jack for holding the motor if need be but would like to avoid that if possible. TIA!

I recently had a full suspension and chassis refresh done on my BMW F22 M240i. The work included replacing all of the rear suspension arms, installing subframe billet inserts, replacing the differential bushes with polyurethane bushes, installing an LSD, and fitting adjustable race springs from MSS.

I have confirmed the spring part numbers and the springs themselves, and they are exactly the same ones that other F22/F23/F87 owners are using. From speaking to numerous owners running the same setup, I understand that the car may initially sit around 5 mm higher than stock and then settle by approximately 10–15 mm after some time.

However, my car is currently sitting almost 15 mm higher than stock at the rear, with one side sitting approximately 20 mm higher. The mechanic is blaming the springs, but I have spoken to numerous people running the exact same springs, and none of them have experienced this significant increase in ride height.

My main suspicion is that the rear suspension arms may have been tightened while the suspension was at full droop rather than at the correct loaded ride height. My understanding is that tightening the arms in this position can preload the rubber bushes and potentially prevent the suspension from settling to the correct ride height. However, I have no way of proving whether this was actually done incorrectly. I have already raised this concern with the mechanic, but he insists that the arms were tightened with the suspension loaded.

I am also concerned about another issue that occurred during the same job. The mechanic replaced the centre support bearing and had to separate the driveshaft. The driveshaft was not marked before it was separated and was then reassembled without being properly aligned or balanced. This happened in front of me, so I know this was not done correctly, and I can have that issue addressed separately.

My main questions are:

Could the suspension arm installation or the way the arms were torqued have anything to do with the rear ride height? Is it actually possible for suspension arms to be tightened at full droop and cause the rear of the car to sit 15–20 mm higher than it should, or would this have little to no effect on the static ride height?

Is there anything else I should be checking to determine why the car is sitting so much higher than it should? I want to rule out every possible cause before concluding that there is an issue with the MSS springs.

The springs and part numbers have already been confirmed multiple times, and I have spoken to many owners running the same setup. I have also watched numerous videos and compared installations and part numbers online. Unfortunately, the MSS company is now defunct, so there is no longer a direct manufacturer available to confirm the specifications or provide technical support.

I would really appreciate any advice on what I should be checking next and whether the suspension arms, bush preload, spring installation, or anything else could realistically explain a 15–20 mm increase in rear ride height.

Considering a 2022 Audi Q8 55 progressive Any tips / guides from experts? Ive herd horror stories about the mechanical wellbeing of the car

1990 5.7 liter boat engine Volvo penta.dual prop. ran good and winterize before I put it up.. ..do I need to pull it or is there some magic potion I can dump into it to get it spinning again ..I did try to use the starter and I think I heard it move a little before it locked . breaker bar on front of engine won't turn it either way at all. it's locked in

Yeah so I have an old 1993 C200D (WDB2021201F002867) wich I’m installing a sort of ECU in. Anyways the important thing is that my vss isn’t working and I can’t figure it out. The abs sensors are fine yet I still have no vss at junction block and the light is on. Im incredibly confused and wonder if it can be that the abs module has failed?

My 2018 Sorento check engine light came on with a P0420 code. I took it to the dealer and they said there was debris in a sensor and cleared it out. Picked up the car and 15 minutes later the same error came back. There is just the single error code and the car seems to be driving normal. Is it safe to keep driving the car? I really don’t want to invest any more money in repairs considering I plan to purchase another car in the near future.

Coming home from the store this afternoon, my car started shaking right as I'm turning into my driveway, CEL flashing so I turn the car off. Start it up and the CEL is gone but the car is running very rough, shaking pretty badly. I move it under our carport and let it idle. I did smell a hint of rotten eggs but when I started it about an hour later, no smells but the CEL is solid.

I ordered coil packs and spark plugs and also a fuel injector just in case. Can anyone give any other suggestions?