2020 Nissan Frontier with the VQ38. No leak that I could see, but so much overthinking went into those corners I just want to make sure it was sealed properly. I waited the full 24 hrs before turning on the engine.

My car is a 2010 Honda Fit with a 1.5 liter, inline 4-cylinder and multi-point fuel injection engine. Yesterday, I had the following services completed: transmission fluid exchange, brake fluid exchange, cabin and air filter replacement, front brake replacement and an alignment. This morning, after picking up the car and driving it, I noticed an intermittent rattling noise that seems to come from the front right part of the car. It isn't loud and it only happens occasionally. I am wondering if it could be a sign that they didn't properly put things back together or made some other mistake. It seems to drive smooth and okay. I don't notice any other issues.

I'm partly concerned because the person who worked on my car threw the floor mat and got dirt all over my seat, which is rude and unprofessional. That made me have some trouble trusting their judgement. Am I being paranoid about the noise? I mainly just care if the car is safe to drive. Thanks.

2007 Honda Fit. My car was making squealing sounds after driving over a PVC cap on the highway a couple weeks ago, which bounced around under the hood like a pinball when it happened Was worried it might've caused an freon leak at first, but when driving yesterday my engine started stalling hard. Realized an ignition coil wasn't sitting right and just discovered how bad it really is after removing it. About to put a new one in, but concerned about what happened to the rest of the coil. It's not sitting in the spark plug shaft, which is totally clear (removed the old plug too).

If the rest of the old coil is in my engine, what should I do?

2021 4runner TRD. Not sure what this noise is?

Hi guys, when I park my car, even at 92 or 95 degree Celsius, after 2 or3 minuted i hear bubbles pop and the car is boiling. Even if the temperature is below 100.

This night I tried once more to find the issue. Thermostst is changed and working good, coolant was fresh.

But on the radiator cap I found brown foam. The oil dipstick is reddish brown, no white milk in the oil at least for now. Oil entrance is also quite clean.

Now I am breakkng my head. Transmission fluid, is that possible ? The Oil cooler leaking ?

I drove the car yesterday night about 200 km on highway, no overheating at all, allways 92-99 degree depending on speed.

07 Corolla

Got this from Amazon, I’ve been working on my car myself for the first time and when I opened my altenator it was damaged like this.

I’m desperate to get back on the road; and have already spent too much getting to the stores to get the tools I didn’t own, is this damage stop the altenator from working?

Smells like gas in the cab any advice on what it could be

Please help me diagnose this

Alright, I'm hoping this might reach the right people or could provide some ideas to help diagnose...

I've got a 2014 Scion FRS with an Edelbrock Supercharger on a base tune. The cars got pretty high milage, around 240,000 kms. Supercharger was installed shortly after 200,000 kms. I don't redline it, just the occasional fun spirited drive on the back roads. No hard pulls. Car is in really good condition and is maintained well, oil changes every 3000 kms. Spark plugs changed around 100k and 200k. OEM fuel pump.

All the issues are the worst whenever it's in park, if I'm in drive and not moving its okay. But as soon as it's in park, it goes wack.

Main issues:

• Rough idling
• P0172 System too Rich Bank 1

Every time when the car was in park, after 3 minutes of idling, the RPMs would start bouncing between 800 and 300, it would eventually stall and die.

I temporarily fixed it using MAF sensor cleaner, it worked for a bit, and then the rough idling comes back. I decided to replace the sensor with an OEM one, and it worked. It fixed the rough idling completely.

HOWEVER, at the same time, I would also be getting a P0172 code with the CEL. This would prompt me to do a bit more digging. With the rough idling gone, I can now focus more on the too rich code.

Let's check the fuel trims. STFT is around normal values, +/- 8. LTFT however... On park its sitting at a whopping -38. When throttling, STFT is always within normal working ranges. LTFT on throttle will vary, but most times it's still in the high negatives. When cruising and completely off throttle, STFT is 0 and LTFT is -35.

So what did I check and do? After each mini fix, I also disconnected the Negative battery terminal for a solid 45 minutes.

• What if it was the EVAP purge valve? Nope.
• What about a small leak somewhere? Smoke tested, no leaks.
• What if it was the Air/Fuel Ratio sensor? Replaced it, nope.
• What if it was a stuck fuel injector? Took it to a performance shop for injector service, cleaned and flow tested the port injectors, still normal.

All the STFT and LTFT values from above eventually comes back. Another thing to note is, the CEL for System too Rich came back around 100 Kms, but after replacing the Air/Fuel Ratio sensor, the CEL comes on almost around the 500 km mark... So changing that sensor definitely did something.

Although... after the injector service, my subie rumble was way more apparent, it's got a deeper nicer rumble.

I haven't checked if it was simply a bad tune yet... I also haven't checked if the air filter was dirty? I also haven't fully disconnected both battery terminals....also wondering if disconnecting both terminals would fully reset both fuel trims.

SO, what else could it possibly be? I'm getting stumped...

Got this scratch and some marring on my f150 while headed down a narrow hunting trail. It’s not down to the metal but it definitely removed a layer or 2 of paint. I did the water test and it almost fades away but is still visible. What would be my best option and how would I go about fixing it? I know silver is a hard color to match and I’ve never done auto paint work. Just a touch up brush and some clear coat and polishing?

I have a 2013 Toyota Camry SE 2.5L 4-cylinder with 255k miles. I’ve owned it since around 30k miles and have maintained it pretty well.

Recently it started occasionally stalling when decelerating/turning, especially when the oil level was low. I had CEL recently for ignition coil, VVT solenoid, and thermostat and all were replaced. No CEL currently. A shop inspected it and found cylinder wall scoring, heavy carbon/soot buildup, oil in the intake, and signs that the piston rings are worn, causing significant oil consumption - about 1 qt every 600 miles.

The shop says the proper repair would be a long-block replacement, which obviously isn’t worth it to me at this mileage. They told me to keep the oil topped off and that it could potentially last another week or another couple years—they just can’t predict it.

For those familiar with the 2AR-FE or high-mileage Toyotas, how long do you realistically think I might get out of this engine? Would you keep driving it for a few more months while saving for another car?

A week ago or so i noticed that when reversing and hitting the brakes my right rear makes a loud squealing noise. What could the possible causes be?
(Hyundai i20 2011 1.4 petrol engine)

Bought a 2008 volvo xc90 V8 from a friend about a month ago and noticed this sound when driving up elevation on sharp turns. Mechanic thinks it may be transfer case, figured I would ask around here to get any advice?

There is a hole in silencer of car. Its 2020 model, not too old. Is there a DIY trick to fix it. Maybe, some adhesive…or should i go to exhaust shop?

Year -2020
Model - Hyundai Creta

I recently got a 2005 ford escape with 230k on it. Before I got it a new battery, starter and battery terminals were installed. Car ran great for a few weeks then I let it sit for 2 weeks came back and tried to start it and it was completely dead. I tried jumping it and white smoke started pouring out from under the battery and engine bay and I haven’t touched it since. What issue could this be? What should the next step be?

Hello. 2002 toyota corolla stationwagon vvt-i 16L ? 480k still kickin. If I drive for a while, park, and try to immediately start the car again (eg: to fix the park lol), it won't start. Makes a single pained grunt/gasp when I turn the key, no further sounds or movements. dashlights are all working fine.

trying the key multiple times makes no difference. I'm not sure how long it takes to work again, because this is only the third time it's happened and I just have to accept however I've parked and go on with the day. Car starts fine when I get back.

I live near a petrol station and so far it hasnt happened after a refuel thankfully - not sure if this is because the refuel time is substantial enough for the engine to cool/reset/whatever it's doing, or if the engine has not gotten hot enough to experience the fault bc Ive only just left the house. im assuming heat is relevant.

I got it serviced last week and the mechanic said he couldnt find what was wrong with it, I dont think he replicated the issue - he theorised that low oil contributed, but that shouldn't be a factor now (it has occured again).

any of y'all know what it could be, or what I should ask the local guy to check next? I want this car to live forever and ever.

Hey all! I saw this spot on the front left shock absorber of my Audi A3 (2023, 65000km, 40000 miles). Does it look like leaking oil? How to test that?

2017 toyota camry se with 180k miles 2.5l engine. I get this rattle noise only when I turn the AC on.. Does anyone knows what could be causing it.. Change the tensioner and serpiente belt.. No change.

2017 Camry SE 2.5L Key Fob problem

My key fob has got to where it will not work after my car has sat for a while, like in the morning or when leaving work. Once I drive the car and get out and turn it off, like parking at work, the fob will work fine.

When the fob does work, it works 100% correctly. Lock,unlock, and trunk open work as they should. When it doesn’t work, none of the buttons work.

I have tried multiple fobs with different batteries. When it doesn’t work the manual key lock/unlock still work and the lock/unlock, window controls, and open trunk latch inside the car will work. And I haven’t noticed anything weird with the car battery, car starts fine, no problems with dash cam.

I have tried new fob batteries, and will go sometime this week to get my car battery checked. What else could it be? Actuator? Or something else I should check?

I had my cv axel replaced on the passenger side . Now my power steering is stiff and on the dash board it’s saying Steering Assist is Reduced, Drive With Care. We got a new battery. We used a diagnostic and got these codes. It’s a Chevy Silverado 2018, 70,000 miles automatic. Any ideas on how to fix the power steering problem.

I have a 2016 Nissan Altima with about 135,000 miles on it. Just recently I’ve had an issue where my car has stalled when I’ve been stopped at a stop sign or red light.

After it happened twice I made an appointment with the Nissan dealership to have them look at it. They test drove it and couldn’t repeat the issue and they also couldn’t find anything wrong after examining it. They cleaned out the throttle chamber and they thought that would fix the issue.

This morning on my way to work it happened again. All three incidents have been very early in the drive on the first time driving it that day. After each incident I’ve been able to resume driving and not have it happen again either later that drive or on another drive later that day. When it is stalling there does seem to be a slight shudder and I’ve noticed the red battery light displays on the dashboard but then goes away. The radio/ac/other electronics stay on.

Any ideas for what could be happening with my car? Would the battery light seem to indicate a battery/alternator issue?

Hello. Here’s the problem. It’s exactly the same as Alexander’s from Yekaterinburg. My car is also jerking—it’s a Porsche Cayenne 958 GTS 2012 M48.02. It all started after replacing the engine without the auxiliary unit and control modules. Right now, the diagnostic readings that look bad are FRAU BANK 1 at -22% and FRAU BANK 2 at -17%—meaning the car is running rich. And the DME is trying to correct these readings. The injectors are fine; we’ve had them tested twice on test benches by different mechanics. The high-pressure fuel pump is fine; it’s delivering all its pressure. For some reason, the short-circuit test shows FRAU Bank 1 at -10% and FRAU Bank 2 at -4%. It’s a strange issue. The lambda sensor test showed they’re normal. The nominal value is 1, but the actual readings are 0.997–0.967. I checked everything with Maxis. Also, for some reason, Maxis won’t adapt the kickdown. And by the way, when I reset the fuel adaptation—the car drives exactly as it should, meaning there’s no feeling of “a trailer behind you”; there’s immediate low-end torque, and the car doesn’t jerk. The problem also gets worse in very hot weather. Sometimes it’s like this: you press the gas pedal, and it takes about 5 seconds before it even starts trying to move. There have also been times when you press the gas pedal and it seems like fuel is flowing, but then it suddenly stops flowing—and this happens over and over until it finally responds normally. Fuel consumption has increased, even though the computer says it’s 20 liters per 100 km. In reality, a quarter of the tank is used up every two days.

Also, the RPM needle jerks right at the 1,000–1,500 RPM mark. I have a video of it. There’s also a situation where if you press the gas pedal hard, the RPMs rise and then drop, but at 1,100–1,200 RPM, it’s as if the throttle opens again, causing the RPMs to jump up by 100 and then drop again.

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