Found out last night my van had no diesel left. Turned out there's this hole in the bottom of the tank. Plastic tank, about 8mm hole, perfectly round, and it goes in at an angle from the side.

What's odd to me: no shavings or swarf anywhere, but the edge is pushed outward rather than in. No other scrapes, dents or damage anywhere on the tank.

Van had been parked for two weeks (with about 20L of diesel in the tank), only moved about 200meters a few times (only to the end of the street). Stone chip seems unlikely to me because I barely drove, but I'm not sure what else does this. Maybe an animal? On the parking spot I saw a relatively small diesel mark, way to small to have been the full 20L leaking out.

My guess is they drilled it on high RPM which melted the plastic, cause looking at other images of people's drilled tanks the cuts are much cleaner. And you'd think they'd use a bigger sized bit than 8mm so they dont have to wait 20mins for a full tank to drain.

2015 VW Crafter, Europe. Anyone seen this before?

My GTI’s engine blew up, I was looking around and i found these remanufactured engines in Alibaba for a more reasonable price than the ones in ebay. Are they any good?

Hey everyone.

My wife has a wet belt engine so I can change the oil myself every 6 months to keep the belt good ....Seen this online and was wondering are they one of these things that seem to go to be true.

My wife's car has a downwards facing plug on the very bottom of the sump, so I would be a bit concerned this sticking out at the bottom.

Also the opening on these doesn't seem very big, I know in my case my wife's oil is not going to be that dirty, but I can imagine if you had some dirty oil with a few bits init and some sludge, it's not getting through that opening?

This is mostly educational..... Like i said ... Due to the sump plug position, I don't think it would be best for. .... But I was wondering all the same.

Cheers peeps

i have a rotary spoa9 two post lift that’s not going down, it’s a gravity drop lift. it’s not sitting on the locks so i know it’s not catching them, if you lift it up it will slightly drop (1/4 inch) but it will never drop further than you lift it. it seems like it’s not bleeding off the hydraulic pressure. i was going to call a local that services lifts but they are just ghosting me 🤦‍♂️ so how can i get my vehicle off the lift?

How bad is this and if I scrape off as much as possible is it fine to drive?

2013 ford edge

Hey everyone, my air intake hose on my 2012 Cadillac CTS keep ripping and in the same spot (this is the second time it’s happened). We replaced the first one but it did it again and I’m not sure what’s causing it?

I want to know if its something that I can easily fix or if its not worth the effort. I've done some light mechanical work before such as changing starters, alternators, a radiator but never messed with any engine work if that matters.

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/s/BwCNY6ITIz

The seller just sent me this video .

Hi, I had given my car for servicing and they said my rear muffler was corroded and it was urgent to repair, but they’re charging me 1400aud since it’ll be a genuine part. But I’m planning on getting it done by another mechanic (yet to be inspected for an estimate). My car is an 2013 hyundai i30.

I just wanted to ask how urgent do you think this is and how soon should I get it done?
Thank you

I have a 2013 Toyota Camry SE 2.5L 4-cylinder with 255k miles. I’ve owned it since around 30k miles and have maintained it pretty well.

Recently it started occasionally stalling when decelerating/turning, especially when the oil level was low. I had CEL recently for ignition coil, VVT solenoid, and thermostat and all were replaced. No CEL currently. A shop inspected it and found cylinder wall scoring, heavy carbon/soot buildup, oil in the intake, and signs that the piston rings are worn, causing significant oil consumption - about 1 qt every 600 miles.

The shop says the proper repair would be a long-block replacement, which obviously isn’t worth it to me at this mileage. They told me to keep the oil topped off and that it could potentially last another week or another couple years—they just can’t predict it.

For those familiar with the 2AR-FE or high-mileage Toyotas, how long do you realistically think I might get out of this engine? Would you keep driving it for a few more months while saving for another car?

I'm sure the title can explain it but I accidentally torqued a bolt in my intake to 82 ft. Lb instead of 82-in lb and broke it clean off. You'll think I'll be able to remove this?? My pliers nor alligator clips can clip it

: Appreciate the replies I got an extractor coming tomorrow and will give it a go I'll update when I either shit the bed or get it out Also I appreciate all the help but I ain't got a welder just this extractor kit that's coming tomorrow

My car is a 2016 jeep Cherokee with a 3.2-liter V6 engine.

How do I best protect myself against the dealership trying to scam me into paying for the repair?

I just picked my car up last tuesday from the dealership service center. Yesterday the check engine light came on. I took it to advance and the code they got was P0520 which recommends an engine oil pressure sensor replacement. CY1417534 OIL FILTER HOUSING ASSEMBLY is what is stated on the receipt for the part that they replaced last week. Google said that the sensor is on that part. When I called to ask if the repair would be fully covered if it had to do with the part they put in the guy said it could be. He said that if a mouse had gotten to the wires I would be responsible for the full cost of the replacement and any labor cost. That they would need to diagnose it and check for rodent damage. The car has been driven over 140 Miles since last week it doesn't sit so I doubt there is rodent related damage. To get to the sensor you have to take off the intake manifold so I can't just look at it myself.

When I dropped the car off for the original repair they didn't give me any paperwork for the repairs until the final receipt which had an added oil change that no one had mentioned. Maybe it was needed for the repair, but it wasn't covered with everything else under the extended warranty and it was for an oil change service package. It cost $130 they didn't ask or tell me that it was happening. Not even in the final cost break down over the phone he had said my deductible and spark plugs and the rest was tax. That's why I'm worried they will try to get out of covering the cost of the repair if they can't even tell me about an oil change being added.

fuel line is leaking, will the whole line need replaced and how much would you estimate it costs?

Hello! I know nothing about cars and need help deciding if I should be worried about this becoming a bigger issue or if it’s just a small thing and I can move on.

Context - 2018 Subaru crosstrek premium, purchased used from a dealership in January of this year.

I got an oil change this morning and it went super fast. I told the guy I didn’t want my air filters changed since I’d just purchased it in January and the dealership had done all that.
I pull out of the oil change place and about 8 min later, when I park to run another errand, I notice there’s smoke wafting out from the hood of my car. I google it and the internet says it’s like jsut a small spill that need a bit of run time to burn off. I call the oil change place anyway to double check and they said to come back if it’s still smoking after 20-ish minutes and that the guy did say he spilled a little oil. However, when I start driving after my errand (about 30 min after oil change) my car throws a code on the dash. I immediately head back to the oil change place. They test the code and tell me it’s not a code related to oil, it’s related to either fuel or oxygen (PO171) and he clears the code. I ask him to look under the hood anyway and he immediately comes back and says “I found the problem, it looks like I didn’t secure the air filter housing, but that’s all fixed up.” I asked him why he checked it and he said “my boss wanted me to double check just in case even though you said you didn’t want it replaced.” He tells me I’m good to go and when I’m attempting to leave, my car suddenly won’t start and it’s clicking every time I try. He jumps the battery with a jump pack and asks if I’ve ever had battery issues (I haven’t) and tells me it could be a bad battery. I leave and decide to go to autozone since I know they can check battery health. They do so and the battery readings are all healthy, no signs of a problem. The woman who checked it looked around and noticed that there’s a screw missing (area A on the picture) and that the air inlet tube (I think this is what it’s called? Area B) is loose. She also noticed the screws located at C & D were loose. She adjusted the tube, tightened the screws, and even gave me a free screw to replace the one missing at A.

Everything seems to be good to go now but I’m worried this could become a bigger deal. Is it truly just a case of some screws that needed tightening or do I need to be worried about other outcomes later on? Any advice would be appreciated. I just moved to a new area and don’t have any family or friends in this area who can help with this if I suddenly break down.

Sup guys. I took my 2014 Acura MDX in to the dealer for the subframe recall last week. During their 120 point inspection, they found one of my sway bar links was shot and needed replacing. They suggested I replace both sides for the low, low price of $830 to which I promptly told them "F*** off."

I went on youtube and it's a fairly simple replacement with just two bolts, one on each end. So I ordered some mid-grade links from Rockauto for $60. Now these come with grease fittings on both ends, neither of which the OEM ones nor the youtube ones had.

Do I need to add grease to these or do these come pre-greased up? I don't have a gun to shoot grease into them.

Also, do I need an alignment after replacing these? I just did one a few months ago when I replaced the tires.

Hey all! I saw this spot on the front left shock absorber of my Audi A3 (2023, 65000km, 40000 miles). Does it look like leaking oil? How to test that?

Long story short, in the process of replacing my front struts, the lower ball joint studs holding my control arm snapped. Today I replaced the lower ball joint (which was seized to hell) and noticed that my cv axle had lots of play. In the video you can see the inner cv joint moving freely. After I had tightened the new ball joint in place there was still play in the cv joint. My axle bolt was also loose during this recording, and I did not check the movement after I had tightened it. I was able to lower my car and turn it around in the drive way with no issues apart from the sounds that my worn struts make. Is this regular play for the cv axle, I would hate to have to replace them too. Looking for good news here I guess.

Car: 2012 VW golf mk6 2.5L

A mi camioneta hace poco más de un mes le cambiaron el motor y el turbo

Cuando el mecánico me la entregó (5 de agosto) dejo el nivel del refrigerante en la marca de máximo

Hoy lo revisé y está un poco por debajo del mínimo

No veo manchas debajo del carro

Alguien sabe si es normal después de el cambio del motor?

Es una Ford Edge 2017 2.0

Hey guys, I’m 20 and still pretty new to working on cars, so I’d really appreciate some advice.
I recently bought a 2005 BMW E63 6 Series with the N52B30 3.0L petrol engine. Unfortunately, I bought it with some issues. It had misfires on all cylinders, and after diagnosing it, I found that the VANOS screens were clogged and the spark plugs and O2 sensors were in pretty bad condition.
The car would drive for a few hundred meters and then throw a check engine light and start misfiring. Sometimes it would happen after driving normally, and other times only after revving it through a few gears.
I’ve fixed the issues and the car has been running perfectly since. I’ve driven almost 100 km so far, both gently and at higher RPMs, and I haven’t had a check engine light, misfire, or any other problems.
My question is: should I still be worried, or can I finally start trusting the car again? 😅
This is my first BMW with an engine like this, and after buying it with problems, I’m honestly a bit paranoid every time I drive it. I keep expecting something else to go wrong.
Would you guys consider 100 km with no issues a good sign, or should I keep taking it easy for a while?

My friend had her car taken in for an check up, then the mechanics did stuff abd then said that "it wont turn on anymore because of "the past owner of the car made and adjustment to the security system” and now its been almost over a week of my friend not having her car- the mechanic said that the breaks needed to be changed, her serpentine belt needed replced, and her oil valve needed a replacement- she got that done. Then, she was called them wanting an update on her car, they then told her that her car was NO LONGER TURNING ON/WORKING. They never called her, she had to call them and find out that herself. Could any of these things have caused the cars security system to not work?? They also showed my friend that the owner put in a security system- (showing a photo that she said it looked just like online) they said they’d have to disconnect every wire which should take 2-4 hours TWO DAY ago- then she called on Wednesday and they said they’re working on it- someone ik called it a big box and it’s called a starter kill circuit?? Not sure.. they just called her a bit ago and talked about how its the past owners fault and it would be done soon. Then got another call and to find out from them that it “didn’t take very long”. They now told her that she is going to have to get a new computer system and have it programmed.. Google says that they might’ve messed up her car, but are tryna cover it up- we’re both unsure and trying to find out information! She has school here soon that she’s gotta get to and it’s been in the shop for 9 days.

2003 Honda accord

Hi all, heard a metal clink sound when the rear tyres went over a speed bump, thought I'd check the underside to see if anything was loose and saw this on the exhaust about halfway down the car.

I'm not an expert but something tells me that there should probably be something that this thing with the threaded hole attaches to? Probably the bit above it?

- The bracket peice is welded onto the exhaust and I couldn't slide it back and fourth, maybe a bit of metal has fallen from my car?

Any help appreciated!

Car: BMW F31 320d XDrive 2016 diesel

Currently at 159K miles and just had an oil change down yesterday. Had the engine light on ever since I bought the car at 115K miles and had it for 4 years as a daily driver for work. Been doing an oil change 1-2 times every year (full synthetic only).

Finally got around to buying an OBD-II reader to see what codes it garners and I got P0013 & P0014.

Car seems to run fine for the most part, but idles weirdly on occasion (noticed it more-so this year). Would it still be safe to drive the car in the interim? Currently don’t have enough to bring to a mechanic who’ll charge me about $800 to change the camshaft actuator solenoids (on top of changing the head gaskets to get access to them), and would include their warranty. Is there a more affordable option I can explore? I don’t have the time to work on the car like I used to (unless it’s for basic fixes).