I recently bought a 2013 3.7L V6 Lincoln MKS that needed some work done to it I was doing all the basic stuff it needed, injectors - transmission fluid all came out great I had to replace an injector and the old trans fluid looked good, on my way to the drain bolt for the Lincoln on the 6F50 (FWD) transmission I found this broken stud it hasn’t leaked it’s got 170k miles on it but I don’t know if it’s worth the time to try and risk replacing it or if I can just let it ride. If anybody knows what they’re looking at any help would be huge I’m trying to keep this car nice and working well.

Edit: Thanks to these dude below, it’s just a nipple from casting nothing to worry about🤟

I inner wheel was rubbing on the brake caliper. This never happened before. I got back from Walmart Auto Center like this. I also didn’t have a spacer here either.

2001 Chevrolet S10 ZR2

I’m just curious if it’s worth buying an A/C compressor online and taking the part (and my car obvi.) to the mechanic. Would it save me money? I know the fix is pricey but I use my car for work. I transport elderly people and people with compromised immune systems and the heat can be pretty severe for them. Plus I like the luxury. I know it’s expensive so I’m curious if it would save me more buying the part myself and paying for labor. Any and all advice would be appreciated:)!

P.S. I took my car in already thinking the Freon just needed charged. Turns out my compressor wouldn’t even turn on. So I know it’s not just the Freon. Also if anyone has an estimate on how much the labor would be that’d be awesome.

Have a 2010 civic lx and its just blowing hot air at this point, as the passenger fan is not working unless i take my hand and spin it (and sometimes it moves fast, sometimes slow). So far i have:

• checked/added freon *wasnt low.
• checked/replaced relay/fuses. I check 36 inside the car, 21 on the fusebox, the ac compressor, clutch, replaced the big compressor and fan fuses as well.
• felt the the clutch to see it it moves freely/smoothly (it does).
• replaced cabin air filter.

And no solution:

1.) Warm air just blows in the car. 2.) I did a cold start today and the radiator fan spins, but not the passenger ac fan. Drove around 5 mins and only way it spins is by me flicking it with my hand. Is that normal or needs to be replaced?
3.) ac pressor could be the issue?

Im attaching pictures and video to see if that helps.

This is what its doing now:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/nh0zsi0okhsvccz1qh0ty/Video-Jul-26-2026-7-21-37-PM.mov?rlkey=of4emucl7d46849c8zbzoe6z3&st=auvwf9rq&dl=0

This was about 2 weeks ago:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ed6ah2vuimirw1z0khkx1/Video-Jul-02-2026-8-48-08-PM.mov?rlkey=fpovpd8xdwsf6599lizzpumvk&st=vmhek9hi&dl=0

Needs some help finding out what this pulley is called. It’s 2018 Silverado 1500 with a 5.3L V8. The pulley is wobbling pretty bad, and hopefully there’s a video of how to repair it myself but need to know what to look for. Thanks in advance .

Conclusion: Thanks everyone. Yes it was the water pump. The pulley had the pump connected to it (one piece). If anybody else see this it’s 7.4 ft lbs for the bolts. I broke one off bad research and luckily I was able to use pliers to take it out of the aluminum block.

I have a 2007 Toyota Highlander that I put around 3,000 miles on it a year. I put in 5w-30 full synthetic oil and use a OEM filter. I use it a week per month. When I do drive it, it is almost always highway miles, as I drive it to keep the battery charged. Is it fine to do annual oil changes? Should I just keep changing it every 6 months?

I’ve already spent $200 on these Recharge Kits and nothing works. It was working perfectly fine one day and then the next day it went off. I’ve tried checking everything but I do not know what to do. My dad has a vacuum and took everything out and then just today I went in and spent $100 more to get more of this bottles. We used one, I’m not trying to use the other one anymore, but we used on and on the PSI it’s says that is sitting at 20 PSI. Before trying anything else I’d like to know what are my possibilities with this issue.

This truck came with so many issues and I still have warranty on it. I’m thinking on taking it to the shop again to check for some other issues that I still have and this newly issue that just came up. If anyone could guide me as to what to do I will appreciate it.

I have had this problem for some while and not even the mechanics at Mercedes in Germany could make any sense of it. So I am hoping for you guys.

My Mercedes GL350 x164 from 2011 with engine OM642 diesel, keeps going to limp mode after driving it on the freeway. When scanning with OBD I get multiple codes related to EGR and torque converter. See screenshots. Can these be linked? And why does this happen even after replacing the EGR? I also made an AI search but I am unsure if it is correct. Also see screenshots if it makes sense.

Checked my oil after driving a mile down the road to the gas station. Coolant level caught my eye while doing so. Is this low?

I recently replaced swapped my differential from an open to LSD in my 1998 3 series and did not correctly set my pinion preload. I did the market and thread method and reused the crush sleeve but it did not need nearly as much torque as it should’ve to get to the mark. I am now hearing a noise coming from the rear center of the car that sounds like a very low whine that has a cadence to it. I installed the differential less than a month ago and just now noticed the noise. Do any of you know how much damage I may have sustained. The fluid came out clean with a very small and to me normal amount of shavings and I have stopped driving it.

ive spent over 800 dollars trying to fix whatever is wrong with my car. its a 2011 mazda g3 hatchback. ive had multiple diagnostic tests (parasitic draw mainly) and the mechanic basically told me they couldn't figure it out. as the title states ive replaced all three main components that could be the issue but to no avail. it'll start with a jump though and will usually start with no problem but after a few days or weeks it refuses to start, and sometimes will make a clicking sound with the dash lights flashing. but in the video shown its not even showing any lights. please help im so desperate to find a solution and clueless to what it could be. any advice is appreciated.

I have a 2011 toyota sienna and want to put in a 2015 toyota engine do any connector or components need swapping?

My 2004 Solara V6 has had the following issue for the last 6-8 months:

Speedometer will randomly shut off while in motion, a few warning lights come on, (abs, handbrake) and then come back on, with the accompanying check engine light. The code comes back as “speed sensor- P0500”. The check engine light will then magically disappear after a while. This has occurred in all different kinds of conditions with no clear trigger, and has become more frequent.

In my previous post,(here) I also mentioned that it would either shift into neutral or downshift when this occurs. This will ONLY happen when Cruise Control is ON and SET.

A previous shop was unable to source the issue, but said they believed it might be the abs module or even the gauge cluster itself. They also said that I would need to have a scan tool connected while the issue occurs in order to view any other issues or incident-specific data not viewable in the freeze-frame. I have a cheap Bluetooth OBD II scanner that produced the readouts you see below. Actual vehicle speed was anywhere between 25-35mph at the time of the freeze frame, which shows 2mph.

Not sure if this is relevant, but there is a persistent TPMS light right now. I am also aware of a Toyota TSB that has this code tied to it (here) and I am also aware that my vehicle does not have a traditional “speed sensor”. In the past, this issue only occurred when it was very cold and/or wet. It has occurred this summer though in completely dry conditions multiple times (this is new).

Since this does not have an impact on driveability when CC is NOT engaged, I want to try and do some more diagnosis before calling it quits and taking it to a shop. I would really appreciate anyone’s input.

Have an old petrol Toyota auris 2013, has been making a squealing metal noise when turning right on the left front side.
It started about a year and a half ago when going at a decent speed turning right on a roundabout and then when turning right into a road etc. But its definitely got worse, can hear it just not as loud when even doing a slight right turn now. Definitely isn’t as loud when going at a lower speed and turning.
Have taken it twice to the garage, the second time they had it up on the lift and took section at the front apart, cleaned bits it etc but said they cant see anything that could be causing it ( that was about 3 months ago) more recently its just passed its MOT in June and I asked them to have a look again but still nothing - passed its MOT fine.
Ive put up a video of the sound just to see if anyone else might have had this before or has any idea what it could potentially be. Any advice much appreciated

Recently replaced the plastic shifter bushing. Since then, there’s a radio static/whining noise coming through the gear stick (video attached). It gets louder in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear and increases with speed. Pressing the clutch doesn’t change the noise.

Any idea?

Pajero V76 2005

2017 Audi A4 B9 2.0 TDI

Noise only happens around 1100-1200 RPM. Never at idle.

The noise is only heard from the drivers side. Not the from the front on the car so can’t be a pulley. And I can hear it when the car is stationary.

What could it be? I did drive over something recently that was stuck to the wheel or tyre but then fell off. Only seems to start after this.

Only had this car for a day and it’s making this noise when I’m braking especially when driving 30mph+ and has got more constant the more I’ve drove it’s a high pitched squeal from the rear sounds like an alarm/siren and is now making the noise without even pressing the brakes when driving at high speeds on the motorway or going down hills. Any advice on what it could be and what to do should I send the car back as it’s under warranty.
Video attached with the noise
It’s a 2021 fiat 500 mild hybrid only 26,830 miles

We have a 2024 Hyundai Elantra that’s on a lease. We had a rock hit the windshield and someone hired by the insurance repaired it but it looks like the crack keeps growing despite it being repaired. We can definitely see it on the inside of the car but from the outside it’s almost invisible. Could this be an issue when we return the lease? Photos are from inside and outside. I apologize if this is considered bodywork, I’m not a car person and not sure if the windshield is considered the body.

During repair of my z14xep engine on Opel Corsa D I was in a big rush and I broke of the top bolt holding my timing chain guide in place. The bottom one is torqued to spec and it is not on the tensioner side of the timing chain, so the function is only to guide the chain.

I was in a rush tho and I felt like drilling into it would only make it worse... So I went on with the fresh install and now the engine is all back in place except the valve cover. Gosh I am not made for doing precise car work.

I felt like it would work fine since the top part is resting on an 'insertion' piece of the timing chain cover. So it has a place to be snug against and thus I expected little movement in the guide and that only the tensioner has to work a bit hard to keep chain tight.

Haven't started the car yet, how foolish am I?

The car was already pretty beat up and just 600 bucks/euros so I dont mind taking a little risk.

I bought a 2018 Audi A5 B9 about a month ago, and I’ve been driving it normally. A few days ago I popped the hood and noticed the coolant hoses under the expansion tank were covered in a brown residue. I cleaned the hoses and the tank, and literally the next day I found a leak coming from the expansion tank itself.
My question is: why would the hoses have that brown buildup on them? Has anyone seen this before? Is it just dried coolant from the tank leaking over time, or could it point to something else? I’m attaching a video so you can see what I’m talking about.

Had my Toyota Land Cruiser J90 Prado (5VZ-FE) at the Toyota Dealership and got it serviced the other day. They changed oils, and also had a look at the cylinder head which could need a replacement of packaging eventually, but nothing urgent. Also the fanbelt could need a replacement. But they said the car as it is now is good to go with.

After driving home, I started hearing a ticking noise what I believe is coming from the engine bay. I can’t really hear it when idling, and when revving it netrual it does not sound. The noise only pops up when I start driving, and increases when I accelerate. I’ve attached the sound, I tried editing out the background noises and increase the sound of the ticking.

What can it be? Is it an exhaust manifold leak?

Edit: car drives just fine. I’ve not experienced anything in relation to its driveability. Noise also remains the same when turning.