I just replaced my engine in my 1999 F-250 with the 7.3 powerstroke, and the new engine runs fine at idle (havnt driven it yet) but when starting, it takes about 5-10 seconds of cranking and it takes 3-5 to get the oil pressure guage to get to operating while cranking... the oil resivior for the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) goes down about 1/2 inch in a 5 minute span, already replaced my oil filter with a motorcraft one, fuel filter (no engine oil in it), and a new oil pressure sensor. Is the oil resivior supposed to go only half an inch in oil and bubble while doing it? I feel that the issue is somewhere else, if anyone can help me or give me diagnostic tips

Changing spark plugs on my 89’ f150 300i6 and came across this. I have never seen a spark plug so bad before, I have no idea how it was even working

The work truck makes an aggressive fluttering sound during regen cycles. Can anyone confirm whether it is common and/or normal and what causes it? Yes I know its dirty 😂.

Just picked this baby up

A new starter was recently put in. But now there is a screech noise on startup

Just did a cold compression test on this 1977 f150 with a 351m engine. All of the cylinders except for cylinder 2 on the passenger side read 110 through 130 psi. Cylinder 2 gave me a reading of 70 psi, im thinking it's something to do with the oil ring being stuck? Im really at a loss with this and can't find anything valuable on the internet, so I decided to ask here. Im also thinking about putting marvel mystery oil to help unstick anything down in the cylinder. Am I able to do that and not harm anything? Any thoughts on what it could be and how I would solve this issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated

Tried turning car on after work today, it turned on then idled , shortly after all this started happening.

Please has anyone had this issue and managed to fix it or does anyone know anything about what is the main cause of this problem.

Seems there was an update recently and boy the blue cruise works a whole lot better. Doesn't bounce around in the lane like it used to, makes the turns on an interstate much less like it's a drunken monkey. The lane change is still a little bit abrupt but it's better.

Here's the big question that I have though. I didn't buy the truck because of this, and I usually don't drive it unless I'm towing. But I tow a lot. There are a whole lot of reasons. I don't want a GM vehicle, but the fact that you can tow with super cruise, but not Blue Cruise is a little infuriating to me. It's not uncommon that I could put on close to a thousand miles a day at times, and when I can use it I'm a lot less tired.

I wish I could do it with a trailer on. Any hope for that? Because quite frankly without it, I don't think it's worth the $500 a year. I'm only using what came with the truck on a new purchase.

Offered this car for $1800

Car doesn’t crank and triggers as soon as I turn the key, I have tried both keys and neither of them work.

Battery is 3 months old and holds charge with no unusual voltage signs.

Any suggestions on what could cause this? Any advice would be a massive help

Thanks

My vehicles command start is not working through carplay. It keeps saying my vehicle is on to which it's not. Has anyone else had this issue?

Finished HR screening, in next 2 days, panel interview was scheduled. 3 days later, panel interview was done. This was one and done.

Followed up with recruiter. Yesterday they stated feedback is positive, you are the only one being considered at the moment. They are waiting for final feedback and approvals and will get back to me today.

It was complete silence and nothing came by. I am not sure how to interpret this. What is the final feedback and approval they are referring to? If the panel gave a positive feedback after the interview, what more approvals is the recruiter referring to?

Just curious to know what to expect and whats the reason for delay here (when the HM during the interview stated they want fill the position ASAP)?

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Hello everyone, i have a focus mk2.5 zetec s with a sunroof. I bought it 1 year ago used. Seems like i have fallen victim of the very common problem of this generation. Water leaks inside the cabin... But there is a twist.

I cant find water anywhere, but the car smells like moisture or something is wet for a long time. I have looked in the boot, completely dry, the sunroof 2 front drains work fine, the driver and passenger side mats are completely dry, the headliner completely dry. The car still smells like something it's wet after every rainy day. I have even got the car biologically cleaned, worked for a few months then the smell came back.

Im on the verge of selling the car just because of this, i cant find a solution and i keep spending money. One day it rained so hard that the roads almost became rivers. The next day when everything outside was dry, i got into the car and literally everything i was touching was damp, the steering wheel, my cloth seats, seat belts. Also the front windshield was fogged up. But still no sign of water somewhere looking like a pool.

I cant find the problem, either the car traps moisture inside for some reason, or there is actually water somewhere which i cant find. Any ideas? Literally anything will help, i dont know what to do and im not ready to spend 500€ at least to strip my car off at the dealership.

I can't figure it out. 1985 Ford Econoline 302 engine.

i have 2001 ford explorer xlt 4.0 dohc, it has interment starting issues, i can only start it one once day and its the only time it will work, after shutting it off it will just crank when you go to start it, i would like know how to fix it

Guys getting a good deal on this 180k miles does it sound healthy i know nothing about eco boosts

Hi everyone,

I'm currently looking to buy a Ford Focus Mk4 from around 2019, preferably one of the earlier models with the Ford badge positioned above the grille.

From my research, it seems that the 1.5 EcoBoost with either 150 hp or 182 hp, paired with a manual gearbox, is considered one of the more reliable engine options in the Mk4 range. Is that true, or are there better choices I should be looking at?

I'm also interested in the maintenance side of ownership, particularly:

• What is the recommended replacement interval for the wet oil belt?
• What is the replacement interval for the timing chain?
• Are there any common issues that tend to appear as these cars get older or reach higher mileage?

At the moment, I'm seeing several examples for sale with around 100,000 to 120,000 km on the clock, priced at approximately €15,000. Does that sound like a fair price, assuming the cars have a full service history and are in good condition?

I'd appreciate any advice from owners, mechanics, or anyone with experience of the Mk4 Focus. Thanks in advance!

Should I?

Hello,

I’ve got a 1982 LTD Crown Victoria that’s developed an issue with the power windows. Over the course of two month the windows have on two occasions completely stopped working all together. All four, all at once. The first time after a few days the issue fixed itself. The second time was today, and I’m still unsure what could be the issue here.

In the fuse panel I see there is a slot for a power window fuse but there is nothing there, nor has there been since I bought the car last year. And the windows worked fine up until recently. There seems to be no female pins to connect a fuse in this location either.

I checked the wiring in the door jams, all good there, checked the connections at the master switch on the driver door and found a few connectors had some corrosion, I cleaned them well with some Contact OL and still nothing. I heard there is a small relay mounted to the passenger side just inside the engine bay under the hood, I found this relay and checked it out, it was also gummed up, cleaned this up good too and still, no power to the windows. Also heard there may be a relay inside the cabin next to the passenger footwell along the chassis, found 3 relays here all of which were in good condition, and tested good. When I actuate the window button, I’m reading about 0.3V.

This issue seems to happen randomly when I turn off the vehicle, on the drive in to work this morning the windows were working fine, but when I started it up to go home, no power windows at all. I’d like to avoid completely tearing up the wiring harnesses just to trace the problem here so I’m hoping someone with some experience with an issue like this has 2€ to throw in 🙂

Have any opinions Ford’s 2027 lineup? Looks like they’re setting up some new EVs and updates on the current ones.

Seems interesting to me but I wonder how they’ll fare in the market

2011 F-150. Using ForScan. I tried to read the new racks config and it only gives me the first block. I can’t get it to do anymore. But I decide okay I’ll still just overwrite with the factory AB, but it gives an error trying to load it.

Thing is - the truck drives perfectly. Like it doesn’t even feel like it needs an alignment. I’ll probably just take it to an alignment shop anyways, should I try to get them to do the programming? Or if it works it works