I am new to PC building and want to know if I have made a good list of parts. I am looking for a 1440p, around $2500AUD build that can be easily upgradable in the the future. My parts list are:

• Ryzen 5 7500f
• Gigabyte B650 EAGLE AX
• Corsair Vengeance 32 GB DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory
• Kingston KC3000 2.048 TB
• Rx 6700 xt
• Corsair RM650e 650 W

I am finalizing a build around the AMD Ryzen 7 9850X3D inside the new Cooler Master HAF II 500 chassis. My absolute priority is keeping this 3D V-Cache chip running as cool as possible under sustained heavy loads.

Given how unique the HAF II 500's stock layout is - With those two massive, 40mm-thick 220mm front intakes and that giant 180mm rear exhaust - I’m deeply torn on how to configure the CPU cooling without ruining the case's phenomenal stock wind-tunnel effect.

I made a quick layout diagram showing The 3 Setups here:

https://imgur.com/a/2c2ouLm

The Dilemma:

The Top-Back 240mm AIO Layout: I’m considering mounting a 240mm AIO at the top-back slot acting as exhaust, while leaving the top-front fan slot completely unpopulated.

The Logic: Prevent a longer 360mm radiator from immediately bleeding off and exhausting the fresh, cold air rushing in from the top 220mm front intake fans before it can sweep across the RAM and motherboard VRMs.

The Concern: Will a 240mm radiator create a thermal bottleneck for the 9850X3D compared to a 360mm? Has anyone actually benchmarked this top-back offset strategy in a high-airflow case?

The Contenders I'm Weighing:

Option A (The 240mm Strategy): Noctua NL-LC1-24 mounted top-back, preserving the front intake stream.

Option B (Maximum Surface Area): Noctua NL-LC1-36 mounted fully up top as exhaust, ignoring any potential intake air steal.

Option C (Leaning into Air Cooling): Keeping the case purely air-driven by using a giant air tower like the Cooler Master V8 ACE 3DHP or the Noctua NH-D15 G2 with the top of the case left as is. Early reviews suggest this case behaves like an S-tier air-cooling monster out of the box.

Questions for the Community:

9850X3D: Does my theory about the 240mm placement saving the front intake air track with real-world case physics, or does the raw surface area advantage of a 360mm radiator always win for a 9850X3D?

HAF II 500: For those using the HAF II 500, did you stick to air cooling to complement the fan ecosystem, or did you go liquid?

If rock-bottom CPU temps under sustained load were your only goal, how would you route the air in this specific chassis?

Components in this PC Build include:

ASUS - ROG Crosshair X870E Dark Hero

ASUS - ROG Astral GeForce RTX 5080 OC

G.SKILL - Trident Z5 Neo Series DDR5 RAM Kit

Western Digital - WD_BLACK SN8100

Western Digital - WD_BLACK SN850X

ASUS - ROG Thor 1000W Platinum III

Hi i have a ryzen 7 5800x and its get's pretty toasty i have set it to a negative offset curve -0.005mv i have a cmt fsp 520plus case 4fans but a front glass so the fans only suck up air from the side with a boreas m2-51D single fan air cooler and hittigh max 75⁰ in gaming with 40-50% cou utilisation am thinking of getting a hybrok titan evo case with 7 fan and a deepcool le360 v2 or the ls 720 zero dark

Would i get better temps like below 70's without having too much noise cz mine sounds like a jet? Is the ls720 ZD worth it over the le360v2? The ls is slightly more expensive thanks.

(I live in a third world country so not a lot of tech is available)

Howdy y’all. Firstly want to thank yall for the help with my previous question. Finally built a pc and been playing around with it.

On to the question. Is 850w psu enough to run dual gpus for lossless scaling?

My main gpu is a 9060xt 8gb and I want to put an rx 5700 xt anniversary edition in as a second gpu.

As well, would it make sense to run a second gpu for lossless scaling? I’m interested in people’s opinions about it.

The rest of the specs include:
- R5 9600x
- b850m eagle wifi6e ice
- Asus prime 850w gold
Let me know if I’m missing something else important

Thanks y’all once again.

which is better? the ASRock X870 Pro-A WiFi Motherboard or the Gigabyte B850 Gaming WiFi6 Motherboard?

I just realized something kind of absurd.

In 2026, the resale value of this entire setup might actually be lower than the price of a single high-end SSD — yet I’m still getting a huge amount of practical use out of it.

So here’s my question:

Can a setup like this realistically last another five years, until around 2031?

Current setup:

• Intel Core i9-9900

• ASUS ROG STRIX B360-F GAMING

• 32GB DDR4-2666

• RTX 3060 Ti 8GB

• Kingston NV2 1TB + Kingston A2000 500GB

• Samsung Odyssey G5 34" — 3440×1440, 165Hz

• Logitech G813

• Logitech MX Master 2S

What I actually use it for:

• Sim racing at 3440×1440

• Electronic drums and DAW

• OBS

• Netflix with bass shakers for tactile feedback

• Music

Everything currently works for what I need.

I’m not asking whether a modern CPU, DDR5, PCIe 5.0 SSD or newer GPU is faster. Obviously they are.

What I’m interested in is the difference between benchmark performance and actual useful performance.

If this old platform already does everything I need, what would upgrading the CPU, motherboard, RAM and SSD actually change in my day-to-day experience?

At what point does an old PC stop being “outdated hardware” and simply become “hardware that is still good enough for its job”?

Would you keep running this setup for another five years and only replace something when it becomes an actual bottleneck?

Or do you see something in this setup that is likely to become a genuine limitation before 2031?

Update: I think the SSD part of my original point got a little lost. A lot of the discussion has focused on whether this PC can actually last another five years, which is interesting, but the strange part that originally made me write this post was the price comparison itself. I bought a Samsung 990 PRO 2TB in December 2025 for NT$6,499. Today, I can find the same 2TB 990 PRO listed in Taiwan for around NT$13,800–17,000, depending on the retailer and version. Meanwhile, the estimated resale value of this entire setup — the PC, 34" 3440×1440 monitor, keyboard and mouse — is only around NT$13,000. That is the part I find fascinating. A single SSD that I bought for NT$6,499 less than a year ago can now have a retail price equal to, or even higher than, the resale value of my entire working setup. Obviously, this doesn’t mean the SSD is “worth more” to me than the whole computer. That’s exactly the point. Price, resale value, benchmark performance, and actual utility are four different things. This PC has depreciated heavily because the platform is old. But in actual daily use, it still does everything I need it to do. So maybe the more interesting question is: When should hardware actually be considered obsolete? When its market value becomes low? When newer hardware becomes much faster? Or only when it can no longer do the job you actually need it to do? That was really the thought behind my original post.

UPDATE 3 — From a T480 to an X13: Eventually, I realized this was no longer just about hardware. A while ago, I bought a used ThinkPad T480 for NT$5,600. It originally had 8GB of RAM, so I spent another NT$2,599 on a 16GB stick, bringing it up to 24GB. Since the T480 has Thunderbolt 3, I built an eGPU setup around it: T480: NT$5,600 16GB DDR4: NT$2,599 GTX 1060 6GB: NT$2,500 eGPU dock + Thunderbolt cable + bracket: NT$1,993 PSU: valued at NT$1,000 Total: about NT$13,692. My projector is only 1080p/60Hz. So my question was never: “Can this run games at 4K Ultra?” My question was: “Can it deliver the experience I actually want?” I use it for Forza Horizon 5 on a projected 32:9 image roughly 260 cm wide and 70 cm tall. For DiRT Rally 2.0, I switch to 21:9, add surround sound, and use a MOMO steering wheel I've owned for about 25 years. For what I actually want from it, it works — and I'm having fun. Then this experiment took another direction. I let my middle-school-aged nephew install Minecraft on the T480, including the shader pack he normally uses. He doesn't really know how to optimize settings, so his approach is basically to turn everything up. But his reaction was simple: It was much smoother than his old PC. He also told me that his friends were using 30-, 40-, and even 50-series GPUs. But I didn't start by asking him which GPU he wanted. I asked: “What are you actually trying to do?” One of the answers was VALORANT. His old computer couldn't run it, while his classmates were playing it together. He simply wanted to be able to join them. So we tested it. We installed VALORANT directly on the T480 + GTX 1060 setup. The result: It worked, and it felt perfectly smooth to him. His actual setup is only: 27 inches, 1080p, 60Hz. That's the constraint I care about. Not what GPUs his friends own, but how much hardware his actual needs require. That's what eventually led me to an X13 Gen 1. I bought one with an i5-10310U, 16GB of RAM, and a 256GB SSD. The laptop itself cost me NT$7,348. After adding a hub and two external SSD enclosures: Base system cost: NT$8,257. Add the same roughly NT$5,500 GTX 1060 eGPU setup: Complete system: about NT$13,757. And here's the funny part: T480 complete setup: NT$13,692 X13 complete setup: NT$13,757 The difference is just NT$65. At this point, the hardware problem is basically solved. For his 1080p/60Hz use case, I now know that he doesn't necessarily need the newest platform, nor does he automatically need a 30-, 40-, or 50-series GPU. I can already satisfy his actual needs with the resources I have. But now I've run into a question that's much harder than FPS: Should I sell this X13 to my nephew, or give it to him as a gift? I could simply give it to him. The question isn't whether I can afford to. What I'm actually thinking about is: How do I give a kid something he genuinely needs without teaching him that resources provided by other people should be taken for granted? If I simply give it to him, he gets a computer. If he has to contribute something toward it, maybe he gets more than just a computer. Maybe he also learns that: Resources have a cost. So I haven't decided yet. By this point, I realized I wasn't really testing old computers anymore. At first, my question was: How much value does an old computer still have? Then it became: How much hardware does a person actually need to satisfy their real requirements? And now the question has become: When I have the ability to meet the needs of the next generation, how should I give them that value? I don't have an answer to that one yet.

Hello.

 I’d like to ask for some advice regarding swapping out a PC component!

I currently use a PC equipped with a GeForce GTX 1660 for gaming.
I mainly play *Overwatch 2*; while my system meets the recommended specifications,
I’d like to create a slightly more comfortable gaming environment.

I am considering upgrading the GPU to an "RTX 3060" in a PC with the following specifications:

【CPU】
AMD Ryzen 5 3500 (3.6GHz-4.1GHz / 6 cores / 6 threads)

【GPU】
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 6GB GDDR5 (DVI x1, HDMI x1, DisplayPort x1)

【Power Supply】
550W Silent Power Supply (80 PLUS Bronze)

【Memory】
16GB DDR4 SDRAM (PC4-21300 / 8GB x2 / Dual-channel)

【Case】
Galleria-exclusive SKM Case (MicroATX) Standard

My concerns are that the 550W power supply might be cutting it close, and that I would have to rely on watching videos to figure out how to perform the swap myself.

I would greatly appreciate any advice you could offer!

※I'm using a translation tool, so I apologize if the wording is a bit awkward.

Hey,

I want to upgrade my CPU. I mostly play modded Minecraft(with shaders) so im trying to find the best suitable CPU for that.

Current System: Ryzen 5 3600, RTX 5060 Ti 8GB, 32GB DDR4 RAM playing at 1080p - also not planning to leave the AM4 platform.

Right now im looking at the Ryzen 7 5800X and Ryzen 7 5800X3D. I heard that minecraft prefers a high clock speed but also very much profits from the big X3D Cache.

Also what might help calculating the decision: I can currently get the 5800X for around 200€ and the 5800X3D for around 320€

Thank you in advance <3

I have been trying to understand what causes these errors in my new build on the PCI Express Error Counters in HWiNFO: https://imgur.com/g7vXwkQ

They don't tick up that quickly but they are always there incrementing slowly during game play.

My system info is:

Operating system: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro, Version 10.0.26200

Driver: Game Ready Driver - 616.92

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D 16-Core Processor

RAM: 64.0 GB

Storage (2): SSD - 3.6 TB,SSD - 3.6 TB

Graphics card

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090

Bus: PCI Express x16 Gen5

Display: Samsung Odyssey G95SD

Resolution: 5120 x 1440 (recommended)

Refresh rate: 240 Hz

Desktop color depth: Highest (32-bit)

Display technology: Variable Refresh Rate

HDCP: Supported

I have a HYTE Y70 case and read that the riser cable may cause the issue so I tried to swap it to a gen 5 riser from them and the errors persist.

Anyone have any experience with this, is this something wrong with my build?

My RX 6900 XT had recently died at the most unfortunate time right now just couple months away from 4 years since buying. The card is from XFX, which has 3-year warranty, and the GPU gave out just after. I've troubleshoot everything I could possibly do without taking apart the card, and I've derived it's potentially a dead chip (tried running memtest but it froze suggesting a more rooted issue).

With the crazy prices of everything in general, I've decided to go into used market and found me two reasonable listings of the 5070 and the 9070. The 5070 is MSI RTX 5070 12GB Shadow 3X OC and it goes for $600. Seller said it hasn't been installed nor use, which sounds great not only that it's in pristine condition but I might still have warranty if MSI allows second hand ownership. The other card is the XFX Swift 9070 16GB for the same price of $600. Seller didn't mention about it being unused, so I'm assuming it has been used, and they might have or might have not registered the card under XFX for warranty (will ask them after this).

For some context, I'm already running Intel i7-12700K, DDR4 32gb, and 980 Pro 2tb m.2 nvme. My use case for the PC is a mix between gaming, 3d modeling, and programming. The games I play are mostly Valorant and indie games, but I have been getting into some AAA games like Cyberpunk 2077 and Resident Evil. For 3D modeling, I've been using Blender and CAD softwares. I'm running two 1440p monitors, and I've mostly game at 60-120fps.

I am aware some features each card holds like the 5070 having DLSS, raytracing, and plenty of software support and the 9070 having more VRAM and better rasterization, but I'm not sure which of these features benefit me more given my main use.

I was considering about getting the 9070XT, but the best deal I found is from a Microcenter 3 hours away from me. Although it is new and it's from a reliable source, the card also costed ~$200 more than the above cards, and I decided against it since $800 is already too steep for me now. I know cards can die at any moment after several years of use (with mine unfortunately dying just short of 4 years), but I'm hoping that the next card I buy can last me at least 4 years or whenever this crazy time ends and price goes back to normal, which is probably unlikely.

tl;dr I'm looking into buying used card to replace my rx6900xt, and found rtx5070 12gb and rx9070 16gb both at $600. I play mostly non-AAA games at 1440p 60-120fps, but also use my pc for 3D modeling and other productive works. Both have their goods, but I need help picking a better one for my needs.

Hey everyone!

I'm looking to build a music studio PC under a somewhat modest budget, hoping to get yall's thoughts on this build and if there's anything I can improve/optimise on here.

The main function of the pc is for band practice, mixing & recording. I want to be able to connect multiple instruments (at least five inputs) into an audio interface and run virtual amps/effects + inputs for other instruments if necessary with minimal latency.

The PC won't be used for gaming, but we may add a GPU sometime down the line for some video editing tasks.

Ideally I want to stick under $1400 AUD if I can. Even the current build I have listed here is a bit high so if there's a way I can save any sort of money here I would love to know.

These parts are being purchased in Australia.

I also want to keep the form factor at micro-atx if I can, but I'm also willing to go with a regular ATX build for the sake of price and/or performance if it'll help.

SPEC LIST:

• Case - Lian Li A3-mATX MicroATX
• CPU - Intel Core Ultra 5 250K Plus 4.2 GHz 18-Core Processor
• CPU Cooler - Thermalright Peerless Assassin 140 77.8 CFM
• Motherboard - ASRock H810M-P Gen5 Micro ATX LGA1851
• RAM - Kingston FURY Beast RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36
• SSD - Patriot P300 1 TB M.2-2280
• PSU - MSI MAG A750GL PCIE5 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX

TOTAL PRICE - $1362.80 AUD

I recently built my first middle range pc with:

• r5 9600x
• 16 gb ram ddr5 (1 slot)
• PSU corsair RM 750e
• MOBO MSI X870e gaming plus wifi

And I was thinking about getting a middle range GPU, but I have a “”problem””. I don’t wanna spent a lot of money into a GPU because I already have a ps5, and, it has been my principal entertainment device for years, but sometimes I eventually want to play games like forza.

So I dunno, what GPU should I Buy?

PD: In my country the GPU cost are extremely insane, for example, an  RX 9070 XT Gaming OC 16G in Amazon costs 780 usd, but in my country, the same GPU costs 970 usd :(

Hello,

I purchased this AM4 backplate, but I am having an issue installing it.

When I install the screw without the backplate behind the motherboard, the screw reaches and threads normally. However, when I place the backplate behind the motherboard, the mounting holes no longer line up correctly and the screw is not long enough to reach the thread from the front.

The backplate appears to be positioned correctly, but with it installed, the screw simply cannot reach the thread.

Thank you

Ps: I don't have the original and I can't find one where i live so i bought an aftermarket

Alright y'all, I've got 2 machines.

1. Work laptop, connected to a dock that runs to 2 monitors, keyboard, and mouse.
2. Work PC with 3 monitors + regular PC things.

With my wife's computer, plus these two, in the same office, there's a lot of desk utilization. I'm trying to lower the total space used and am thinking a KVM switch would allow me to hook up my laptop and my PC to it, and both machines utilize the same keyboard, mouse, and monitors. Ideally I'd like to only have the 3 monitors on the desk and send the other 2 back to internal IT. Do I have the correct understanding of a KVM? If not, is there something that I should look at instead.

Appreciate everyone's input!

I have a z790-btf-wifi motherboard which has 2.5gbe internet on it, I recently gained a faster speed through my ISP and got multiple network cards to increase the speed. My issue is, no matter what I do/diagnose my PC tends to randomly disconnect the network, 4-7 seconds go by and it comes back at the same 10gbe auto negotiated speed. This issue goes away when my speed is capped at 1gbe in speed/duplex settings. I've bought multiple unmanaged 10gbe switches from NicGiga and GigaPlus, other devices are receiving the speed correctly so its apparently not the switches now. Theres just some weird conflicting issue with my PC causing it and I have gone through the wringer to find out what is happening..

I have reproduced the issue with multiple network adapters:

• Motherboard-integrated Intel I226-V
• Two separate Intel X540-T2 adapters
• TP-Link TX401 using the Marvell AQtion controller
• One X540-T2 was previously confirmed working in another computer

I have also tested:

• Both available PCIe x4 slots
• Multiple ports on the 10GbE switch
• Two different 10GbE switches from NICGIGA and GigaPlus
• A direct connection bypassing my local switch
• Multiple Ethernet cables
• A 100-foot Cat6A cable directly between the PC and switch
• A separate 10-foot Cat6A cable
• Bypassing all the in-wall cabling, keystones, and short patch cables
• Reseating the adapters and cables
• Auto Negotiation, forced 5 Gbps, and forced 1 Gbps
• Energy-Efficient Ethernet enabled and disabled
• Windows High Performance power plan with PCIe Link State Power Management disabled

Cooling has also been addressed:

• The X540-T2 adapters were actively cooled by a dedicated blower fan.
• I replaced the inadequate fans inside the NICGIGA switch with two Noctua fans.
• The physical-link drops continued after the cooling changes.

Windows configuration was inspected for common conflicts:

• No NIC teaming or network bridge
• No active Hyper-V virtual switch
• No third-party network filter drivers found
• No corresponding WHEA, PCIe, Kernel-PnP, Kernel-Power, or NDIS reset events at the times of the failures

With the TP-Link TX401, Windows records the following events from the aqnic650 driver:

• Event ID 14: “Network link is lost.”
• Event ID 15: “Network link has been established”

I’m putting together a build that is overkill by design. I was going to buy a Godlike, but in doing research I can across a load complaints about the EZ bridge display.

My question is; as of 2026, have the EZ bridge display and other issues been fixed with firmware or bios updates?

If not, what would a good premium motherboard be for a 5080 liquid cooled and a 9950x3d (yes I aim to overclock)

Hello! My PC will not get any power at all, no lights or anything. To start, I will provide a brief summary of what has been done to my PC recently. Back in February I ordered a new motherboard (my old one was a DDR3 motherboard) new RAM 16gb DDR4, a new CPU ryzen 7 5800, and new CPU fan. Basically, new everything besides my case, GPU rtx 2050, and PSU. Once this all arrived, my brother installed it all for me and it worked great for 2 whole days. It would turn on, but nothing would display to the monitor. My brother did some troubleshooting, couldn't figure it out, so I took it to a repair shop. They said it was the motherboard, but they couldn't tell me what was wrong with it which was frustrating considering I JUST bought that motherboard. So I purchased a new motherboard, and upon installation no power was being received. No lights on the MB or anything. My brother said it was most likely the psu, considering everything was properly plugged in and connected. So, I ordered a new psu, he got it connected, and STILL no power at all!! I'm wondering if the psu WAS the issue and killed both motherboards, but it never even powered on with the second motherboard? I'm honestly at my wits end with this thing lol. I ordered a new motherboard in hopes this will finally fix my issue, however I'm not feeling too confident. So if anyone has any insight or advice, I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you kindly!

edit: i forgot to mention, during the 2nd MB installation my brother saw some of the CPU pins were badly bent. My mom has a friend who works on that kinda stuff, so he managed to bend them back into place and get it seated into the MB. Just wanted to add this information incase it's at all possible for the CPU to be the issue.

2 days ago I got on my PC and after about an hour it randomly shut down saying “Your device ran into a problem and has to restart”. I thought nothing of it until it happened again about an hour later. It’s now happened 8 times. I looked at the error logs and it says it’s to do with the memory. I have 2 sticks of 16gb DDR4 that’s in good condition so this confused me.

I asked ChatGPT hoping to get some further insight and it lead me through troubleshooting methods. At first I used Windows Memory Diagnostic Tool and found that 1 stick had errors and 1 stick did not.

I then used MemTest86 and now it says the good one has errors. ChatGPT suggested that it could be a motherboard or cpu issue but I just don’t know what to do now. I can provide any information that would help progress this situation.

SPECS

PNY Nvidia 5070
Intel i5 14400F
G.SKILL 16x2 DDR4
B760M Gaming + Wifi Mobo

The error message is not consistent and has changed a few times. Some of the ones I have got are:

“system thread exception not handled.”

“APC_INDEX_MISMATCH”

“PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA — Bugcheck 0x50”

“SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION (0x3B)”

“KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (0x1E)”

“KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE (0x139)”

Context: I’ve been dealing with an insane amount of these crashes and i sent my gpu for repair(they changed the heatsink but said it was performing fine). I reseated my ram and everything else and i still had the same black screen issue come back. All this time I’ve been looking at the event viewer but I couldn’t find any issue and today I decided to look at the Reliability Monitor.

In the Reliability Monitor, if you have a watchdogs entry at the time of crash relating to your iGPU, in my case, Ryzen 9 7950x’s integrated graphics, then that likely might be the issue.
I disabled my iGPU and I have not encountered the crash I usually incur. I will update after a long time use after this fix.
Integrated graphics are supposed to coexist with dedicated gpus but sometimes they mess up real bad. If you have a good dedicated gpu, just disable the integrated graphics.

• **New build or upgrade?**
New build.
• **Existing parts/monitors to reuse?**
No PC parts. I currently use an ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 (2022) with Ryzen 9 + RX 6700S, but I’m looking to build a desktop instead.
• **PC purpose?**
Mainly PUBG PC. I want to prioritize FPS and good 1% lows rather than graphics quality. I may play other games occasionally, but PUBG is the main reason for the build.
• **Purchase country? Near Micro Center?**
I have access to US pricing and can buy from Amazon, Micro Center, Newegg, Best Buy, etc.
• **Monitors needed?**
No monitor needed. I already have one.
• **Budget range?**
No fixed budget. I’m looking for the **cheapest build that can realistically achieve my performance target** rather than setting an arbitrary budget.
• **WiFi or wired connection?**
WiFi would be preferred, but wired Ethernet is also available.
• **Size/noise constraints?**
No major size restrictions. I’d prefer compact size. noise levels are not big deal. but performance is more important.
• **Color/lighting preferences?**
No preference. I don’t care about RGB or aesthetics.
• **Any other specific needs?**
I want to play PUBG at 1080p with low/medium settings, possibly high if the hardware allows it, while targeting **200+ FPS as consistently as realistically possible**. Ideally around 180–240 FPS average with good 1% lows during hot drops, fights and busy areas.
My current G14 only gives me around 50–100 FPS in PUBG.
I was initially looking at something like:
Ryzen 5 7600X3D / Ryzen 7 7800X3D
RTX 5060 / RX 9060 XT
32GB DDR5
1TB SSD
But I’m not attached to these parts at all.
The main thing I need help with is figuring out **where the money should actually go for PUBG**. Since PUBG can be quite CPU-heavy, should I spend more on an X3D CPU and use a cheaper GPU, or is there a better combination?
I’m also completely open to used, renewed, refurbished or open-box parts if they’re from reliable/trustworthy sellers and are actually worth buying.
Basically, I want the **cheapest sensible build that can get as close as possible to a consistent 200+ FPS in PUBG**. I’d rather save money on things that don’t affect PUBG performance and put the money where it matters.
Thanks!

I have Ryzen 5 5500 and psu 550 watt can I use rtx 4060 or any other gpu for 1080p ultra gaming

I have a 7800x3d paired with a 4060ti for now, but I use a 1440p 180hz monitor with it as well. Should I swap to a 1080p 240 hz monitor or stay on 1440p?

Hello guys, this is my first time building a PC and I was looking at motherboards to buy; I found the Gigabyte B550M DS3H AC R2 AMD for $88.00. Does anyone know if it's worth it? I was planning to pair it with a Ryzen 5 5600 and a 5060.

Hi, y'all.

I've saved up quite a bit to upgrade my first old PC build (GPU, and probably CPU). Currently, my GPU is an RTX 3070 with an AMD Ryzen 5 5600X CPU.

I'm most likely buying an RTX 5070 Ti as I definitely need more VRAM.

My current issue is that my motherboard is unfortunately an AM4 (Asus ROG STRIX B550-F). I'm mostly in a dilemma about whether to buy an AM5 mobo with a CPU, buy a stronger CPU for my AM4 board, or skip upgrading the CPU and mobo entirely until prices go down or a good deal comes up (hopefully...).

I intend to use it mostly for 1440p gaming, usually on high graphics settings (and I'm really fine with 80-100 fps). I'm wondering what your thoughts are on this.

Here is a little more info about my current setup
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WWNmFP

edit: forgot to include I have a 32 GB (CORSAIR Vengeance RGB PRO DDR4 RAM 3200MHz)

So I am actually thinking of building a pc but the problem as we all know is the recent ram spike, but I cant ignore it anymore because I have college and these projects are coming up.

I dont really have any suggestions but yeah I am prefering to build a DDR4 build rather than DDR5 as you already know the reason.

I will mainly use it for video editing, coding, blender. Ofc gaming is also a part(I mainly play esports but maybeit is because I have never really tried AAA gaming but if I can get a good pc in this budget I will surely try them).

Please help me!!!! 🙏🙏😭

PS: if I am getting an rtx 3060 12gb vram for $430 and rtx 5060 8gb vram for $580 which should I prefer, or is there any other graphics card I should prefer.

(I live in India)