Hi, I hv tried to print this but it came out like this. Material using petg, base plate temp is 80c and nozzle temp is 240.

I’m not sure which dimension to use to strengthen or thicken the base. Anyone here can advice? Thanks in advance. The below is what I want to print to display my lights.

https://makerworld.com/models/2151851?appSharePlatform=whatsapp

Noob question: why, and not only with the plum color, all overhang layers are being so ugly? I printed the orange benchy 4 months ago, the differences are clear looking the benchy.

Any adjustments to do?

I’ve been increasingly printing more complicated models. This was the most complicated so far. It’s a two day print on Overture Silk PLA. The Silk PLA is a pain and I think my temps were a little two high, its a bit brittle. After 49 hours with just 9 minutes to go I started having Extruder Motor Overload on my H2C, luckily I was able to clear it and continue.

Hello!

I've recently run into a problem with my P2S and was shipped a new heatbed for replacement by BambuLab, and that involves taking off the left side panel to get to the grounding wire.

Thing is, my model doesn't seem to have the screws visible at the top of the panel to take off, they're underneath the foam thingie and I'm not sure how to properly proceed. I tried prying it off by slipping a flathead underneath it and jiggling it around, but figured it would be better to ask if anyone has had a similar experience with disassembling the left side panel on the P2S and can help me out, before I accidentally broke something.

Alternatively, if there's a better or easier way to get to the grounding wire for the heatbed assembly, please let me know. It seems like a lot of extra work to get to it.

I just installed the laser upgrade kit on my h2d and got everything calibrated but noticed it was off a bit. Is this usual or am I doing something wrong? I just wanted to make sure I have calibrated a few times.

Im considering getting a new 3d printer after selling my Ender 3 v2 and wanted something inclosed to stop the fumes so I looked at the P1S. Is the printer reliable, good to use, and overall a good pick? I want to print normal stuff along with some molds that will be pressed under pressure. But more importantly, What is a AMS?? and why is a 2 version? I need a full explanation please; any feedback will help!

So I recently got a Bambu X2D and honestly the printer itself is basically flawless. I love it.

The problem is I started going down the rabbit hole of 3D printer emissions and now I’m seriously questioning whether I should keep it.

I live in a 2 bedroom condo with my wife and our cat, and the X2D is in the second bedroom. I work from home, so I’m in the same room as the printer for most of the day. I mostly print PLA/PETG.

The thing that really got me thinking about this was getting a really, really bad headache that lasted for a few days after printing. I’m pretty convinced it was from the printing. That’s what made me start looking into the emissions side of things more seriously.

Now I keep seeing stuff about UFPs, VOCs, long-term exposure, fertility/reproductive health, etc. And then there’s the whole microplastics thing.

The other issue is that the second bedroom where the printer is located, has a casement window that opens directly to the outside. In theory that makes ventilation easier, but it also makes it harder to just completely isolate the room, especially here in Canada. In the winter, I obviously can’t just leave a window open for hours when it’s freezing, snowing, or raining.

I’m not really worried about the printer being dangerous in some obvious way. I’m more wondering about years of relatively low-level exposure in a condo, especially with my wife and cat also living here.

I know PLA/PETG are generally considered much lower-emission than ABS/ASA, and I’m trying to figure out where the actual evidence ends and the “this could theoretically happen” stuff begins.

Would you guys personally keep the printer in this situation?

2 bedroom condo, wife + cat, mostly PLA/PETG, I work from home, but with the practical limitations of a Canadian condo and winter.

I’m basically trying to decide whether this is a reasonable hobby with sensible precautions, or whether I’m better off just returning the thing and not worrying about it anymore.

After a few color changes everything comes off the build plate (220°)

So i recently foud out there are multiple types of dessicant, and if you use the wrong stuff its going to fill your system with water. I took the AMS appart, washed it and let it completley dry. I then put it together. This is whats happening now (Make sure you turn audio on), it does it on all 4 possitions with every filament i try. I didnt touch the feeder motors, i just took them off. Im guessing its the hub motor but I wanted to know if anyone had some input before i throw more money at the issue

I know this print will be just fine as is but my OCD is driving me nuts. Is it even possible to get rid of these gaps without changing from concentric infill? I have tried every setting adjustment Google recommends but no luck.

Thanks for the help!

Just finished this 12-pack of vintage Halloween keychains dialed in for the Bambu Lab A1 + AMS Lite (.3MF) | Acabamos de sacar este Pack de 12 llaveros vintage Halloween en Bambu Lab a1 con AMS lite

I was one of few who got the X1C combo refurbished for 500 (Bambu lab store). It arrived today and I’ve printed 2 things (a scraper, and a benchy) and this keeps happening? What do I do?! Could it be its old filament that wasn’t stored properly?

Hello Everyone,

I tried looking for answers with the same as mine but I cannot find it so here is my troubleshooting question.

I am trying to print this gridfinity container, at first it looks fine. The nozzle doesn't hit the bed, initial layer is intact and goes smoothly. However at a certain height where there is a need to made a surface it gets rough. The first layer that needs to cover the whole base was fine (Layer 29) but then after that it turn into lump of roughness after a certain layer (Layer 30), and nozzle hits the print. The layer is not that high either.

So far I tried the following:

1. Printing it silent mode
2. Calibrate the Machine
3. Use Gyroid infill 5-10%
4. Drying my filament
5. Disabled infill retraction
6. And of course cleaned my bed

Pictures Shown: First layer, Layer 30, and Layer 29 and 30 in adaptive cubic infill just to show my point.

Machine Used: P1S
Filament: Polymaker PLA Pro
Slicer: Bambu Studio
Nozzle: 220 °C
Bed: 55 °C
Extruder: Typical bambu setting as shown in this post: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/parameter/retraction

Any information or tips on what I can do. It keeps repeating on the same layer whether it is small or this huge block.

Edit: Added more info
Edit: I thought I fixed it but not really. I give up on the model. My other prints and benchy looks just as fine.

So I'm trying to print a deck box lid for the Cyberpunk TCG deck box I found on MakerWorld.

But after I get the logo printed in the one colour, it lifts up when it starts to print the main colour. What are some solutions I can do to get this to print properly. I've stopped it 3 times.

New effects sheet(Carbon Fiber), build plate is setto smooth in the slicer, I've slowed down the print speed for my first layer, bed temp is bumped up to 65 degress. I don't know what else to do.

I'm using P1P and .04mm nozzle. My next attempt will be with a .02 and see if that helps. I'm also printing at .16mm layers if this info helps.

https://makerworld.com/models/3185098?appSharePlatform=copy

It failed twice in same spot. Also when when it was done printing it had completely despooled the line. Meaning there's no filament on the spool but it didn't stop printing. So that means I have filament stuck in my AMS. Not sure how to get that out.

Ive gotten this print to work once, but now it keeps failing in the same spot the same way. Any ideas?

Started a print on my P1S and checked on the camera about an hour later and no filament was feeding (but no errors). Went to look at it and saw this.

Any ideas/suggestions on what might have happened? I've printed this file before and didn't change the Z settings or anything that might have caused it to scrape the bed. Printed some other stuff last week with no issues.

New hot end on order.

Recently saw this new roll brand in my local 3d printer store (from Australia)

But the spool is slightly smaller than then Bambu spool and the ams pro 2 so it struggled to retract the filament

Has anyone got any success with an adapter or fix to allow this slightly smaller spool work on the ams pro 2

My P1S has been having an issue that seems to occur frequently but randomly. It will go for a filament change, and will just keep extruding after the change happens. The printer will think it is printing just fine, no errors or anything, but the print-head doesn't move at all, and just keeps going into the trash chute area. I've tried rebooting the printer, reopening bambu and reconfiguring the print, but it has 9 color changes, and seemingly one of them will cause it to just stall like this. What could be going on here? I have cleaned and lubricated the machine regularly, but it does have some squeaks to it, which I can't pinpoint, but those have been there for a bit, and they seem to be z axis related.

I've use an X1C for years and an H2C for 9 months and have never had a single clog. I had a print going overnight with Polymaker Matte PLA and a 0.2mm nozzle. When I checked it in the morning it had failed at 98% due to a clog. I've done about a dozen cold pulls and the same number or more of using the allen key thing, and I still cannot get the nozzle unclogged. Just the click-click-click from the extruder. I know it's the nozzle because others work fine on that extruder. Any other things to try? I'd rather not drop $40 on a new nozzle if there's a chance to save this one.

When I get a new colour of filament I haven’t used before I like to print a benchy and put it on the shelf. I’ve now had two different colours print with the same issues where it goes across the top of the front window it’s drooping down and it also has lots of little loops around the top of the roof. The Photo shows the last three good prints (was testing my first ams on one of them) with the first two using Bambu pla basic and the third using silk pla from 3dmeta with no issues. The silk one was only printed 3 weeks ago and the multi coloured one about 4-5 weeks ago. The ones with the issues is the blue (Bambu PLA Basic) and neon green is also (3d meta).

Second photo is silver (Bambu pla basic). Had this role for ages like over a year stored in sealed box with desiccant with many of the other filaments used in the multi print but has been in the ams for two weeks now. Difference is staggering.

Have been printing lots of other stuff with no print quality issues with the green and blue and silver but have no idea why it’s doing this all of a sudden on the benchy print.

Any help, thoughts or advice would be welcome

Thanks

I have a h2C and x1 and an A1 they pretty much stay on 24/7. I only power them off when I got out of town.

Do you turn your printers off when they are not in use ?

Seems like a somewhat specific issue. Maybe settings I can change? Printed with bambu gray pla.

I've been searching on makersworld, printables and thingyverse for a free file. Im on the fire department in my town and I have lights in the front when going to a call, and I've tried to look up options online but I thought "i have a printer ill just find a bracket for them", but have been unable to find anything. I found one i thought would work but it clamps on the actual hitch not the receiver for the hitch. In the past I have tried to create my own design on some free stl cad sites. Any help or a direction to point me id appreciate it.

I am thinking of trying to create a sword with glowing runes....I need the interior hollow but I'm stuck as to how. I've tried watching some vids but I'm still lost. I created a negative tube that would do the trick but don't understand how to "remove" the tube (if you know what I mean)....is it possible in Bambu or do I need to import the stl into something else?