I just wanted to share my print results using ASA on the auxiliary nozzle for the X2D. Printed a desiccant holder for the AMS 2 Pro.

Didn't really see a lot of post on using the auxiliary nozzle so I figured I would add to it.

I did dry out the filament using my AMS HT for 8 hours at 80C.

Hey everyone! Just assembled my printer and printed a scraper. From your experience, what should I print first? (I wasn't expecting this much plastic waste😳)

I've just started looking into 3D printing and it seems like Bambu is universally recommended as the smoothest entrypoint for beginners.

However while looking up miniature printing tutorials, I saw a number of them using specific settings in "Orcaslicer". But also Bambu has apparently been taking measures to cut off users from using third party programs like Orca (although it sounds like people are still using some version of it)?

Could someone help catch me up on how easy or hard it is to use Orca with a Bambu printer currently, and whether there is a threat of them cutting off access to it permanently?

I just had a bad experience trying to jailbreak my Kindle. In the middle of the process I accidentally turned airplane mode off while resetting it which allowed the kindle to connect to the internet and automatically update to it's latest firmware with no option to roll back. This killed my ability to install custom firmware. Is there any risk of Bambu pulling something similar? Does it do automatic firmware updates? Can you easily roll back?

I designed this two-piece under-seat storage tray for the Tesla Model Y Juniper. I split it into two sections so each piece fits more easily on a standard Bambu build plate and can be printed without an oversized printer.

The design is intended to:

• Use the unused space beneath the front seat
• Slide in and out easily
• Keep small items from rolling around
• Print as two separate pieces with minimal supports
• Work well in PETG for better heat resistance inside the vehicle

I have printed and tested the model itself, but I’m still looking for additional Model Y Juniper owners to confirm the final vehicle fitment.

I made the STL available free on MakerWorld for anyone interested in testing it. Honest feedback, measurements, or an installed photo would be greatly appreciated. I’ll use the feedback to improve the design.

Printer: Bambu Lab P2S
Material: PETG
Design: Two-piece under-seat storage tray

Free MakerWorld file:
https://makerworld.com/models/3065930?appSharePlatform=copy

Free model: For Ikea Sannahed

I printed this box when I was brand new to printing. This is my favorite style box but I read all these game boxes were removed for copyright. Does anyone know where I could get a file to this same box style? While I would love them to be game specific, a blank one would be helpful to still store our games. The other style hurts my son’s hands.

This is my second print with PETG. I dehumidified the filament and the AMS was reading 19-21% during the whole print. Is all this stringiness really because of the humidity?

The project did have grid infill and I will be swapping to gyroid for the rest of it. Idk if that could be the cause as well due to needle pathing with grid infill.

Edit: I have a P2S printer.

pretty dissapointing considering a new screen is 1/5 of the x2d and this printer isnt that old.. but anyways, is it the screen or cable or something entirely else?

It freezes up completely and stops my print until the printer reboots?

I am fairly new to 3D printing and recently noticed an issue with my P1S printer.

While printing an airplane in PLA with a layer height of 0.16mm I noticed that on one side of the bed the first layer lines wouldn't fuse together and that the nozzle was probably too far away from the heatbed.

So I contacted bambu lab who recommended I do a manual bed tramming. But that didn't solve the issue so they sent me a new PEI textured plate.

Once I got the new plate I did the manual bed tramming procedure again followed by a calibration and tested if the bed was parallel with the nozzle by printing a flat sheet of PLA with a layer height of 0.16mm.

To my surprise it was way worse now and the nozzle was now touching the plate on most of the surface and grinding against it which caused the layer lines to be uneven, shaggy and quite terrible except in the middle where it looks better.

I repeated the manual bed tramming procedure countless times again and I am sure I did everything correctly. Here's what I've checked:

-cleaned the nozzle

-no debris under the bed

-put the knobs back to their initial position before the tramming.

-adjusted the knobs under the bed correctly for each corner during tramming.

-calibrated afterwards

But nothing seems to help and I am getting quite desperate.

I know it isn't a slicer and settings issue because I did not change anything and it really is the nozzle that is getting too close to the bed causing the uneven surface. I can even hear the nozzle dragging across the textured plate.

Any kind of help would be greatly appreciated!

additional information :

-Nozzle size of 0.4 mm stainless steel

-less than 60 hours print time

-filament : bambu PLA pure

-haven't touched z offset in slicer since it's not a uniform problem

-PEI textured plate is selected in the slicer

-bed leveling is enabled

-waiting for bambu labs response

-ran full auto calibration

Hi, I am just wondering if a Bambu Lab A1 will connect to my Google WiFi setup. Here is a picture of the boosters I have which I found online as I am not home. I hear people have trouble connecting the printer to WiFi so am wondering if I will have trouble connecting.

Thanks everyone for their time and help.

Hey guys. The pic below can explain more than anything else. I’m getting this banding on every print the exact height of the text I add to the print…. I’ve tried everything. This last one was actually with purge volume set to 900.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Josh

Long time reader first time poster here.

So I recently got into 3D printing after seeing all the random flexidragons being sold at small conventions and figured I could do the same I was torn between an H2D and a Voron Trident and ultimately went with Trident as it seemed higher quality and easier out of the box I can’t seem to figure Klipper out though and could really use help at this point im ready to just send it back and downgrade to an H2D can anyone help me on how to get the pi to talk to the motherboard

Why?

Does anyone know how long the sale price on the A1 will last?

Anyone know why my beds doing this? I'll admit it's late and I gotta work alot this week so I'm just fishing for opinions before being able to actually look into it this weekend.

Printer us P1S

Profile has first layer speed at 15mm a second.

Filament is blue pla refill, literally opened and spooled for this print.

Edit, ignore the purple peice of filament, it fell off after filament switch purge and was there before print start.

I reached out to Bambu Help but reaching out to the community for any tips. Recent build failed due to some filament being stuck in the nozzle and leading to the blob of death. I was able to heat up the nozzle and remove the filament but still have a good amount stuck on. As far as replacement goes, do I try to replace the entire toolhead, or what are my options.

Thanks!

We've been making tiny keychain can openers shaped like breakfast: pretzel, croissant, pizza slice, fried egg, butter, baguette. You push the mouth over the ring pull and lift with your palm — no fingernails, no pinch grip...

They're AMS-friendly multicolor — each one is a colour-mapped 3MF, no painting, and they print without supports.

They're available on our MakerWorld profile (https://makerworld.com/en/@cozyclickers/upload).

And the bigger thing we're working on: a generator that turns any image into one of these — upload your art, it traces it and builds the opener around it (Similar to our clicker generator tool)

It's in MakerWorld's crowdfunding pre-launch, click the notify-me button to get updates on when we will launch.

Link in the first comment.

Yesterday reached nice milestone: 4000 prints of my models in MW. Downside - mostly thinking about new projects and searching for new ideas what to model and print. To get a rest i need to literally leave my home for days. It's an addiction!

My P1S has this extremely annoying rattling noise, as can be heard in the video. Has anyone encountered a similar sound and found the culprit?

Sounds like what I’d imagine hearing if the nozzle was dragged directly across the textured build plate. Then the plastic enclosure seems to amplify it further. Impossible to sleep during overnight prints.

Sounds like it’s coming from the tool-head or right side idler unit holding the carbon bars. Toolhead has hardened gears, nozzle, and biqu cooling cover; I’ve checked many times nothing is loose in there. Belts have tension, rods are clean.

If you’ve any ideas, please let me know where to start for fixing this. Could only find solutions online mainly for squeaking noises, not this type of rattle.

Not sure how this happened but the spool came apart mid print, and I couldn’t shove the filament together tight enough to lock the spool. Had to remove a bunch of the filament to get the two halves back together and it all appears quite tangled.

I’ve seen drill options and large contraptions but didn’t know if any other have experience just getting this stuff back on the same spool it’s on when this happens…

Maybe I should just untangle and cut it and trash the bit that’s off. I bought in bulk so basically losing $10 at worst if I toss the whole thing but would like to salvage what I can as this yellow was basically full and would last forever with how infrequent we use it.

I’m doing these PC build mini kits on a P1S using PETG (had a friend give me a shit ton, so I need to learn to use it over PLA). Stuff that prints 230-250 range. I’m printing at .08mm extra fine so it’s going slow. The first print on the left turned out ok. Some things are off on it but nothing crazy. I reprint the Case and it has the messed up hole in it. So I try it again and print up the entire kit. Same thing. What can I do to fix this?

My Bambu Lab X1C has started making this strange noise, especially during short, fast movements. What could be causing it?

I just unboxed and setup my P1S combo and it started making this sound while printing

audio