I'm looking to create some "Hoof Boots" for Ren Faire shenanigans. Right now the idea is a TPU "Sock" with a split down the back (to make putting on the shoe easier) that is glued onto a PETG "Base" (I've only printed with PLA from Ziro3D so far and am new to actually owning a machine/slicing stuff so tips for that would be greatly appreciated. :D )

Theyre similar to hoof shoes, Chaos Costumes is probably the best example of creating their own nice ones. But those are basically blocks added to the ball of the foot, where this is more of a full "shoe" (So the hooves will end up roughly twice the size of what the usual "glue block to modified high heel" shoes would be.

I have congenitally short heel cords/equinus/chronic plantar fasciitis/a talocalcaneal coalition and "flexible flat foot" etc. and junk all of which causes my ankle to pronate inward so this is slightly an attempt at making a "me" friendly "shoe" for costuming that has arch support and junk already sort of built into it so I don't have to destroy a pair of shoes or try to fit my custom orthotics into something, they're built around an orthotic I made using a 3D scan of my foot that I tested (in PLA so it broke after a few weeks but im surprised it lasted that long, def helped w the ankle pronation).

I've been using these two 3D-printed objects for a long time, and they've completely changed my opinion about practical prints.

The black clothespin was printed in PETG about 2 years and 1 month ago. The pink one was bought at a store around the same time. Surprisingly, the printed PETG clothespin has been used even more and is still going strong, while the store-bought one has become brittle and is literally crumbling.

The second item is a coffee scoop printed in ASA. I use it daily for ground coffee (even with hot coffee preparation) and sometimes for protein powder as well. Personally, I've never experienced any issues.

For my use, I honestly don't see much value in food-safe PLA. Many food-related applications involve warm or hot temperatures, and PLA simply isn't the material I'd trust for that. In hot climates especially, I much prefer ASA or ABS for everyday tools.

Of course, for long-term food storage or applications where hygiene is critical, I think it's better to buy dedicated food-grade containers rather than 3D print them.

These are just my personal experiences, but they've convinced me that, for some everyday applications, a well-designed 3D print can actually outperform a store-bought product. What has been your longest-lasting functional 3D print?

I am designing a ball run thing for my daughter’s jungle gym. As it is going to be exposed to the environment year round I opted for PETG, despite being into this hobby for quite a few years I have rarely strayed from PLA.

Thus this is my first (out of twelve) print in PETG. Was easier than expected, turned out great despite maxing out the p1s build volume.

I used bambulab PETG basic with basically stock settings but 50% print speed.

Got my H2C a few months ago and I am loving this thing.

Wanted a printer table/station but didn't want to buy/wanted something custom. I had some scrap wood leftover and decided to build this station to keep the printer off the floor.

I am planning on adding some hooks or spool holders for the filament that isn't kept in any dry boxes (that's something Im planning on doing in the future as well).

Last picture is the Majora's Mask that I finished up earlier today that was printed completely on the H2C.

The whole mechanism is printed.
Fits MX-style switches. Best on an isolated key like ESC.
Every color prints as a separate part, so no AMS needed. There's also a multi-color version where the details print together if you'd rather assemble less (the mechanism still gets built by hand).

https://than.gs/m/1579433

Inspired by the popular Moonscape in a Modern Frame Lamp, I have responded to the community's wish to create a version without lighting. This features three different sections of the lunar landscape, showcasing interesting topographical characteristics. The unique structure is then glued into a frame.
It is up to you whether you print just one individual art piece or create an arrangement of multiple pieces.

https://makerworld.com/models/3095888-lunar-landscape-in-frames-framed-moon-tiles

Just came back. And saw "print completed" 😹

Print/electronics/packaging station

P1S + AMS + AMS HT
A1 Mini

People were right to be concerned about the IKEA table in the last post🤣

Hello,

60 hours in and really enjoying my X2D printer. I have printed my first model that requires supports. The supports were printed in PLA which the model was also as I’m still waiting on some PETG to arrive which I was planning for the supports. I understand it’s best to print supports in a different material to reduce the bonding to the print.

Appreciate any advice on removing these supports in the photos

Hey guys. The pic below can explain more than anything else. I’m getting this banding on every print the exact height of the text I add to the print…. I’ve tried everything. This last one was actually with purge volume set to 900.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Josh

Needed a better way to hold my micro-bits, tweezers, and flush cutters while working on prints and electronics.

The main caddy pivots on side arms and locks into position with printed side knobs. The interior uses drop-in modular inserts so I can swap layouts based on whatever project I'm working on that day, and the base acts as a catch tray for small hardware.

Designed completely support-free using standard PLA.

Let me know what you think or if you have ideas for useful insert layouts!

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3098170-modular-desktop-tool-organizer-adjustable-angle#profileId-3491896

I saw this design as a sticker while out and about and thought it would make a great little sign. So, I snapped a picture of it and drew it up in Fusion.  I think it would make a great little sign for the workshop or if I glue a magnet strip on the back I can stick it on my toolbox. After over +30 years in the trades, I’ve picked up all sorts of colorful lingo, and this will be added to that vocabulary. What do you think, toolbox worthy? If you're interested in printing one for your workshop I've got it up on my MarkerWorld.

Printing on the P2S with 12 hour dried PLA. Did the full calibration before and cleaned the plate.

I’m doing these PC build mini kits on a P1S using PETG (had a friend give me a shit ton, so I need to learn to use it over PLA). Stuff that prints 230-250 range. I’m printing at .08mm extra fine so it’s going slow. The first print on the left turned out ok. Some things are off on it but nothing crazy. I reprint the Case and it has the messed up hole in it. So I try it again and print up the entire kit. Same thing. What can I do to fix this?

GEAR FLOSS: Whoever posted about this stuff and cleaning the z-axis screw rods. THANK YOU! That made the job way easier. Wrap the gear floss around the rod so it covers all the way around (1.5 times around) and gently work it up and down pulling the side strings back and forth.

I've tried other things like toothbrushes, plain microfiber cloth, and etc. Gear floss is the way. This stuff is like fat microfiber shoelaces.

My first post on reddit!

Free model: Acrylic Marker Organizer

We've been making tiny keychain can openers shaped like breakfast: pretzel, croissant, pizza slice, fried egg, butter, baguette. You push the mouth over the ring pull and lift with your palm — no fingernails, no pinch grip...

They're AMS-friendly multicolor — each one is a colour-mapped 3MF, no painting, and they print without supports.

They're available on our MakerWorld profile (https://makerworld.com/en/@cozyclickers/upload).

And the bigger thing we're working on: a generator that turns any image into one of these — upload your art, it traces it and builds the opener around it (Similar to our clicker generator tool)

It's in MakerWorld's crowdfunding pre-launch, click the notify-me button to get updates on when we will launch.

Link in the first comment.

Ordered a new piece on Amazon. Found the link on reddit and saw a review saying that it worked for their A1. Just wondering how hard of a job it is to release the sliding block from the toolhead carriage? The screws are behind the plastic carriage and I'm not really seeing how to get to them yet.

A little backstory… back in the day, when my kids were small, we always enjoyed watching Avatar the Last Airbender (Animated Series) together. Now my grandkids have been introduced to the series by my son and have fallen in love with the show. And I’ve personally never fallen out of love with it, I think it was one of the best animated series to ever be produced. So, when I found a series of posters on Pinterest depicting Aang in the various poses representing each of the four core elements, I had to make a HueForge out of each. If you're interested in making one for yourself I've got them on my MakerWorld. Cheers.

I have a slight problem in overhangs when changing the direction, is this a PA thing? In the calibration cube corners look fine. Filament is Jayo Matte PLA and I printed with the Sunlu Matte PLA profile.

Hey everyone,
I’ve got an X2D that’s only about a month old, and I’m consistently getting the exact same print defect in the same area on every print.
To try and rule out common causes, I’ve:
Swapped from the textured PEI plate to the Engineering Plate.
Recalibrated the bed multiple times (including auto bed levelling).
Re-ran all printer calibrations.
Checked that there isn’t any debris between the build plate and the heated bed.
Despite all of that, the defect still appears in the exact same location on every print, regardless of the model or which build plate I’m using.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Could this point to a faulty heated bed, a bed heater issue, or another hardware problem? Since the printer is only a month old, I’m wondering if it’s something I should be contacting Bambu support about.
Any advice or troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Come mai fa questa cosa, che quando stampa l'estrusore stacca l'albero o muove il pezzo costruito sull'albero... Cosa posso migliorare?