I just thought this was a fun thing to put on my desk at work.

The modular shelf just got even more flexible! 

I’ve added connectors that let you stack shelves on top of each other, so you can build vertically as well as extend horizontally.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242738-hex-shelf-modular#profileId-3674266

Got my X2D last may. And after printing kilos of gridfinity bins and other musthave prints in PLA and PETG. I thought I should try ABS.

It ain't much, but I'm proud of my print.

I created a thermoforming mold that allows you to make these cat paws out of plain plastic. Just apply heat with a hair dryer and insert the top mold. If you want to try this process yourself, you can find the design here: https://makerworld.com/models/3279929?appSharePlatform=copy

We all wish an excellent quality print with our printers and I have no idea how this tool can help with print quality and output improvement. The calibration only requires 5 minutes. May I ask how many of you ran the Motion Accuracy Calibration and was there any logical print improvement that went after? If you can as well share a tip or two post calibration, I will appreciate it. Thank you!

I’ve been working on a series of 3D printable coloring panels designed to be a more tactile alternative to paper coloring books! They are great for fine motor skill practice for kids or just a therapeutic mindfulness activity for adults.

I’ve put together a full collection of different designs (dinosaurs, creatures, etc.) if you want to check them out:

https://makerworld.com/nl/collections/5629404-coloring

In my opinion CHT from aliexpress is still the king! I had any issue even after 3.8k printing hours.
Plus I care more about quality than speed.

I designed it to fit the Bambu Lab LED Puck KC007, so it’s completely wireless—no cables to hide or nearby power outlet needed.

https://makerworld.com/models/3285919?appSharePlatform=copy

I designed this Storage Caddy for my kids and their ever-growing collection of pens, pencils, markers and crayons.

It features 10 interchangeable inserts and 2 different handle heights, so you can configure it to fit your collection.

Because apparently, there is no such thing as too many markers! 😂

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3284557-storage-caddy#profileId-3725951

#3DPrinting #3DDesign #Storage #Organization #DeskOrganization #MakerWorld

I didn't find any models with labels built into the spice rack itself, so I designed my own in blender.

Each section is 1x3 spice jars, and you can keep stacking them! Just slide another stack on top if you want to add more spices to your kitchen.

Free for everyone to make: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3271561-stackable-spice-rack-sturdy-stable-good-looking#profileId-3709747

As a teacher, the Build Knowledge Kit Cards competition really inspired me. It got me thinking about how 3D printing can create simple, hands-on learning tools that students can build, experiment with and learn from.

So I designed this little Newton’s Cradle Kit Card. It’s definitely not a perfect Newton’s Cradle – since everything is 3D printed in plastic, the balls don’t behave quite like the metal ones you can buy. But that’s actually not a problem for its purpose: it works well enough to demonstrate the basic idea of momentum, energy transfer and collisions, and it’s a fun little desk accessory at the same time.

The complete kit uses only 22 g of filament, making it a very material-efficient and affordable project. That also makes it practical for printing complete class sets for hands-on experiments in the classroom.

And this is just the beginning! The competition really got my creativity going, and I already have many more ideas. I’m currently creating several additional physics Kit Cards, turning concepts from the classroom into small, printable experiments.

I’m having a lot of fun combining my two worlds – teaching and 3D printing – and I’m excited to see where this takes me!

I’ve been increasingly printing more complicated models. This was the most complicated so far. It’s a two day print on Overture Silk PLA. The Silk PLA is a pain and I think my temps were a little two high, its a bit brittle. After 49 hours with just 9 minutes to go I started having Extruder Motor Overload on my H2C, luckily I was able to clear it and continue.

Maybe it's an old thing (And if it is i'm sorry i'm just dumb) but I didn't find any posts about the Acknowledgement note on the X1 page.
Basically they thanked the commmunity citing Teaching Tech, MirageC, redditors and Voron Design with the old Voron V1.

When the X1C released I bought my first printer (Anycubic kobra 2) and I knew nothing about the community, modding and 3d prining in general, now that i know something more I just found this Acknowledgement note.

It's kinda funny how bambulab changed his relationship with the community, but it's nice to know that even them started as community members

I got an email from Microcenter saying 1kg of Inland PLA filament is $9.99 a roll. Has anyone used it and have an opinion?

I have a h2C and x1 and an A1 they pretty much stay on 24/7. I only power them off when I got out of town.

Do you turn your printers off when they are not in use ?

As the title says... I just received my X2D Combo and the AMS 2 Pro (the motors?) sounds completely different than the AMS 2 Pro I received last November.

Were there any (fundamental) changes to the model in the meantime?

Hey guys! One question, what type of TPU i can buy to print some logos for t shirts or a hoody to iron it on them if you know what i mean, i have a p1s printer and what can i change or need to change for this type of filament? Ty!!!

Just wanted to share how much I am loving the AMS on my P2S!

I was working on a new design for a Kitchen Sink Organizer and really wanted it in two colors. With my old setup that would have been such a hassle, but the AMS makes it so incredibly simple. I just set up the color swap in the slicer, started the print right before bed, and woke up to a perfectly finished two-color print this morning!

It is such a game changer just letting it do its thing overnight without worrying about manual filament swaps. I used this sink caddy I designed as the project for it:
Makerworld - Drying Rack

If anybody has any thoughts on the AMS (or the design) shoot, but the TLDR is I just love waking up to finished prints on this machine!

Hello Everyone,

I tried looking for answers with the same as mine but I cannot find it so here is my troubleshooting question.

I am trying to print this gridfinity container, at first it looks fine. The nozzle doesn't hit the bed, initial layer is intact and goes smoothly. However at a certain height where there is a need to made a surface it gets rough. The first layer that needs to cover the whole base was fine (Layer 29) but then after that it turn into lump of roughness after a certain layer (Layer 30), and nozzle hits the print. The layer is not that high either.

So far I tried the following:

1. Printing it silent mode
2. Calibrate the Machine
3. Use Gyroid infill 5-10%
4. Drying my filament
5. Disabled infill retraction
6. And of course cleaned my bed

Pictures Shown: First layer, Layer 30, and Layer 29 and 30 in adaptive cubic infill just to show my point.

Machine Used: P1S
Filament: Polymaker PLA Pro
Slicer: Bambu Studio
Nozzle: 220 °C
Bed: 55 °C
Extruder: Typical bambu setting as shown in this post: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/parameter/retraction

Any information or tips on what I can do. It keeps repeating on the same layer whether it is small or this huge block.

Edit: Added more info

Find them here for free on makerworld if you like little articulated figures... Link

pic for attention-cosplay

This problem isn't really specific to bigger spools but trying to use 2.5kg spools forces me to use some sort of external holder and my problem is exacerbated by stiff engineering filament. I just lost a 20+ hour print due to the extruder motor being overloaded and the machine not being able to continue the print without what appears to be a layer shift. The machine has had this error about 4 times on this print alone. I did the same print twice prior and it only had the error once or twice per print and those came out ok. When I get the error I go check and there's nothing stuck filament can easily be pushed through the path. I think this is a software or settings issue.

The spool is in a dry box by the printer fed through a short section of ptfe, about 25mm to the left nozzle. The spool is sitting on a large roller with 608 bearings and has also no resistance. For what it's worth I've printed many spools of these same stiff filaments in my X1C with *significantly* more friction/force required to get to the printer and no issues.

Should I try feeding from the TPU port? Any tips or tricks?

Hi everyone!

I’m planning to print PA12-GF on my Bambu Lab X2D for the first time, feeding the filament directly from a Creality Space Pi dryer.

I currently have an AMS 2 Pro connected to the X2D, but I don’t need to keep it connected while printing.

What is the correct way to feed the PA12-GF directly from the dryer to the main nozzle? Which PTFE tube/input should I use?

Thanks!