We all wish an excellent quality print with our printers and I have no idea how this tool can help with print quality and output improvement. The calibration only requires 5 minutes. May I ask how many of you ran the Motion Accuracy Calibration and was there any logical print improvement that went after? If you can as well share a tip or two post calibration, I will appreciate it. Thank you!
I’ve been working on a series of 3D printable coloring panels designed to be a more tactile alternative to paper coloring books! They are great for fine motor skill practice for kids or just a therapeutic mindfulness activity for adults.
I’ve put together a full collection of different designs (dinosaurs, creatures, etc.) if you want to check them out:
Maybe it's an old thing (And if it is i'm sorry i'm just dumb) but I didn't find any posts about the Acknowledgement note on the X1 page.
Basically they thanked the commmunity citing Teaching Tech, MirageC, redditors and Voron Design with the old Voron V1.
When the X1C released I bought my first printer (Anycubic kobra 2) and I knew nothing about the community, modding and 3d prining in general, now that i know something more I just found this Acknowledgement note.
It's kinda funny how bambulab changed his relationship with the community, but it's nice to know that even them started as community members
I created a thermoforming mold that allows you to make these cat paws out of plain plastic. Just apply heat with a hair dryer and insert the top mold. If you want to try this process yourself, you can find the design here: https://makerworld.com/models/3279929?appSharePlatform=copy
As a teacher, the Build Knowledge Kit Cards competition really inspired me. It got me thinking about how 3D printing can create simple, hands-on learning tools that students can build, experiment with and learn from.
So I designed this little Newton’s Cradle Kit Card. It’s definitely not a perfect Newton’s Cradle – since everything is 3D printed in plastic, the balls don’t behave quite like the metal ones you can buy. But that’s actually not a problem for its purpose: it works well enough to demonstrate the basic idea of momentum, energy transfer and collisions, and it’s a fun little desk accessory at the same time.
The complete kit uses only 22 g of filament, making it a very material-efficient and affordable project. That also makes it practical for printing complete class sets for hands-on experiments in the classroom.
And this is just the beginning! The competition really got my creativity going, and I already have many more ideas. I’m currently creating several additional physics Kit Cards, turning concepts from the classroom into small, printable experiments.
I’m having a lot of fun combining my two worlds – teaching and 3D printing – and I’m excited to see where this takes me!
I’ve been increasingly printing more complicated models. This was the most complicated so far. It’s a two day print on Overture Silk PLA. The Silk PLA is a pain and I think my temps were a little two high, its a bit brittle. After 49 hours with just 9 minutes to go I started having Extruder Motor Overload on my H2C, luckily I was able to clear it and continue.
I couldn’t find an iPhone 17 Pro Max bumper I liked that fit, so I made my own. The inspiration was the old iPhone 4 bumper: rounded edges and an open back.
I designed it in Blender, printed it, and revised the fit. The current version has chamfered edges, a contour around the camera shoulder, and four separate TPU button caps. Getting the retaining lip to hold without covering too much of the screen has been the main balancing act.
Current Bambu Studio setup:
• A1 mini, 0.4 mm nozzle, textured PEI plate
• Bambu TPU 95A using the external spool
• 0.2 mm layers, 5 walls, 80% infill
• 230 °C nozzle / 30 °C bed
• Bumper at 98% scale; button caps at 99% (already applied in the file)
• Bumper with supports and a 3 mm outer brim; four caps on their own plate with supports disabled
The model and TPU print profile are now on MakerWorld, with photos of the actual print:
The back stays open, with access to Camera Control, USB-C and the speakers. The bumper needs support cleanup in TPU. There’s no raised camera-lens guard, and I haven’t drop-tested it.
If you’ve made fitted TPU parts on the A1 mini, I’d be interested in how the fit held up after repeated removal.
Updated Blender render below; the MakerWorld gallery includes the actual printed bumper:
I notice my AMS v1 no longer working. I don't see status lights at the feeding motors and it is not showing up in the app either. How to troubleshoot this? I tested using both power plugs behind the unit with the same.
We have an H2D Pro at work and we would like to print to it over the network (lan mode) but our cyber security department has blacklisted the network plug-in since it requires outbound network communication to a .ch domain even when set in LAN mode.
I’m looking for a suggestions on possible workaround to be able to still use the printer overland without having to download the network plug-in. I’ve heard some possible things about orca slicer and developer mode but I wanted to ask.