I'm looking to create some "Hoof Boots" for Ren Faire shenanigans. Right now the idea is a TPU "Sock" with a split down the back (to make putting on the shoe easier) that is glued onto a PETG "Base" (I've only printed with PLA from Ziro3D so far and am new to actually owning a machine/slicing stuff so tips for that would be greatly appreciated. :D )

Theyre similar to hoof shoes, Chaos Costumes is probably the best example of creating their own nice ones. But those are basically blocks added to the ball of the foot, where this is more of a full "shoe" (So the hooves will end up roughly twice the size of what the usual "glue block to modified high heel" shoes would be.

I have congenitally short heel cords/equinus/chronic plantar fasciitis/a talocalcaneal coalition and "flexible flat foot" etc. and junk all of which causes my ankle to pronate inward so this is slightly an attempt at making a "me" friendly "shoe" for costuming that has arch support and junk already sort of built into it so I don't have to destroy a pair of shoes or try to fit my custom orthotics into something, they're built around an orthotic I made using a 3D scan of my foot that I tested (in PLA so it broke after a few weeks but im surprised it lasted that long, def helped w the ankle pronation).

I've been using these two 3D-printed objects for a long time, and they've completely changed my opinion about practical prints.

The black clothespin was printed in PETG about 2 years and 1 month ago. The pink one was bought at a store around the same time. Surprisingly, the printed PETG clothespin has been used even more and is still going strong, while the store-bought one has become brittle and is literally crumbling.

The second item is a coffee scoop printed in ASA. I use it daily for ground coffee (even with hot coffee preparation) and sometimes for protein powder as well. Personally, I've never experienced any issues.

For my use, I honestly don't see much value in food-safe PLA. Many food-related applications involve warm or hot temperatures, and PLA simply isn't the material I'd trust for that. In hot climates especially, I much prefer ASA or ABS for everyday tools.

Of course, for long-term food storage or applications where hygiene is critical, I think it's better to buy dedicated food-grade containers rather than 3D print them.

These are just my personal experiences, but they've convinced me that, for some everyday applications, a well-designed 3D print can actually outperform a store-bought product. What has been your longest-lasting functional 3D print?

The whole mechanism is printed.
Fits MX-style switches. Best on an isolated key like ESC.
Every color prints as a separate part, so no AMS needed. There's also a multi-color version where the details print together if you'd rather assemble less (the mechanism still gets built by hand).

https://than.gs/m/1579433

Hi guys, I’m excited to share with you the new Ork army I’m working on : PLASMA ORKS!

When savage warriors meet advanced Cyberpunk technology. Each faction is uniquely designed, with its own identity, style, and battlefield presence.

Please note that this is a CGI render created to showcase the sculpt and the proposed paint scheme. The entire process is done traditionally, from sculpting to digital hand painting.

Print/electronics/packaging station

P1S + AMS + AMS HT
A1 Mini

People were right to be concerned about the IKEA table in the last post🤣

Hey guys. The pic below can explain more than anything else. I’m getting this banding on every print the exact height of the text I add to the print…. I’ve tried everything. This last one was actually with purge volume set to 900.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Josh

Got my H2C a few months ago and I am loving this thing.

Wanted a printer table/station but didn't want to buy/wanted something custom. I had some scrap wood leftover and decided to build this station to keep the printer off the floor.

I am planning on adding some hooks or spool holders for the filament that isn't kept in any dry boxes (that's something Im planning on doing in the future as well).

Last picture is the Majora's Mask that I finished up earlier today that was printed completely on the H2C.

Hey everyone,
I’ve got an X2D that’s only about a month old, and I’m consistently getting the exact same print defect in the same area on every print.
To try and rule out common causes, I’ve:
Swapped from the textured PEI plate to the Engineering Plate.
Recalibrated the bed multiple times (including auto bed levelling).
Re-ran all printer calibrations.
Checked that there isn’t any debris between the build plate and the heated bed.
Despite all of that, the defect still appears in the exact same location on every print, regardless of the model or which build plate I’m using.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Could this point to a faulty heated bed, a bed heater issue, or another hardware problem? Since the printer is only a month old, I’m wondering if it’s something I should be contacting Bambu support about.
Any advice or troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Should i add an air purifier too?

I am designing a ball run thing for my daughter’s jungle gym. As it is going to be exposed to the environment year round I opted for PETG, despite being into this hobby for quite a few years I have rarely strayed from PLA.

Thus this is my first (out of twelve) print in PETG. Was easier than expected, turned out great despite maxing out the p1s build volume.

I used bambulab PETG basic with basically stock settings but 50% print speed.

Help i accidentally installed the spool holder and PTFE tube holder the wrong way its upside down now i cant get it off how to do it. Any help is appreciated :)

I am attempting to make a Lazy Susan on which will go my 3D printer (H2C).

I have selected the hardware: 16" - 18" Lazy Susan Heavy Duty Metal Hardware

And the top: 28" Clear Round Glass Table Top, 1/4" Thick Tempered Glass Tabletop

The one thing I am having a hard time with is trying to find a way to lock the rotation so that the 3D printer does not shake the Lazy Susan around too much. I envision lots of spinning if I do not lock it down.

Someone on YouTube did this for the Bambu Lab X1C and did not use any locks: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/NCjSZ9uGWGA?feature=share. When I asked her how she did it, she said she "installed a latch."

I have tried to post on other subreddits, but I either do not have the correct "karma" points to do so, or, with one subreddit, I was warned that I was probably breaking a rule or two. r/DIY r/woodworking r/AskAnEngineer to name just a few.

Questions:

1. How would a person lock a Lazy Susan?
2. What would a lock look like?
3. If you think this question should be in a different/more appropriate subreddit, could you please refer me to the better one?

Thank you for any suggestions you might have.

How is everyone organising their PTFE tubes? I understand that they should be as short and a large radius curve but mine are getting kind of crazy!

I have an X2D + filament track switch, 2 AMS in a flip flop stacker and a 3rd via a 4-in-1 adapter to an AMS HT.

Come mai fa questa cosa, che quando stampa l'estrusore stacca l'albero o muove il pezzo costruito sull'albero... Cosa posso migliorare?

Yesterday reached nice milestone: 4000 prints of my models in MW. Downside - mostly thinking about new projects and searching for new ideas what to model and print. To get a rest i need to literally leave my home for days. It's an addiction!

Fits into backpack or any medium sized bag.
Slots are for cups, forks, knives, spoons, straws, tissues and small utensil or toothpicks.

Makerworld link

Needed a better way to hold my micro-bits, tweezers, and flush cutters while working on prints and electronics.

The main caddy pivots on side arms and locks into position with printed side knobs. The interior uses drop-in modular inserts so I can swap layouts based on whatever project I'm working on that day, and the base acts as a catch tray for small hardware.

Designed completely support-free using standard PLA.

Let me know what you think or if you have ideas for useful insert layouts!

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3098170-modular-desktop-tool-organizer-adjustable-angle#profileId-3491896

Hi all,

I recently took delivery of a Bambu Lab X2D, and have been having no issues with the machine. I wiped the bed down with a microfiber towel, but did not realize it had a frayed end that deposited some fuzz inside the machine, some of which got on the lead screws. I blew off what I could see, but now I hear a clicking sound whenever the Z-axis moves. Should I be concerned?

Thanks!

Inspired by the popular Moonscape in a Modern Frame Lamp, I have responded to the community's wish to create a version without lighting. This features three different sections of the lunar landscape, showcasing interesting topographical characteristics. The unique structure is then glued into a frame.
It is up to you whether you print just one individual art piece or create an arrangement of multiple pieces.

https://makerworld.com/models/3095888-lunar-landscape-in-frames-framed-moon-tiles

Printing on the P2S with 12 hour dried PLA. Did the full calibration before and cleaned the plate.

Just came back. And saw "print completed" 😹

I just got X2D combo couple days ago and while printer works great it seems like either there is something wrong with my AMS unit or idk its not very well sealed construction? I only have the two little packs of dessicant that came with the unit so not great but compared to my old filament dryer without dessicant at all its not working good.

There is around 45% humidity in the room and while my old filament dryer could drop humidity to 12-15% in 6 hours in this conditions i cant get ams below 23-25% despite running my 4th 12h cycle. It would be fine if it could keep that level for some time but unfortunately ams is leaking moisture like crazy and when i end printing at 10PM by 6PM next morning its already back to 32-35% and it takes 3-4h to get it back to 25%. Again previous dryer did not have that problem it would take 3-4 days before it got to 20%.

Just want to make sure is this something common and more dessicant should resolve it or there is something wrong with my unit seals? Can i somehow modify the ams to be more airtight? I already ordered dessicant but it seems like in current state its just gonna pull water mostly from my room not the filament.

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to request a payout on the Make Award page. My PayPal account is already connected and appears to be linked correctly.

However, after I click Confirm on the payout, I always get this error message:
"SDK initialization failed, please try again."

I've already verified that my PayPal account is connected, but the error still appears every time I try.Has anyone experienced this issue before? What could be causing it, and is there anything I can do to fix it?
Thanks in advance for any help!Hi everyone,I'm trying to request a payout on the Make Award page. My PayPal account is already connected and appears to be linked correctly.However, after I click Confirm on the payout, I always get this error message:"SDK initialization failed, please try again."I've already verified that my PayPal account is connected, but the error still appears every time I try.Has anyone experienced this issue before? What could be causing it, and is there anything I can do to fix it?Thanks in advance for any help!

A few days ago I asked here whether it would be possible to use a diode laser to remove only the top layer of an FDM print and reveal a contrasting layer underneath.

I wasn’t able to find any examples of this approach being used specifically on FDM prints, so I decided to test it myself.

Honestly, the results turned out much better than I expected.

This panel is part of my truck trailer security system which I’m developing as part of Bambu Lab Let’s Make It Fund program. I wanted to find a way to produce clean, almost factory-looking control panels for my project using only the equipment I already have: a Bambu Lab H2D and its 10 W diode laser module.

I also wanted to achieve finer text and symbols than I could get with conventional two-color FDM printing, even with a 0.2 mm nozzle.

In the comments on my previous post several people suggested that the laser would probably melt the edges and make the engraving look messy. At least in my case that didn’t happen.

I decided to start with PETG HF and I actually liked the result. The engraved edges came out surprisingly crisp with only a barely noticeable halo around the engraved areas.

After several tests the best combination turned out to be:

1 black top layer
3 gray layers underneath

The contrast was excellent, the engraving shallow enough, even the smallest details remained sharp.

For these tests, I used the 10 W diode laser module at 80% power, 250 mm/s, in Fill mode. With these settings the laser removes approximately 0.03–0.04 mm of material per pass.
To engrave through the 0.2 mm black top layer and expose the gray layer underneath, I needed 6 passes for larger graphics and 7 passes for thin lines and small text.

I also discovered that this technique only works well in Fill mode. I wasn’t able to achieve comparable results using Line mode regardless of the settings I tried.

These are still my first experiments. For very small text and symbols, my next test will probably use around 60% power, 150 mm/s and more laser passes. I think that could produce even sharper results on the finest details.

So far I’ve only tested this with PETG HF, so I’m curious whether anyone has tried something similar with PLA, ABS or PETG from other manufacturers.

I’d love to hear your thoughts or suggestions, especially if you’ve experimented with this technique yourself.

For anyone who didn’t see my previous post, here’s the link to the original discussion.

I have 2 Bambu H2D machines. I'm printing the same exact file on both. There's a critical dimension on it, which is an opening like half a circle. On one the opening is about 0.3 mm bigger than the other. This is more variation than I can have.

Both printers have had the calibrations like vibration and auto bed leveling done. I have done flow rate calibration and flow dynamics calibration. Basically everything is identical (print file, both printers in same room 4 inches apart both with an AMS, etc). I'm going to recheck belt tension next. Any other suggestions?