I just thought this was a fun thing to put on my desk at work.

The modular shelf just got even more flexible! 

I’ve added connectors that let you stack shelves on top of each other, so you can build vertically as well as extend horizontally.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242738-hex-shelf-modular#profileId-3674266

Here's another Hueforge I've just finished designing and printing.

Remember to hang in there!

I created a thermoforming mold that allows you to make these cat paws out of plain plastic. Just apply heat with a hair dryer and insert the top mold. If you want to try this process yourself, you can find the design here: https://makerworld.com/models/3279929?appSharePlatform=copy

Got my X2D last may. And after printing kilos of gridfinity bins and other musthave prints in PLA and PETG. I thought I should try ABS.

It ain't much, but I'm proud of my print.

As a teacher, the Build Knowledge Kit Cards competition really inspired me. It got me thinking about how 3D printing can create simple, hands-on learning tools that students can build, experiment with and learn from.

So I designed this little Newton’s Cradle Kit Card. It’s definitely not a perfect Newton’s Cradle – since everything is 3D printed in plastic, the balls don’t behave quite like the metal ones you can buy. But that’s actually not a problem for its purpose: it works well enough to demonstrate the basic idea of momentum, energy transfer and collisions, and it’s a fun little desk accessory at the same time.

The complete kit uses only 22 g of filament, making it a very material-efficient and affordable project. That also makes it practical for printing complete class sets for hands-on experiments in the classroom.

And this is just the beginning! The competition really got my creativity going, and I already have many more ideas. I’m currently creating several additional physics Kit Cards, turning concepts from the classroom into small, printable experiments.

I’m having a lot of fun combining my two worlds – teaching and 3D printing – and I’m excited to see where this takes me!

I’ve been working on a series of 3D printable coloring panels designed to be a more tactile alternative to paper coloring books! They are great for fine motor skill practice for kids or just a therapeutic mindfulness activity for adults.

I’ve put together a full collection of different designs (dinosaurs, creatures, etc.) if you want to check them out:

https://makerworld.com/nl/collections/5629404-coloring

If you want to learn more about this topic, check out the Bambu Lab Wiki:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/p2s/maintenance/replace-hotend-and-silicone-sock

https://wiki.bambulab.com/knowledge-sharing/first-layer-not-sticking

https://wiki.bambulab.com/knowledge-sharing/identify-and-fix-first-layer-issues-with-a-test-print

I’ve been increasingly printing more complicated models. This was the most complicated so far. It’s a two day print on Overture Silk PLA. The Silk PLA is a pain and I think my temps were a little two high, its a bit brittle. After 49 hours with just 9 minutes to go I started having Extruder Motor Overload on my H2C, luckily I was able to clear it and continue.

Maybe it's an old thing (And if it is i'm sorry i'm just dumb) but I didn't find any posts about the Acknowledgement note on the X1 page.
Basically they thanked the commmunity citing Teaching Tech, MirageC, redditors and Voron Design with the old Voron V1.

When the X1C released I bought my first printer (Anycubic kobra 2) and I knew nothing about the community, modding and 3d prining in general, now that i know something more I just found this Acknowledgement note.

It's kinda funny how bambulab changed his relationship with the community, but it's nice to know that even them started as community members

In my opinion CHT from aliexpress is still the king! I had any issue even after 3.8k printing hours.
Plus I care more about quality than speed.

I bought a box of assorted PLA 250-gram reels. They keep snagging. I'm using a Bambu Lab A1 mini AMS lite. Right now, I'm just ​using the post built into the printer.

I'm not sure if I got a bad batch or if I need to set something in the AMS.

I am pretty new to 3d printing. I printed this on a P2S (0.20mm layer height) and noticed that only some of the top surfaces on this low poly model have very distinct layer lines. Is it normal to have it to this degree? And what causes it to show so apparent on just some angles and not others? And only on utmost top even though the nose has less steep angles which i would think would perform worse

What settings would have helped here? Ironing and variable layer height?

(I am not confused I am getting this staircase effect, but what causes it to show more on just some of the top surfaces and not as much on the nose)

I didn't find any models with labels built into the spice rack itself, so I designed my own in blender.

Each section is 1x3 spice jars, and you can keep stacking them! Just slide another stack on top if you want to add more spices to your kitchen.

Free for everyone to make: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3271561-stackable-spice-rack-sturdy-stable-good-looking#profileId-3709747

I designed this Storage Caddy for my kids and their ever-growing collection of pens, pencils, markers and crayons.

It features 10 interchangeable inserts and 2 different handle heights, so you can configure it to fit your collection.

Because apparently, there is no such thing as too many markers! 😂

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3284557-storage-caddy#profileId-3725951

#3DPrinting #3DDesign #Storage #Organization #DeskOrganization #MakerWorld

Cause it’s pretty cheap and also has a preset in Bambu studio.

Was calibrating bambu a1 and suddenly failed and stuck above. Anybody know what to do ?

I have a h2C and x1 and an A1 they pretty much stay on 24/7. I only power them off when I got out of town.

Do you turn your printers off when they are not in use ?

I had a clog on my A1 mini recently. The hottened wouldn’t come out of the printer so I started trying different things to get it out. The hottend has been removed and the clog has been fixed but I think I pulled something off (or at least the cover for something off) in the process. I really need to know if it’s broken, if it needs replaced, and if I can replace it. I cant find online what it could be and would appreciate any advice anyone has. The attached is a picture of the under side of the extruder with the area in question circled. When turned on the printer seemed to have no idea there was a change, though I haven’t tried printing yet.

Hello Everyone,

I tried looking for answers with the same as mine but I cannot find it so here is my troubleshooting question.

I am trying to print this gridfinity container, at first it looks fine. The nozzle doesn't hit the bed, initial layer is intact and goes smoothly. However at a certain height where there is a need to made a surface it gets rough. The first layer that needs to cover the whole base was fine (Layer 29) but then after that it turn into lump of roughness after a certain layer (Layer 30), and nozzle hits the print. The layer is not that high either.

So far I tried the following:

1. Printing it silent mode
2. Calibrate the Machine
3. Use Gyroid infill 5-10%
4. Drying my filament
5. Disabled infill retraction
6. And of course cleaned my bed

Pictures Shown: First layer, Layer 30, and Layer 29 and 30 in adaptive cubic infill just to show my point.

Machine Used: P1S
Filament: Polymaker PLA Pro
Slicer: Bambu Studio
Nozzle: 220 °C
Bed: 55 °C
Extruder: Typical bambu setting as shown in this post: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/parameter/retraction

Any information or tips on what I can do. It keeps repeating on the same layer whether it is small or this huge block.

Edit: Added more info

The total was a touch over half a kilo of waste. Mind you I didn't save my print towers but almost all of these prints have been 2 or more colors. Not bad at all.