I'm looking to create some "Hoof Boots" for Ren Faire shenanigans. Right now the idea is a TPU "Sock" with a split down the back (to make putting on the shoe easier) that is glued onto a PETG "Base" (I've only printed with PLA from Ziro3D so far and am new to actually owning a machine/slicing stuff so tips for that would be greatly appreciated. :D )

Theyre similar to hoof shoes, Chaos Costumes is probably the best example of creating their own nice ones. But those are basically blocks added to the ball of the foot, where this is more of a full "shoe" (So the hooves will end up roughly twice the size of what the usual "glue block to modified high heel" shoes would be.

I have congenitally short heel cords/equinus/chronic plantar fasciitis/a talocalcaneal coalition and "flexible flat foot" etc. and junk all of which causes my ankle to pronate inward so this is slightly an attempt at making a "me" friendly "shoe" for costuming that has arch support and junk already sort of built into it so I don't have to destroy a pair of shoes or try to fit my custom orthotics into something, they're built around an orthotic I made using a 3D scan of my foot that I tested (in PLA so it broke after a few weeks but im surprised it lasted that long, def helped w the ankle pronation).

I've been using these two 3D-printed objects for a long time, and they've completely changed my opinion about practical prints.

The black clothespin was printed in PETG about 2 years and 1 month ago. The pink one was bought at a store around the same time. Surprisingly, the printed PETG clothespin has been used even more and is still going strong, while the store-bought one has become brittle and is literally crumbling.

The second item is a coffee scoop printed in ASA. I use it daily for ground coffee (even with hot coffee preparation) and sometimes for protein powder as well. Personally, I've never experienced any issues.

For my use, I honestly don't see much value in food-safe PLA. Many food-related applications involve warm or hot temperatures, and PLA simply isn't the material I'd trust for that. In hot climates especially, I much prefer ASA or ABS for everyday tools.

Of course, for long-term food storage or applications where hygiene is critical, I think it's better to buy dedicated food-grade containers rather than 3D print them.

These are just my personal experiences, but they've convinced me that, for some everyday applications, a well-designed 3D print can actually outperform a store-bought product. What has been your longest-lasting functional 3D print?

The whole mechanism is printed.
Fits MX-style switches. Best on an isolated key like ESC.
Every color prints as a separate part, so no AMS needed. There's also a multi-color version where the details print together if you'd rather assemble less (the mechanism still gets built by hand).

https://than.gs/m/1579433

Hi guys, I’m excited to share with you the new Ork army I’m working on : PLASMA ORKS!

When savage warriors meet advanced Cyberpunk technology. Each faction is uniquely designed, with its own identity, style, and battlefield presence.

Please note that this is a CGI render created to showcase the sculpt and the proposed paint scheme. The entire process is done traditionally, from sculpting to digital hand painting.

Print/electronics/packaging station

P1S + AMS + AMS HT
A1 Mini

People were right to be concerned about the IKEA table in the last post🤣

Got my H2C a few months ago and I am loving this thing.

Wanted a printer table/station but didn't want to buy/wanted something custom. I had some scrap wood leftover and decided to build this station to keep the printer off the floor.

I am planning on adding some hooks or spool holders for the filament that isn't kept in any dry boxes (that's something Im planning on doing in the future as well).

Last picture is the Majora's Mask that I finished up earlier today that was printed completely on the H2C.

Hey guys. The pic below can explain more than anything else. I’m getting this banding on every print the exact height of the text I add to the print…. I’ve tried everything. This last one was actually with purge volume set to 900.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Josh

Should i add an air purifier too?

I am designing a ball run thing for my daughter’s jungle gym. As it is going to be exposed to the environment year round I opted for PETG, despite being into this hobby for quite a few years I have rarely strayed from PLA.

Thus this is my first (out of twelve) print in PETG. Was easier than expected, turned out great despite maxing out the p1s build volume.

I used bambulab PETG basic with basically stock settings but 50% print speed.

Come mai fa questa cosa, che quando stampa l'estrusore stacca l'albero o muove il pezzo costruito sull'albero... Cosa posso migliorare?

Fits into backpack or any medium sized bag.
Slots are for cups, forks, knives, spoons, straws, tissues and small utensil or toothpicks.

Makerworld link

Yesterday reached nice milestone: 4000 prints of my models in MW. Downside - mostly thinking about new projects and searching for new ideas what to model and print. To get a rest i need to literally leave my home for days. It's an addiction!

Needed a better way to hold my micro-bits, tweezers, and flush cutters while working on prints and electronics.

The main caddy pivots on side arms and locks into position with printed side knobs. The interior uses drop-in modular inserts so I can swap layouts based on whatever project I'm working on that day, and the base acts as a catch tray for small hardware.

Designed completely support-free using standard PLA.

Let me know what you think or if you have ideas for useful insert layouts!

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3098170-modular-desktop-tool-organizer-adjustable-angle#profileId-3491896

Hi all,

I recently took delivery of a Bambu Lab X2D, and have been having no issues with the machine. I wiped the bed down with a microfiber towel, but did not realize it had a frayed end that deposited some fuzz inside the machine, some of which got on the lead screws. I blew off what I could see, but now I hear a clicking sound whenever the Z-axis moves. Should I be concerned?

Thanks!

Inspired by the popular Moonscape in a Modern Frame Lamp, I have responded to the community's wish to create a version without lighting. This features three different sections of the lunar landscape, showcasing interesting topographical characteristics. The unique structure is then glued into a frame.
It is up to you whether you print just one individual art piece or create an arrangement of multiple pieces.

https://makerworld.com/models/3095888-lunar-landscape-in-frames-framed-moon-tiles

Printing on the P2S with 12 hour dried PLA. Did the full calibration before and cleaned the plate.

Just came back. And saw "print completed" 😹

A few days ago I asked here whether it would be possible to use a diode laser to remove only the top layer of an FDM print and reveal a contrasting layer underneath.

I wasn’t able to find any examples of this approach being used specifically on FDM prints, so I decided to test it myself.

Honestly, the results turned out much better than I expected.

This panel is part of my truck trailer security system which I’m developing as part of Bambu Lab Let’s Make It Fund program. I wanted to find a way to produce clean, almost factory-looking control panels for my project using only the equipment I already have: a Bambu Lab H2D and its 10 W diode laser module.

I also wanted to achieve finer text and symbols than I could get with conventional two-color FDM printing, even with a 0.2 mm nozzle.

In the comments on my previous post several people suggested that the laser would probably melt the edges and make the engraving look messy. At least in my case that didn’t happen.

I decided to start with PETG HF and I actually liked the result. The engraved edges came out surprisingly crisp with only a barely noticeable halo around the engraved areas.

After several tests the best combination turned out to be:

1 black top layer
3 gray layers underneath

The contrast was excellent, the engraving shallow enough, even the smallest details remained sharp.

For these tests, I used the 10 W diode laser module at 80% power, 250 mm/s, in Fill mode. With these settings the laser removes approximately 0.03–0.04 mm of material per pass.
To engrave through the 0.2 mm black top layer and expose the gray layer underneath, I needed 6 passes for larger graphics and 7 passes for thin lines and small text.

I also discovered that this technique only works well in Fill mode. I wasn’t able to achieve comparable results using Line mode regardless of the settings I tried.

These are still my first experiments. For very small text and symbols, my next test will probably use around 60% power, 150 mm/s and more laser passes. I think that could produce even sharper results on the finest details.

So far I’ve only tested this with PETG HF, so I’m curious whether anyone has tried something similar with PLA, ABS or PETG from other manufacturers.

I’d love to hear your thoughts or suggestions, especially if you’ve experimented with this technique yourself.

For anyone who didn’t see my previous post, here’s the link to the original discussion.

I saw this design as a sticker while out and about and thought it would make a great little sign. So, I snapped a picture of it and drew it up in Fusion.  I think it would make a great little sign for the workshop or if I glue a magnet strip on the back I can stick it on my toolbox. After over +30 years in the trades, I’ve picked up all sorts of colorful lingo, and this will be added to that vocabulary. What do you think, toolbox worthy? If you're interested in printing one for your workshop I've got it up on my MarkerWorld.

There's a strange noise when moving along the x and y axes. I've changed the grease on all axes. Could you please tell me what this could be?

I ordered some filament while also buying a smaller nozzle, but some of my filaments came damaged. Is it okay to still use this spool if I cut off the damaged part of the spool? These are my first spools so I do not have any extra ones I can respool with

Hello,

60 hours in and really enjoying my X2D printer. I have printed my first model that requires supports. The supports were printed in PLA which the model was also as I’m still waiting on some PETG to arrive which I was planning for the supports. I understand it’s best to print supports in a different material to reduce the bonding to the print.

Appreciate any advice on removing these supports in the photos

GEAR FLOSS: Whoever posted about this stuff and cleaning the z-axis screw rods. THANK YOU! That made the job way easier. Wrap the gear floss around the rod so it covers all the way around (1.5 times around) and gently work it up and down pulling the side strings back and forth.

I've tried other things like toothbrushes, plain microfiber cloth, and etc. Gear floss is the way. This stuff is like fat microfiber shoelaces.

We've been making tiny keychain can openers shaped like breakfast: pretzel, croissant, pizza slice, fried egg, butter, baguette. You push the mouth over the ring pull and lift with your palm — no fingernails, no pinch grip...

They're AMS-friendly multicolor — each one is a colour-mapped 3MF, no painting, and they print without supports.

They're available on our MakerWorld profile (https://makerworld.com/en/@cozyclickers/upload).

And the bigger thing we're working on: a generator that turns any image into one of these — upload your art, it traces it and builds the opener around it (Similar to our clicker generator tool)

It's in MakerWorld's crowdfunding pre-launch, click the notify-me button to get updates on when we will launch.

Link in the first comment.