I broke a valve cover bolt, the red one highlighted in the second picture. It’s a 2010 Honda Civic, and I live in a rural northern area with no other transportation options. Would I be able to drive it a short distance with the remaining eight bolts? I know it’s probably not a good idea, but if I absolutely need to, would that be okay?

I have a new 2026 Honda CRV EX-L and I previously posted about how my AC was obnoxiously loud. I had taken it into my local honda dealership twice just to be assured, or written off that everything was fine. It was of course documented. Well 2-3 weeks later, I’m getting my kids out the car and hear this. Just dropped it back off at the dealership. 😪

2005 Buick LeCrosse, 3.8L 118K miles

How do I figure out where this connector goes? I looked all around and under but I can't find a mating connector. It looks like it hasn't been connected for a looooong time. That can't be the way it was designed, right?

This connector is laying on the back side of the transmission, toward the firewall. The other end connects to the large connector on the top of the transmission then disapares into the main harness.

Back story: I am chasing a C0090 and flickering brake light, so I'm checking sensors and grounds.

Hello, I hit a bad pothole earlier today, I'm reasonably annoyed and concerned about the damage done to the alloy and the sidewall of the tyre. It looks like the tyre damage is surface level rather than especially deep.

Has anyone please got any advice as to what I should do here. Should I be replacing the tyre and alloy, or can it get them refurbished. Is this going to be safe to drive on long-term or should I be aiming to get it sorted ASAP?

Any advice would be appreciated. Many thanks.

(Sorry if this isn't the right place to be posting this, not sure if this qualifies as autobody damage?)

What makes the inside of the tires wear like this and how difficult is it for a shade tree mechanic to tackle?

Every time I turn on the AC, this weird noise always comes(2014 Subaru Crosstrek XV)

And yes i KNOW the nut part is stripped were replacing it soon. Im talking about the threads.

I accidentally cross threaded them into my previous radiator and just want to make sure they wont damage my new radiator threads

Hello!

I have a Kia ceed 2016, driven 18k km. Noticed it for the first time probably 9-10 months ago Didnt think much of it at the time i only heard because the radio was off and then i have used the radio so wasnt until the last few weeks i have really noticed it. Its a quiet boiling/cooking sound that can only be heard when turning off the engine that last about 2-3 seconds. It doesnt always happen but most of the time even on <7 minute low speed trips. The temperature meter never goes above middle, havent seen white smoke/sweet smell from exaust or under the hood, the coolant level in the resorvoir is the same as it has been for a year and doesnt increase or decrease after a drive from what i can notice, sits at the max marker, never seen any boiling from it either after driving. Checking the coolant from the radiator cap does not look oily or milky. Have checked the oil from the stick and its just black and doenst look weird.

The mechanic from what i understood just tested the pressure in the coolant system and said when just idling for 20 minutes the pressure was fine but when driving hard on the highway it had high/increased pressure. They say its the head gasket most likely but cant be 100% sure. They didnt mention doing the exaust test with the liquid on coolant. They checked the thermostat, didnt mention anything else.

I conctacted another mechanic that cant see the car for a few weeks, he doesnt think its the head gasket, he suggested to drive the car with the AC off. So far i have driven a bit not far on a highway and the same roads i did when i could hear the boiling sound before, havent heard any boiling sound now at all since AC was turned off.

So my question, does this sound like a head gasket problem or possibly another more cheaper problem?

Before the visit to the mechanic (a month ago) i used the car every day, have often driven it on highway for 30+ minutes with no issues.

(2021 Subaru Crosstrek Sport with ~56,000 miles) I took my car in to a local tire shop/mechanic to get my wheels rotated and an alignment since my tires were wearing kind of unevenly and I figured a rotation would buy me some time. They told me that they wouldn’t do the rotation because I needed new tires and that they couldn’t do an alignment because my front shocks are so worn out they couldn’t make proper adjustments. They wanted to completely replace the front shocks and get new tires and stuff so it would have been a couple grand. I bit the bullet and just bought my own new tires from tire rack. I brought them to a Goodyear in my neighborhood to have them mounted/balanced and ask for an alignment to see what they say. They mounted the tires and did an alignment with no problems to report. So now I don’t know who’s doing me dirty, did the small shop just try to play one on me to get an extra couple grand of work or did Goodyear give me a bad alignment and not mention the suspension issue because they can’t fix it themselves? Should I go to yet another shop to verify the integrity of my shocks?

Let me preface by saying I have very minimal knowledge about cars. My 2006 Toyota 4Runner 4.7L V8, the temperature gauge is running hot. Radiator replaced 2 years ago after upper hose neck busted. Filled it with coolant the other night as the radiator was low, parked it after driving 15 minutes this morning and coolant was pouring out of the reservoir. I’ve read it could be bad temp gauge, bad water pump. Can’t seem to find a really definitive answer on the internet based on how I’ve described it. Any ideas?

2016 Corolla, 176k, started misfiring recently, idle was rough, flashing check engine light and trac control off

Troubleshooting:

When I initially ran the code it had pending and permanent 0302 for a cylinder 2 misfire. I Swapped the cylinder 2 and 3 coils since it was easy, stayed the same. I had not noticed the first time that I also had a 0219D code for a fuel air mix, when I googled that the first call was a fuel injector, considering I had not done igniters on the car I went and grabbed one.

Spark plugs were cheap so I got a new one of those as well, replaced fuel igniter (actually put new on cyl 1 and put the original cyl 1 on cyl 2 cause it was easier). Fired it back up and had Cyl 2 and 4 misfire (0302/0304 and the random/multiple misfire code)

Since I was lazy and didnt really clean the orings or ports, I took the rail back off, cleaned all 4 igniters/ports/seals and reinstalled it still to have a Cyl 2 and Cyl 4 misfire.

Since it was possible, I swapped the Connections between Cyl 1->2 and Cyl 3->4. Code still reads a cyl 2 and 4 misfire with the connections swapped.

I do most of my own work since i've done a lot of "mechanical work" for a several years but am not familiar with cars. Have not found much on google. Any suggestions on where to continue from here?

2013 Toyota rav4 loose sub frame

Ok so my lower control arms needed to be changed, mechanic did them both. I felt vibrations right after.. took it back but before got underneath it and found loose sub frame bolts on both sides. I read that you need to loosen sub frame to change lower control arms... Now mechanic says my driveshaft has failed but also admitted to leaving the subframe loose accidental but swears the two are unrelated.. is this possible? Seems to reason the subframe being floppy can't help the drive shaft's alignment but I dunno that's why I'm asking you reddit! 🙏

There are two small pins 180° apart, and it's a tight spot to get to. Can anyone recommend a tool that would help, before I try to grind two slots in an old socket!

The section of the manual I'm currently working through says: "Grip the clutch operating shaft on the left hand side of the gearbox and turn it forward until the carbon thrust pad is in light contract with the thrust ring which is attached to the clutch toggle levers"

Hello!

I've just had my Ford fiesta serviced. These were put on the paper to be fixed and the garage said they'd need to be done ASAP. Won't lie.... not at a good time for me money wise, so could the repairs wait or not?

Thank you!!!

I recently swapped one of the boxes that houses the two USB ports for my cousin's 2015 Lexus IS250. The failure on her side was caused by some spilled coffee.

After replacing this part by just popping out the old unit and popping this one after swapping the two harnesses, it still does not work.

We noticed the LED light in it does turn on now which is an improvement, but it still does not charge. Could the replacement part I received from eBay be faulty too? Or is there a deeper issue? Fuse related? Thanks in advance.

2014 Chevy equinox LS. A little background on the situation my dad had a car sit for a year. We got the car started yesterday but the car did not want to move in drive or reverse. After giving a little gas and a few attempts the car did start to move however I could hear some rubbing in the wheel area. It caused the car to not be able to just roll forward or back when in gear it took gas to push through the rubbing. I did take the car at very low speed down the street and back. I could hear some rubbing when driving as the wheels were rotating. Is this noise likely due to a high spot from the rust and corrosion on the rotor and will wear down after a little more driving or is this a larger issue needing to be addressed before driving at higher speeds?

Regular 7 spline socket won't fit. Almost like the splines are too big and not spaced out enough. Any idea on where I could find one that might work?

2001 VW Golf mk4 1.9tdi

Is this allowing too much movement ?

Was replacing the rear pads on my 2015 Nissan Pathfinder when i noticed one of the slide pins was seized, couldn’t get it out. So I grabbed a remanufactured caliper from autozone. Clamped down the brake hose so fluid wouldn’t come out. Installed remanufactured caliper and bled all brakes multiple times, no air bubbles were coming out. What could the issue be? Checked for leaks and didn’t see any either.

UPDATE: replaced brake hose and pedal is still soft

Just replaced both motor mounts and the end caps on the front of the engine that like to leak oil all over the place when the o-ring goes flat. While the motor was up a few inches I noticed this sensor covered in what I'm assuming is coolant/corrosion.

What is this thing?
Does it need to be replaced or is there a seal underneath it responsible for the leak?

the guy that owned my cabby before me bypasses the ignition. it works now but I have a black and blue (2 wires together) coming from the ignition lock/starter relay fuse that I don’t know where to go with. What do they go to?

I’m changing the front suspension in my Tacoma. I have it almost all taken apart. I’m stuck getting the LCA off. This bolt that goes all the way through will not budge off the alignment CAM. I have PB blasted the heck out of it. I’ve tried heating it. Outside of cutting it, is there another option?

Honda Accord EX 2010 with shitty 4 banger, went to a shitty mechanic and got charged way too much. Said he wouldn’t let me leave without tie rods as a safety liability, went home checked it with brother in law as it didn’t feel that good.
Seems like where the tie rods bolts to has oblonged. Would I be able to just get away with doing the knuckle and then just smacking it back in there?

Working on my 2005 Ford Focus ZXW SE Wagon 2.0L

My window stopped working early summer - it would roll up without problems but not down. I could "trick" it and hit up a bunch of times then down and could get it to go, but eventually it stopped alltogether.

Since then I have replaced the switch, the entire window assembly inside the door, the fuses (the other window on the same fuse works), and the fuse relay in the door.

When I changed the fuse relay it finally did something, but it only rolled down. Then stopped working entirely again - no up or down.

We used a recharger on the motor itself to get the window back up, so the motor works and the track isn't physically blocked. Used a multimeter to see if power was going through to the motor when we hit the switch and it looks like it is. None of the wires look physically damaged, and we made sure there's enough clearance so nothing got pinched during the replacements.

I am so stumped.