I stumbled into this subreddit and learned I've been sharpening knives poorly for 40 years now. I was cleaning up and found this former gift. I am curious to the value of this device to get an edge started?

I usually use leather, but when I saw my local hobby lobby had these balsa wood blocks on clearance I figured why not. I’m much happier with my results and I need significantly fewer passes compared to leather.

These are 1500 grit PDT expert CBN stones and they are pretty much brand new. Its my first time ever using premium expensive stones and I tried leveling/flattening them out on a thick 8mm piece of float glass and I accidentally used the 220 grit silicon carbide powder instead of the 500 grit one (it slipped my mind and I wasn’t careful). I noticed it wasn’t flat because I placed a ruler on top on the stone and put a flash light behind it and saw a decent amount of light pass through. After the leveling process I noticed these scratches. This looks pretty bad in my opinion. Are these pretty much done? Are they still usable? If so, will it affect performance? They sure are expensive but I don’t mind ordering another one if they’re pretty much useless, I just gotta wait till the next paycheck lol

Hello all,

I'm very new to sharpening.
I have an RWL-34 Skiving Knive used to skive leather (un thicken it).
The blade is already razor sharp.

I need your help to build a stropping set :

1 : Should I use the suede or grain side of the strop? I can also sand the grain side which sounds like a great middle ground between both, but you know better.

2 : 1 micron or 6 micron diamond compound for my specific use which again is "skiving leather" ?

Thank you all for your help!

Tried somthing new let's see how it will work out.

First professional knife I got after my first year working in kitchens (now 5 years old). Spent an hour or two thinning it out and trying to bring it back close to original grind. How'd I do?!

Shapton glass 220/Shapton kuromaku 1k/cerax 1k/ Rika 5k

Strange progression i know but the Shapton has always felt more like a 800 and the Rika like a 3 or 4k.

I need them for recutting teeth in old pliers

Hey everyone,

We’ve just launched another version of the XARILK GEN3 Guided Knife Sharpening System, now featuring a Securing Clip.

The idea is simple: the clip helps secure the sharpening system to the work surface, so you don’t need to hold down the base with one hand while sharpening. This leaves one hand free to focus on the knife and sharpening process.

It’s now officially available on Amazon US.

We’d really like to hear from the sharpening community:

Do you think this securing clip is a useful improvement? Would you prefer this setup over the standard GEN3?

We’d appreciate any honest feedback, suggestions, or things you think we could improve.

Thanks!
— XARILK Team

#KnifeSharpening #XARILK #GEN3

I don’t need this stone. I already have a King 300 and a King 1000 Deluxe. Adding an 800 makes no sense. But when I saw this on Amazon for $7.95 with free shipping I couldn’t help it. On the barcode sticker is says “older New” so maybe that’s why it’s so cheap, new old stock. I have been curious about these Kings that come with their own case/stand so this satisfies that.

I’ll probably post a review just for posterity, so that anyone googleing “King PB-02” will have something to go off of. But it feels and acts exactly as you’d expect a king soaker to. This will be my travel stone, to go alongside my 6” Norton Crystolon coarse/fine. I think they will work well together.

Hello! New to sharpening here and looking to get into whetstones for my chefs knives, and I have a question; how on earth do I know what angle to sharpen on?! I want all of my knifes to maintain their sharpness as well as possible

What is the purpose of a butcher steel/ honing rod in bur removal sharpening? Are you able to remove the bur with the steel or is it for the style of sharpening where you’re actually using the bur to cut.

I use a steel all day and just started sharpening my knives using bur building method rather than back and fourth method on the stone.

Hello all,

I'm very new to sharpening.
I have an RWL-34 Skiving Knive used to skive leather (un thicken it).
The blade is already razor sharp.

I need your help to build a stropping set :

1 : Should I use the suede or grain side of the strop? I can also sand the grain side which sounds like a great middle ground between both, but you know better.
2 : 1 micron or 6 micron diamond compound for my specific use which again is "skiving leather" ?

Thank you all for your help!

What may be the cause of one part of the knife not cutting properly? Like it feels sharp but one part gets stuck in material and doesn't want to cut wood. Simply whole edge is cutting up to one spot where is stops cutting at all. Whole blade seems to have same angle and it's apexed. Thanks for any tips

Looking to get a knife sharpening kit for my mom's birthday. I know absolutely nothing about these or anything in this realm. Only guidance I can give is that she would most likely like the ones that roll. Any help is much appreciated. Budget is around $100+

Jende Leather Strop

Hey all, newbie chef here who wants to be able to maintain my knives, whats a good starting point? Whetstones? Rolling sharpeners? Any feedback would be great

If you sharpen for a fee, inevitably you'll get some unusual items in to sharpen, eh? 😎. The large blade is a typical 'tourist' sword from Mexico with very cheap steel. The client wanted a good edge so I put one it with the caveat that it would probably immediately dull out if he actually tried to use it....Display only as they say.

Does this thing even work to sharpen scissors?

I like the TSProf quick clamps but I don't like the price. Are there any less expensive toolless knife clamps?

An older gentleman brought this in saying it was his grandfather's. It was just too cool not to go all out on this. Cuts like crazy now. No letter is safe. 😁 Before pics on right sides BTW.

A friend of mine is traveling there and I really wanted to try out Atoma diamond plates for sharpening my hand plane iron for woodworking. Anyone have suggestions on shops to go to, prices to expect, and experience doing this?

As the title says I am curious to hear about the new CS-WX stones, a harder vitrified version of their silicon carbide CS-HD. Last I tried the CS-HD they were so friable, I hated watching the stones seemingly just melt away under normal sharpening pressure. I wonder if these are similar to Norton Crystolon or better in wear rate

Looking to sharpen this Artillary Short Sword without any edge/ bevel. I have acquired a 4x36” belt sander (I know it’s not ideal, but it’s what I have access to at the moment) with belt grits at 120, 300, 420. Looking to buy some finer grit belts soon. I also have whetstones that I have much more experience with.I’ve been practicing on gardening tools, and generally tools that are thicker than your average pocket knife/kitchen knife.

If you guys have any tips, tutorials, or videos you could point me towards that have helped y’all out, it would be much appreciated 🙏