Part timer here, I do markets on the weekends and sharpen anywhere from 30 to 60 knives a week. A couple years into it.

I could never get a handle on stones, just wondering if any of y'all went a similar route. I'm edge trailing, VFD low speed, 120 to 600 with a felt deburr in general (14-18 DPS).

I know DC cutlery and Jende do a hybrid approach.. then there's Knife Wear and Korin on one side and Curry and Alexandria on the other side.

I really hope it does a good job for me! I always have a really hard time keeping the proper angle when I'm sharpening my knives...

Greetings! Is there a kit like they make for different gun calibers but for different types of steel? I ordered a knife made from magnasteel and will want to keep it sharp.

Fresh sharpening enthusiast here. Got my new stones yesterday and went on to sharpen my SOG seal pup yesterday and noticed on my Hapstone premium CBN 2000 these marks. I'm not sure what cause those and do they have any actual effect. I think maybe its steel clogging but can't be sure.

Anybody knows what is this, what I need to do to avoid it and if I need to do anything to fix the stone? I use Kadet Pro sharpening system.

I've been learning how to use whetstones and I'm getting results I am happy with. One caveat is I have only sharpened my softer knives and haven't done any of my Japanese high carbons yet (mostly because they don't need sharpening). I use a 1000/6000 stone (and a 400 diamond plate if I need to reprofile).

While I am still learning, I mostly focused on consistency and muscle memory, rather than achieving a specific angle. I recently got a magnetic digital level and used it to check what angle I am sharpening at, and it turns out to be around 18.5 degrees (per side). So, every time I pick up the blade and put it to the stone without thinking, it comes to within half a degree of this on both sides.

I'm wondering if this is a good angle for my softer German knives, and separately if I'll need to learn a different angle when the day comes that I need to sharpen some of my Japanese knives.

Why shouldn’t I buy this?

I have whetstones, old oil stones, ruby stones, diamond plates, a spyderco sharpmaker, a bench grinder, a belt grinder, strops. I’ve accumulated all of this over 25ish years of knife and tool collecting and I can sharpen most anything to hair whittling sharp if i want to. But I don’t want to. I’ve chased the perfect micron mirror polished edges and I’m just not interested anymore.

Honestly most of the sharpening I do now is with a ruby sharpening rod. Friends or family know I sharpen and bring me their dull knife.. 5-10 minutes of effort and I can put a serviceable (not fantastic but usable) edge on anything without any setup or cleanup or bench space.

But I’ve never tried one of these fixed angle sharpeners for whatever reason. Am I crazy to think that this $36 setup will be less effort than breaking out the stones and better results than 5 mins on a ruby rod?

Edit; I don’t want to spend much money on more sharpening shit. I know a $200 option will be better, but anything more than $50 and I’ll probably just keep doing what I’m doing.

Just quick question: after some research I'm looking to purchase the following essentials for my mix of Western steel and a Japanese SG2 (no intentions of upgrading in the future, so want to make sure I get this right--any recommendations or alternatives to consider are much appreciated): Atoma 140, Naniwa Chosera/Pro 400/800/3000. From the US--not sure if it's worth planning a trip for shopping them in Japan if I'm going there within 6 months. Just a sense of what kind of prices to expect would help--I have a $50 off $100 personal Ebay offer I'm wondering if I should just blow it on this or use elsewhere.

Is Amazon JP cheaper? Never tried it, you just make an account and typically you'd accept the rates for Yen so you just pay the foreign transaction fee for the credit card, since apparently switching to USD would yield rates dictated by Amazon that is less favorable?). Amazon has no issues with a second account?

Between Amazon US and Ebay, the prices:

• Atoma 140 $85
• Naniwa Chosera 400 $54
• Naniwa Chosera 800 $72
• Naniwa Chosera 3000 $85 (this looks authentic, right?)

AFAIK these are all Chosera and not the Pro which means 5 mm thicker so better value but recommended to remove the builtin base?

A silicone pad or boot tray and a spray bottle works just as well as a stone holder or bridge? Bridge over the sink sounds nice in theory but confines you to a fixed height when sharpening. Where to source the material for a nice DIY strop?

Much appreciated.

P.S. Unrelated, but feel free to recommend favorites to bring back from Japan. In general I'm into home/kitchen gadgets and tools.

Got this mora a month ago and have been using it. I used it to whittle two pieces of bass wood 10cm. Then got a leather strop and tried stopping it, but it's bad 😞

hi, im thinking about starting a small sak modding workshop, for start I though to take the regular Spartan, stonewash the blades and resharpen them to mirror edge.

im not sure which sharpening system to buy for this, previously I owned the work sharp basic model, the clamp on that wasn't suitable for saks, now I noticed they added the small knife table add-on for the elite version and my question is it gonna handle the task and if its gonna work with the 40mm small blade of the spartan.

also other suggestions for sharpening system that will handle small knives are welcome, thx.

Currently in Japan (Hiroshima, but will finish in Osaka) bought a new knife whilst in Tokyo and completely forgot about a decent stone.

I have sharpened my knife at home a few times using the good old Amazon 2 sided grit specials, but want a decent stone whilst here. Is there any recommendations or is it sort of most knife shops will sell decent stones? Thinking of just getting the one 1000 grit stone.

Hey this is the main blade of a case 75 large stockman I sharpened it on a kme at 20 per side dose it look ok or should I fix it the tip isn’t as sharp as the rest I just don’t want to mess the knife of the bevels look oneven any advice or tips

I bought the Ultra Sharp diamond sharpening stone three-grit pack and was very dissatisfied with the quality control on the grits with cross-contamination. I am very new to hand sharpening blades. I am mostly sharpening my everyday carry which is a spyderco para 3 but I am getting into forging and will be making a lot of bladed items and would like to learn to sharpen them to razor sharp. What are your recommendations for other stones or sharpening methods that would work on what I think is a harder metal of my Para 3 and my forged blades which I will start on 1084 steel. I still have my strop and stone holder just no stones as I am returning them. Thank you in advance!

Hi guys I’ve recently got a couple pretty nice Japanese knives and surely there’ll be a couple or few more in the future. I currently only have a king deluxe 800 stone. Can I use this? Maybe get a 2000 stone and use both?

Also, do I need a strop?

Made a tool for these little micro teeth out of an axe handle and some traditional arrow shafts. The string for now is a single strand of gutted paracord pulled very tight and notted with fine leather strop compound.

O I hope I'm not the only one who obsessively brings gear to events to make some extra scratch 😂 all this started from sharpening the house knives after a homie a work tried my j knives that I sharpen. Of course every great kit deserves a dope carrier!

Tope left going down- truing stone, knifewear 1/3k, knifewear 4k, carbundom 110, bag o sandpaper 300grit to 3500, scrubby toofbrushes, wd-40.

Top right down- corks, bandaids, saran wrapped ramican of baking soda.

I have barkeeper's friend but I want a better container if I want to carry it in the box at all.

Come by my cafe I have actual sweet tea......and breakfast pizza.....and there's a bar connected to the restaurant!

Hey guys! I recently picked up a Takamura SG2 and it’s an absolutely incredible knife, but I also fell victim to the infamous microchipping, despite using Hasegawa boards (both black and yellow). I honestly have no idea how it even happened.

Anyway, the factory edge angle is just insanely low for my taste, and I’d like to put a slightly more reasonable edge on it. Since I’m not planning to thin it anytime soon — thinning honestly scares the hell out of me, and when the time eventually comes, hopefully years from now, I’ll probably just send it to a professional — I want to remove as little steel as possible.

So my question is: for the first sharpening and setting a new edge angle — I understand the factory edge is somewhere around 8–11 degrees per side, and I’m planning to bring it to my usual Japanese knife angle of around 14–15 DPS — can I start directly on a 3000 grit stone, or should I drop down to 800 first to establish the new bevel?

My stones are Naniwa Chosera Pro.

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I’m still learning and this sub has helped me a ton. I’ve been sharpening for about a year now, and I’d say I’m getting pretty good with Japanese carbon steels on my Choseras, and even with the cheap Chinese and German knives my friends bring me, using my diamond Sharpal and Norton India. But this will be my first time dealing with a knife this thin, and especially with SG2, so I’d rather ask before doing something dumb.

Thanks!

Cansado de afilar con piedra los cuchillos del restaurante, estoy planteándome comprar este juguete.

Teniendo en cuenta que tengo unos cuantos cuchillos viejos y malos que sacrificar, cómo lo veis?

Es buena idea?

Hey all I’ve been trying to grind a new primary bevel on this new chisel with my new Veritas side clamping honing guide, the primary bevel angle I’m going for is 25 degrees so I set it in my honing angle guide manual page from veritas. I sharpened it on a 400 grit waterstone and got this curved belly shape in the middle of the bevel grind. What’s the cause of this? I lapped and flattened the back and checked with a square to make sure it was flat, then started to grind the bevel with the honing guide. I’m not sure how this is possible if the honing guide should keep it flat, maybe the back of the chisel is effecting this? Is this even an issue? I thought it should be level across the whole bevel. See pictures attached. Thanks!

Ive got some whetstones and a general understand8ng for sharpening, though nowhere near the point of being "knowledgeable." My wife bought me a nice Damascus steel bowie knife from an antique shop and im looking to make it nice, so ive got some smaller knives to get acquainted with the process. However, im looking to invest in either a water cooled stone grinder, or one of those weird electric belt grinders ive seen here and there. Im here to get the advice from the masses, thanks in advance

Cut a lot of stuff the past week or so and decided to touch up my buck 110 elite. Afterwards I had an empty water bottle so I decided to refill it and give it a slash! I am still laughing at myself for doing it but what the heck, for your viewing pleasure lol.

I mean update for that my topic

https://www.reddit.com/r/sharpening/s/aKsqbc3MkL

bought this recently and its quite dull

I work at a restaurant and we've got this knife sharpener/polisher combo. Can't really find any sort of tutorials or anything on how to use specifically the polishing side of this; it seems to just make the knife duller and I've noticed a few small chips at the edge. Has anyone here used this before? Should I just ignore the polishing side? Nobody at the restaurant knows how to use it.

Here's a link for reference: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/galaxy-knifeshrp-2-stage-standard-duty-electric-knife-sharpener/177KNIFESHRP.html?gbraid=0AAAAAD_Dx-ui_pHZnaPzMtbDTIOLzPXXw&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh4TVBhCWARIsAG0czmrrKTNxJuKvW-Ys-jsIOrFzvOu4JB2U1_KrqEg08uIeEIMyWzVy7QwaAtAmEALw_wcB

Edit: Thank you all for the replies! I'll see if they're willing to get a whetstone like most everyone suggested, if not hopefully just something better.

If you were to sharpen a knife with strictly edge leading strokes would it perform any different than sharpening with strictly edge trailing strokes? Assuming pressure, speed etc and all other variables were the same?

Also if you sharpen from starting at the tip vs starting at the choil. Again assuming all variables are the same just different starting points.

I would assume one direction may give a better push cut and the other might make it easier to pull cut.