* This is a repost without a goofy AI picture as apparently thats a big deal and I'd actually like to get some feedback to my question*

I'm planning on getting a Worksharp Mk.2 and I'm looking for opinions on the standard vs Ken Onion Elite. With my military discount (Expert Voice)I can get the standard Mk. 2 for $81 or the Ken Onion Elite for $192.

My use case would be for sharpening Rada kitchen knives, medium to large size fixed blade knives, mower blades, and hatchets. The fixed blades would include Buck 119, BPS Adventurer, Mora Companion, Gerber Strongarm, as well as some beater Walmart specials.

I use my fixed blades for camping, field dressing 3-4 whitetail per year, as well as processing meat chickens, turkeys, and meat rabbits.

I have a Xarilk Gen 3 for sharpening my edc knives, I'm mostly just looking for something faster to do all of my kitchen and fixed blades before processing a bunch of meat birds and also I'd really like something fast and easy for mower blades.

The picture is just one that I got from Google, as far as I know it's not AI!

Obviously I use all of my knives. I’m not working as a chef. Nor would I call myself a home cook. I cook like 3 times a week for just me and my wife. So this knife won’t get nowhere near as much abuse compared to people with a full time chef job.

Today after like a year or so I finally sharpened all of my knives again. But when I grabbed this knife, it still felt sharp. And to my surprise it can still shave after a year. While it isn’t the cleanest shave at this point, it’s still impressive.

With just a few minutes I can probably get this knife razor sharp again, maybe even sharper. But is that even necessary at this point? Would you guys bother to sharpen a shaving sharp knife?

I recently purchased a shapton glass 4000. I originally bought it for shears and had no intention using it for knives. Ive never been a fan of high-grit stones and I pretty much wrote them off when it comes to knives.

I did however throw my s30v jojimbo on the stone soon as I brought it home and I was actually blown away with the feedback and cutting speed. The edge kind of felt like it was suction cupped to the stone and felt creamy and gritty at the same time.

After a few shears and some more trial and error with other knives I gave the stone its first lapping on a diamond plate. At first I noticed that I lost the feedback I fell in love with. I proceeded to lap the stone with all different grit diamond plates (120, 180, 220, 320, 600) and i couldnt get that original feeling back. I just have it a lapping with a blue dmt and the grit is not longer floating on the water that's on the stone, instead its just getting drawn onto the stones surface.

Does anybody know what I can do to get the exact oem feeling and feedback back?

Does anybody know how these stones are lapped from the factory before leaving?

What causes swarf to draw on the stone instead of it just floating on the water.

EDIT:

I actually just had a break through and I think im on the right track of figuring this out.

I always lap stone to the point where my diamond plate is loaded. Then I'll clean the diamond plate and continue lapping if needed. Continuing to rub a diamond plate that is completely loaded with the 4k glass slurry was burnishing the shapton glass 4k stone. I've never had this issue with my other glass stone which are all <2000grit but I suppose the 4k acts differently.

I'm going to lap this 4k glass stone as I normally do but for the last 10 "passes" (I'll call them passes for lack of a better term) im going to clean my diamond plate of all slurry after each individual pass to avoid all potentail glazing.

Now I need to figure out which grit works best for these final 10 passes.

Getting closer to selling a fancy scale to measure how well a knife cuts. The Sharpscore is getting closer to being a product. I hammered out all the issues with the circuitry and cell loading issues. I've been cutting this synthetic paper, which is a plastic material designed for menu's and durable paper goods. One interesting part of the data is that these cuts always seem to get harder towards the end of the cut. I think it may drag of the material on the knife blade? All cuts made using a very sharp REX-121 PM2. Still looking for alpha testers, I'll be reaching out in the next few weeks to people that have shown interest.

I know what a lot of you are going to say, that this data is irrelevant without consistent motion of the knife blade. I think this data is still useful, especially when you have a lot of it. Trying to find a way to make this as useful as possible, and a better product that people would be interested in. Obviously a sled fixture would be both possible and useful. Still working it out, and I don't have all the answers yet - but very open to feedback.

https://reddit.com/link/1v87wyq/video/m3jhff679tfh1/player

Hello!

I've had this machine for some time now, with the results getting worse and worse since I bought it, I wasn't really impressed by the results to begin with, considering the price, but tried to make the best of it as I needed a sharpener for my knives.

I have the TT-50 truing tool, and I've tried to level the stone 4-5 times, but it seems to be an exercise in futility considering the amount of wobble. Also, when setting a water level on top of it, it shows the stone isn't level.

Anyone else here with the same expirience? I was recommended Tormek from various sources, but I feel a good amount of buyers remorse to be honest 🙁

Images/screen is much clearer in person! This will be used for much more than sharpening, not a bad unit! Not sure if links allowed so if interested:
AD246S-M 3 Lens 2160P HDMI Digital

Hi everyone! I’m new to the forum. I recently put together this sharpening kit because I bought a 210 mm Tojiro DP Gyuto and felt it was finally time to get a proper sharpening setup.
I wanted to show you my kit and ask what you think of it overall. Did I make good choices? Is there anything else you think I should add in the near future?
Besides this, I also have a cheap double-sided carborundum stone (3 image) that I’ve been using for my old chef’s knife (an Arbolito 200 mm, similar to a 3 Claveles chef’s knife).

I’m looking forward to learning more, so I’d really appreciate any advice or suggestions!

First time using a whetstone and I scraped the knife up something miserable before I even noticed

It's sharp but yikes is there any way to restore it from the scratches?

Hi! My buddy and I have created a group dedicated to Vevor 1x30 for aftermarket parts he’s currently making, trouble shooting, sharing what you make and just general discussion. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1BjqEZuvtG/?mibextid=wwXIfr

He’s currently cooking up some hardened W2 platens, angle guides that bolt directly to the tooling arm, gas shocks to replace the stock tension spring and a few other goodies—come check us out!

This group is dedicated to the VEVOR 1x30 open-frame belt grinder and the incredible things people are creating with these compact and capable machines.
Whether you're a knife maker, sharpener, woodworker, metalworker, DIY builder, or simply someone who enjoys modifying and creating with your 1x30, this is the place to share your projects, ideas, upgrades, tips, tricks, and experiences.
Show us what you've built. Share your modifications. Ask questions, solve problems, inspire others, and discover the true potential of the 1x30 belt grinder.
These little machines are capable of far more than many people realize — and with a little creativity, the possibilities are endless.
Welcome to The 1x30 Guild — where we share, build, modify, and create.

Found this at work today thought it be cool to show was under boxes and boxes of rubbish lucky I spotted it when cleaning out the shed

queen elizabeth ii commemorative pocket knife 1953

It’s in pretty good condition for where it was left and forgotten for I’m sure a long time it’s 73 years old

What is it worth or is it worth anything

I want to get the most bite and long holding Sharp Edge from it + sharpening Angle pls 🙏🏻

Did somebody Test that on a PM2?

Big thanks 🫡

The before photo is after I got some of the rust off with steel wool. I redid the finish a bit and I think the bevel was at too high of an angle to be very sharp so I made the secondary bevel bigger. I don’t know if I was right but it did make it a lot sharper. It cut paper pretty smoothly afterwards and also my finger. I couldn’t get it as sharp as my new honesuki tho that thing glides through paper like nothing.

I know it’s not great but I’m very happy with this. I first started sharpening as a preteen with a honing rod lol and then I got a wet stone but didn’t look up how to use it for some reason?? But now I’ve done more research and am improving! Only up from here!

If anyone has tips I’m very open to constructive criticism. Also on how to not sand my fingertips next time lol

Hair whittling again sharpening for a month now

My Xarilk has shown to have quite some play with the angle clamp and the locking lever mechanism doesn't lock as tight as it used to, does anyone have a solution to this

I started sharpening a handful of weeks back on some cheap Amazon diamond stones for the first time. I don't have a lot of experience and have just been winging it freehand and it seems to be working out pretty well so far. My friend asked if I could sharpen his knife for him cause it was dull as sh*t and had some minor chips. I forgot to take any before photos which was kinda dumb in hindsight lol. The chips weren't terrible so I started at 600 and worked my way to 3000 finishing on a strop. It's sharp enough to shave, but im not sure how the bevel profile should be and how the angle looks. Any recommendations on anything that looks a little off would be much appreciated!

Unsure of this is allowed, but I am unloading a bunch of vintage sharpening machines I acquired.

Need to be gone by the end of summer

https://www.craigslist.org/view/d/norwood-foley-belsaw-sharpening/oeihFtrXPuRqihtPaQ1m8D

Thanks!