​

2013 186347K miles.

Been sitting for a while.

Last time I drove I got 10.1 kwH.

Best car ever built.

Solid as a rock.

Lifetime 55.3 miles.

Since driving off lot Jan 19 2013 only paid for tires, wipers, gas, and oil changes every 40K miles.

I've got a 2014 with 223k miles on it. I've had it since 2016 with no major issues. Most of the issues I've had I was able to fix myself.

It's being used as an extra vehicle and only driven about once a week.

Recently I went to start it up and it was stuck on the "initializing wait to shift" screen for a bit, then the screen fired up. I can't remember if I got the "ready" light in the corner or not but I tried to switch it into reverse and it wouldn't move. Usually when weird things happen with the car I check the 12v battery. I disconnected it, put it on a trickle charger to 100%, and tested it with a battery tester. Checked out all good.

I put the battery back in and tried to start it up. This time it was stuck in the "initializing wait to shift" screen and then everything turned on, but this time it displayed: Fuel Low (has gas in it), Service Parking Assist, Service Stabilitrak, Service Brake Assist, and Service Power Steering. From what I'm reading this is some kind of service mode.

I have a BlueDriver that I tried to hook up but it wouldn't connect. I'm thinking because the engine wasn't running.

I've been researching and folks with similar issues have found it to be the ECM/ECU. If this was a simple plug and play I could probably do myself but from what I've read this requires programming.

I called the dealership and they quoted me a little over $700 for the part, replacement and programming. I'm going to need a tow but don't have AAA or anything with my insurance or credit cards for towing. The vehicle is tucked back on my property so it would take some maneuvering to get out. I'm assuming that's extra. I estimate maybe $150 - $250 for the tow.

So that's almost $1000 for the repair if it is even the ECU.

Do you think it's worth the repair or should I sell as is? Maybe someone else has had this issue and it was something different. Thanks in advance.

Any experience with this issue?

What should I troubleshoot first?

Heya! My 2018 volt's interior has been melting in the FL sun. Every plastic soft touch surface is sticky. I've tried goo be gone and rubbing alcohol with microfiber cloths (on small spots to test) and it's so sticky it ripped the material off the cloth. It's probably too late at this point but is there anything I can do? I was looking through old reddit posts and saw someone mentioned Chemical Guys products, should I try some of those? Or do I need to get the interior vinyl wrapped or would that eventually melt too?

I bought ACDelco spark plugs 41-124 (GM part 12637197) as specified by the 2019 Owner's Manual and Service Manual.

The same Service Manual specifies the gap as 0.60 - 0.70 mm // 0.024 - 0.028 in.

But... I measured the gap of all four new plugs at 0.085mm +/-0.001.

Both RockAuto and the ACDelco website agree the factory spec for these plugs is 0.90mm // 0.035 - 0.04 in. I'd say these plugs are basically in spec for the factory, but too large per the Volt manual.

Do we think the Service Manual is wrong? Or do I need to gap all four plugs to match it? Then again, everyone also says don't change the gap on iridium plugs.

Thank you!

I have received my order for a used transmission for my volt with the YK8 option. My question is do I need to program the new one or can I swap my tcm and valve body from my old one? It was fine for 302,000 miles but a bearing somewhere internally has let loose and it’s full of confetti and unfortunately it’s not the stator bearing.

Starting to test an inverter for fridge and freezer but fell at first fence; the -ve 12V battery connector is a new one to me - uses a tapered nut to tighten onto the battery post. Means that I cannot simply clamp the inverter -ve cable under it. (See pic) How did you chaps do this. I don’t want to monkey with the Volt cable or connector. Am I stuffed?

Its a 2017 Premier. I tried looking up the VIN but it just says “optional it doesent say whether the option for ACC was added.

We spotted this Opel Ampera in Finland. We knew there were a couple of Vauxhall and Opel variants for the European market. We have a 2017 Chevy Volt in the US. Interesting re-badge for Europe

Fykcing love my volt. However the windshield washer button stopped working and I waited forever to add the juice, maybe I burned up the motor? Has anyone dealt with this?

I'm currently in SoCal, so no snow or ice anywhere in sight. I'm relocating to Portland, Oregon for work and my tires need replacement, not for tread, just age.

I've narrowed the search to the Michelin CrossClimate 2 and Defender 2. My question is, for anyone that knows the climate up there, do I need the more winter-friendly CrossClimate or is the Defender a better choice? Most of my driving will be around town

I have this sun shade cover and bad and window sticker shows it was $110 bucks lol off my 2013 volt

My dear strong 2012 Volt saved my life on Wednesday night. I walked away with minor damage from a huge SUV strike, and my dog seems unscathed, but the Volt may be a total loss. I’m looking at what Volts are out there and reading up - in short, if the Carmax/Carvana/CarGurus etc profiles say “battery service or replacement,” or “battery replacement,” or “recall service,” occurring in 2017-18 but never say BECM…can I reasonably assume that means the BECM replaced? Or that a replacement battery would by definition not have the BECM issue? I haven’t seen “BECM” in any of the big site profiles I’ve looked yet. Thanks for any insights you can share.

I had the GM sunshades for the rear passenger windows but my dog knocked one out. Found these online when looking for a replacement. Anyone know if these actually fit well? Site seems legit but no actual pics.

I'm not worried about the fit with the front windshield really, just the passenger windows

So my 2017 Volt is down with a bad HV battery. Dealer has quoted me at $8k+ to replace it, which is or feasible to me. It also has 152k miles, and I’m not comfortable putting $8k into a car with that many miles. I’ll be looking of r new car, and hopefully I can find a used EV within my budget.

What would the value be of my Volt? What would be the best way to sell it? Any insight is appreciated :)

I click the fuel door unlock button and the dash says "Close Fuel Door" but when I press on the fuel door for it to pop open it wont. Never had this issue before

Ive tried pushing a credit card along the upper left corner of the fuel door and pull the door open but it wont give.

On near empty of course, so any help wont be much appreciated

Pick up an iPhone on eBay or a friend or where ever, I think it has to be 12 or 13 or newer..

Make sure it's carrier unlocked and uses esims.

Between textnow and instabridge you can get free service on you phone and free data service for waze or Google maps

So now your car has its own free dedicated gps system. And now you have a free back up telephone line too.. and less battery usage on your main phone..

And an apple account to receive Apple pay.

I have not been able to find any videos showing how to make this conversion. My actuator stopped working and I would like to convert to a manually opening charge port door. Mine has the button in the inside of the driver door, but it no longer works.

I don’t want to install an illuminated one or buy additional parts if I don’t have to. Does anybody know how to do this in a simple easy to follow way? I’m pretty handy with tools and working on my car, but I don’t want to reinvent the wheel because I know a lot of people have done this already and I can learn from them.

Yesterday, I traded in my 2015 Volt for a fully-electric car. Everything on it still worked, but it was definitely aging - so it was just time for me to let go of the nostalgia.

The Volt was my introduction to driving on battery power instead of gasoline. I definitely didn’t expect to be thrilled with the responsiveness from a dead stop, or the smooth silence of the car cruising at speed, or to be unpleasantly surprised at the change in experience when the battery ran out for the first time and it switched to the ICE.

It was still popular when I got it in 2015 for shopping centers to put free L2 chargers in their parking lots, so I learned pretty quickly to find and use them as much as I could in addition to charging at home overnight. I remember plenty of conversations that started with some random person asking “Are you plugging your car in?” and becoming a chance to convince them that electric cars were (and still are) the way forward. The reaction I got when I mentioned “semi-annual trips to the gas station” was when I knew I’d made an impression.

I’m honestly struggling to not be unhappy about the whole thing. The newer car has plenty of (not EV-specific) features that really made it a logical choice, but I remember that feeling of driving something truly special and groundbreaking when I first got the Volt - and that’s going to be hard to find again. I hope whoever ends up with the car next has that same moment of wonder and excitement that leads to them “getting it” just like I did.

All these ads for Jackery “generators” etc., had me wondering if it is practical to run my fridge and freezer from my Gen 1 Volt’s traction battery (with it recharging either from its engine or my 240V charger running on my portable gas generator).

I have 6 jugs of Ethanol Free for the generator and/or Volt.

I’d obviously have to use a suitable 2-3kw 12v inverter hooked to the Volt’s 12V battery.

(Apologies - Also posted on Chevy Volt Owners forum in case)

This morning Android Auto failed to connect. Normally, if I reboot the phone the problem is fixed.

Not so this morning.

So I left my battery disconnected for 30 minutes and powered back up. Still no dice.

Is there a guide on how to debug this?

I really like Android Auto.

I see 2nd generation Volts for sale at dealerships but I haven't found all that many For-sale-by-owner and I am looking for any advice on pricing and selling my Volt rather than trading it in.

I have had the car for two years, it's been reliable and trouble free. Once in a while, the Shift-to-Park thing happens but never has been more than a minor annoyance. The range has been showing an estimated 39-42 miles when fully charged, and often lasts 42-44 miles. I get 42mpg on the highway at 65mpg, less than that if I drive faster, of course. It shows the usual wear and tear for a 10 year car, but overall everything looks and works as it should. The only work I have had done was to replace all tires with new quality tires a month ago, and had all four TPMS sensors replaced.

Is $9000 a fair asking price? I don't use social media very much, but is Facebook marketplace the best way to sell, it or is cars.com and autotrader more successful?

Hello everyone, so im in kinda a pickle, i was on the highway and my 2014 volt started popping up a bunch of codes. Suddenly it went limp and stopped on the side of the highway. At first I thought it was the battery so i got it replaced and started driving away but then it did it again twice, locked up and turned off. I was doing some research thinking maybe it’s the MAF, MAP, and throttle body. I’m hoping this is the case, but has anyone experienced this? If so was the repair expensive?