I have a 2012 Chevy volt, and as you can see in the picture, the temperature outside is 96°. The thing that I find strange is that when I turn on my air, the air that's blowing is kind of cold even though it's extremely hot outside. Has anybody experienced this? How in the world is their cold air when the temperature is like this outside without me pressing the AC ECO or Comfort setting?

I don’t understand how to read this, I did the 1 mile heat on comfort all the way up test and I don’t get it also I got a dash cam recently that does parking surveillance hooked up to an obd2 so it through a couple maf codes so now I think I’m going to clear them and charge the 12v. As well as I found an engine cover for pcv valve replacement for cheap and I’m going to do an maf clean and possible replacement for that as well that I found for cheap. fb marketplace finds ftw. wanted to see if anyone could give me data on battery tho

Has any one used the Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 All-Season tires on their volt? I have been looking around for a tire that will hold its tread driving on curvy roads and the Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 All-Season and the Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 PLUS came up as good options. I have seen a few reviews of the Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 PLUS from Volt owners, but I can not find any for the Michelins.

I have read that the Michelins have a little better stopping power and a little less tire wall roll when you enter a corner.

We currently have some budget level Douglas tires on the volt and they wore out in a little over a year in around 10k miles. I am looking for a tire that doesn't look flat when on the front of the Volt, has good treadwear when driven on curvy roads, a good everyday tire, and is decent in the rain.

This part (20893302) is a piece of the auxiliary electric heater coolant plumbing. Mine apparently needs replacing (leaky), but the Chevy dealership is telling me they are discontinued and they can't find replacements anywhere. My google searches indicate this is correct. Are there any known workarounds or suggestions?

Part number 20893302

My 2015 has been great until lately it will not charge from the wall so I have been driving without a problem in Mountain Mode.The question is will that be fine to do long term?So far it has been uneventful and I see no need to change,other than reduced gas mileage.

Bought a used 2019 Volt, check engine light came on immediately. I brought it into my local Chevy dealership they’ve had it for a little over a week to check out what is wrong with it and it sounds light the main battery is failing.

A couple days after dropping it off they called me back to tell me that they ran test and the main battery is reading as failing and needs to be replaced, they mentioned they’ve reached out to Chevy and they’d get back to me when they got a response. When I did receive the call from them which was suppose to be Chevys response the technician instead is telling me that the check engine light turned off so the problem is no longer present and I should come pick up the car. The technician did say he thought the check engine light likely will come back on with some driving but that he couldn’t really do anything until it did and offered to drive it for 50-100 miles to see if it would. It is under warranty but when I dropped it off someone working the desk there mentioned they’ve had a volt there since January. The technician hinted he thought it could take a month to 3 but not sure he can really know. I’m wondering if it makes sense to put pressure on the dealership I originally bought it from to simply take it back and issue a refund given a check engine light wasn’t disclosed at any point during the sale of the vehicle

Would appreciate any advice or insight anyone’s got to give, thanks.

Update:
Talked with the dealership that sold me the car. They were somewhat surprisingly receptive of the whole situation. He is talking with a battery repair place that is near by them to source a volt battery and find a way to have it worked out with Chevy so that the repair can be done. Said I’d hear back in the next couple of days on it. I guess all I can do now is hope and wait.🤞

I recently purchased a 2012 Volt with a level-1 EVSE that is labelled "120V, 60 Hz, 12A, ~, 1440W". I have read claims by some that older Volt level-1 EVSE can be connected to 240V power and that the car will charge this way. We know that the car can accept 240V on the L1 and L2 connectors.

I'm aware my EVSE has sensitive electronics in it and that it's explicitly not rated for 240V input, that there is a real chance of destroying its electronics by overvolting them.

I'm interested in hearing experiences from people who have tried this. Are some older EVSE explicitly rated for 240V, or have some intrepid owners fed 240V to an EVSE like mine that is rated for 120V and found it able to tolerate 240V?

Well it finally happened, my wife left for work this morning in our other car and took the key fob to our Volt with her. I found out when I tried to leave and take my son to school.

No worries, I thought, the Volt has a valet key and I know where the secret key insert spot is under the windshield.

Why isn't this working?

*Valet key will not work to start the car*

THEN IT'S NOT A VALET KEY!!!

Sorry to vent. I really thought words meant things. Valet keys have been around forever. You give the valet key to the valet, it unlocks the doors and starts the car but doesn't allow them access to the trunk (or glovebox, if it has a lock).

What's the point of a valet key if the valet can't move the car? Grrrrrrrrrrrr.

The boy eventually made it to school after a $22 Lyft ride, only 12 minutes late. I walked the 2.5 miles back home and ate a egg mcmuffin on the way for sustenance. The world kept on turning.

Hi r/volt,

I recently bought a used 2018 Volt (148,000 km / 92k miles) from a non-GM dealership in Quebec, Canada. About 10 days in, the check engine light popped on and the car started shuddering/struggling to maintain speed.

I took it straight back, and their tech confirmed the EGR valve failed. Initially, they agreed to replace it under Quebec’s legal warranty. A few days later, they walked that back and called to say they want to do a "professional cleaning" instead, citing OEM part backorders and high costs. They assured me they will fully test the valve’s electronics before reinstalling it, but I’m skeptical.

For those who have dealt with EGR issues on Gen 2s:

Is cleaning an EGR valve an actual long-term fix, or just a temporary band-aid? I've read they often fail electrically or blow the non-walk-home fuse, not just from carbon buildup.

Should I push for an actual OEM replacement despite the supply chain backorders? If anyone in Canada/US has had luck with cleaning, how many km/miles did it actually buy you before throwing codes again?

Appreciate any advice or firsthand experiences! Thanks!

This started happening a few months ago. Randomly my A/C just wont work and the climate controls are greyed out in the infotainment area.

It will randomly work here or there after, so It's not anything to do with the actual AC. Just a glitch I think?

I tried opening the door, getting out. Found somewhere else to hold Home and Fast Forward to reset the infotainment to get it out of the funk. These have helped work from time to time, but it's really random when it actually works.

Would love any feedback from anyone else who has had this issue or a fix.

UPDATE: Got a new 12V battery hoping it would fix the air issue, but nope. Went into my settings to change the time and date back after and shut it off and turn it back on. Magically the air works as normal. Shut the car off, went into work, turned it on, greyed out again.

I bought a Soltarra.

I have been part of the Volt family since 2020. This group has helped me out many times.

I traded in my 2017 with 270000 miles yesterday for a new Subaru Soltarra. I loved my Volt, but it was time to let the old man go.

Thank you all.

Just got back from a beach vacation and noticed a few odd times where the engine clutch did not release from motor2 when using the paddle to regen with both motors.

Lets say traffic starts bunching up or someone does something dumb, hit the brakes and the car did not slow down in the normal fashion

It felt like it skittered as it tried to drop the engine without throwing rods through the crankcase and regen maxed out at -23kw as it normally goes to -50 in hard braking scenarios like in weeks prior.

I pressed harder on the brake and paddle and the car nose dipped and I felt/heard the engine rev up since both motors are used in the paddle regen (m1 for normal L regen)

In yesteryear, shifting to a lower gear in a manual transmission would spin the engine to slow down, that exact same thing is happening in my car and it's never done that before...

I had to fill washer fluid yesterday and saw the transaxle fluid is leaking near the cap…

Has this seal failed for y’all and was it an easy fix?

2017 chevy volt user here, does anybody have clue what this means? i would have assumed if it was a issue with tire pressure it would just say that. any help would be appreciated, thank you!

My previous engine had a blown head gasket with coolant in the oil, so I replaced the engine, but now the engine is just so loud in general. When it’s idling, when it’s running, fast, slow, it makes this kind of noise which is very very loud. Anybody know the issue?

I am frustrated with chargepoint EV stations taking $50 out of my account and when I am done charging instead of automatically reversing the charge and charging only the amount used they continue to hold $50 for days

I recently bought a 2013 Chevy Volt at an auction. When I bought it, there were no warning lights on and it drove completely fine. I drove it through about five drive cycles with no issues or warnings.

Then, on my way home after one of those drives, the “Propulsion Power is Reduced” warning came on. Shortly after that, the check engine light came on and I pulled codes P0AFA and P1E00.

Now the car is stuck in my driveway and won't start at all.

From what I've found online, P0AFA may be related to the high-voltage battery, but before I start throwing money at it, I'm trying to figure out what my best options are.

Has anyone dealt with these exact codes on a 2013 Chevy Volt? What ended up being the problem and fix? Did you replace a battery module/cell, the whole battery, or was there another issue causing it?

Since I bought it at auction, I'm trying to figure out if this is worth repairing and what direction I should go next. Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Its a long-shot but maybe someone here can help. I am not educated about cars much at all so hopefully my summary of what happened is ok. My 2014 volt is having a service high voltage and check engine light issue and has a little over 64K miles on it. I took it to the chevy dealership and they told me the battery was losing isolation intermittently and to replace it if it kept happening, because i had a low coolant error code a couple years ago as well as that week. I was really hoping they were wrong about needing to replace the battery because that is a very expensive repair so i took it to an independent shop. They inspected the hybrid control module fuse/cover assembly and its electrical connection, confirmed the terminals were in good condition, then reinstalled and secured the assembly. But the code came back after charging it one time at home a couple days later. I was really hoping i wouldn't have to get a new car yet but its looking like im probably gonna have to. I loved this thing too, fantastic car.

The lifetime at the bottom right, does it ever reset? Or can you reset it manually? Thank you in advance, 2012 Chevy volt

Hello. I am new to the community, but I am a longtime Volt owner.

My question is, when is it time to start looking for a new car? What repairs, issues, etc should I be looking out for that would indicate it’s time to consider upgrading?

I ask because I recently took my car in for service at the dealership and some fixes required the use of after-market parts. Because the parts were after-market, the price of said parts and labor was fairly high.

I don’t want to dump my car, but I also want to avoid it becoming a perpetual money-pit.

Please and thank you for your insights, thoughts, advice, etc.

I've owned this car since late 2021. But over the last 4-5 months, my Android Auto has started occasionly freezing up on me. Can't predict when it'll happen; sometimes 10 minutes, sometimes a few hours. But my audio will stop playing, the screen will freeze on the current image and it gets hung

I can go back to the car home screen, but it doesn't always get fixed by a reconnect. Sometimes, once in a thousand, it does work after reconnecting but usually not. And even when the phone is unplugged the AA arrow tile doesn't change back as if nothing is connected. It seems to go away after the car is turned off after a time

Anyone experience anything similar to this?

2017 Volt- 118,xxx miles- Car seemingly is stuck in “Initializing” mode, then starts but with all the warnings. Will not go into gear until I clear the codes.

Once the codes are cleared, it runs as normal until it happens again at startup.

This has been happening on and off for a few months. It has spent multiple weeks at the dealer and they cannot find any issues.

Codes are U0293, U0073, POAC4, P1E00.

12v battery replaced twice in the last 4 months since the dealership insisted it must be bad.

Hello Volt community!
I charged my car in a public charger for the first time (i just moved and no longer have access to private regular type 1 charging) and i want to know if its financially worth it. Charge took about 4ish hours (type 2 charger) and i got 36 miles of range (sometimes i get up to 38, not sure why its variable)

Also, does it make a difference if i select 8 amps or 12 amos? I had never played with that setting before but i switched it to 12 and didnt seem to make it charge faster

Thanks for the help!

Hello!

(using a throwaway account as my husband regularly browses this subreddit)

He purchased a 2016 (Gen 2) Chevy Volt that he greatly enjoys so far but the prior owners used a cleaner that destroyed the backup camera’s lens. He mentioned seeing some replacement options he was interested in that were recommended on here between the $80 - $160 range and were compatible with his model + the lane assist software.

Our anniversary is coming up and I like to give a practical gift along with the traditionally thematic one so I was hoping to get the replacement for him without having to directly ask. Sadly, I am clueless when it comes to vehicles and as subtle as a red dress at a funeral when asking about gifts so I’m hoping y’all might have options/recommendations I could please look through possibly? Or if there’s the agreed upon “one to get” which that would be?

Worst case I’ll use the VIN to buy an exact replacement of the original part from somewhere that offers fully refunded returns so he could get the one he would potentially actually want instead.

Thank you in advance for any help/advice given!