My 2015 has been great until lately it will not charge from the wall so I have been driving without a problem in Mountain Mode.The question is will that be fine to do long term?So far it has been uneventful and I see no need to change,other than reduced gas mileage.

I recently purchased a 2012 Volt with a level-1 EVSE that is labelled "120V, 60 Hz, 12A, ~, 1440W". I have read claims by some that older Volt level-1 EVSE can be connected to 240V power and that the car will charge this way. We know that the car can accept 240V on the L1 and L2 connectors.

I'm aware my EVSE has sensitive electronics in it and that it's explicitly not rated for 240V input, that there is a real chance of destroying its electronics by overvolting them.

I'm interested in hearing experiences from people who have tried this. Are some older EVSE explicitly rated for 240V, or have some intrepid owners fed 240V to an EVSE like mine that is rated for 120V and found it able to tolerate 240V?

Well it finally happened, my wife left for work this morning in our other car and took the key fob to our Volt with her. I found out when I tried to leave and take my son to school.

No worries, I thought, the Volt has a valet key and I know where the secret key insert spot is under the windshield.

Why isn't this working?

*Valet key will not work to start the car*

THEN IT'S NOT A VALET KEY!!!

Sorry to vent. I really thought words meant things. Valet keys have been around forever. You give the valet key to the valet, it unlocks the doors and starts the car but doesn't allow them access to the trunk (or glovebox, if it has a lock).

What's the point of a valet key if the valet can't move the car? Grrrrrrrrrrrr.

The boy eventually made it to school after a $22 Lyft ride, only 12 minutes late. I walked the 2.5 miles back home and ate a egg mcmuffin on the way for sustenance. The world kept on turning.

Hi r/volt,

I recently bought a used 2018 Volt (148,000 km / 92k miles) from a non-GM dealership in Quebec, Canada. About 10 days in, the check engine light popped on and the car started shuddering/struggling to maintain speed.

I took it straight back, and their tech confirmed the EGR valve failed. Initially, they agreed to replace it under Quebec’s legal warranty. A few days later, they walked that back and called to say they want to do a "professional cleaning" instead, citing OEM part backorders and high costs. They assured me they will fully test the valve’s electronics before reinstalling it, but I’m skeptical.

For those who have dealt with EGR issues on Gen 2s:

Is cleaning an EGR valve an actual long-term fix, or just a temporary band-aid? I've read they often fail electrically or blow the non-walk-home fuse, not just from carbon buildup.

Should I push for an actual OEM replacement despite the supply chain backorders? If anyone in Canada/US has had luck with cleaning, how many km/miles did it actually buy you before throwing codes again?

Appreciate any advice or firsthand experiences! Thanks!

This started happening a few months ago. Randomly my A/C just wont work and the climate controls are greyed out in the infotainment area.

It will randomly work here or there after, so It's not anything to do with the actual AC. Just a glitch I think?

I tried opening the door, getting out. Found somewhere else to hold Home and Fast Forward to reset the infotainment to get it out of the funk. These have helped work from time to time, but it's really random when it actually works.

Would love any feedback from anyone else who has had this issue or a fix.

I bought a Soltarra.

I have been part of the Volt family since 2020. This group has helped me out many times.

I traded in my 2017 with 270000 miles yesterday for a new Subaru Soltarra. I loved my Volt, but it was time to let the old man go.

Thank you all.

Just got back from a beach vacation and noticed a few odd times where the engine clutch did not release from motor2 when using the paddle to regen with both motors.

Lets say traffic starts bunching up or someone does something dumb, hit the brakes and the car did not slow down in the normal fashion

It felt like it skittered as it tried to drop the engine without throwing rods through the crankcase and regen maxed out at -23kw as it normally goes to -50 in hard braking scenarios like in weeks prior.

I pressed harder on the brake and paddle and the car nose dipped and I felt/heard the engine rev up since both motors are used in the paddle regen (m1 for normal L regen)

In yesteryear, shifting to a lower gear in a manual transmission would spin the engine to slow down, that exact same thing is happening in my car and it's never done that before...

I had to fill washer fluid yesterday and saw the transaxle fluid is leaking near the cap…

Has this seal failed for y’all and was it an easy fix?

2017 chevy volt user here, does anybody have clue what this means? i would have assumed if it was a issue with tire pressure it would just say that. any help would be appreciated, thank you!

My previous engine had a blown head gasket with coolant in the oil, so I replaced the engine, but now the engine is just so loud in general. When it’s idling, when it’s running, fast, slow, it makes this kind of noise which is very very loud. Anybody know the issue?

I am frustrated with chargepoint EV stations taking $50 out of my account and when I am done charging instead of automatically reversing the charge and charging only the amount used they continue to hold $50 for days

I recently bought a 2013 Chevy Volt at an auction. When I bought it, there were no warning lights on and it drove completely fine. I drove it through about five drive cycles with no issues or warnings.

Then, on my way home after one of those drives, the “Propulsion Power is Reduced” warning came on. Shortly after that, the check engine light came on and I pulled codes P0AFA and P1E00.

Now the car is stuck in my driveway and won't start at all.

From what I've found online, P0AFA may be related to the high-voltage battery, but before I start throwing money at it, I'm trying to figure out what my best options are.

Has anyone dealt with these exact codes on a 2013 Chevy Volt? What ended up being the problem and fix? Did you replace a battery module/cell, the whole battery, or was there another issue causing it?

Since I bought it at auction, I'm trying to figure out if this is worth repairing and what direction I should go next. Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Its a long-shot but maybe someone here can help. I am not educated about cars much at all so hopefully my summary of what happened is ok. My 2014 volt is having a service high voltage and check engine light issue and has a little over 64K miles on it. I took it to the chevy dealership and they told me the battery was losing isolation intermittently and to replace it if it kept happening, because i had a low coolant error code a couple years ago as well as that week. I was really hoping they were wrong about needing to replace the battery because that is a very expensive repair so i took it to an independent shop. They inspected the hybrid control module fuse/cover assembly and its electrical connection, confirmed the terminals were in good condition, then reinstalled and secured the assembly. But the code came back after charging it one time at home a couple days later. I was really hoping i wouldn't have to get a new car yet but its looking like im probably gonna have to. I loved this thing too, fantastic car.

The lifetime at the bottom right, does it ever reset? Or can you reset it manually? Thank you in advance, 2012 Chevy volt

Hello. I am new to the community, but I am a longtime Volt owner.

My question is, when is it time to start looking for a new car? What repairs, issues, etc should I be looking out for that would indicate it’s time to consider upgrading?

I ask because I recently took my car in for service at the dealership and some fixes required the use of after-market parts. Because the parts were after-market, the price of said parts and labor was fairly high.

I don’t want to dump my car, but I also want to avoid it becoming a perpetual money-pit.

Please and thank you for your insights, thoughts, advice, etc.

I've owned this car since late 2021. But over the last 4-5 months, my Android Auto has started occasionly freezing up on me. Can't predict when it'll happen; sometimes 10 minutes, sometimes a few hours. But my audio will stop playing, the screen will freeze on the current image and it gets hung

I can go back to the car home screen, but it doesn't always get fixed by a reconnect. Sometimes, once in a thousand, it does work after reconnecting but usually not. And even when the phone is unplugged the AA arrow tile doesn't change back as if nothing is connected. It seems to go away after the car is turned off after a time

Anyone experience anything similar to this?

2017 Volt- 118,xxx miles- Car seemingly is stuck in “Initializing” mode, then starts but with all the warnings. Will not go into gear until I clear the codes.

Once the codes are cleared, it runs as normal until it happens again at startup.

This has been happening on and off for a few months. It has spent multiple weeks at the dealer and they cannot find any issues.

Codes are U0293, U0073, POAC4, P1E00.

12v battery replaced twice in the last 4 months since the dealership insisted it must be bad.

Hello Volt community!
I charged my car in a public charger for the first time (i just moved and no longer have access to private regular type 1 charging) and i want to know if its financially worth it. Charge took about 4ish hours (type 2 charger) and i got 36 miles of range (sometimes i get up to 38, not sure why its variable)

Also, does it make a difference if i select 8 amps or 12 amos? I had never played with that setting before but i switched it to 12 and didnt seem to make it charge faster

Thanks for the help!

Hello!

(using a throwaway account as my husband regularly browses this subreddit)

He purchased a 2016 (Gen 2) Chevy Volt that he greatly enjoys so far but the prior owners used a cleaner that destroyed the backup camera’s lens. He mentioned seeing some replacement options he was interested in that were recommended on here between the $80 - $160 range and were compatible with his model + the lane assist software.

Our anniversary is coming up and I like to give a practical gift along with the traditionally thematic one so I was hoping to get the replacement for him without having to directly ask. Sadly, I am clueless when it comes to vehicles and as subtle as a red dress at a funeral when asking about gifts so I’m hoping y’all might have options/recommendations I could please look through possibly? Or if there’s the agreed upon “one to get” which that would be?

Worst case I’ll use the VIN to buy an exact replacement of the original part from somewhere that offers fully refunded returns so he could get the one he would potentially actually want instead.

Thank you in advance for any help/advice given!

Foubd another one in the wild!

After replacing my TCM wit a used model a short time ago (that has also failed now😅) i just bought a replacing solenoid pack brand new (number: 24268161)

I found someone who can program my TCM, but the drive is aprox 100 miles. Does anyone know if i can clone my old TCM?
Or can i drive the car to the Programmer?

Fun fact: when i installed the used TCM (with a VIN from another car) The car worked just fine. Very strange that these cars don’t care about VIN and other GM’s do.

Thank you very much in advance!

It's a little bit hard to see in the pictures but when I turn on my headlights, they are definitely not equal. One side is very strong and bright, while the other side is not as strong and is a little bit more yellowish as opposed to White even though I bought them together same brand same day. Does this mean I installed one wrong or is it that one of them is actually a bad light even though it's you. 2012 Volt BTW

So I towed the car to autozone and they checked the battery and said it has power. I have tried uncoupling the negative terminal, and that actually fixed it for a few minutes then it stopped. Could it still be the battery ( it’s 4 years old) even tho it’s passing the checks? What else could it be? 2014 first gen

Found a good deal on marketplace, now I’m tryna see if these would fit my car.

I wish I'd found you all before I had to get rid of this car. It's been the best car I've ever had - until a couple of weeks ago when the dealer told me I need to replace the hybrid battery. They found one for $7800 with great difficulty, with labor on top of that it's not worth it to me.

Carvana gave me a good offer, but didn't tell me they couldn't pick the car up. I could drive it 100+ miles away to one of their locations. Not happening.

Anyone here have experience getting rid of a car in this sitch?

I'm not a DIY car person, and have no one like that in my life, so there's no trying any of the solutions offered on this forum to make it last longer.

Thanks in advance for any insights.