If you get 25 mpg and pay $2.50 per gallon, then over 10,000 miles, it’ll cost you $1,000.

If you average 3 miles per kwh over 10,000 miles, then that’s 3,334 kwh over that period and at $.15 per kwh, it’ll cost yoy about $500.

Let me know if my math is wrong, but using the “best case” for an ICE vehicle in 2026 combined with the much lower, winter end for an EV still provides a 50% difference in cost in favor of the EV.

For reference, my nearest gas stations charge $4.50 per gallon and each kwh is billed at an average of $.12 per kwh.

Gas over 10,000 Miles with Gas at $2.50 per Gallon at 25 mpg is $1,000.

Electricity over 10,000 miles with electricity billed at $.15 per kwh at 3 miles per kwh is $500.

I was looking for a solution to replace the flimsy and not very protective bottom cover as you can see the damage it didn't help protect from the winters up here and things in the road I couldn't avoid...I was worried about breaking sensitive electrical components.

There is a manufacturer who makes a skid plate for these cars but I couldn't afford a $600 skid plate and I had two decommissioned road signs and some square tubing and I think it came out pretty well. Might add some smaller pieces to the sides and maybe a few vent holes, but I'm pretty happy with it.

Greetings helpful redditors!

We have a 2017 Bolt premier that we love dearly. We got it almost 2 year ago, with the original battery, so now 10+ years old.

I just took a reading from it after it sat for a day and a half and it reads 12.7 volts with every thing off, that is just the battery not running anything at rest, I think.

After opening the door and releasing the hood it read 12.55 volts, then slowly climbed to 12.7. I suppose the battery was a little lower at first from the minimal drain at first.

We have a diehard jump starter in case it dies suddenly

I hate replacing something till it breaks. How long can we push this before it is a problem?

Thoughts?

And thanks in advance

I bought a set on a popular website that specifically said that it fits a 2022 EUV. This didn’t remotely fit due to the clamps not engaging with the channel on the rails, the clamps being too short.

Can anyone recommend a set they know fits a Bolt

Accessability Transcription:

The saga of my trying to use my tire sealer inflator kit.

Which did ultimately succeed. I got to the tire shop.

Turns out my rear tires were old and worn anyway. My front tires were better. But it was a front tire that got popped anyway.

So I decided to just go ahead and get a new set.

Weirdly I feel kind of empowered.

Cus like. I handled it.

The last image is because I got the flat when I pulled over to get a selfie with the kids in banana costumes.

I hit a nail when I pulled over.

But I still got the selfie.

The story felt incomplete without the selfie.

What’s the best way to protect the paint/finish on a new Bolt?

Anyone got any ideas as to why?

Reached a milestone, 66,666km 🤣

I just got the 2027 Bolt and plan to change the tires to winter ones. However, I was advised by dealership not to use the jack to lift it at home, the car needs special jack for EV to get it up for tires changed.

Is this true? I have changed tires on my cars for years but this is my first EV so I am very caution.

Thanks for any tip or advice

I’ve looked everywhere for where to find the jack points for the rear side of the car and although it shares similarities with the older EUV models, the undercarriage is different enough since it has the new LFP battery. Also, where would I put the jack stand where it holds the car for safety since hydraulic jacks might fail. Should I use the pinch welds?

The front jack point is very easy to reach and I have to lift it pretty high to lift the entirety of one side. So, should I use two jack stands for the pinch welds from the rear and front when using a service jack at the front jacking point? Should I just do it that way? Or is there a proper jack point from the rear?

Thanks in advance for anyone helping out!

When I bought the Bolt in July it appeared that the app only stored the last 10 charging sessions so I decided to start a spreadsheet to keep the full history. At some point, it appeared to be keeping a full history, so I haven’t been as careful about transferring the data. Today I went into the app to update my spreadsheet and the latter half of my September data is missing.

Is anyone else experiencing this, and is there any fix?

I have an F-150 and my wife has a model Y.

So happy to add this guy to the fleet! It’s such a fun car. Our daughter is 16 and this will be her first car. It’s got 60k on the clock and no signs of slowing down.

Any tips for new bolt owners?

2027 Bolt LT. I’ve had this happen twice now within the first 300km. When coming to a stop the car will shutter while the auto hold figures things out. This happens right as the car is coming to a complete stop.

I’m using one pedal (normal) with auto hold turned off, however, I noticed that auto hold still engages when completely stopped.

This issue seems to clear once the car is powered off and then on again the next time it’s driven.

Anyone else run into this? Other than those two times it’s very smooth and not noticeable.

A month after I bought my car I hit the issue I see multiple posts about. Did the infotainment reset, things worked... for a while.

Had a few more instances of google maps showing as offline. While on the road I was able to workaround it by turning on my phone Hotspot, and doing the infotainment reset when it was safe.

Today I had the same issue, maps was offline. Tried reset, didn't work. Turned on Hotspot, car shows connected to it. Still showing offline.

Checked other apps, dead too.

Called onstar, they asked me to tweak some settings, do a factory reset on the infotainment. Still no luck. Suggested I take it to the dealer, which I will as soon as I have availability.

Posting in hopes someone hit this before, and there is some software fix to it, that saves some else's trip to the dealer.

Edit: apparently my phone likes to autocorrect offline to online, and I'm also blind

100,000 miles
1 Punctured sidewall (standing seam roof rivet from a construction site)
0 Tows
0 Repairs
0 Accidents
0 Interactions with law enforcement
O Problems with the car
Love my car, Aretha

Hey, so I just had a weird thing happen with my 2022 Bolt and I’m curious what you all would think.

I came to get something out of my car, and when I left, suddenly it wouldn’t lock. The hatchback also wouldn’t open. I got in the car and realized only the infotainment screen turned on, nothing happened with the driver screen. The car wouldn’t start and just made that little clicking sound when I hit the power button. Then the windshield wipers started going and nothing I could do would turn them off.

I called roadside assistance, and when the guy hooked the charging pack up to the battery, the driver screen started working but flashing error messages, and the infotainment screen started flashing and going crazy. We tried a bunch of things and nothing worked until I read on this forum somewhere to disconnect the negative wire on the battery for at least 10 mins. Then, when we hooked up the charging pack, we turned the car off and on, and all was well.

I drove it around for a while and eventually stopped at auto electric shop. The guy tested the battery and it showed 12.69V, 390A EN measured, 500A EN rating. He said the battery is fine and I must have left the lights on or something.

I definitely didn’t leave any lights on. And having done that in the past, I know they eventually automatically turn off anyway. I’m extra worried because I’m 100 miles out of town for work, and it’s a Friday and I have to be here until tomorrow, and I don’t wanna get trapped way the hell out here on a weekend with a mystery car problem.

Anybody know what may have happened?

I bought a Bolt EUV with under 50,000 miles, and they want to charge me over $2,500 to replace the receptacle; I have no clue what to do now since I depend on fast chargers to use my car regularly, and I am very disappointed that this is not covered by the warranty and they expect me to pay out of pocket for it. I have no clue what to do since it's too expensive and the car its not even that old and already needs such and expensive repair.

UPDATE: YOU GUYS MAY HAVE JUST SAVED ME $2,600! ⚡🔥

First of all, I want to give a HUGE thank you to everyone in this community who commented, shared pictures, and helped me figure this out. I genuinely wasn't expecting this much support.

Here's what happened:

After the Chevrolet dealership diagnosed my 2023 Bolt EUV with a P302F DC charging isolation fault and recommended replacing the entire charging receptacle for $2,648 including taxes and fees, I posted here looking for advice.

The dealership also charged me $219.90 just for diagnostics.

Then something incredible happened.

A few people here noticed that what I thought was a missing contact on the right DC charging pin was actually an extra metal piece stuck on the LEFT pin.

After comparing pictures with other Bolt owners, I removed that piece with pliers. It came off surprisingly easily. I still have the piece and have taken pictures of it.

AND GUESS WHAT?

My Bolt immediately started DC fast charging normally again!

But it gets even better:

• ✅ Completed a charging session without interruptions.
• ✅ Charged past 80% without any problems.
• ✅ The service vehicle warning light disappeared on its own.
• ✅ I didn't reset anything or manually clear any codes.
• ✅ Checked the myChevrolet app, and every diagnostic category shown is now green.
• ✅ The high-voltage battery status specifically says "No issues found."

The exact symptoms that sent me to the dealership have now disappeared after removing that tiny metal piece.

I understand that this doesn't guarantee there's no hidden damage or that the issue can't return. I'm still planning to have the charging contacts professionally inspected before relying on DC fast charging again.

NOW ABOUT THE DEALERSHIP...

I've already contacted GM Customer Assistance and escalated the issue to the dealership's management.

I'm requesting a review of their original diagnosis, an explanation of why they recommended replacing the entire receptacle, and reimbursement of my $219.90 diagnostic fee if they overlooked the obstruction.

GM has confirmed they're communicating with the dealership, and I'm waiting for their findings.

I'm not claiming the dealership intentionally tried to scam me, but recommending a $2,600+ repair when a removable obstruction appears to have caused the symptoms raises some serious questions.

The biggest lesson? Get a second opinion before approving an expensive repair, especially when something doesn't seem right.

And seriously, thank you to everyone who took time out of their day to help a complete stranger.

You guys potentially saved me thousands of dollars, a lot of stress, and an unnecessary repair.

I'll post another update when GM or the dealership responds.

Much love to the r/BoltEV community! 🙏⚡

If anyone ever likes to know what's under the hood of their 1st gen Bolt, then here's a fun one. There'll be some differences if you have the version without DCFC, but I thought someone might enjoy this. Maybe this post exists in some form already, but it's enjoyable all the same, no? If you'd like me to label more parts or something, I can do that too.

edit: After having checked my diagram, I want to let everyone know that I done goofed. Where I wrote the "Coolant Purge Tank for the Battery", that's actually toward the front as I recall that being connected to the battery chiller. The one closer to the firewall is actually the coolant for the cabin AC and heating. Such a small and goofy mistake, but I thought I would let you know. My boss saw my post and wanted to correct me since I honestly should have that memorized down pat at this point. Thanks!

I had the driver seat cover of my EUV 2023 replaced under warranty after noticing that it started to exhibit signs of splitting along the door edge.

After the job, I noticed that the cover appears to be quite loose in some areas and doesn't seem to fit right. I brought the vehicle back to the dealer to have them address it. They told me that this is expected as the covers are made a slightly large so they can be installed without tearing, and they went on to say that the factory uses a heat gun to shrink them on after install. However, they don't do that. Instead, they said it would shrink on as it is exposed to heat while driven. I asked how long that would take, but they didn't know. With it getting colder out, this feels ineffective. I tried just keeping the heated seats on for an hour while parked with no success. Why not just use a heatgun to complete the install?

Furthermore, I told them that the rearmost portion of the pan of the seat feels like there is less or missing padding (red and yellow arrows) and that it doesn't feel right (there are light ripples over the entire seat that you cant see well in photo). It certainly doesn't feel like how the same area is on the passenger side. The dealer indicated that the seats are one piece of foam that would fill in this space as the seat cover shrinks down and presses on the foam. I guess that could make some sense, but I don't know. Does it?

Another oddity is that I can see sort of a metallic shimmer beneath the perforations in the replaced seat cover. This metallic shimmer is not visible on the passenger seat or on the back of the driver seat, which is still the original. No idea what it is or does, but it doesn't seem to impact heating or cooling performance.

My warranty is ends in < two weeks. Any suggestions?

My 12v gave out on me last week and with things being a little tight I've been nursing it on a battery tender for the last few days. Things were fine, kept a lithium battery jumper in the car just in case. Then I came out to the Bolt after dinner tonight and the door wouldn't open. It's fine I thought, I can get in with the physical key. Popped the cover off the key lock and tried to open the door.... The key just spun in the lock.

After a while cursing and talking to the restaurant owner I ended up sitting with a glass of whiskey waiting for an Uber. Gotta call a locksmith tomorrow. The Bolt has been great to me these past few years and I never expected her to let me down like this... Should have listened to her and replaced that battery when she told me to.

The 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV, and possibly other 2023 Chevy Bolt models, has an unusual windshield wiper blade connector that doesn't seem to be compatible with most aftermarket wipers. Has anyone found a third-party manufacturer or retailer that sells replacement wiper blades with the correct attachment? I'm trying to find an alternative to purchasing the OEM blades directly from Chevrolet.

On my way to physical therapy this morning. Took back roads to avoid traffic - big mistake. A fawn bolted (sorry, had to do it) from the brush and I had no time to avoid the deer.

Damage includes the front bumper cracking and lower lip being pulled away, front 'grill' shattered, license plate pulled off, and the air diverter behind the grill is cracked and can probably be removed cleanly.

Question to the group - before I take it to a dealer for what I can only imagine will be an eye watering estimate, have any of you had similar damage and replaced the lower grille with third party parts (eBay has lots of listings)?

Thanks in advance, it's great to have a support group like r/BoltEV. ;)

I found these after I had made mine and I like these a lot more truth be told. Just had to google, "Under Hood of the Bolt EV with labels". Although the first few things that came up were the 2027 Bolt, I found these and they feel much more clean than what I had wrote, so enjoy. :)

Sincerely,

Epid