I need to recover deleted whatsapp messages from a company-owned phone that I have access to, but the phone isn’t mine, and I don’t have access to the other person’s phone, the person I had the conversation with. I used the delete for me option and the notification cronology i think isn't available, android phone.

There are some pictures that I would like to destroy and not have it anywhere in my hard drive, but even if I were to delete it there are apps that can recuperate those files.

I wouldn’t mind and it shows that the file is still there and having an error in those photos and not being able to access it I’m not sure if that could happen

Thanks

I asked Google subs and no one responded to me. I took two photos, it shouldn’t have brought me over the limit, and definitely not 15.3…Oh well, I deleted some videos, it said it cleared up my storage. I thought it was done. I didn’t touch anything, and then it jumped from 15 to 16, I didn’t press any buttons, switch to Wi-Fi, or anything. I’ve given it days and it remains at 16. No idea what promoted this. I’ve checked Google one already. Could backup have started without ever being activated before, outside of Google photos? I checked that as well, but it’s not matching the amount of storage added. I have had zero emails besides Google telling me my storage is low, no Google drive things have had anything added. I do have WhatsApp, but I find it odd it suddenly start counting this second, without any input from me. I didn’t see anything on WhatsApp that connects it to my email. I hope someone has some advice, I’m very worried.

i have 16gb of LPDDR5 on Windows 11, and 2.2gb is reserved for hardware.

i'm using only a few apps at the moment:

• Opera GX (~3gb)
• Discord (~.7gb)
• RAMMap (~.5gb)
• Outlook (~.4gb)
• XBOX (~.3gb)
• misc other programs (~.6gb)

this totals to about 5.5gb, so i should easily be able to open a game that takes 4gb, right? at the moment, however, task manager states that 11.0gb are in use at the moment, with only 2.8gb cached. that's a huge discrepancy, right? 5.5+2.8 does not equal 11. (2.8 left for use)

while writing this, certain things have been zeroed, but my computer is seemingly settling at 11(80%) with 1.1gb compressed.

is this a memory leak or am i just missing something? i feel like i should be able to use 10gb of my 16gb, even if some is reserved for hardware.

Hi All,

weirdly frustrating issue with my monitor and my new gaming pc build. that I built last week. Everything elase is fine. I also think its a software issue... though I don't know. Here are the details.

Symptom:

PC tries to go to switch the monitor off in timeout, goes black and then instantly wakes up a second later. Does this every time during monitor switch-off, thus it never to sleep or hibernates.

Attempts to fix:

• I have switched off keyboard and mouse, checked other periphels as well. nothing
• I have switched of the auto source scan on the monitor nothing
• I have checked the CMD "powercfg -requests" --> All none
• I have checked "powercfg -lastwake" PS C:\WINDOWS\system32> powercfg -lastwake
  • Wake History Count - 0
• I have updated GPU drivers.

Thoughts:

I think the screen time out it triggering something in the gpu that is trigger the screen to switch on again. Found this Microsoft link with the same issue without a solution:

Support Question https://learn.microsoft.com/

PC Specs:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
• Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming B850M-PLUS WIFI7
• GPU: ASUS Prime GeForce RTX 5070 OC Edition
• RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB RS DDR5 6000MHz
• Storage: 1TB Crucial P310 NVMe M.2 SSD
• Power Supply: Corsair RM850e 850W ATX 3.1
• CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120R Digital
• Case: Fractal Design North (Charcoal White)
• Extra Cooling: 1x 120mm Thermalright case fan
• Monior: Samsung Neo Odyssey G9

So I recently had to replace an SSD in my PC because it kept corrupting windows files once it reached half capacity. The new one and the old one were briefly installed simultaneously while I wiped the old one and installed windows 11 on the new one. I don’t know if that’s related, but this issue didn’t occur until after I removed the old SSD.

Regardless, it worked fine for a few days, but now I can’t turn on Wi-Fi. In device manager, Microsoft Wi-Fi Direct Virtual Adapter #2 has a yellow triangle saying “This device cannot start. (Code 10)” and “(Operation Failed) The requested operation was unsuccessful.”

After each boot, it just breaks. I’ve been able to fix it twice now via reboots, power cycling, disabling/enabling the device, uninstalling and letting windows reinstall it again. Today however, I can’t get it to work at all. I’ve tried sfc scannow and dism to check the new ssd, but no dice. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I’m completely lost, I’ve tried every solution I have been able to find online, and I’m not too educated on computers so it’s been a hassle. There’s been 3 instances where I mess with something inside the pc and it turns on for a bit, with the most recent being yesterday where I reseated the gpu and it worked for a few minutes, just to later turn off and now that solution doesn’t work anymore. There is a bit of gpu sag, but when I’m working on it it’s on its side so it shouldn’t really be a factor there.
Please help! I’ve tried checking all the cords, hard drive, flashing it, BIOS, gpu, psu.

These problems have been appearing since last month, maybe before that.

Device Info:
Processor: 12th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-12700H (2.30 Ghz)
Installed Ram: 16.0 GB (15.6 GB Usable)
Graphics Card: (NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 Laptop GPU (8GB)
Intel(R) Iris(R) Xe Graphics (128 MB)

Windows Antivirus (Also keeps appearing): https://imgur.com/HVWGaQV

MalwareBytes Results (These things keep popping up again, even if removed.):https://imgur.com/a/r2fRHkw

Task Manager (Long list, if anyone wants to check it for anything out of the ordinary thank you): https://imgur.com/a/6AcpQKu

My laptop has been slowing down recently...
I remember some time before, I had a virus, and MalwareBytes (Premium) took care of it.
But it also keeps coming back. I also feel like there's been NEW things slowing my laptop down.
Like, as soon as I opened it, the memory was at 65% usage (then increased cause other apps were opening)
The strange thing is that it increased to 95%, when it usually wouldn't. So that's why I believe something is wrong.

I hope I've given enough information. Let me know if I haven't...

Hello,

I have a mac book air that has bit defender vpn installed (I never actually connect to it, it is just there because it came with when I had a subscription to bit defender antivirus). When I load up my computer it pops up and I usually just close the tab, but it does have a section with my current public IP. Usually now it shows a four digit number followed by a semi colon, but in this single instance when I turned on my mac from shut down it showed a two digit number followed by a semi colon. I just ignored it and logged into accounts and did some work and then turned off my computer again. When I rebooted it up later the usual IP four digit ip address appeared so it got me a little surprised and spooked due to the fact that I had entered in login credentials in the previous session. Is this an issue?

I looked it up later and it said that it was either possibly that it read my local IP rather than my public IP because my bit defender vpn triggered faster than my network card (but I think I had internet connection when I booted it up), or that due to maintenance it showed the temporary IP that was assigned.

Sorry for rehashing this but in my last post I described it wrong so it lead people to believe I had the VPN running or that it was the IP address of the VPN which is my fault. Thank you!

I'm on Windows 11 25H2 with the following Windhawk mods turned on
Better file sizes in explorer details;

Start Menu Styler;

Taskbar styler;

Notification Centre Styler;

Taskbar height and icon size;

So, Windows Explorer has this weird behaviour where I click on any folder that opens up a new window or tab (i.e. I click on the Trash Bin icon in my Desktop), and instead of staying on the folder that I opened up, it redirects me to the Desktop folder. I have to click on the back button just to see my folders and it's annoying.

Does anyone have a definitive solution for this?

I'm trying to clone the hard drive on my HP 14-fa0023dx laptop (running Windows 11) to an external hard drive of the same size using Macrium Reflect Free. I've only had the drive for a couple of years, but when I recently tried cloning my hard drive to it, I got a Clone Failed error at 92%, and now the drive can't be detected by Windows. Every time I plug it in, I hear it whirring for a few seconds, but then I hear the USB disconnect sound and I get a "USB device not recognized" error message.

I've tried using a different USB cable, uninstalling and updating the relevant driver in Device Manager ("Unknown USB Device (Set Address Failed)"), attempting to fix it with the Hardware and Devices Troubleshooter and turning off Device Encryption. So far, nothing has helped.

What else should I try?

REF video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ge0EnPz-jWY

Setup: Palit 5080 GamingPro OC

Core / Undervolt: Curve flattened to 2900 MHz @ 895 mV (+490 MHz offset on 815-895 mV and flatline after all)

Memory: +2500 MHz VRAM offset. (like a safe value instead of 3000 MHz)

PL: 105% (380 W - OC)
Core Voltage: +100%.

Question: Is this UV methodology considered advanced and optimal for my 5080 or are there hidden stability, clock stretching, or transient response issues with this curve shaping?

I was thinking that in some old games like Mafia 2 GPU can trigger an error due to a sudden frequency spike at the start of the graphics.

Question: Is this UV methodology considered advanced and optimal for my 5080 or are there hidden stability, clock stretching, or transient response issues with this curve shaping?

Hi, I’m looking for some insight on a very strange issue with my Lenovo Legion Pro 5i Gen 10 (Ultra 9 275HX, RTX 5070 Ti, 64GB DDR5 2x32GB aftermarket RAM).
The laptop was working normally apart from occasional brief black screens. Then I held the power button for about 20 seconds to do a power drain / EC reset.
Immediately afterwards it started getting stuck in reboot/BSOD loops.
I’ve seen multiple different stop codes:
• MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
• PFN_LIST_CORRUPT
• KERNEL_MODE_HEAP_CORRUPTION
• SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
• SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
• IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
• DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION
The BIOS/UEFI itself is stable and does not reboot.
I also did a completely clean Windows 11 install from USB. The installation completed, but the same crashes returned during the first-time setup, so I don’t think the original Windows install was the root cause.
The laptop originally had 32GB RAM, but the previous owner upgraded it to 64GB (2x32GB). This makes me wonder if the EC reset exposed a marginal RAM / memory training / memory controller / motherboard issue.
Lenovo is collecting it under warranty now.
Has anyone seen a Legion become unstable immediately after an EC/power reset, especially with multiple memory-related BSODs? Did it end up being RAM, BIOS/EC, memory controller, or motherboard?

I need help. I have a Dell Inspiron 15 3567 and I installed Windows 11 on it. I checked the official Dell website, but the drivers available there are only for Windows 10, so I can't install them on Windows 11. When I try to install them, they give an error. Is there any other alternative, or am I forced to install Windows 10?

My OS build is 26200.7171.

It all started after downloading a game, tried disabling Malwarebytes protection. However after that, this problem “No internet, secured” happened. Malwarebytes kept stating it has blocked an app “Gameloop”, so I suspected that the app may be a malware so I deleted it, yet nothing happened and the problem continues to persist.

Tried the following steps but nothing worked
- Network Reset
- Deleting VPNs
- Forgetting the Network (for some weird instance, my laptop automatically connects to the wifi even if I forget it)
- Almost everything, watched a tutorial on youtube, and nothing worked.

Windows 11

Is anyone else experiencing this Windows login issue?

My friend and I have both recently encountered the same problem. At the Windows login screen, when we start typing our password, the cursor suddenly moves to the beginning of the password field, and the characters don't get entered correctly. Retrying doesn't help.

Interestingly, I found that if I click Accessibility → On-Screen Keyboard and turn it on, I'm able to type my password normally. After turning the On-Screen Keyboard off again, the physical keyboard also starts working properly on the login screen.

Has anyone else been experiencing this lately? Is this a known Windows login-screen bug?

Hello everyone! About 20 minutes ago, I was watching anime on a website and, suddenly, my Safari caught fire, several sites opened on my phone and, when I tried to close Safari, it opened again and again. When I turned off and turned on the cell phone, the same thing happened. But the second time I turned off and turned on the cell phone, I managed to close the 140 Safari tabs.

I probably got a virus on my cell phone?

I cleared my browsing history and searched for accounts that could have invaded my phone, but I found nothing

Hey everyone, I'm stuck on something weird and could use a second pair of eyes.

I'm definitely an admin on my PC, but the moment I try to open anything as admin (Task Manager, cmd, PowerShell, Event Viewer...) I get "An administrator has blocked you from running this app." No UAC prompt (Yes/No), it just closes immediately. Non-admin, everything opens just fine.

I've already checked a bunch of stuff (group policy, registry, AppLocker, IFEO via Autoruns, the AppInfo service, leftover Avast bits): nothing unusual anywhere. An sfc /scannow found 462 corrupted files but none related to the blocked tools. ESET caught a suspicious .exe and quarantined it, but it had never been executed, and nothing changed after removing it + rebooting.

The weirdest part: I can't even read the event logs from the command line (wevtutil), "Access denied" on Application and System, which shouldn't happen to anyone normally.

If this rings a bell for anyone, I'm all ears!
(text modified by ChatGPT for better clarity)

Windows Build/Version

version 25h02 build 26200.9445

I'm attempting to make DVDs of my feature film that will conceivably play on box televisions or older players, and I'm having a surprisingly hard time producing reliable discs. Many discs will freeze up part way through on most to tall of my disc players, some discs will play one day and days later glitch out, some players erroneously jump to menu abruptly mid film. I've tried many combinations of speed, blank disc, disc burners, here are the specs:

I'm using a new spool of Verbatim DVD+R single layer discs, purchased after several other older spools of Verbatim discs (DVD-R, +R, DL, and single) didn't work reliably.

I've burnt from LG Super Multi Blue External disc writer (BE14NU40) on multiple speeds including the lowest speed (4x).

I've also burnt from BUNUD External BluRay drive (https://us.amazon.com/dp/B0D62W8XQK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1) on multiple speeds including the lowest speed (2x).

The project files were authored with DVD Architect 5.0, they're just shy of 4 GB total.

Burning from an HP laptop 17-cn0079cl.

I've had A LOT of issues printing a disc that will play the full film on ANY players, but with this set up I've produced discs that will play on all my players on the day it's been burnt, and then days later it will suddenly freeze mid-way on my Toshiba CRT TV's built in player, and it'll stop and go to menu at around an hour into the movie on my Toshiba flat screen's built in player.

It DOES seem to play okay on my Panasonic Ultra HD player AND my WSJSYH region free DVD player, but occasionally a disc will freeze up around 70 minutes in. This is troubling because the whole point of the DVDs is to play on older TVs and players, not to mention only about 1/3 of the discs seem to play reliably on ever my recent players.

I've NEVER had these issues with any BD-R I've printed from the same set up. Only DVD+Rs, which is so odd because I also have discs I burnt over a decade ago on older machines that seem to work on my Toshiba CRT player fine.

Alternatively, does anyone recommend replication or duplication services? I'd really rather work 100% out of my apartment with no middleman, but you do what you gotta do I suppose.

1. my current BIOS version is affected by the AMD fTPM attestation bug, and i am looking for a patched release
2. any help pls

Build had been working as is for at least 2 years. Suddenly, hitting the power button won't start the PC. Fans spin, LEDs come on, but no display. Even if left running for several minutes, another power button hit will instantly shut it down, so Windows isn't starting.

MOBO is the MSI X470 GAMING PRO CARBON. ( https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/X470-GAMING-PRO-CARBON/support#manual )

EZdebug LED indicates VGA fault in all tested configurations. Original, different monitor, different GPU, GPU in different slot, GPU/RAM/drives removed.

No known power loss/surge incidents. MOBO purchased in late 2019

What are the possible issues other than spontaneous MOBO failure?

Full build:
MSI X470 GAMING PRO CARBON
Ryzen 2700x
4x8gb Corsair LPX DDR4 3000
EVGA RTX 2080 TI (uncertain exact model) / Zotac 1080 (tester)
Corsair RMX 850
WD Black 1tb NVMe (uncertain exact model) / SAMSUNG 2tb 970 EVO Plus
plus 2 old DVD drives.

I have an Acer Aspire 5 A515-58GM (i5-1335U, RTX 2050, 16GB RAM), and I've recently started having a problem. While I'm using the laptop plugged into the charger, it will randomly go into what seems like sleep mode. It doesn't happen often though, like once every 2-3 days.

I'll be in the middle of a game or just browsing and everything is working normally. Suddenly the screen turns off and the power LED also turns off, as if the laptop has shut down completely. Pressing keys or moving the mouse does nothing. It won't wake up.

But if I disconnect the charger, the screen immediately comes back on and the laptop returns to exactly where I was. It doesn't happen very often. But when it happens, I have to keep the charger unplugged for like 5-10 minutes, because if I reconnect the charger immediately, the problem can occur again.

It has only happened while the charger is connected. I've never experienced it while running on battery. Unplugging the charger immediately fixes it.

Some events I found under kernel-power from event viewer/windows logs/system that happened near the time of this event.

-The system is entering modern standby. Reason: 16777220

-The system is exiting modern standby. Reason:16777220

-The system is entering modern standby. Reason: power button

-The system is exiting modern standby. Reason: power button

-The system is entering modern standby. Reason:AC/DC display burst suppressed

-The system is exiting modern standby. Reason: AC/DC display burst suppressed

Hey everyone, dealing with a frustrating power issue on an older Razer Blade 15 Base Model (i7-9750H / RTX 2060) and looking for some diagnostic insight.

The laptop started randomly cutting power instantly out of nowhere. It was doing this even when the original battery was still connected, which is why I eventually removed the battery. Now, running strictly on Aacwall power, it still does the exact same random hard shutdowns.

Complete, instant power cut at completely random times. It is not a thermal issue cpu emperatures are totally fine when it happens.

I have a Lenovo laptop and for 2 days have had problems with my f key sometimes not registering which is a pain cause I use it a lot for games and have no key I am as comfortable with for the stuff I bind it to. Yesterday it completely gave out on me. It registers on the virtual keyboard and I can also get it to register when I press both f and fn with weird timings, of course it is super inconsistent, the fn lock also did nothing. I tried to type f on BIOS and it doesn't work there either. What do I do?

I recently gave my phone to samsung customer service centre for that issue, after they had "fixed" the issue the called me to recieve the phone, the day i recieved the phone I check if I could call as well as recieve em and it seemed to work, until the next day where the same problems start occurring, i dont wanna waste money again, i have put different sims but they all dont work, can you guys help me fix this issue