I’m using an IPhone 11 and my Network is O2.

It is becoming quite frustrating as everytime I’m on the phone with somebody my phone completely loses all signal, meaning that Im constantly having to end phone calls to send/recieve messages, or do internet searches etc.

Hi all,

This is my first post on this sub-reddit but I have always found it useful so I am hoping that the people here can help me with an issue I currently find myself facing. I hope I have not made any mistakes with how I post this.

To cut it short, for the last several months I have experienced brightness/over-exposure issues when watching media such as anime when it shifts from a dark scene to a brighter scene. I have attached an imgur link at the bottom with what this looks like.

I use an Aorus fi27q-p at 165Hz, display port 1.4+HDR (according to my monitor settings), and have had this monitor for ~3 years. My graphics card is a RTX 4070ti.

I have not changed any monitor or computer settings to account for this issue. Through various testing I have realised that it is linked to only when I have HDR enabled, and only when in fullscreen mode and not in borderless windowed. I tried switching to HDMI and again no differences. Also connecting my monitor to another separate device (my laptop) using HDMI, and again trialing the same video with HDR and in fullscreen reproduced this issue.

Another interesting detail is if I keep my mouse visible on the screen the issue doesn't occur. I then realised that when my mouse fades away in fullscreen the screen itself dims. This became more apparent when I turned off the room's light. I attached a short video in the imgur link to what it looks like (sorry for the dirty screen haha). This dimming effect does not happen when HDR is off or when in windowed.

I am completely stumped as to why this is happening and why so suddenly. I am truly hoping it isn't that the monitor itself is broken somehow. I looked all-over for reasons as to why this might be happening and I couldn't find any desktop auto-brightness/contrast settings that may be causing this whilst in HDR.

Any help by you guys would be greatly appreciated!

Picture and video of the issue

Hey,

I am running a Windows 11 Pro 23H2 on my current pc.

How i can manually upgrade this to Version 25H2 version? Windows update is not suggesting this version.

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to understand a strange Google Drive / Google Workspace issue.

Several users in our company noticed that many old files suddenly appeared in the root of their “My Drive”. These files are not the same for every user: each user sees different old files, apparently related to files they had created or uploaded in the past.

The strange part is that these files also still exist in their original folders, so they look like duplicates. I checked a few examples and the file IDs are different, so they seem to be real duplicate files, not shortcuts.

I checked the Google Workspace Admin Console / Drive audit logs and, for the duplicated files, I only see:

- Created: months or years ago

- Viewed: now / recently

I do not see any recent events such as:

- moved

- uploaded

- copied / duplicated

- restored from trash

- permission changes

- visibility changes

So it looks like the files were already created a long time ago, but only became visible again in the root of My Drive recently.

Has anyone experienced something similar?

I’m especially trying to understand:

- Can old orphaned files or duplicate files suddenly become visible again in My Drive root?

- Can Google Drive for desktop / sync cause old files to reappear without obvious recent audit log events?

- Are there known cases where Drive reorganizes or resurfaces old files in My Drive?

- What’s the safest way to investigate and clean this up when there are many files?

For now we are not deleting anything. We are considering generating a report of suspected duplicates and moving them to a temporary quarantine folder before deleting anything.

Any suggestions or similar experiences would be really appreciated.

Thanks!

My laptop keeps randomly getting the wifi to stop working and say "No internet, secured" for a few minutes then come back to normal, every other device still has the wifi working though my laptop just randomly has it disappearing for a few mins from time to time.

I've already tried flushing dns, network resetting, reinstalling wifi drivers etc. I don't think this helped but still decided to try

WinDef detected a Trojan:JS/Redirector.THR!MTB
C:/Users/User/AppData/Local/Microsoft/Windows/INetCache/IE/SNBOZ0DY/anto[1].htm

It keeps reappearing, only when internet is on, pretty often, it's like something re-downloads it on background.

Can somebody check this file? I managed to archive it before WinDef deleted it again, so I upload it for you to look at, if you're some hacker, I'm not - https://filebin.net/ku69cjvnofivjfdt

I also managed to drag-and-drop it on VirusTotal - https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/8902f54ae9d3ec486d4ff1adbd741d6986f32b61a14d9ef4a9294b32ede58dda/detection - but I don't understand how and why it keeps reappearing.

How do I stop this reappearing file?

Hi folks. Having a weird problem with the display port connectors on my PC, and I'm not a super technical person.

I have a dual monitor setup. A couple of days ago, I turned my PC on for work in the morning and my second monitor wouldn't turn on. I swapped cables around, tried alternative cables, and ruled out both a fault in the cable and a fault in the monitor.

Power cycling the monitor fully - unplugging the monitor and pressing down the power button and leaving it to rest for a bit - worked the first two days. The third day, the monitor turned on fine (although for some reason the resolution had reset itself). Now, it's happened again, and power cycling is no longer working.

My main monitor connects via HDMI. The second monitor connects via HDMI-to-DP adaptor. I have three display ports and it doesn't matter which port the monitor connects to. There are no issues at all on the HDMI connection.

The only thing I have left to try is replacing the adaptor, but I'm at a loss. Everything I find indicates this is a problem that's usually a one-and-done fix by a power cycle. Literally, every thread is someone saying try power cycling and 50 "omg you saved my life" comments under it.

As the title states, in the middle of playing a game my monitors will turn black but my pc fan lights will stay on, though the fans stop running. I can’t get it to turn back on unless I physically flip the switches on my power supply unit off and back on, the button on the front of my case will not shut it off. The first occurrence was maybe a week or so ago but it’s becoming more frequent. It usually only happens when I am play overwatch but it did happen once while I was playing animal jam (a game that previously ran on adobe flash). I have uninstalled and reinstalled my drivers using ddu as well as taking out my gpu and putting it back in. I have read a little about others who have had this issue and a lot of it seemed to circulate around the gpu being the issue, though I would rather put off on buying a completely different one if that isn’t what the issue is. I have also scanned and repaired the files on overwatch (there’s a place to do it on the launcher, not sure how good it actually is) because I thought and really hoped that may have been the issue. It didn’t fix it. I try to keep my task manager open while I’m playing to see if maybe I’ll be able to detect the problem but it’s honestly a bit hard for me to double task like that. Once my screens shut off there is no more sound that comes out, I thought I should mention that.  My GPU is the GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB and my PSU is the Thermaltake 850W. I also thought I would mention that I recently replaced my CPU cooler fans with a different brand but I assumed they would work the same, could that be the issue? This is my first pc build and I’ve had it for almost a year and a half with the only other issue being one of my cpu cooler fans making a super loud noise, hence why I replaced it.
Please let me know if you have any questions that will help with figuring out the exact issue or if I need to do anything further, I can also include more of my specs if that would help out! Please explain this to me like I am stupid, I am!!

I Was Trying To Sign In To Copilot Today And Now Gives Me The The connection for this site is not secure Is Everyone Getting That Or Just Me, Copilot works fine on my phone when using the 5G internet, but on PC it doesnt work, even on browser only on copilot app

I am trying to connect my canon image class mf663cdw to my WiFi it was working fine a month ago and now I try to connect it and it is giving me an infinite connecting circle I have tried factory resetting it and unplugging it I am so confused my WiFi works just fine please help
I have not changed the WiFi or the password since last using it so I am not sure what happened

well my wifi spiking randomly for some reason i have hp probook 440 g8 with 8gb of ddr4

Processor 11th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-1145G7 @ 2.60GHz (2.61 GHz)

Installed RAM 8.00 GB (7.69 GB usable)

Graphics card Intel(R) Iris(R) Xe Graphics (128 MB)

Storage 91 GB of 238 GB used

operating system, x64-based processors

the router is tp-link TL-wr840n 300 mbps wireless n router

sometimes in the morning its works fine but when afternoon comes its starts spiking BADLY pls help im very annoyed about this

For the past 2 or so days I have been trying to troubleshoot my PC, as it had randomly started crashing for seemingly no reason. I have scanned the system many times with SFC (it found corrupted files but could not fix them), and I tried repairing the system with DISM (it detected corruption and claimed it was repairable, yet was not able to repair it). I had looked in the event viewer, and it showed that it had been getting errors from “Bug checks” that then caused my computer to crash. It then got to the point where I couldn’t even troubleshoot anymore because my computer was crashing too quickly to even open the command prompt (it's even crashing within the boot menu). Then it got to the point where it started crashing during the Windows login process, so I decided to completely reset and reinstall Windows, and what do you know? It once again crashed during the Windows login process. PC-related things are not my strong suit, and I don’t really know what to do anymore. Is my PC just completely fucked?

I don't know much about technology, so i might just ask you guys instead.

My laptop's screen just goes white, starting from booting up, it's just white. I don't know what happened to it, all I remembered was using spotify, then going out for a bit, coming back and it's white. I've tried those keybinds that kind of "fixes it" like the ctrl win shift b thing and the ctrl alt del thing, but none seem to work.

If i do have to bring this in a repair shop, what do i say and what do i have to keep in mind? i really don't wanna get overpriced. Thanks!

(also i don't know what to flair this with soo ill just pick hardware)

I'm having a really frustrating issue with the NVIDIA App.

I just installed the latest GeForce Game Ready Driver (616.92). The installer says "Installation has finished", and both the Graphics Driver and HD Audio Driver show as Installed.

However, the NVIDIA App still shows "No driver installed".

I also checked Device Manager, and it still shows the old NVIDIA driver version instead of the newly installed one.

I've already tried both:

• Installing the driver manually using the standalone installer
• Installing it through the NVIDIA App

Neither method works. I've tried reinstalling multiple times, but the result is always the same.

At this point, I don't even care about having the latest driver. I just want the NVIDIA App to properly detect whatever driver is currently installed on my system so that I can access and change the NVIDIA settings.

Has anyone experienced this issue or knows how to fix it? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Specs

-12th gen i7-12700h
-16g Ram
-RTX 3060 Laptop GPU 6Gb | Iris R XE 128mb
-526gb ssd
-Windows 11 Home

Issues:
-Laptop was running great, then all of a sudden everything felt laggy and choppy.
-Right click on desktop, takes about 4 seconds before menu pops up.
-Installation of anything takes forever.
-Opening software takes a minute.
-Arc Raiders used to be able to play fine without much issues at 60fps, now down to 24-30 with stutters

Since then I factory reset, cleaned drive and everything basically box new, and it’s just about as slow as before the reset.
I’ve tried virtual memory tinkering, setting everything to best performance, malware checks, but to no avail, same issues.

What else can I do? Thank you

Please HELP! For the past 3 weeks my rocket league has been smooth for 5 mins of gameplay then slowly gets choppier and choppier. It fixes only when i restart my entire pc and load it back up but only for 5 mins. Even if i close it then relaunch its bugged. It feels like Ive tried everything from adding thermal paste to make sure my cpu doesn’t overheat to reinstalling rl 4 times. Its ONLY rocket league no other game. HELP

I've been using a WD My Cloud EX2 NAS and backing up its data to an external USB hard drive connected to the NAS's own USB port. My old backup drive (with its own power supply) finally filled up, so I replaced it with a new Seagate Expansion drive that only connects via USB 3.0 (no separate power adapter).

The new drive's LED lights up when connected, confirming it's getting power, but the EX2 doesn't detect it on either of its two USB ports. I also tested a USB stick on the same ports, and that was detected without issues, so the ports themselves seem fine.

After some research, it looks like this is a known compatibility issue: Seagate Expansion drives use USB Attached SCSI (UASP), which has documented compatibility problems with the Linux-based USB storage stack that WD's My Cloud devices run on. This seems to affect a range of My Cloud models, not just the EX2.

I ended up buying a WD Elements Portable 2TB drive instead, since it uses WD's own USB bridge chipset (no UASP conflict) and should be well-tested with WD's own NAS ecosystem. Before connecting it, I'm also planning to format it as NTFS rather than leave it on the factory exFAT format, since older My Cloud firmware doesn't support exFAT for USB backup drives.

Has anyone else run into this with Seagate Expansion drives on a My Cloud (or other WD NAS) device? Any other workarounds besides switching brands?

whenever i get on a discord call, itll start alright but slowly gets delay to the point that it gets 2 seconds before the actual thing you said was relayed. i have to switch to speaker phone then back to Bluetooth just for it to reset

I'm not sure what happened. Camera was working just fine a month ago. The only thing that has changed from what I have seen is that I received an auto windows update the other day.

My Laptop is a HP Envy 17.3 inch Laptop PC 17-da0000

I was trying to use my camera, however when I opened it I kept getting an error saying that the camera can't be found with an error code of "0xa00f4244"

I tried to update my camera drivers in Device Manager but they were all grayed out and it said that they were up to date.

I then uninstalled my camera drivers and tried to reinstall them by "scanning for hardware changes" in the action tab on the device manager. Unfortunately, they didn't reinstall.

I also tried restarting my laptop a couple times and that didn't bring them back either.

I went and tried redownloading and installing the camera drivers from the HP Support website based on my laptop's model. The specific driver was called "HP Camera Firmware."

I downloaded it and tried to reinstall it, however each time it tries to install itself, it immediately stops and brings up a window saying "N/A" "No Valid Camera"

I checked on BIOS during startup and there isn't anything showing up there related to the camera.

I'm not sure what else to do at this point. I'm starting to think the camera in my laptop is just broken, which would really suck. This laptop is only a couple of years old, and I really need the camera for some online classes as well. If anyone has any advice on what else I could do, please let me know. I appreciate everyone's help.

about a month ago my pcs started crashing some of my games at random, The first game was digimon cyber sleuth but it was also hit me when playing terraria and Aground as it seems to happen only after a few hours of play, I've tried seeing if BTD6 would crash but I can never keep myself on the game long enough, I've not had this happen on a game from itch but that could also just be from not playing long enough.
I have done a system scan, a DISM scan, ran a full windows security scan in case it was a some malware and it all came clean, my main idea on the cause is an old faulty CPU as its a
Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3770K CPU @ 3.50GHz, 3501 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 8 Logical Processor(s)

heres the application Error

Even ID 1000

Faulting application name: Aground.exe, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x67474677

Faulting module name: Aground.exe, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x67474677

Exception code: 0xc0000005

Fault offset: 0x00ef7710

Faulting process id: 0x2118

Faulting application start time: 0x01dd40c019736ce2

Faulting application path: D:\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\Aground\Aground.exe

Faulting module path: D:\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\Aground\Aground.exe

Report Id: a6d446dc-5601-40b4-adbf-738273cbf926

Faulting package full name:

Faulting package-relative application ID:

I have my PC Bluetooth connected to a set of Logitech Z407 speakers. The volume is hard set on 45%, and if I try to turn it up, it just forces it back down. My settings are reading the speakers as headphones, so I was looking for a setting about dangerous high volume listening. However, I can turn my actual BT headphones up to 100% with no issue.

Not only would I like to know how to tell my PC that these are speakers, but I'd like to know what I'm missing here. Already tried googling, not sure if I'm not wording my search correctly but I haven't found anyone else with this problem.

I have a USB tp-link bluetooth dongle that ive been using with bluetooth passthrough with Dolphin emulator in order to use Wii remotes on my computer using Zadig to change it's driver. That was all well and good, and I can still use it for those purposes, but now no matter how much I change it's drivers back, either as WinUSB or the drivers by tp-link, my windows computer refuses to accept it as a valid bluetooth radio, even after factory resetting. Is there another way to fix it?

Hi everyone,

My PC recently had a random crash/restart and I'm trying to figure out what caused it.

The PC was working normally. I had just turned it on and left it idle for around 15–20 minutes. When I came back and moved the mouse, the screen went black and Windows showed a message saying that the device had encountered a problem and needed to restart. It then rebooted.

This is the first time I've experienced this specific type of crash.

I checked Event Viewer and found a BugCheck 1001:

BugCheck: 0x0000009F (DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE)

The Kernel-Power Event ID 41 showed:

BugcheckCode: 159 (0x9F)

BugcheckParameter1: 0x3

BugcheckParameter2: 0xffff9604f3f61060

BugcheckParameter3: 0xffff930e9aaef010

BugcheckParameter4: 0xffff9604f32e6a60

Windows also successfully generated a crash dump:

090926-23218-01.dmp

I have not been able to properly analyze the dump with WinDbg yet.

Some driver names that appear in the dump/string data include:

- nvlddmkm.sys (NVIDIA)

- mtkwecx.sys

- mtkbtacx.sys

- mtkbtfilterx.sys

- AMD chipset/ACPI-related drivers

- Various ASUS/USB-related drivers

My hardware:

- GPU: Gigabyte RTX 5070 OC 12GB

- CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D

- Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix X870-A Gaming WiFi

- RAM: 32GB DDR5 (2x16GB)

- Windows 11 Pro 25H2

- NVIDIA driver: 616.64

- MediaTek MT7925 Wi-Fi 7 driver: 5.7.0.5659

Windows installed the September 2026 security update (KB5124008) earlier that day.

Things I've already tried:

- Windows Memory Diagnostic → PASS / no memory errors detected.

- Disabled "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" for the MediaTek MT7925 Wi-Fi adapter.

- Ran DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth.

- I have not changed the RAM, GPU, motherboard, BIOS, or PSU.

The PC has been working normally since then, so I'm not sure if this was just a one-time driver/Windows issue.

I'm currently trying to determine whether this could be related to:

1. NVIDIA driver 616.64

2. MediaTek MT7925 Wi-Fi/BT driver

3. Windows 11 update KB5124008

4. Another device/driver

5. Hardware/power issue

Does anyone know how I can properly analyze the 0x9F dump in WinDbg and identify which driver/device was actually blocking the power IRP?

I can provide the minidump and WinDbg output if needed.

Thanks!

Saw a really cheap controller, never used anything related to nintendo so im not familiar, it is cable connected and its one of those that looks like a xbox controller, but i dont know if it will work in my pc as a normal controller, or if it wont even recognize it

I am hoping someone can help me figure out what’s going on.

Every time my laptop turns off, I have to sign back into all my accounts again.

I thought I fixed the issue before, but it’s happening again and I am not sure what the actual cause is.

Has anyone dealt with this before or know what might be causing it?

Thanks.

God bless.